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71beetleman Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2011 Posts: 10 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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i ordered everything that was needed..
degree pulley
feeler gague
timing light
dwell meter
ok so when i put the car in TDC the rotor is facing ( from left to right )
like this \ as in
3 1
\
4 2
so does that mean its facing 3? |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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Your firing order is off. Not even close.
Keep in mind that Zundfolge means "firing order" in german, which is why it is stamped into the case. 1-4-3-2
Establish where #1 is and then it is 1-4-3-2 around the cap in the direction it turns when you use the starter.
That line on the side of the distributor really means nothing. Do it like I told you to up above and it will at least run. |
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71beetleman Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2011 Posts: 10 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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when im establishing TDC im putting the pulley with the dent in the TDC position..im taking the dist cap off and looking at the rotor that is facing
what appears to be the #3 ... for sure not #1 it is at a slant like this ( \ )
meaning the #3 being the top left and the #2 being the bottom right
so does that establish that the #1 is NOT in firing position and the #3 is?
and if the #3 is in firing position what does that mean for #1 as far as establishing my #1 wire? |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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Keep in mind that the engine's crankshaft turns 720º everytime the distributor turns 360º. TDC happens at both the top of the compression stroke at #1 cylinder adn is also the top of the exhaust stroke on cylinder #3. That is why you have to verify by (observing the valves and moving the pulley an inch or two on both sides of TDC).
You could just put the rotor back in the distributor cap (it only really goes one way) and put the #3 cylinder plug wire about where the rotor points. Call that #3. From there it would be plug wires 3-2-1-4 around the cap.
Does that help. |
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71beetleman Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2011 Posts: 10 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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i figured that out as it was prying my brain open! hahah! i got it to turn over and it ran for a second struggling to stay running..... i guess now i need to hook up the dwell meter and figure out my points situation?!? i gapped them at 0.16... is it now a timing and advance thing?
(my fuel filter is new )
(new wires, new points, new plugs )
thanks for your help again.. |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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Stick that dwell meter on the green points wire that goes to the coil and a good ground.
47º +/- 3º is what we are looking for.
Then just remove any vacuum hoses to the distributor, wind the engine up and set the timing so that when all of the centrifical advance it has to offer is all in and make that to be 28º BTDC.
The engine will be wound up pretty good ~ 3000-3500 RPMs, but you don't care what the RPMs are. You will be watching the timing light show advance until it will not advance any more no matter how much gas you give it.
You can also have your lovely helper "give it some gas, but not blowing it up" in the drivers seat while you dink with the timing back there. |
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71beetleman Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2011 Posts: 10 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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so close... its running back to normal but it sounds and feels like its a little off!
ive never used a dwell meter.. so can you gimme a run down?
as in after i get it hooked up and all that how do i tweak?
ps its idling fine but when i open it up ( in nutural ) it feels shakey and odd
kinda off..? |
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71beetleman Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2011 Posts: 10 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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gotcha.. ill post back when i got all that together .. thanks again randy..your help has kept me from losing my mind.. but you gotta start somewhere.. rock on! |
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AZVWlover Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2009 Posts: 142 Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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I know this reply is 8 years later but It might help someone that is referring to this thread for help.
I had a similar problem with my 69 bug with all the same symptoms. I went through all the diagonstics that you all have mentioned and I finally sent it in to a local VW shop that has a good reputation. They did a value adjustment and replaced spark plugs and said it was just a carb issue. The reason I took it in was so I could pass emissions. Well the car only got worse after it left the shop. After spending $260.00 and my car still running bad, I ran into this post.
Well, sure enough all that was wrong with the car the entire time was the condesor retaining screw on the outside of the distributor was loose. Causing it to ground and run bad and backfire and hesistate. I tightened the screw down and literally like MAGIC, the car ran PERFECT! No heistation, no back fires...nothing. It's now running better than I have ever seen it run and it was thanks to a little screw tightening.
So CHECK that screw to the condensor FIRST, if you have the same symptoms as the Original Poster had. Hope this saves someone time and money...good luck. _________________ 1972 VW, 1967 karmann Ghia,1964 VW Bug,1967 VW Bug (all matching numbers), 1969 VW Bug, 58' matching VW, 59' VW bug, 56 oval ragtop matching. |
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stevievw Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2008 Posts: 2 Location: Tasmania, Australia
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Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 12:18 am Post subject: Re: sputters and backfires under acceleration 1600DP PICT34 009 |
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Three years on same symptoms same soloution. New condensor out of the box 15 miles faulty! |
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jmmj Samba Member
Joined: December 13, 2005 Posts: 246 Location: Brasil / New Zealand
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Posted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 9:52 am Post subject: Re: sputters and backfires under acceleration 1600DP PICT34 009 |
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stevievw wrote: |
Three years on same symptoms same soloution. New condensor out of the box 15 miles faulty! |
I went through the mystery engine that came with my bus before replacing the screw that holds down the condensor. It wasn't long enough for some reason and left the condensor/vacuum kind of loose. I had spent days going through everything and thinking about the problem. Screwed the condensor down and problem solved.
Symptoms were: seems fine idling and reving, but any condition under load and it'd sputter and backfire. _________________ New project!! Brazilian Split!!
63 Panel Van Project (Sold)
71 Bay window Devon Camper (Sold)
79 Brazilian Bug / Fusca |
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