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generator to alternator?
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1970bug1600dp
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 11:18 am    Post subject: generator to alternator? Reply with quote

hi all im converting my 1970 bug 1600 dp to an alternator today anyone have a wiring diagram or know what i have to change Brick wall
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andk5591 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do a search - the generator alternator conversions have been covered a lot of times - but whether you are using an external voltage regulator or if the alternator has an internal one makes a big differenve on what you need to do.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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StuartN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used that diagram that Glenn posted and also watched this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwPDVDAuO7Y

That guy had a few suggestions not shown in the diagram (grounding and wiring to the starter).

Although, I'm not sure what the wiring to the starter actually does.

Mine's legit!
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priss
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

StuartN wrote:
........

Although, I'm not sure what the wiring to the starter actually does.



Adding an alternator of substantionaly larger amperage then the wiring in your car was designed for can lead to hot wires and fire. The large gauge wire from the Alternator to the starter is actually going directly to the battery positive pole. It is really just an extention of the large gauge wire that feeds the starter.
Another added benifit of running this wire, and making it as large as the battery to starter wire, is that you can now use the alternator positive stud for jump starts. Much easier then pulling the rear seat out and needing wicked long jumper cables.
Also when using your timing light you can hook it up right to the alternator positive. Works good for other 12v accesories too, like air compressor or lighting.

Be carefull though. The Alternator case is ground and quite close to the positive pole. Engine vibration can move aligator clamps and contact with the case can happen, along with alot of sparks.
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johnnypan
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

priss wrote:
StuartN wrote:
........

Although, I'm not sure what the wiring to the starter actually does.



Adding an alternator of substantionaly larger amperage then the wiring in your car was designed for can lead to hot wires and fire. The large gauge wire from the Alternator to the starter is actually going directly to the battery positive pole. It is really just an extention of the large gauge wire that feeds the starter.
Another added benifit of running this wire, and making it as large as the battery to starter wire, is that you can now use the alternator positive stud for jump starts. Much easier then pulling the rear seat out and needing wicked long jumper cables.
Also when using your timing light you can hook it up right to the alternator positive. Works good for other 12v accesories too, like air compressor or lighting.

Be carefull though. The Alternator case is ground and quite close to the positive pole. Engine vibration can move aligator clamps and contact with the case can happen, along with alot of sparks.



Charge wire gauge in alternator cars and generator cars are the same.

Adding a VW alternator does not add excessive amperage to the charge wire nor will it cause a fire.

Never jump start any car at the alternator charge wire,this is where you can cause a FIRE, the 10 gauge charge wire will not accept the 150 amps or so it takes to initially crank a starting motor.

Phew,your a dangerous one aint ya...
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priss
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnnypan wrote:


Phew,your a dangerous one aint ya...



Yes, yes i am.

I am happy we are in agreement, about me, and that Bigger amps need bigger wires.

Alternator conversions come in up to 95 amp size last time i went shopping for one. Which would be substantionally larger then stock for either generator or alternator bugs. The explination i provided was about the reason for adding the big wire from the Alternator to the starter, as seen in the youtube vid link. Its explained better on the Rob and Dave pages, and the links they provide. I belive i got the gist of it. But your right too, same is same and if the Alt output is the same as the Gen output then you wouldnt need that wire.

I'm not electrical engineer but i can make practical decisions based on reasonalble comparitive evidence. I think, i read, i compare, i test and learn. Sometimes i make mistakes and learn even more. I would encourage this behavior in anyone who really wants to know stuff and not just repeat what others have said or done, provided of course that the cost of failure is not to dear.

Anyway,
Jumper cables are available in gauge 12, which i would never use, all the way up to gauge 4. Gauge 10 is therefore way over on the small side and borderline of usefull. But then i didnt suggest a gauge 10 wire. I suggested " making it as large as the battery to starter wire". Same is same right. If its a big enough wire from batery to starter then its the same if from alternator to starter.

Thanks for keeping your eye on me Johnny. Being dangerous is so much more fun when you might get caught. Very Happy
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
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I just want to clarify...I will be running a 75 amp alternator with beefed up alternator wire straight to the a positive side post on the battery(it's a split Bus). I will also be running the standard seperate positive wire from the battery post to the starter. There is no need for the two to be connected together and no problem with the alterntor wired up to constant power? Correct?
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Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

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merkwürdigliebe
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, constant power shouldn't be a problem, as the alt has diodes in it so it doesn't leech power when it is off.

the D+ (idiot light / field) line should be through the ign. switch though, no constant power here, or it will slowly (well, the bulbs worth of current) kill the battery.
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alternately...pun intended... Smile ... Could I hook the B+ Alternator Wire up to the #30 starter lug using the stock type wiring from the battery to the #30 starter lug?? Would there be any difference in that over hooking the B+ up directly to the battery This would be for asthetics in the engine compartment, but I do not want to sacrifice functionality/chargeability. I am just trying to wiehg the options. Thanks in advance.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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priss
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snoop Bob wrote:
Alternately...pun intended... Smile ... Could I hook the B+ Alternator Wire up to the #30 starter lug using the stock type wiring from the battery to the #30 starter lug?? Would there be any difference in that over hooking the B+ up directly to the battery This would be for asthetics in the engine compartment, but I do not want to sacrifice functionality/chargeability. I am just trying to wiehg the options. Thanks in advance.



The dash light still needs to be hooked up, but you can do the big wire to the starter post. Dash light creates the field which sets the alternator to charging. Alternators need to "see" 12 volts to make 12 volts. Or so goes the simple explination.
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I have the dash light covered. I am now concerned whether or not the smaller wire from the battery to the starter will properly handle the larger current flow (charge as efficiently) with the 75 AMP alternator and larger than stock wire from the B+ to that #30 starter lug. I didn't think it would be as efficient as the wire straight from the alternator to the battery but I could be mistaken. I would rather hook it up that way (cleaner/ more hidden) than a big wire straight over to the battery. Thanks again.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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priss
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I admit i am not fully versed in Bus' wiring stuff. However, if the big wire from the battery positive pole goes directly to the #30 Starter lug, then attaching a SAME SIZE wire from the #30 starter lug to the alternator is the same as running the wire from the alternator directly to the battery.
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Snoop Bob
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is not the same size. Again...75 AMP alternator (not stock) to positive lug on starter with larger than stock wire...positive lug on battery with stock wire to battery(smaller than alternator wire)...The fact it is a bus is really a moot point.

If someone with current/amp transferrance knowledge could chime in with the answer (that appears obvious, but I just want to confirm) I would appreciate it. Thanks again.
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BarryL wrote:
Put your lips onto the little tit with the hole in it inside and make a good seal. You can suck and blow but with a little resistance. It gets better after it's wet.

EverettB wrote:
I would be interested in knowing the sizes of the various shafts.
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priss
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snoop Bob wrote:
...75 AMP alternator (not stock) to positive lug on starter with larger than stock wire...positive lug on battery with stock wire to battery(smaller than alternator wire)...


This is exactly what i have in my bug.

Good luck.
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cruzan_71
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm doing a conversion as well, but my altenator has a 3-wire plug and a ground screw... Where does the other 2 wires come from on the harness in my 67??
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