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bad panel fitment or bad seal? rust issues?
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VWGirl
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 6:17 am    Post subject: bad panel fitment or bad seal? rust issues? Reply with quote

I just got my 78 westy back from the "resto shop" in may. That is another story all together, but the problem is that I have the same issues as what I started with. I had the typical rusted out lower window lip that had been rusted out on my bus for 15 years or so, compiled with the bus sitting in the FL weather under just a carport for 10 of those years.

When I went to pick up the bus I noticed the lower right hand side of the windshield did not seat properly. There is a gap between the seal and where it should sit flush on the body. I commented about this to the shop and he told me it was fine that they frequently do this and others have said it's just a crappy seal.

How do I tell if it is just a bad window install or just the seal, or bad bodywork? The seal is brand new wolfsburg west. The windshield is the same one that was taken out of the bus for the resto. When looking at the bus I can tell that the seal sits slightly higher on the right side (based on the roof line of the westy top, but it is possible that could be slightly off too). There are some large drips in the paint at the top that someone pointed out to me saying they are disturbing the seal, but I don't think that would cause it to not seat in the corner since that is the top middle where the drips are and the seating issue is the lower right.

Since the lip was replaced with one of the Gerson repair panels, I am sure that the piece itself was correct, but I am weary of the installation. I don't know how hard/easy it is to screw up welding a piece like that in the bus. Are there measurements somewhere that I can check with the window installed or do i need to take it out to check?

I also noticed yesterday that in the corner that isn't seating right I can see lots of rust on the inside of the lip, perhaps that is causing it not to seat right? The other side that seats correctly I can't see rust on the inside.

It doesn't look that bad really, but rust is not my friend

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My new Klassic fab floorboard is also already starting to rust. I am using a VW rubber floor mat and even though I have barely used the bus, there is water that is getting underneath the mat (no idea where it is coming in) and i guess there were some scratches on the floor before i put it down so those are rusting. The square pattern of the back of the floor mat seems to have also already worn through the paint causing rust, and there are small pits where the weld spots (not normal weld spots, but actual holes where it wasn't welded correctly) are that are collecting water. Is there something I can put on the floorboard to protect it that will prevent rust and wear through from the floor mat?

Thanks in advance
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reproduction rubber never seems to be same as the original German rubber. Unless you can find a different/wider reproduction or good used German rubber to try?

Did they coat the Gerson metal with Master Series silver/black after they welded it in? Rubber mats will Always trap moisture/cause rust!
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VWGirl
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems to fit everywhere but this side which seems generally lifted up on top and bottom. What is the solution to seal it if this is the norm? I don't want dirt and water under there rotting it out more than it already is.

As far as for coating the floor. I thought he did but considering how thin the paint is I don't think he actually did. He put rust bullet on the floor in the back but there is no evidence of it on the front. And I am scared to look underneath the floor because it is probably just bare green metal.

Is the master series better than rust bullet? Guess I will look in to that. I thought the rubber would be better than the Westy carpet that was in there. I wasn't prepared for rust this soon!
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would never use POR15 again! Mad
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BDSBSS23
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
I would never use POR15 again! Mad

AMEN!
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beetlenut
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWGirl wrote:
It seems to fit everywhere but this side which seems generally lifted up on top and bottom. What is the solution to seal it if this is the norm? I don't want dirt and water under there rotting it out more than it already is.

As far as for coating the floor. I thought he did but considering how thin the paint is I don't think he actually did. He put rust bullet on the floor in the back but there is no evidence of it on the front. And I am scared to look underneath the floor because it is probably just bare green metal.

Is the master series better than rust bullet? Guess I will look in to that. I thought the rubber would be better than the Westy carpet that was in there. I wasn't prepared for rust this soon!


The auto glass guys use this black sealer stuff around windshields, might check into that. It would also match the existing seal. I've been using the Master Series stuff on my rustoration and have been pleased with the results so far. Two coats of the Silver primer, and one coat of the top coat is the recommended application.
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68nofussbus
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same thing happened to me on my 72, i welded in new bottom windshield lip and put in a new seal - no matter how I tried to position the window I had a small gap letting water in , I then had a windshield guy put erathane black sealer all around the window and it stopped the leak , you can buy the same stuff from advance auto parts for $25 a tube , just read the directions on cleaning it up as it will ooze out from under the seal , also make sure your wiper seals and sprayer seals arnt letting water in . good luck
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

unless your planning on window removal..your only fix at this point is the window sealer/urethane method...90% of the time it's the window cut and NOT the gasket...the gasket is simply hugging the window edge..seen this with beetle glass as well.

..or buy a new rubber in better quality maybe.

...as far as any of the rust prevent stuff....let's talk AFTER the car has been on the road,seasons change and water/weather time frames...

...i have NEVER seen any of these products stand the test of time...and time, i mean a year and change of regular use...they seem to always blister from the underside out...sometimes trapping the moisture/rust beneath the product.

though some nay differ in opinion...the real and only fix is blast,seal and paint.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

schell '59 wrote:
unless your planning on window removal..your only fix at this point is the window sealer/urethane method...90% of the time it's the window cut and NOT the gasket...the gasket is simply hugging the window edge..seen this with beetle glass as well.


though some nay differ in opinion...the real and only fix is blast,seal and paint.


Agreed on both points. And the blast, epoxy prime, paint is the only way I've been doing it for the last 12 years or so. When you use good (read expensive) materials, you only want to do it once. Wink
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...yeah it sucks when guys pay good money only to have their s--t fail.
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VWGirl
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was confirmed this weekend that it was in fact the body work, the guy installed my lower windshield lip wrong and thats why it wont seal Sad so until i can afford to have my bus completely redone (again) i am going to have to just seal it up so it will stop leaking.
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