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Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step
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75smith
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hint for the valve covers(Glenn's works well too, all a point of preference) but a little grease smeared on the cover's edge and the gasket will stick long enough to place the cover without fear of movement, haven't had too many leaks(had 1 but pretty sure it was through a warped cover-it stopped after replacing cover)
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My 1975 Beetle Build Updated 8-21-12

My engine build
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reassembly

I took the heads off and re-stretched all the pushrod tubes.

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Then I put it all back together, with all the seams up. I found it was easier to verify that by looking at the inside of the tubes through the heads. I missed the sideways tube before because I looked up from the bottom, and then from the front, but not from the back of the engine.

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I torqued the heads as before, by 'snugging' the hardware on both heads to 7 Nm (in this case, estimated by setting my clicker torque wrench below the minimum on its scale) according to the first pattern in the Wilson book. The heads were then alternately torqued to 10 Nm, and then 24.5 Nm. I checked them again after two hours.

In the interim I resealed the valve covers, first cleaning the silicone residue off with U-pol, and setting the gaskets with Loctite 518 Anaerobic gasket maker. It's a non-hardening sealant that I judged sticky enough (Curil isn't) to keep the gaskets on.

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The pushrods and rocker arms were installed and tightened to 24.5 Nm. I readjusted the valves to 0.15 mm as before.

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I put the exhaust system and intake manifold back on as previously described, with some of the tin. I now had the correct rear tin, so I put it on with the heat riser insulation pieces. It took some fiddling, and some aligning of holes with an awl.

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Next the fan shroud went back on, and the thermostat was hooked back up.

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The tin for the oil cooler exhaust went on with bolts this time. I also used a bolt where the fan shroud fastens to the hoover bit.

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I wired the spark plugs back up as previously described. I used a plastic tool to poke the rubber flaps behind the intake manifold flange so they would seal completely.

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At this time I also cut and fitted the fresh air tubes, with their grommets and clamps.

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I dry-fit the carburettor and marked the alternator casing where it needed to be ground to clear the accelerator pump linkage. There is an alternator version of this carburettor with the linkage flipped up out of the way, but it's cheaper and easier just to relieve the casing.

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I don't seem to have an 'after' picture of the area. I had to grind away far more than is marked with pen in the photo.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test running

I used a cheap empty transmission case to mount a starter for testing the engine. It was represented by the seller as a 12 volt transmission, but turned out to be an unmodified 6 volt unit, so I had to grind out the inside of the bell housing and fit a new starter bushing.

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I repeatedly mounted it to the engine to let the flywheel mark its position to show me where to grind. To protect the clutch and pilot bearing from metal grit I removed the clutch and stuffed the gland nut with a piece of shop towel.

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Here is the assembled test stand.

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(The engine is sitting on its case 'ears' on a wooden trolley.)

The engine is wired as follows:

Heavy gauge wire from alternator terminal B+ to starter terminal 30 to battery +.
Medium wire from starter switch 50 to starter 50.
Medium wire from starter switch 30 to battery +.
Medium wire from starter switch 15 to coil 15 (+).
Light wire from coil 15 to carburettor cutoff solenoid to electric choke.
Condenser to coil 1 (-).
The battery was grounded to a stud on the transmission case.

I also pulled a bulb holder and bulb out of an instrument cluster and wired it between coil 15 and the small spade terminal on the alternator for an alternator light. The Samba says the alternator won't charge without it.

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As in the photo above, I filled the oil sump with Chevron Supreme 5W-30, with half a bottle of Edelbrock Zinc Additive. According to the instructions, the whole 12 fl. oz. bottle will treat 6 quarts. The oil capacity is 2.5 l.

I gave the carburettor a preliminary adjustment according to the instructions given by Volkzbitz http://volkzbitz.com/Carburetor_Adjustments.html(the adjusting screws were set randomly back when I cleaned and resealed it). I turned the fast idle screw to where it just touched the (open) choke cam, then in another 1/4 turn.

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I then turned the volume control screw all the way in, and then back out three turns.

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It's hard to tell when it has really bottomed out, because the rubber o-ring causes considerable resistance to turning. I was afraid of stripping the threads or damaging the seat.

Here is a picture of the assembled engine from before, showing the routing of various lines, etc.

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At this point, I disconnected the condenser wire from the coil to prevent the engine firing, and turned it over with the starter for about a minute to build oil pressure, as the Wilson book recommends.

I then hooked the wire back up and tried to start the engine. I found there was no fuel going to the carburettor, first because the fuel pump inlet and outlet were the reverse of what I expected them to be based on the old Pierburg pumps, and second because the fuel pump rod was very tight in the plastic pedestal. The rod was an aftermarket 'alternator' length rod, and not very nicely finished. I pulled it out, chucked it in a drill, and sanded it down with 80 grit sandpaper, followed by 320 and 1000. I rinsed it thoroughly with Simple Green and water, and checked it for fit in the pedestal. I had to repeat the process three or four times before it moved freely enough.

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When I put everything back together, it started right up. Once the carburettor bowl was full, it would start as soon as it was turned over.

Once it warmed up(i.e., as soon as the choke was open), however, it would die. After some reading on the Samba, I removed the pilot jet and blew it out with compressed air. It made no difference.

I could get it to keep running if I held the throttle open to keep it around 2000 RPM. The Wilson book instructs to run the engine at this speed for twenty minutes as part of the break-in procedure, so I used the fast idle screw to hold the throttle there while I did other checks.

I used a timing light to monitor engine speed.

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I also used a propane torch to check for vacuum leaks around the carburettor, especially the throttle shaft. I couldn't cause any noticeable speed increase by shooting propane anywhere around the carburettor (except down the throat, which I did as a control).

I did not check around the intake manifold castings, which is on my list to do.

I also noticed that the speed of the engine wasn't quite steady, and that it would miss periodically.

For everyone's information, the distributor is still set to 0 degrees TDC and has not yet been adjusted, though the points were gapped as noted earlier.

I used a vacuum gauge on the small vacuum port on the intake manifold, and measured 420 mm Hg (17 in. Hg) at 2200 RPM.

I may just send the carburettor to one of the rebuilders here on the Samba, to make sure it's right and eliminate a variable. I'm going to have to tear the engine down again anyway, because of oil leaks around the oil pump studs and cover, and probably around the cam plug or flywheel oil seal.
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Yehan73
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is your idle cutoff working? If not that will cause your symptoms. I don't see a wire connected to it from your photos.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the 3-4 side intake end casting, the studs appear to be different lengths. Unlike the 1-2 side which are even. Could the end casting on the 3-4 side be crooked and not flush with the head intake ports?
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Link to bad mobile phone video of the running engine: http://vimeo.com/52496585

@Yehan73 The idle cutoff was hooked up, but I will look in its hole and test it out of the carb.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teardown observations

This afternoon I noticed that the carburettor bowl had started to leak at the main jet plug. It makes me more inclined to send the carburettor away to be sorted properly.

Here is the oil drained from the engine, with no doubt a great deal of assembly lube in it.

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I found that the intake manifold was fairly damp with fuel inside, to the extent that there were small puddles inside the intake ports. Both of the intake manifold gaskets were quite wet with fuel over their surface; on one side there was even fuel on the head below the intake ports - indicating that gasket was leaking? Maybe that's where the vacuum leak was as well.

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I plugged one end of the heat riser with a finger and blew into the other, and it held pressure, so it isn't leaking into the intake manifold.

There was a very rapid oil leak from the bottom of the left valve cover. On removing it I found that the bottom of the gasket was loose and there was no sealant to be found between it and the cover. I know I put some there, so I think the oil washed it away. That valve cover may be warped.

One of the two oil leaks on the case proper was at the front of the engine. I removed the pulley to find out if it was the oil pump only, or if there was leakage around the pulley. I found to my chagrin that the red Loctite on the pulley bolt threads had found its way between the crankshaft snout and the pulley, making it a bear to remove. I may have warped it beyond repair getting it off. Evil or Very Mad

Immediately under the pulley the case was dry, as was the pulley itself, so I conclude that the oil pump cover was the sole source of leakage.
There were leaks through the stud threads, and apparently some between the pump or cover and case.

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After removing the gland nut (no easy matter on a new, Loctited gland nut!) I was able to verify that the slow leak at the front of the engine was from the bottom of the cam plug or the seam below it. I had a few seconds to see that before the oil dammed in by the flywheel seal started to pour down and obscure everything, as it is in this picture.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teardown observations, continued

Inside the combustion chambers there was a lot of oily fuel residue, probably to be expected from so much running with the choke closed.

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I numbered the cylinders and removed and bagged them, with the pistons still inside.

The leak from around the oil pump appears to be from a small channel formed at the top case seam by chamfering of the edge. Because it doesn't harden, Curil doesn't seem to do a good job sealing such a large gap. I'm not really sure what to do about it - I may have a similar situation around the cam plug. I may even have to use a tiny amount of a different sealer.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teardown observations, continued

After splitting the case this afternoon, I noticed severe scoring near the front of the second cam bearing. It was present on both halves of the bearing, and deep enough to catch my fingernail.

I had noticed similar scoring at the first disassembly and couldn't determine the cause. I assumed that grit had got between the bearing and journal during assembly. I changed the bearings when I put the engine back together.

I was disappointed to see the same damage again this time. The circumstances did rule out sporadic grit or a bad bearing, so I examined the camshaft more carefully. I had to turn it twice before I found a tiny, tiny gouge in the journal - it probably got covered up by assembly lube the last time.

Now I need to do some research to see if I can rescue this camshaft or not...

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reassembly

Per the advice on this forum, I used a 2400-grit water stone (used for sharpening carving tools) to take the burr off the camshaft journal.

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Then it was set aside while I cleaned off the old Curil from the case parting line. Denatured alcohol does an excellent job encouraging it to wipe off cleanly - this was much easier than the shellac-based sealer I used before.

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After cleaning, I installed new cam bearings and put the camshaft back in after oiling its bearing surfaces. I made sure the timing dots were aligned.

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I reapplied Curil K2 to the case parting line on one case half, and also to the cam plug hole on the other half. I was very generous around the cam plug this time, trying to fill the 'trough' as well as I could, and get some on the inboard sealing surface of the plug as well as the outboard sealing surface.

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I cleaned the sealer off of the case hardware with alcohol and a brush. I tried steeping the bolts in alcohol, but the Curil doesn't dissolve readily enough. It needs to be brushed off.

I put the case halves back together and put the hardware back on with new Curil. I tightened the bolts as before: first the cam plug nuts to 20 Nm, then the main bearing stud nuts to 20 Nm. I tightened the main bearing stud nuts to a further 27 Nm, and then a final 35 Nm. The perimeter hardware was tightened to 20 Nm.

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I cleaned the mating surfaces of the oil strainer and cover with alcohol, as well as the hardware, and reinstalled it with new gaskets and Curil. The acorn nuts were tightened as before to below the scale on my 10 - 60 Nm wrench, my approximation of 7 Nm.

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I washed the flywheel again because there were metal flakes and Loctite dust in the sealing area. I also installed a new sealing ring because I now have so many gasket sets it doesn't matter.

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With alcohol I wiped clean the flywheel seal seat on the case, and put the flywheel shims back on.

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At this point I tried to install the flywheel seal, but damaged it in the process and had to stop and get a new one. I also had new self-sealing nuts for the oil pump cover on the way.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reassembly, continued

I cleaned the old Loctite off of the gland nut threads and out of the crankshaft threads with a small wire brush in a die grinder. When doing the crankshaft threads I held the shop vacuum nozzle nearby to keep the powder out of the flywheel seal area.

I cleaned the seal area with alcohol, and put a thin coat of Curil K2 there. I tapped the seal in, successfully this time.

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I put on the flywheel and threaded in the gland nut with more red Loctite. I torqued it using my weight of 150 pounds two feet out on the breaker bar, as before.

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Turning the engine around, I prepared to install the oil pump. I needed to fill the small chamfer in the case mentioned earlier, or risk another oil leak from the top of the oil pump. I will incur the wrath of the anti-silicone party, but I chose to use RTV because of its adhesive and gap-filling qualities. I believe it to be perfectly safe in this case because of the positive pressure in the oil pump chamber, and because of where the gap is that I'm filling. See the pictures below.

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The chamfer:

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Filled:

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There is no RTV in the oil pump bore itself.

I sealed the pump with a generous helping of Curil T this time, which is thicker than K2. I had cleaned it and put more assembly lube on the gears for priming.

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I used the new self-sealing nuts on the cover, with a great deal of Curil T.

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I replaced the paper sealing rings on the cylinders and reapplied Curil T to new sealing rings. On two of the four cylinders I also removed and cleaned the shims because oil had got between them and the cylinder surface.

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I reinstalled the cylinders as I numbered them on removal, verifying the piston orientation.

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I clipped on the air deflectors under the cylinders.

I degreased the pushrod tube seals and the sealing surfaces on the heads and on the block. I stretched the tubes back out to beyond 191 mm.

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I mated the heads to the engine and checked pushrod tube seam orientation. It didn't photograph very well this time - some of the reflections in these pictures are misleading. I had to go out to the garage as I was writing this and check cylinder #1. They are all as they should be.

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I compressed the pushrods by torquing the heads to 7 Nm according to the first pattern given before. I then alternately tightened them to 10 Nm and then 24.5 Nm according to the second pattern.

I installed the pushrods, and then the rocker arms (24.5 Nm). I adjusted the valves to 0.15 mm as previously described.

I put a new gasket on an extra valve cover to replace the one that leaked so badly before. I used a very generous helping of Loctite 518 this time.

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I installed the pulley tin, followed by the pulley. This time I applied Loctite sparingly, to the inside of the crankshaft threads. I torqued the bolt to 45 Nm.

I reinstalled the exhaust system and tinware.

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At this point, I took the carburettor out of its bag to see if I could find out why it didn't idle. I first dealt with the leaking main jet plug by replacing the red fibre gasket with a rubber o-ring left over from the carburettor kit.

(The black one.)

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Next I took out the idle cutoff solenoid to test it. I had assumed it was working, and I think I tested it when I bought the carburettor, but when I put 12 volts across the case and centre terminal, nothing happened. There were sparks when I connected the wires, but no movement of the valve. I have a new one on order...

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biga1969
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a few more steps til the fire up. Can't wait to see the results, it is looking great so far. Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much for your photos and info. I tore my 73 SB down about 2 years ago and have just started putting it back together. Your descriptions and photos have refreshed my memory and have been of great value to me, and I bet, others. Thank you.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new (Brazilian, unfortunately) cutoff solenoid came in the mail, so I installed it in the carburettor after testing it in the same way I had the old one. I put it back on the engine and hooked everything back up. I filled the engine with Chevron Supreme 5W-30 (SM), with a little bit of leftover Supreme 10W-30 (SN). I figured the mixture of weights didn't matter in this case, with the post break-in oil change coming at 300 miles. I also used the other half of the bottle of zinc additive.

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I started the engine and let it warm up, only to have it die yet again once the choke was open. The carburettor bowl plug was also still leaking...

I took the opportunity to run a compression check, just to see how things were. I pulled out the #1 spark plug, pulled out the distributor centre wire, and turned the engine over until the reading peaked.

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I read a little under 800 kPa (115 PSI). The spec given in the blue Bentley manual (the only one I have) for a compression ratio of 7.5 is 8.0 kg/cm2, which is 785 kPa. I've just squeaked by.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I discovered this thread, http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56411, regarding 34PICT-3 idle adjustment, and decided to try following its advice.

First, however, I decided to reinstall the clutch, just in case running with a lighter than normal flywheel was having an effect. I used the alignment tool and tightened the bolts in an alternating pattern to 24.5 Nm.

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I reset all the carburettor settings to their starting positions (three turns out on the volume screw, two-and-a-half turns out on the bypass screw) and set the distributor back to initial timing at 0 TDC. I started the engine and let it warm up.

As usual, it died as soon as the choke was open all the way. As the Samba thread suggested, I loosened the pilot jet about 1/4 turn. When I started the engine again, it stayed started. It was idling around 900 RPM, so I took the opportunity to set the distributor timing using the timing light. I turned the housing until the 5 degrees ATDC mark on the pulley was aligned with the case seam. Upon doing so the idle smoothed out considerably.

I will document tuning procedures when I do it again after fixing the pilot jet in its new position. The Samba thread recommends blue Loctite on the outer threads.

With the carburettor back off the car, here is the pilot jet's position when tight in its bore:

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And its position when loosened enough to allow idling:

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I carefully turned it out two or three turns to expose the threads, applied blue Loctite, and turned it back in the same amount.

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I still need to get a new washer for the bowl plug, in order to stop that pesky leak. I may even use Curil on it, unless the Samba knows a reason not to.

I'm also pleased to announce that there are no oil leaks from the case halves that I can find. There is some dampness on the case on the right side under the pushrod tubes, but I can't tell if its a leak, residual oil that got warm enough to flow out of some crevice, or fuel from the carburettor's leak. I'll spray it with degreaser and see if it comes back later.

For reference, this carburettor has a 130 main jet, 75 air correction jet, and 55 idle jet, which is the stock configuration.
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, you've done a lot of work there, good luck with it!

Couple comments--the carb bowl plug should use a metal washer, not fiber. Don't know if that's the problem, but mine have never leaked using the metal.

On the idle jet, try turning it in as far as possible until it doesn't die. If it's out 1/4 turn because that's where it stays running, fine. But you might find your gas mileage is poor at that setting.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
On the idle jet, try turning it in as far as possible until it doesn't die. If it's out 1/4 turn because that's where it stays running, fine. But you might find your gas mileage is poor at that setting.


That's where it is. I do want to use an exhaust gas analyser on it to see just how rich it runs, if at all. Thanks for the information about the sealing ring.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually had a steel bowl washer in my leftover carburettor kit, so I put it on with Curil K2 on both sides for good measure.

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I then put it back on the engine and hooked everything back up - including, for the first time, the preheat tube. It goes on the engine just like the fresh air tubes do, with hose clamps and a rubber grommet at the bottom to seal the rear tin. I need it installed to tune everything properly in the cool weather.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bravo! Very Happy
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The nuts for the oil pump cover should be self sealing nuts. http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16309&cat=&page=1and looking back it didn't seem that you used a new o ring on the distributor.

They also make a carb spacer to fix the linkage hitting the alt. http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D127%2D021
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