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SG profile ignition switch lock cylinder.
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3foldfolly
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: SG profile ignition switch lock cylinder. Reply with quote

I want to re-key the lock tumblers in my ignition lock cylinder to match my NOS outer door handle Huf key. Is this possible or would it be easier to re-key the door lock cylinder?
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is most likely easier to rekey the ignition switch. If you have a relatively rare Bosch switch, you can't take it apart. Another reason to do the switch is to clean out the last 50 years of gunk so it works smoothly.
Post a pic of your ignition switch.
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3foldfolly
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bruce, I'll try and get out there tomorrow night or Tuesday and take it out to get a pic.
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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is wayy easier to rekey a door vs ignition
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1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656
1957 oval
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=426468&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
1957 dd kombi
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=186478&highlight=
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slow36hp wrote:
it is wayy easier to rekey a door vs ignition

Not when the tiny grub screw is peened over.

There's nothing difficult about rekeying an ignition switch.
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GLHTurbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm very interested about rekeying both the handles and ignition...some detailed pics and instructions would be much appreciated!
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an oval's ignition switch:

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The lock cylinder of an oval window's ignition switch is held in place with the small wire clip. Groove for clip is indicated.

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Although this is a 56-59 handle, the earlier handle comes apart the same. You have to remove the tiny grub screw in this hole. On most handles, there's a centerpunch mark just beside the top of the hole to lock the set screw in place. Sometimes it is impossible to get the screw out without destroying it's slot.
Once you get them apart, wash the gunk off with solvent or brake-clean. Mix the wafers around until they are flush with the OD of the lock cylinder when the key is in the cylinder. If you think you can just mix them around and be done, it's not that simple. You will be left with some wafers that are the wrong size, and in need of others you don't have. That is why it's a good idea to collect broken handles to get parts from.
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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
slow36hp wrote:
it is wayy easier to rekey a door vs ignition

Not when the tiny grub screw is peened over.

There's nothing difficult about rekeying an ignition switch.

personally have never had real issues with the grub screw i always heat the handle after apply oil. i have had a bugger of a time however removing the clip from the ingition and reusing it afterwards. quess it is all luck of the draw.
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1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656
1957 oval
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=426468&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
1957 dd kombi
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=186478&highlight=
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slow36hp wrote:
i have had a bugger of a time however removing the clip from the ingition and reusing it afterwards. quess it is all luck of the draw.
Sounds like you're not using the right tools. Really pointy dental pics do the job every time. After you get it out, you could file a small slot perpendicular to the groove to help get under the clip.
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overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote:
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk.....
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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i normally use a dental pick with sucess however just two nights ago i had one that just wouldnt come off. admittedly someone had forced the cylinder with a screwdiver (instead of using a key). all said either way is not very hard i just seem to find it easier to go after door handles.

in a pinch with limited tumbler selection you can always tune them with a file to work
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1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656
1957 oval
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=426468&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
1957 dd kombi
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=186478&highlight=
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GLHTurbo
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great info guys, thanks. Any pics of the actual key matching process?

Will the guts of a 64ish door handle set work for spare parts?

Also, can you do this to a T-handle as well?
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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes on parts and t handle no on fitting pictures
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1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656
1957 oval
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=426468&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
1957 dd kombi
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=186478&highlight=
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GLHTurbo wrote:
Will the guts of a 64ish door handle set work for spare parts?

Also, can you do this to a T-handle as well?

The wafers might work. There are two different diameters, and two thicknesses. Lock cylinders don't interchange.
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overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote:
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bloogy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the riveted style dis assembly. More work, you have to gently separate the rear as a whole assembly prying up on the crimps. then you can remove the assembly which easily separates into two pieces. Remove the pin and wedge and the lock cylinder comes out. Make sure to have the key in place to prevent the tumblers and springs from flying.

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