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billyfeet
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2004
Posts: 59
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 Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:24 pm Post subject: Steering Box tool and adjustment |
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| I have a 67 sedan that I had a new steering box installed 10,000 miles ago. I have done a front end check by pulling on the wheels to rule out tie rod ends and wheel bearing play. I have about 4 inches of slop in the steering wheel when parked. I have Bently, and have read about proceedure to adjust steering box. I do not have a tool that will fit in the large allen nut on the box. I called VW Paradise, a pretty old and busy VW repair shop and they neither have this tool, or even know about adjusting the box with it. The service guy said to adjust the screw on top. I'm not too happy that they are unaware of the correct proceedure as outlined in Bently, but would like to adjust the box correctly. My question is does anybody in San Diego/Orange county have a tool to work that big allen nut? Would you sell/lend the tool or adjust box for me? Is there a repair shop that has tool and knows the correct proceedure? Should I just adjust the top screw and see how that works out? I like to do things right, the first time, don't mind paying to have work performed correctly, and want my car to have tight, original feel to the steering. Am I insane? :wink: |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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Find a bolt with a head the same size as the plug hex. Cut it off, and either turn it with a wrench on it (if the bolt head is thick), or grab the bolt shank with vice grips, or with a wrench on the flats you can grind on the bolt shank.
You are right to adjust this first, before (over)tightening the setscrew on top. USUALLY the big plug is set right, but if not, you really stress the gear by over-tightening the setscrew.
With 4 inches of play, I'd check the rubber coupler and Pittman arm first, though.
And all adjustments are done on a freshly greased beam, on jack-stands, and following the procedure's instructions about turning the wheel to the side a given amount before adjusting, right?
And check and set your toe-in aferwords. Even with a little play, correct toe-in will make it track and even self-center better (although it's [non-adjustable] caster that does most of the centering). |
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bill may
Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2003
Posts: 14160
Location: san diego,ca
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| Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:05 pm Post subject: Re: Steering Box tool and adjustment |
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| billyfeet wrote: |
I have a 67 sedan that I had a new steering box installed 10,000 miles ago. I have done a front end check by pulling on the wheels to rule out tie rod ends and wheel bearing play. I have about 4 inches of slop in the steering wheel when parked. I have Bently, and have read about proceedure to adjust steering box. I do not have a tool that will fit in the large allen nut on the box. I called VW Paradise, a pretty old and busy VW repair shop and they neither have this tool, or even know about adjusting the box with it. The service guy said to adjust the screw on top. I'm not too happy that they are unaware of the correct proceedure as outlined in Bently, but would like to adjust the box correctly. My question is does anybody in San Diego/Orange county have a tool to work that big allen nut? Would you sell/lend the tool or adjust box for me? Is there a repair shop that has tool and knows the correct proceedure? Should I just adjust the top screw and see how that works out? I like to do things right, the first time, don't mind paying to have work performed correctly, and want my car to have tight, original feel to the steering. Am I insane?  |
when new steering box was installed- was it a TRW???? did you put trans grease (thick oil-80/90wt) in it or did you use a universal grease??
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Admin note: Bill Passed away - July, 2017
1965 panel bus-Kermit
"Camping is cheaper than therapy"
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www.steeringboxscrapers.net
SBS #100
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453617 |
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bill may
Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2003
Posts: 14160
Location: san diego,ca
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| Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
Find a bolt with a head the same size as the plug hex. Cut it off, and either turn it with a wrench on it (if the bolt head is thick), or grab the bolt shank with vice grips, or with a wrench on the flats you can grind on the bolt shank.
You are right to adjust this first, before (over)tightening the setscrew on top. USUALLY the big plug is set right, but if not, you really stress the gear by over-tightening the setscrew.
With 4 inches of play, I'd check the rubber coupler and Pittman arm first, though.
And all adjustments are done on a freshly greased beam, on jack-stands, and following the procedure's instructions about turning the wheel to the side a given amount before adjusting, right?
And check and set your toe-in aferwords. Even with a little play, correct toe-in will make it track and even self-center better (although it's [non-adjustable] caster that does most of the centering). |
oil pressure switch is correct 12 point for this.
_________________
Admin note: Bill Passed away - July, 2017
1965 panel bus-Kermit
"Camping is cheaper than therapy"
www.sv2s.com
www.steeringboxscrapers.net
SBS #100
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453617 |
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billyfeet
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2004
Posts: 59
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| Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Much thanks for the replies. It is a TRW box, VW Paradise installed it, so I do not know if they filled it. I'll check with them if they fill the box, and if it comes filled. I think I have an old oil press switch, thanks for the tip. |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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| '67 used late style box, with two plastic plugs, and used high pressure moly grease, not oil. |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26325
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:04 am Post subject: |
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| bill may wrote: |
oil pressure switch is correct 12 point for this. |
Yep, I've gutted bad oil pressure switches before and turned them into a tool to use for this. They need to be the taller style switches though.
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bartman
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 767
Location: palatka, fl
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| Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a tool I made from a 15/15" nut welded to a piece of flat stock:
I tighten and loosen the locknut by turning it by hand while turning the adjuster with the wrench. |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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| bartman wrote: |
| Here's a tool I made from a 15/15" nut welded to a piece of flat stock: |
Is that the same as a 1" nut? |
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JoelH
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2003
Posts: 1312
Location: North Dakota
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bartman
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 767
Location: palatka, fl
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| Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| bartman wrote: |
| Here's a tool I made from a 15/15" nut welded to a piece of flat stock: |
Is that the same as a 1" nut? |
| squirmyman wrote: |
| I think he meant to say 15/16" nut |
Yeah,
what he said  |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, just bustin...
Despite the large size of the "plug", that is only because it pushes on a bearing that is a large diameter. It takes very little torque to snug it up. So you don't need an industrial strength wrench. |
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bartman
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 767
Location: palatka, fl
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| Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
Yeah, just bustin...
Despite the large size of the "plug", that is only because it pushes on a bearing that is a large diameter. It takes very little torque to snug it up. So you don't need an industrial strength wrench. |
I don't have a wrench for the lockring so I adjust it as necessary, back it off a bit, tighten the lockring by hand, and tighten the wrench as I tighten the lockring by hand. It takes a bit of trial and error but it's the only way I can do it.
Before I got a welder I used a sender and wrench but it was a little more awkward |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34021
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:24 am Post subject: |
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| bartman wrote: |
| I don't have a wrench for the lockring so I adjust it as necessary, back it off a bit, tighten the lockring by hand, and tighten the wrench as I tighten the lockring by hand. It takes a bit of trial and error but it's the only way I can do it. |
Pretty much the same method as adjusting valves (backing off and letting the tightening settle on the correct adjustment), nothing wrong with that.
Last edited by KTPhil on Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:14 am; edited 1 time in total |
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GA_Boy
Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2006
Posts: 1405
Location: Jefferson, GA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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| bartman wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
Yeah, just bustin...
Despite the large size of the "plug", that is only because it pushes on a bearing that is a large diameter. It takes very little torque to snug it up. So you don't need an industrial strength wrench. |
I don't have a wrench for the lockring so I adjust it as necessary, |
Imade my lockring wrench from flat stock.
Marvin
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bartman
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 767
Location: palatka, fl
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| Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 12:22 am Post subject: |
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| GA_Boy wrote: |
| bartman wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
Yeah, just bustin...
Despite the large size of the "plug", that is only because it pushes on a bearing that is a large diameter. It takes very little torque to snug it up. So you don't need an industrial strength wrench. |
I don't have a wrench for the lockring so I adjust it as necessary, |
Imade my lockring wrench from flat stock.
Marvin
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Nice. I though about making something similar but my method has worked so far so it hasn't been a priority.
Does it have any heat treatment? |
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GA_Boy
Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2006
Posts: 1405
Location: Jefferson, GA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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No heat treatment but it didn't loose its shape. I didn't put a lot of torque on it though.
Marvin |
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tb03830
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2009
Posts: 1045
Location: Leavenworth, KS
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| Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 2:03 pm Post subject: Re: Steering Box tool and adjustment |
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| billyfeet wrote: |
| I have a 67 sedan that I had a new steering box installed 10,000 miles ago. I have done a front end check by pulling on the wheels to rule out tie rod ends and wheel bearing play. I have about 4 inches of slop in the steering wheel when parked. |
When you say you have 4 inches of slop are you talking about the steering wheel moving and the tires/linkage not moving? I have about 2 inches of that and I was wondering if the big allen nut fixed that? I am about to make the tool.
_________________
"Sic Vic Pacem, Para bellum - Pray for peace, prepare for war."
1964 Convertible Bug - 1600cc SP engine with a stock H30/31 Carb and SVDA Distributor - Swing Arm Highway Flyer Tranny, Gene Berg's Temperature Dipstick, 2.5" drop spindles, 2" narrowed adjustable front end. Chromed OEM fan tower. |
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billyfeet
Samba Member
Joined: November 04, 2004
Posts: 59
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| Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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| The steering wheel could turn 4'' before the wheels would move. All suspension and steering ball joints/tierod ends are good. I adjusted the "big nut" with a tool that I made using a nut JB Welded to a piece of flat stock. The nut was easy to move and the tool worked great. But it is hard to tell how much to adjust this aspect of the box. I tried a few different adjustments followed by test drives. I think that I finally got it back to where it was originally and left it there. Then I adjusted the slotted screw/lock nut on top of the box. It was easy to "feel" the adjustment, and after 2 test rides/adjustments got the steering feeling like new. The Bently procedure calls for adjusting the big allen nut first, but I would just try the top screw first and see how you do. I like to follow procedures as the factory would, but in this case I should have gone right to the slotted screw. My steering box was a new TRW box with 500 miles on it prior to the adjustment. Good luck! |
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tb03830
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2009
Posts: 1045
Location: Leavenworth, KS
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| Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 6:35 am Post subject: |
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Thanks that is exactly the issue I have and this helps. 
_________________
"Sic Vic Pacem, Para bellum - Pray for peace, prepare for war."
1964 Convertible Bug - 1600cc SP engine with a stock H30/31 Carb and SVDA Distributor - Swing Arm Highway Flyer Tranny, Gene Berg's Temperature Dipstick, 2.5" drop spindles, 2" narrowed adjustable front end. Chromed OEM fan tower. |
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