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Looking for the perfect buggy exhaust
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love the look of dual cannons, but know they do not tune well with dual carbs.

Any thoughts on making a connector tube / equalizer tube that would run between the front side of the cannon mufflers around over the tranny bellhousing. They would have to connect at a point just before each muffler where both side tubes come into the muffler so all 4 tube would be equalized.

Kind of like a "H" pipe used on the factory Ford Mustangs connecting each bank together.

Any theories on how it would or would not work?

A balance tube helps make the intakes work better, just thinking it may make a dual cannon tune better.
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bam!!!! Let the sh$@ talking begin
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a great idea to undo the tuning that the factory has done in trying to get equal-length pipes for more efficient scavenging...
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Luscombe
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The street bike muffler on mine, I really like the way this sounds and how it runs.


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donbarnes
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

streetbuggy8804 wrote:
Bam!!!! Let the sh$@ talking begin
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Streetbuggy, I know this post is almost a year old, but I'm doing almost the same thing, but with a 97 DOHC and the factory ecu- Did you have to put an O2 sensor in yours, I can't tell if theres one on the backside of one of your pipes? Also, did you have to add a bracing strap anywhere thats not showing up in the pic, or is it holding up well just coming off the manifold with no bracing? thanks..
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donbarnes
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question for someone- If someone like Murzi is running one Hayabusa muffler on at least a 1600, but that muffler came from a 1300cc engine that used two of them- How do you know it has enough flow capability? Or would it just add a little bit of back pressure that might not be a bad thing? Would a pair of them (from a 1300cc motorcycle) be big enough for a 2.5 Suby?
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don, I had one hayabusa muffler on my buggy and when I swapped out just the muffler for a stinger I saw no "seat of the pants" difference. My theory is that if they were designed for 1300cc screaming at 13,000 rpm they should be enough for 2300cc at 5000. My thoughts anyway....

I ran one on my Baja when I had the 1835 in it and did not see any difference either when switching to a stinger....
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MURZI wrote:
Don, I had one hayabusa muffler on my buggy and when I swapped out just the muffler for a stinger I saw no "seat of the pants" difference. My theory is that if they were designed for 1300cc screaming at 13,000 rpm they should be enough for 2300cc at 5000. My thoughts anyway....

I ran one on my Baja when I had the 1835 in it and did not see any difference either when switching to a stinger....


A 1300 cc spinning at 13,000 RPM is equal to a 2500 cc spinning at 6760 RPM.
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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didget69
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
MURZI wrote:
Don, I had one hayabusa muffler on my buggy and when I swapped out just the muffler for a stinger I saw no "seat of the pants" difference. My theory is that if they were designed for 1300cc screaming at 13,000 rpm they should be enough for 2300cc at 5000. My thoughts anyway....

I ran one on my Baja when I had the 1835 in it and did not see any difference either when switching to a stinger....


A 1300 cc spinning at 13,000 RPM is equal to a 2500 cc spinning at 6760 RPM.


What Joe said... Wink

Likewise: city stop lights timed for 35 mph are also timed for 70 mph.

bryan
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:
joescoolcustoms wrote:
MURZI wrote:
Don, I had one hayabusa muffler on my buggy and when I swapped out just the muffler for a stinger I saw no "seat of the pants" difference. My theory is that if they were designed for 1300cc screaming at 13,000 rpm they should be enough for 2300cc at 5000. My thoughts anyway....

I ran one on my Baja when I had the 1835 in it and did not see any difference either when switching to a stinger....


A 1300 cc spinning at 13,000 RPM is equal to a 2500 cc spinning at 6760 RPM.


What Joe said... Wink

Likewise: city stop lights timed for 35 mph are also timed for 70 mph.

bryan


Yes they are Wink JK
Love the bike muffler.....

brad
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donbarnes
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'm going to pick up a pair on Ebay... Where do you get the three bolt flange they bolt up to, or do you have to get a few inches of the bike pipes to go with the muffler?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am thinking about trying one too. I like the Manx Sidwinder, but would like to be different than most. MURZIs sounded good on YouTube.
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Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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Saint
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

donbarnes wrote:
Thanks, I'm going to pick up a pair on Ebay... Where do you get the three bolt flange they bolt up to, or do you have to get a few inches of the bike pipes to go with the muffler?


Sounds like you are lookin for something similar to this?
I just cut the pipes that came with the muffler, I think the larger three bolt flange from empi is the same size. Check with Murzi.

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didget69
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use a stub/flange of the bike header, but be aware that some of the newer bike headers are made from Stainless Steel - which can be a bear to properly weld to mild steel flanges/VW header pipes. Note as well that many/most of the bike mufflers use an o-ring gasket to seal the muffler to bike muffler flange.

bryan
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm always puzzled about the perceptions about stainless.. I have a 110volt Craftsman wire-feed welder that is at least 12-13 years old and use an Argon mix, and I weld stainless all the time with standard steel wire. I used to work parttime at a yacht factory and have a lot of stainless stuff from their scrap piles that I make stuff with. I can weld on stainless with that little mig and then buff the weld and you can't tell it wasn't welded with stainless wire, no problems with adhesion or strength either..Now drilling very many holes in 1/4inch stainless is another matter, I'm bad about burning up drill bits Rolling Eyes
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hayabusa flange is the same size as the LARGE empi three bolt flange. You can order the flanges separately from EMPI. Part # 3406
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Last edited by MURZI on Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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didget69
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

donbarnes wrote:
I'm always puzzled about the perceptions about stainless.. I have a 110volt Craftsman wire-feed welder that is at least 12-13 years old and use an Argon mix, and I weld stainless all the time with standard steel wire. I used to work parttime at a yacht factory and have a lot of stainless stuff from their scrap piles that I make stuff with. I can weld on stainless with that little mig and then buff the weld and you can't tell it wasn't welded with stainless wire, no problems with adhesion or strength either..Now drilling very many holes in 1/4inch stainless is another matter, I'm bad about burning up drill bits Rolling Eyes


... I missed adding a note to my last post stating -

"...awaiting rebuttals in 3... 2... 1..." - Laughing

There are no 'perceptions' about welding mild steel to stainless, just facts - like
> what MIG filler wire are you using 308? 3/309L (the correct wire choice for SS to mild steel) - or are you using Flux Core?
> what grade of Stainless are you welding on? 319? (it's a guess on bike headers)
> what shielding gas? 75/25? Argon? Tri-Mix? OR 'whatever was in the bottle' (usual response I hear...)

If you don't care about the rusting welds, then weld it with ER70S-6 wire, C-25 gas & Bob's your uncle. Want to keep the rust away? Use ER309L and C-25.

Or take it to a muffler shop & let 'John' melt the parts together...

bryan
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't really talking about your post Smile , more so just thinking out loud about a lot of posts I've seen on other forums about people horrified at the idea of welding stainless.. I use the 75/25 Argon mix and the ER70S-6 wire, always wanted to try some of the stainless wire, just never got around to it..

I just bought a pair of what they call the Hayabusa mid-pipes on Ebay for $40 with free shipping, they are the pieces that have the other end of the three bolt flange, but thanks for the info on the Empi one...
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Murzi or Saint that have those stock 99-07 Hayabusa mufflers- what is that outer case made from, looks like either a satin aluminum or stainless finish? I'll know in a few days I guess since I've bought 4 of them off Ebay now and a pair of the mid-pipes to get the stainless flanges, but just curious as to whether minor scuffs could be buffed out of them...
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a machined aluminum can with a satin clear coat.......
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