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Brent's 69 Fastback Build
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeti69 - I'll probably just use a ring terminal on the coupler bolt for the wire coming out of the column.

I don't have the wipers on my turn signal switch so there is no current path there. As I understand, it flows from the column, to the button through the adapter, then back through the brown wire in the column. I have the steering box to frame jumper piece.

Bobnotch wrote:
No Brent, it's not just a 67 and earlier deal. Both of my 71's still have them, as does my wife's 70. What you're looking for are the 36, 37, 38, 39, and 40 in the illustration. However, you're going to want the 68 and later bits, as the 67 and earlier pieces are different (holes are closer together). I don't have a part number handy for them, but there should be 1 for them. Keep in mind that 38 and 40 are on the back side of the dash (top side of the mounting lip), and should be "caged" by some tabs.


Thank you for the clarification. Seems I'm missing a few things. They were not there when I took it out. Too bad the diagrams for steering are so vague and mix-up all the differences between model years. Now to find those missing parts and put this thing together!

Update pics later today...
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
thats BS! the splines are not different. they probably were on 72 and 73 but 71 had the same spines as the earlier wheels.

I know because I went and investigated it in person and compared 71 wheels to the rest of the models.


Well, maybe OZ used the old parts, but the German built cars used 1 steering wheel (part number 311 415 651A (4/61 to 7/70) up to chassis number 310 2500 000) for cars up thru the end of the 70 model year, and then used 311 415 651D (8/70 to 7/71 (chassis numbers 311 2000 001 thru 311 2500 000)) for cars built in 71. The parts book definitely call out 2 different wheels (not counting the pigellaies, and the teaks for the 66 MY).
It's like you keep telling us, OZ had it's own rules, and things are different for the rest of the world.

Getting this back on track, Brent, I didn't see a part number for the rubber bits, or the tubes, but I did find one for the nut plate. It's the same as a bug, so that might help you find the rubber bits.
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Clatter wrote:
Unfortunately, a height that works well doesn't really look that low in the end...

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People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Mark Shutt
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brent, are the upper frame head clamp rubber mounts still available? mine are missing and not sure what alternative parts I could use Question this build really interests me as I'm at a similar stage with mine!

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Mark.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 36,37,38,39,40, & 1-41, but it is a narrower bolt pattern than the #43 I also have. Do you need the #43?
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Getting this back on track, Brent, I didn't see a part number for the rubber bits, or the tubes, but I did find one for the nut plate. It's the same as a bug, so that might help you find the rubber bits.


So I'm guessing parts 36-39 are the same for all years, and 40 was changed to 43 for later years. Part 43 has two built-in nuts in the middle which I think are the same spacing as 40. 43 mounts to the dash using bolts through the two outer tabs and isolates the column via the two inner/middle mount points. I think.

Mark Shutt wrote:
Hi Brent, are the upper frame head clamp rubber mounts still available? mine are missing and not sure what alternative parts I could use Question this build really interests me as I'm at a similar stage with mine!

Mark.


Put up some pictures. Very Happy

Those are not available new. There's lots of good used around though. I probably have a set from all the beams I've been through.
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
I have a 36,37,38,39,40, & 1-41, but it is a narrower bolt pattern than the #43 I also have. Do you need the #43?


I have 43, I just need 36-39. The spacing between the two inner 'nuts' on 43 is 60mm (2.36") which matches up with the slots on steering column housing.

So you're saying the spacing for 36-39 is NOT 60mm?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

50mm
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
50mm


Evil or Very Mad I asked Jim Adney, hopefully he has them.
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Mark Shutt
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
Put up some pictures. Very Happy

Those are not available new. There's lots of good used around though. I probably have a set from all the beams I've been through.


just started a thread on my build!

Thanks, Mark.
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flatblack12345
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice build Brent! didn't relize you had a build thread on here..

Just sent your breather box today, hopefully it works for ya!
Enjoy

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not a breather box, that's a work of art Shocked Shocked
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty snazzy where is that fitting on the body Brent?
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
Pretty snazzy where is that fitting on the body Brent?


It will go on the right side, up underneath the deck about where the stock outlet is for the carbs/FI intake is. I might have to make some kind of quick-release bracket. We'll see when it gets here.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 1/2 days, 2 bottles of contact cement, a can of 3M 90 adhesive, 144 paper clips, and several cold beverages later, the headliner is done!

For what the upholstery shops are charging, I opted to do it myself.

The shiny aluminum stuff is EZ-Cool. It has pretty good reviews over on the HAMB, it's super light, and really easy to work with. I had started cutting the felt padding from the leftover stuff from my seats, but it is a PITA to work with. So I just kept using it for all the post padding. I think it turned out nice.

The pictures pretty much go in order. I made up the windlace/pinch welting for about $20 of material I bought from McMaster-Carr. I wanted the two-tone like the original.

Also got most everything stuffed under the dash, but it's rainy and dark today so I'll get some pictures this weekend.

Here goes (there's a lot).

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooooh aaaaah nice job Very Happy

The easy cool does a good job of keeping things cool inside.
It can be 90 degrees outside on the roof and not even warm to the touch on the inside of mine. The weight for a whole roll is next to nothing VS the 20 lbs of dynamat I added to my bug.

plus if you lay on your back and shine a light at the roof it looks like twinkling stars through the holes in the headliner Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to have to give that EZ Cool a try, the price is right. That pinch weld looks perfect, I am going to have to get with you when the time comes to do my headliner.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Applause
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
2 1/2 days, 2 bottles of contact cement, a can of 3M 90 adhesive, 144 paper clips, and several cold beverages later, the headliner is done!

For what the upholstery shops are charging, I opted to do it myself.

The shiny aluminum stuff is EZ-Cool. It has pretty good reviews over on the HAMB, it's super light, and really easy to work with. I had started cutting the felt padding from the leftover stuff from my seats, but it is a PITA to work with. So I just kept using it for all the post padding. I think it turned out nice.

The pictures pretty much go in order. I made up the windlace/pinch welting for about $20 of material I bought from McMaster-Carr. I wanted the two-tone like the original.

Also got most everything stuffed under the dash, but it's rainy and dark today so I'll get some pictures this weekend.

Here goes (there's a lot).

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Brent- if you're happy with it, fine, and I'm not really trying to be a prick- but-

It shouldn't bow inward (down) in the middle like that. The reason it is doing that is the sound deadener on the roof. The key is to slice a groove through the deadener for the headliner bow to sit up in. This way, you can have your cake & eat it too, as the sound deadener in the roof makes quite the difference.

Other than that, it looks like a good solid installation. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your my hero brent , you motivate me Laughing
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