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Zundfolge1432 
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Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12468
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loctiteis
Samba Member
Joined: November 15, 2016
Posts: 2
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 Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2022 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="maboyce"]Exhaust system and tinware
Last year at this point I noticed a broken-off tin screw on one of the cylinder heads. I had to use the mig-welded nut trick to remove it, and then clean up the hole with a tap.
I recommend filing bolt top,placing good fitting washer over, welding connection,then tacking nut or bolt to washer, letting cool, then penetrating oil and work back and forth a bit before removing entirely. then use broken bolt with small zip cut slot through thread length as chaser,saves time on chasing the rest.
Great post,following with interest and concentration. |
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firengine103
Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2016
Posts: 8
Location: Edmond Oklahoma
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 11:41 am Post subject: Re: Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step |
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| Great thread, Thank you!! Jim E. OKC |
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dagen_1
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2017
Posts: 77
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:11 am Post subject: Re: Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step |
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still a valuable thread in 2018. thanks for the detailed posts and pictures.
many thanks!
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TheDon
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2005
Posts: 498
Location: Windermere
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| Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 9:20 am Post subject: Re: Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step |
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I am so glad the thread author used the photo hosting on TS for all of his detailed photos. I just ordered the same book and have a single port engine to rebuild. This thread is great
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Keithinky
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2014
Posts: 435
Location: Bradenton, FL
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| Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 12:56 pm Post subject: Re: Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step |
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Maboyce,
Awesome. Thanks for putting this on the samba for all of us. Looking at how thorough you were I can see it was very time consuming- engine work and writing, pic posting.
Thank you. Keith |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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| that's why I was asking to be 100% sure, I've had people tell me to paint the inside too but I thought it'd end up getting the oil as you said, that's why I asked even though it's kind of a stupid question. I'd rather consult multiple sources to make the right decision than mess it up and screw up an engine. |
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15987
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:49 am Post subject: |
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| eschmi wrote: |
| alright thanks! unfortunately I already sand blasted the whole thing :/ so I guess ill just sand the inside with 220 and clean it really, Really well lol |
If you sandblasted the whole thing why would you need to do anything other than paint the outside. The reason you don't want to paint the inside of the covers is because the heat and oil will strip the paint and add it into the crankcase oil supply. There the paint flakes will circulate throughout the engine gumming things up. You don't want that.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road  }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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| alright thanks! unfortunately I already sand blasted the whole thing :/ so I guess ill just sand the inside with 220 and clean it really, Really well lol |
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Zundfolge1432
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12468
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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| eschmi wrote: |
| Sorry if this is a stupid question, but do you do anything with the inside of the valve covers? I'm rebuilding mine and finally starting to paint the tins, but hesitant to put any kind of paint on the inside of the engine, should I just sand it with 220 and make sure its all nice and clean and only paint the outside? |
That's correct no paint on the inside of the valve covers. I would not sand it if its dirty wash it in a parts cleaner. If its really bad you can bead blast, a cheap way out on cleaning is to use easy off oven cleaner. Follow the label directions its bad shit if it gets on skin or eyes. Quality paint such as rust oleum is a good choice and you can re touch later as needed. The powder coat everything deep pocket crowd here will advocate using that but stick with the paint. Powder coat usually gets too think and makes for fitment issues. It's also expensive, leave that to the silk stocking boys  |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Sorry if this is a stupid question, but do you do anything with the inside of the valve covers? I'm rebuilding mine and finally starting to paint the tins, but hesitant to put any kind of paint on the inside of the engine, should I just sand it with 220 and make sure its all nice and clean and only paint the outside? |
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VolkDubz
Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2005
Posts: 906
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| Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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Amazing walkthrough, thanks for the pictures and helpful information.  |
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Andy Schneider
Samba Member
Joined: May 20, 2014
Posts: 41
Location: Detroit
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| Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 9:03 am Post subject: |
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| subscribed. This is great! |
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NewVWFan
Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2005
Posts: 159
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| Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Great thread, answered a number of my questions. |
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aprophet
Samba Member
Joined: August 11, 2013
Posts: 78
Location: chesapeake bay
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:02 am Post subject: |
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| johnnypan wrote: |
| 66KG wrote: |
Excellent thread, I'm currently using this info for my 1600 single port rebuild.
Just one observation (unless I missed it) you didn't appear to Establish oil pressure and prime the engine before firing;
Found the instruction below;
Remove the spark plugs and oil pressure switch.
Note: Keep the spark plugs out until later; if they are in, remove them. The reason the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are removed (or left out) is that you do not want the connecting rod or main bearings "loaded" during the "dry" period that exists before oil pressure is achieved. It is only after oil pressure is achieved that the spark plugs should be in place during cranking.
Prime the oil pump with a few squirts of oil into the pump outlet (by way of the hole for the oil pressure switch.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and place the end in appropriate contain to catch the gas that will squirt from the fuel pump during cranking.
Get into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition. Crank the engine over until oil squirts out the oil pressure switch hole and gas squirts out of the end of the fuel line.
Install the oil pressure switch, and connect the oil pressure switch wire.
Continue cranking until the oil indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out, then continue cranking for another 10 seconds or so. The oil system of the engine is now ready. |
Properly assembled with assembly lubricant the correct procedure for the lubrication system is as follows...
turn the ignition key,start engine,oil pressure light goes out.
This whole thread wonderfully details how to assemble a vw engine using the same techniques one uses assembling a model airplane...clean and glue the parts..for a visual reference it is great,for an actual technical guide its worthless.. |
Is there a better thread for technical guidance ?? thanks |
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Lebleboojian
Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010
Posts: 56
Location: New Jersey
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:14 am Post subject: head nuts |
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| do you use loctite on the head nuts to keep them from loosening? If not, when do you retorque the heads? |
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johnnypan
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 7431
Location: sackamenna
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| Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:52 am Post subject: |
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| 66KG wrote: |
Excellent thread, I'm currently using this info for my 1600 single port rebuild.
Just one observation (unless I missed it) you didn't appear to Establish oil pressure and prime the engine before firing;
Found the instruction below;
Remove the spark plugs and oil pressure switch.
Note: Keep the spark plugs out until later; if they are in, remove them. The reason the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are removed (or left out) is that you do not want the connecting rod or main bearings "loaded" during the "dry" period that exists before oil pressure is achieved. It is only after oil pressure is achieved that the spark plugs should be in place during cranking.
Prime the oil pump with a few squirts of oil into the pump outlet (by way of the hole for the oil pressure switch.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and place the end in appropriate contain to catch the gas that will squirt from the fuel pump during cranking.
Get into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition. Crank the engine over until oil squirts out the oil pressure switch hole and gas squirts out of the end of the fuel line.
Install the oil pressure switch, and connect the oil pressure switch wire.
Continue cranking until the oil indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out, then continue cranking for another 10 seconds or so. The oil system of the engine is now ready. |
Properly assembled with assembly lubricant the correct procedure for the lubrication system is as follows...
turn the ignition key,start engine,oil pressure light goes out.
This whole thread wonderfully details how to assemble a vw engine using the same techniques one uses assembling a model airplane...clean and glue the parts..for a visual reference it is great,for an actual technical guide its worthless.. |
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66KG
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2014
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:27 am Post subject: |
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Excellent thread, I'm currently using this info for my 1600 single port rebuild.
Just one observation (unless I missed it) you didn't appear to Establish oil pressure and prime the engine before firing;
Found the instruction below;
Remove the spark plugs and oil pressure switch.
Note: Keep the spark plugs out until later; if they are in, remove them. The reason the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are removed (or left out) is that you do not want the connecting rod or main bearings "loaded" during the "dry" period that exists before oil pressure is achieved. It is only after oil pressure is achieved that the spark plugs should be in place during cranking.
Prime the oil pump with a few squirts of oil into the pump outlet (by way of the hole for the oil pressure switch.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and place the end in appropriate contain to catch the gas that will squirt from the fuel pump during cranking.
Get into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition. Crank the engine over until oil squirts out the oil pressure switch hole and gas squirts out of the end of the fuel line.
Install the oil pressure switch, and connect the oil pressure switch wire.
Continue cranking until the oil indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out, then continue cranking for another 10 seconds or so. The oil system of the engine is now ready. |
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Shakezilla
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2013
Posts: 42
Location: Tucson
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:03 am Post subject: |
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| Great thread, I'm starting my first rebuild in the next couple weeks and this will absolutely be in my library. |
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tisius
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2011
Posts: 1570
Location: Rotterdam,NL (+Chicago,IL)
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 3:02 am Post subject: |
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very informative thread!!!!! 
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