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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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Hit return before I posted the pics. Full post below.
Last edited by Brent on Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:53 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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supaninja wrote: |
Nice save on the pan, looks awesome dude. This whole build looks awesome. Thats going to be a very healthy motor. What are you doing for carbs and exhaust? |
Thanks. That pan is a later model that I welded some early seat rails into.
For the exhaust I have an OTT from ISP. I want to weld in a bung for a wideband. Whether or not I ever buy one is another story, they're pricey. Since I have the raw (non-ceramic coated) exhaust, I've been looking at coating it myself. There's a coating from Techline called Cilgen that air cures and is rated to about 2000 degrees.
Here's a couple shots of my carbs. They're NOS Italian 36 DCNF's I picked up on ebay awhile back. The guy that sold them to me was really cool, and a couple weeks later sent me some vintage Truehaft short manifolds (which Chico match ported to the heads).
So, I've contacted a bunch of DCNF gurus to work out the jetting and here's I'm going to start with. If anyone else has experience with these please let me know!
31mm choke tubes
4.5 aux venturis
52 idles
125 mains
200 airs
F24 emulsion tubes
I also modified the bowl vent. Since the bowl is sideways, I guess they tend to flood in corners. Someone else here had done a writeup of this same method of soldering brass tubing and raising the vents up above the bowl.
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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I'm going to keep my heater boxes, and the A1 muffler is in the way if I remember right. I don't know of any other non-stock exhaust than the OTT that will work with the heater boxes.
I talked to Chico about it and left it to him to work out the details of the build with still keeping the heat. The valves are stock size. |
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TommyBoyGomes Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2005 Posts: 1531 Location: L.A./Dublin, Irl
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:31 pm Post subject: |
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Nice find on the DCNF's and the shorty manifolds, those are tough to find. I have those same air-cleaners as well, but I couldn't find a base that would allow me to use the hex-style accelerator bar setup. Where'd you find those bases and are you using the hext accelerator assembly with it? _________________ 1969 Squareback, 1776cc
1990 Vanagon Multivan |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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TommyBoyGomes wrote: |
Nice find on the DCNF's and the shorty manifolds, those are tough to find. I have those same air-cleaners as well, but I couldn't find a base that would allow me to use the hex-style accelerator bar setup. Where'd you find those bases and are you using the hext accelerator assembly with it? |
The crossbar for the linkage is round and the bases came with it. It's made by Bugpack/Tayco (part 1551-15) and the only one I could find for a Type 3. There's a few places that sell it, I don't remember where I bought it from though. I also modified my left carb base by cutting and re-welding the mount tab so the crossbar would be straight across the engine instead of at an angle. I also had to get shorter spacers for the left side to keep the same geometry for the heim fittings and rod that pulls up on the shaft. Hopefully I can start building up my longblock soon and get some pictures up of how I'm going to do it. |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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Finished painting the pan today. It's still wet here, so it won't be this shiny. Only took pics of the bottom, but the top is done and looks nice.
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VWporscheGT3 Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2006 Posts: 2073 Location: Gardnerville, NV
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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your fasty is comming along , all the cleaning and body repair was easy to get done.... that hard part is Body work and getting it back together with a nothing what so ever budget ... i hope your build isnt pluaqed with that problem ... keep it commin! _________________ Schnell, SCHNELL!
I like being wrong, Because, it is another opportunity to learn. If you stop learning from your mistakes than what is the point?
If you have any questions about Forged ICON 4032 VW pistons just shoot me a line. |
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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I had no idea what I was getting into here. And already WAY over what I thought this would cost me. Fortunately almost all the body work is done, I had a local shop do all the body panels. I've just never learned body work, and am too busy right now. So I found a local guy who rents the booth at the same shop I had do the body work on the fenders, frunk, and decklid. He's coming out on Thurs to straighten out all the dents in the body. Then in early July I'll get it primed and painted (family vacation). The picklex20 seems to work well, no rust yet.
I've been collecting parts all along and have already cleaned up and painted many of them, so my goal here is to get the pan rolling and painted body back on in July. Then I can really start putting this back together.
Question: I'm going to disassemble the rear subframe starting tomorrow and get it ready to paint. Once I take the shocks off, am I not going to be able to get them back on until the engine is in? I'm a bit concerned taking it apart as it's all under tension. Any tips? |
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eguti66 Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2004 Posts: 260 Location: Stockton,CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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What type of sand blaster are you using? _________________
drscope wrote: |
Ummmm, if you can't find out where the hole is by feeling around, then FORGET about installing the light! |
66 beetle
65 karmann ghia
58 beetle
58 convertible beetle
64 11w standard
68 Squareback |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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Eastwood Dual Blaster. It has two tanks, one for regular media and another for soda. If I were to do it again I'd just get a single tank from Harbor Freight and use Black Diamond media. I've used the fine grit for just about everything I've blasted. The soda is too expensive and I haven't used it that much. The soda is better for cleaning stuff than stripping paint and grime.
And you need a big air compressor, mine puts out 10 cfm and can't keep up with the blaster. Wish I would have spent the extra couple hundred and gotten an Ingersoll Rand dual stage compressor instead of the Campbell Hausfeld. |
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eguti66 Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2004 Posts: 260 Location: Stockton,CA
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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did you notice any panel warp after blasting? _________________
drscope wrote: |
Ummmm, if you can't find out where the hole is by feeling around, then FORGET about installing the light! |
66 beetle
65 karmann ghia
58 beetle
58 convertible beetle
64 11w standard
68 Squareback |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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eguti66 wrote: |
did you notice any panel warp after blasting? |
No warping at all. I don't think those little blasters are powerful enough. Maybe it's just the big industrial types that will cause a panel to warp. |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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I've been cleaning and plating a bunch of fasteners with the tin-zinc setup from Eastwood. It's turning out nice. Tomorrow they'll get tumbled with some corn cob chunks from the pet store and turn out nice and shiny. The pieces on the right are done.
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vwfye Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2000 Posts: 7660
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Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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Fyi... the OTT exhaust will be fine with the valves in those heads. The 120 cam is a bit much for stock sized valves. _________________ 64 No'back Speedster "Pearl"
1980s Sand Dragster "The Plunger"
LME "Little Giant Killer 3" |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1613 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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Back from vacation and time for an update. I've been working on getting the subframe ready to paint so I can get this rolling. Had a bit of trouble getting the pivot bolts out. In the end I drilled a little hole in the factory dent that fits into the groove of the pivot bolt. I'll weld it shut and sandblast everything this weekend.
I've also been putting some sound proofing on the pan. I'm using Fatmat 80mil, much cheaper than some of the others and seems to be pretty good quality.
A couple before and after shots of the longblock with the full flow setup. Reused the same case and heads. It's set up the same as the picture Russ Wolfe posted of Jim Adney's engine. 010 rebuilt by Glenn. The badge was pretty tore up so I replaced it with a repop one. BTW, the rivets don't fit right and I had to get a little creative with some JB Weld.
I need to take the engine hanger to a machine shop and get the hole enlarged for the pump cover. I broke so many drill bits already, I'm just going to take it to a local shop with a mill. I did mount up the fan shroud and it just clears without having to grind any of the fins in back. Also had to grind the bottom corner of the fuel pump block off a little as it hit the bar for the thermostat flaps.
Transaxle was rebuilt by AA Transaxle (Daryl) with a 3.88 R/P. I painted it myself when I got it back with SEM Hot Rod Black. Also used that paint for all the tins.
I also noticed my hubs are different thicknesses. One has a fairly stripped hole anyway so just going to get some new ones. One rear wheel did stick out a little bit more than the other. Not sure if that would make much of a difference, maybe it was the excessive bondo.
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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OhHerrooo Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010 Posts: 1291 Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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stufenheck Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2004 Posts: 30 Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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