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sputters and backfires under acceleration 1600DP PICT34 009
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71beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i ordered everything that was needed..
degree pulley
feeler gague
timing light
dwell meter

ok so when i put the car in TDC the rotor is facing ( from left to right )
like this \ as in

3 1
\
4 2

so does that mean its facing 3?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your firing order is off. Not even close.

Keep in mind that Zundfolge means "firing order" in german, which is why it is stamped into the case. 1-4-3-2

Establish where #1 is and then it is 1-4-3-2 around the cap in the direction it turns when you use the starter.

That line on the side of the distributor really means nothing. Do it like I told you to up above and it will at least run.
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71beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when im establishing TDC im putting the pulley with the dent in the TDC position..im taking the dist cap off and looking at the rotor that is facing
what appears to be the #3 ... for sure not #1 it is at a slant like this ( \ )
meaning the #3 being the top left and the #2 being the bottom right

so does that establish that the #1 is NOT in firing position and the #3 is?
and if the #3 is in firing position what does that mean for #1 as far as establishing my #1 wire?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind that the engine's crankshaft turns 720º everytime the distributor turns 360º. TDC happens at both the top of the compression stroke at #1 cylinder adn is also the top of the exhaust stroke on cylinder #3. That is why you have to verify by (observing the valves and moving the pulley an inch or two on both sides of TDC).

You could just put the rotor back in the distributor cap (it only really goes one way) and put the #3 cylinder plug wire about where the rotor points. Call that #3. From there it would be plug wires 3-2-1-4 around the cap.

Does that help.
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71beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i figured that out as it was prying my brain open! hahah! i got it to turn over and it ran for a second struggling to stay running..... i guess now i need to hook up the dwell meter and figure out my points situation?!? i gapped them at 0.16... is it now a timing and advance thing?
(my fuel filter is new )
(new wires, new points, new plugs )
thanks for your help again..
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stick that dwell meter on the green points wire that goes to the coil and a good ground.

47º +/- 3º is what we are looking for.

Then just remove any vacuum hoses to the distributor, wind the engine up and set the timing so that when all of the centrifical advance it has to offer is all in and make that to be 28º BTDC.

The engine will be wound up pretty good ~ 3000-3500 RPMs, but you don't care what the RPMs are. You will be watching the timing light show advance until it will not advance any more no matter how much gas you give it.

You can also have your lovely helper "give it some gas, but not blowing it up" in the drivers seat while you dink with the timing back there.
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71beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so close... its running back to normal but it sounds and feels like its a little off!

ive never used a dwell meter.. so can you gimme a run down?
as in after i get it hooked up and all that how do i tweak?

ps its idling fine but when i open it up ( in nutural ) it feels shakey and odd
kinda off..?
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71beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gotcha.. ill post back when i got all that together .. thanks again randy..your help has kept me from losing my mind.. but you gotta start somewhere.. rock on!
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AZVWlover
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this reply is 8 years later but It might help someone that is referring to this thread for help.

I had a similar problem with my 69 bug with all the same symptoms. I went through all the diagonstics that you all have mentioned and I finally sent it in to a local VW shop that has a good reputation. They did a value adjustment and replaced spark plugs and said it was just a carb issue. The reason I took it in was so I could pass emissions. Well the car only got worse after it left the shop. After spending $260.00 and my car still running bad, I ran into this post.

Well, sure enough all that was wrong with the car the entire time was the condesor retaining screw on the outside of the distributor was loose. Causing it to ground and run bad and backfire and hesistate. I tightened the screw down and literally like MAGIC, the car ran PERFECT! No heistation, no back fires...nothing. It's now running better than I have ever seen it run and it was thanks to a little screw tightening.

So CHECK that screw to the condensor FIRST, if you have the same symptoms as the Original Poster had. Hope this saves someone time and money...good luck.
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stevievw
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 12:18 am    Post subject: Re: sputters and backfires under acceleration 1600DP PICT34 009 Reply with quote

Three years on same symptoms same soloution. New condensor out of the box 15 miles faulty!
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jmmj
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 9:52 am    Post subject: Re: sputters and backfires under acceleration 1600DP PICT34 009 Reply with quote

stevievw wrote:
Three years on same symptoms same soloution. New condensor out of the box 15 miles faulty!


I went through the mystery engine that came with my bus before replacing the screw that holds down the condensor. It wasn't long enough for some reason and left the condensor/vacuum kind of loose. I had spent days going through everything and thinking about the problem. Screwed the condensor down and problem solved.

Symptoms were: seems fine idling and reving, but any condition under load and it'd sputter and backfire.
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