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Retrovan Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2011 Posts: 524 Location: Port Elisabeth - RSA
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Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:05 am Post subject: |
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HI,
Like your project to date, looks good.
Also busy with 68 Fastback, will be Meronella red, with slight pearl clear coat.
Have also fitted 2000cc type 4 motor, still need Weber twins to go on.
Not sure which would be best, as I have a hight problem, ....with the type 4 engine that is....
My project post here http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=20281
You fastback is looking GOOOOD
Keep up the nice work. _________________ 1968 Fastback Type 4 2 Lt. twin 34 ICT's (Red)
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc. twin 34 ICT's (Azur blue)
1975 Split Bus Type 4 1914cc. twin 34 ICT's (wh/aqua)
1972 Bay Panel-van with type 4 2 Lt. twin 34 ICT's (white)
2019 Beetle Flatbed Truck called MeFusco
1973 FT Hahn SP - Project 1776cc |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the comments and tip on the emulsion tubes for the DCNF's.
Not a big update here, but I sandblasted, primed, and painted the subframe with Masterseries. I started putting it back together yesterday. The trailing arms are laid out on the wrong sides in the picture, but it went together correct.
Installed NOS trailing arm rubber/cups and new rubber for the torsion assembly.
I had measured, marked, and written down the original stock dimensions for the spring plates. I went down 1 outer, which is probably all I can with 205/60's, I also had to do some 'tuning' moves on the passenger side to get the angles to match up. Checking, double checking and leveling all along. When I was done the bottom of the spring plate on both sides was just even with the bottom of the shelf on the subframe. Sound right? Would like to confirm.
I had my wife standing and bouncing on the spring plate to get it in place, but then she suggested the motorcycle strap. It worked really well to compress it about the 1/2" or so it needed and pound it in place using a wood block on the end of the torsion arm part of the spring plate.
It got a little scratched up from moving it around so much while starting to put it back together. I touched up the paint tonight and it's residing in the living room for a day or two to avoid all the body filler dust in the garage. I'll tighten up the spring plates, and do the axles and brakes next.
More pictures coming soon, probably this weekend, just about done with bodywork and putting the engine back together. Been taking pictures all along. Hopefully primer for the body on Saturday.
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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Still working on getting the subframe together. Here's a few shots of putting the rear brakes together, my first time doing this. I put in new bearings because on one side there was some serious damage to the inside of the bearing retainer and spacer that goes between the bearings. Those parts have been replaced. Don't want to do this again later. I used Mystic NGLI 2 grease. I got one of those torquemeister tools for the axle nut, what a cool tool.
I hope to get it done tomorrow and maybe get it bolted back up to the pan.
Lot's of bodywork getting done too. Pretty much all that's left is the rear apron and then epoxy prime (hopefully towards the end of next week).
*edit - forgot pics.
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vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Attention to deal! I love it. |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Vlad.
Ok, I put the other side back together and the push bar for the ebrake cable does not look right to me. See how the spring is pushed up by the bar on the passenger side, and on the driver side the spring fits into the dent.
I'm getting some mixed info regarding these bars. Found a thread that says they're all the same, but also found online stores that sell R and L sides (for bug) and ISP has 'spec. side' on their parts list which leads me to think I have 2 driver side spreader bars.
What's going on with with these? Thanks.
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Found my answer, it came up in 2004. Thanks Bob!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60546
I sent an email to Adney to see if he had one of the passenger side spreaders (that doesn't exist, ). He confirmed it's on there right, concave up on the passenger side.
Seems weird how VW made it like that. I guess the hump is probably just for strength. Relieved I don't have to take it apart though! |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:04 am Post subject: |
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I took a bunch of pics bolting everything to the longblock. Here's a few notes and LOT of pictures:
The hole for the timing plug was ripped up pretty back, so I welded in a patch and used the clear plastic plug. It's easy to pop out from the inside.
I had to grind a little off the fuel block off plate for flaps bar. Also replaced that rubber grommet for the bar support. I don't remember where I saw it, but I liked the idea of the notch in the side of the air flaps bar.
That's probably the last of the DDB alternators, been saving it for awhile.
The tin was painted with MS silver then SEM Hot Rod Black. The silver stuff is just MS silver. I had to trim both pieces around the manifolds just a little.
The Exhaust was ceramic coated black with Cilgen, heater boxes are ceramic too.
I didn't use the nylock nuts for the oil cooler as in the picture, just used regular nuts with blue loctite.
I like how Berg puts nuts on the needle valves so I did it too. Much easier to get at.
Spark plug wires are too short. I used the Bosch 09004 kit. I ordered some copper core wire and will just use the boots and ends from the Bosch wires. Also, I thought I ordered a blue coil, it's not blue though. Still a 12v Bosch and checks out with a meter so I guess it's ok.
Still need to add the orange ducting for the fresh air to heaterboxes, but need to get some clamps first.
Maybe do the break in next weekend.
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W1K1 Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004 Posts: 4919 Location: Southern AB
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:34 am Post subject: |
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Very nice !
one thing I am going to change when I pull my motor this winter is that coil location.
I have been tweaking on the carbs lately and that coil gets in the way of getting in beside the carb on the drivers side, and it gets warm too.
I am going to move mine to the bolt beside the breather tower. _________________ http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php
1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap |
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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19typethree67 Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007 Posts: 351 Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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^^^^^
Yeah, what he said. That is a sweet engine dude! |
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JSMskater Samba Grease Gorilla
Joined: February 01, 2006 Posts: 5362 Location: Murrieta California
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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WOW. I'd wish my engine looked like that!!
what sealer did you use between the case halves? looks pretty nice! _________________ 71 Squareback-FI -- 73 Bay (subaru powered)
TOOB Member #3
I make D-jet FI connectors |
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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ALLWAGONS Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2000 Posts: 4186 Location: Pasadena CA/DTLA soon China
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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That is amazing attention to detail. Awesome! _________________ I'd be UNSTOPPABLE if not for Law Enforcement and PHYSICS.
I recycle old cars and parts, other than when I rot, that's as Green as I am going to get.
Thanks to my Tesla driving neighbors, I feel more relaxed driving my SUBURBAN and old VW's.
NON INFLUENCER APPROVED |
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the comments! I'm pretty happy with how the engine has turned out. Getting excited to run it.
As for the case sealer, I don't know. The longblock was built by CPR. I do have some Permatex white sealer that I used on the full flow fittings that is almost identical if not the same. It comes in a small bottle with a built in brush. Got it at the local FLAPS.
So here's what got done today. First, a big thanks to my friend Lester for helping with all the bodywork and primer. We finally got the body in epoxy primer this evening and used SPI epoxy primer. I shot a lot of the underside and Lester did the rest; he uses Iwata paint guns, Wow! what a difference! The primer is still wet in the pics.
I also finished up the rear brakes, put on the rear 205's and bolted it up to the pan. The hard lines are a little longer than the original ones so I had to bend them in kind of an S shape. Now time to start on the front end.
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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W1K1 wrote: |
Very nice !
one thing I am going to change when I pull my motor this winter is that coil location.
I have been tweaking on the carbs lately and that coil gets in the way of getting in beside the carb on the drivers side, and it gets warm too.
I am going to move mine to the bolt beside the breather tower. |
That's a good idea, when I get my new copper wire I'll have enough to move the coil to the other side. |
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vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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super nice body and pan work. |
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Critter1 Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2004 Posts: 1575 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 8:56 am Post subject: |
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Very nice choice on the Ram-FLo air cleaners. Also like how you set up the linkage on the back (or front) side of the carbs. There's plenty of room for it back there. Makes for a nice clean set up!
Maybe I missed it... Is this a type-4 oil cooler? It looks nice & fat! Or maybe its been a while since I looked at my type-3 cooler. A type-4 cooler would definitely make for a nice mod..
_________________ Justin |
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supaninja Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 4020 Location: houston
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Critter1 Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2004 Posts: 1575 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:52 am Post subject: |
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supaninja wrote: |
thats way too small to be a t4 cooler, but it would be a sweet mod, just need to modify the tin and tap it for a oil pressure sender. |
Thats what I was thinking. Plenty of room for one too. _________________ Justin |
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