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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
Brent- if you're happy with it, fine, and I'm not really trying to be a prick- but-

It shouldn't bow inward (down) in the middle like that. The reason it is doing that is the sound deadener on the roof. The key is to slice a groove through the deadener for the headliner bow to sit up in. This way, you can have your cake & eat it too, as the sound deadener in the roof makes quite the difference.

Other than that, it looks like a good solid installation. Very Happy


Believe me, I know... Clatter got an earful the other day about the bowing downward.

It's not the insulation though. That stuff is only 3/16" thick, so we're looking at maybe 1/4" total with the layer of Dynamat. The bows are not touching the insulation.

To start, the headliner is TMI. It's just ok. The sleeves for the bows were not centered and I had to trim a little on the inside to get it close. Then when I pulled it tight, they would bunch up at the end of the bows. More trimming. It's pulled pretty tight too which I think is contributing. There's just not enough material to let it flatten out better.

So, with the help of a couple hair dryers, I've been carefully 'massaging' it to help it relax. It's looking better already, but I want to wait until the back windows are in before I do more.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luckily I had the old headliner for reference and my wife sews otherwise the TMI headliner was not the same as what came out of mine either. There was trimming involved.

I think it will relax some once it sits in the sun..... at a car show or on a trailer to a car show Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent, the Kelley Park show is just a weekend away. Razz
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is TMI all that's available now? What about Sewfine?
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 - You're write up helped a lot. I think it will relax some too. It's cold here.

I'm planning on classic in June. Still have a lot to do though. I wish I could go to the Invasion, but I have to be in LA early on the 25th.

Sewfine are available too. I was back and forth between the two. But I don't like Sewfine door panels. If I could do it again, maybe I'd go Sewfine and just get the door panels from TMI. Maybe next time. Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
Is TMI all that's available now? What about Sewfine?


sewfine is more expensive and is more into the crazy cal-look fabrics and design patterns.


I got their most recent catalog in the mail and it was like looking at interiors for a 50's diner. *barf*
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I'm not really trying to be a prick- but-


Imagine if he tried! Very Happy

The headliner sagging like that kind of gave me the hump seeing it.
Sorry, bro.
I know you weren't ready to hear it,
So i didn't say:
"Whoa, get that fucker back apart and fixed, before you get too far along, and it's a bunch of work to re-do".

I shoulda been more of a Tram, I guess...

FWIW,
My experience with the Sewfine OG headliners was that their OG re-pop materials, especially their pinpoint headliner, were thick and plush.
Now, not super plush like their tweed 80s Cal-look stuff you always see,
But more like what the OG stuff would have been, when it was fresh and supple and new.

The TMI stuff that Brent has here actually looks just like the Sewfine stuff i remember from back in the day.
That being said, it is heavy.
Weighs a lot, really.

The headliner bows, if they are some aftermarket ones, can be smaller/weaker than OG.
If they are OG, then they can be weak and not as 'springy' (tempered?) as they once were.
Also, my car had an afromarket headliner, and the ends of the bows had plastic 'caps' where the bow ends meet the body.
OG was the metal spring type ends...
Betcha that this will shorten the effective length of the bows, and cause them to bow less.

There HAS to be a trick or three that the pros use to keep the sagging from happening.
Thicker bows would be killer...

Step away from the headliner for a while.
Don't do anything that would make more work to fix it.

Put the door panels in
the rear seat
fenders
bumpers
wiring
Carpet
DOORS?


Way too often, i get set on finishing something,
and the blinders come on,
and i fusk it up in my drive to get it done...

Like the column, there will be these things that go together, but, then get hung up on stuff you didn't account for.

Get some of those other sub-jobs set up, and along, until they hang you up on something.

The whole car will come together quicker (and better) that way.

Headliners suck and blow.
Most people pay a pro.

Other than the sag factor, it's perfect.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

15 min with the hairdryer. The first two bows are essentially flat, the third one needs a little more work. It will come out fine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's already looking a bunch better!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
Tram wrote:
Brent- if you're happy with it, fine, and I'm not really trying to be a prick- but-

It shouldn't bow inward (down) in the middle like that. The reason it is doing that is the sound deadener on the roof. The key is to slice a groove through the deadener for the headliner bow to sit up in. This way, you can have your cake & eat it too, as the sound deadener in the roof makes quite the difference.

Other than that, it looks like a good solid installation. Very Happy


Believe me, I know... Clatter got an earful the other day about the bowing downward.

It's not the insulation though. That stuff is only 3/16" thick, so we're looking at maybe 1/4" total with the layer of Dynamat. The bows are not touching the insulation.

To start, the headliner is TMI. It's just ok. The sleeves for the bows were not centered and I had to trim a little on the inside to get it close. Then when I pulled it tight, they would bunch up at the end of the bows. More trimming. It's pulled pretty tight too which I think is contributing. There's just not enough material to let it flatten out better.

So, with the help of a couple hair dryers, I've been carefully 'massaging' it to help it relax. It's looking better already, but I want to wait until the back windows are in before I do more.


Did I mention I hate doing headliners. Wink Looks pretty damn nice. A little heat will help it settle into place. Did your bow ends have plastic tips? Just asking, because Sue's Fastback did. Put the rear windows in, then you can warm it up, and not worry about the glue coming loose.
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Brent
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Brent wrote:
Tram wrote:
Brent- if you're happy with it, fine, and I'm not really trying to be a prick- but-

It shouldn't bow inward (down) in the middle like that. The reason it is doing that is the sound deadener on the roof. The key is to slice a groove through the deadener for the headliner bow to sit up in. This way, you can have your cake & eat it too, as the sound deadener in the roof makes quite the difference.

Other than that, it looks like a good solid installation. Very Happy


Believe me, I know... Clatter got an earful the other day about the bowing downward.

It's not the insulation though. That stuff is only 3/16" thick, so we're looking at maybe 1/4" total with the layer of Dynamat. The bows are not touching the insulation.

To start, the headliner is TMI. It's just ok. The sleeves for the bows were not centered and I had to trim a little on the inside to get it close. Then when I pulled it tight, they would bunch up at the end of the bows. More trimming. It's pulled pretty tight too which I think is contributing. There's just not enough material to let it flatten out better.

So, with the help of a couple hair dryers, I've been carefully 'massaging' it to help it relax. It's looking better already, but I want to wait until the back windows are in before I do more.


Did I mention I hate doing headliners. Wink Looks pretty damn nice. A little heat will help it settle into place. Did your bow ends have plastic tips? Just asking, because Sue's Fastback did. Put the rear windows in, then you can warm it up, and not worry about the glue coming loose.


When I took the bows out, some of them had plastic ends. Others were cracked and falling apart as it was the original headliner. I bought a new set of the ends from WCM for a couple bucks and replaced them all. I managed to get the rear window in tonight. Tomorrow will be the dreaded pop-outs, ugh!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think for a job done by yourself it looks super nice!
I had similar experience with the new end pieces I bought, they appeared a tad bit shorter then the og end pieces when attached to the bows, this made the bows loose a little tension. And a 1/2 inch missing in overall length makes a world of difference in bow tension! So I only replaced the few cracked ones and tried to re-use as much of the og grey end caps.
I guess it is as allways - the repop stuff is a little different then the og - which ALLWAYS causes trouble, a lesson everybody here learns - or learned the hard way sooner or later... Crying or Very sad
I had a pro in my garage who did a great job on my headliner - I would never be able to gain a result as good as yours by myself!
I have to say that you a really a jack of all trades, Brent. Zinc plating in-house, polishing + de-burring in house, all your welding skills (I have to look for your thread to modify a SA rear end to accomodate the IRS tabs!) Thumps up! Looking forward to see your Fasty all done.
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Brent
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeti69 -- Thanks! The ends I used were exactly the same length as the original grey ones. I replaced them all, as just about all of them were broken.

Let me try and explain my point of view on stuff like this. Yes, I could have paid a shop $500 to install it with me providing the material. Plus another $100 to tow it back and forth. That's a $700 headliner!

There's two local shops, one was in a way NOT recommended by the body shop. So, I called the other guy and he went to the body shop to look at my car. A week later he hadn't called me back so I actually went to his shop. I just didn't get the warm fuzzy talking to him. I printed out a bunch of pictures of BerT3's install to show exactly what shape and where the padding needed to be. I told him that I could make them myself, he didn't like that idea. I just got the feeling, that I'd never know if it would be done to my standards.

Even though it's not perfect, there's some reward in doing stuff yourself rather than paying someone else to do it. I think a lot of us here share that perspective. The whole reason we do it is that feeling of accomplishment and taking pride in our own work.

Ok, off the soapbox now.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Back on the steering column issue.

First, Adney emailed me last night and told me that the rubber pieces (36-39) were for 61-67's. So I've been digging through my books and only see those parts in one diagram for an early car. Also an image of how the mount (43) is mounted; it's not a Type 3, but same part. I'm not saying you're wrong, Bob, but I'm getting conflicting information here.

Can someone out there with a 68 or 69 take a look how their column is mounted? Maybe take a photo?

Here's the images I'm talking about:

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
Even though it's not perfect, there's some reward in doing stuff yourself rather than paying someone else to do it. I think a lot of us here share that perspective. The whole reason we do it is that feeling of accomplishment and taking pride in our own work.


exactly this, I would rather have a 99% decent standard of work and be proud to stand by my car and say "I did that" and still get loads of nice comments on your car, makes it all worth the while..
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I'll admit it, I was wrong. I went out (in the rain), and looked at my wife's car. It doesn't have the rubber insulation like I thought it did. So Jim's right (as usual). I even spent time looking thru the different parts books I have here, and they all seemed to agree that there's no rubber spacer used on the 68 and later cars. That leads me to believe that the "bearing" you were talking about before needs to be insulated electrically, for everything to work like Tram said. These VW horn set ups are all by themselves too, which makes finding info a lot harder. Sorry I led you down the wrong path, but it might help others once you find out what IS needed to get it to work right. Wink

I was looking for a link to Bob Hoover's surmons (maybe someone has a link they can supply), as he did a very detailed write up on horns and columns, but I can't find a link to it (thought I had it saved on this computer, but I guess not). I did find this one though, and it might be of some help.
http://www.type2.com/library/electris/sterhor1.htm
I realise this is for a bus, but it is for the correct year VW, which should be similar (VW kept things similar, until they did a major change).

And I agree with this statement, "Even though it's not perfect, there's some reward in doing stuff yourself rather than paying someone else to do it. I think a lot of us here share that perspective. The whole reason we do it is that feeling of accomplishment and taking pride in our own work." That and trying to find someone (or someplace) that's competent to do the job. It seems like there are some out there that just don't get it. Surprised Sure, it might be "an old VW", but that doesn't mean it can't look good, and have the job done correctly. For what you saved doing it yourself, you could actually buy another headliner, and try it again. Razz
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Tram wrote:
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya, nothing worse than taking your car for to have something done,
and then having it turn out like shit.

Like the headliner in my oval.

or the windshield in my bus,
or the tints,
or...

Sucks to be in the position where you pick up your car,
it looks like total shit.
the guy is there all proud of his work, and expecting to get paid,
and you have to deal with it...
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the confirmation Bob. Dave stopped by with his 69 yesterday and I took a look at his too. -- Dave, I have a horn for you. Come get it. Very Happy --

In other news... I don't think my dash has been installed for probably 10 years. I know the PO had it for 6, without it installed.

Let's just say, it seems to have shrunk a little. I got it on, but the two tabs on either end by the A-pillars ripped. And my big crack opened back up. Evil or Very Mad

I have a fix that worked and is not too noticeable. I cut a small piece of sheet metal for the ends and sandwiched the tabs, drilled a new hole in the metal, painted it black to match, and screwed it in. So now there's some reinforcement along for the tab. I didn't want to take it all out again and risk another crack, so that's why I did it this way. I'm also making a reinforcement strip for the back side of the crack and will fill it an paint to match. Yes, I cleaned up the overspray in the picture. Here's a shot.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,
don't get me wrong, I totally agree with what Brent wrote and I think exactly the same. Well, besides the paint and the headliner I did everything by myself on my Volksback project! Mechanical-wise I am willing and able to do almost any job on any car, but when it comes to the stuff which anybody can directly see and judge as a good or a bad job - like headliner and paint - I stay with the pro's - as I hate trying things on my own just to see I messed things up and have to ask the pro then - after I already spend way to much time and money in the first place...
When I started the headliner installation I discovered some edges which I had no clue how to come across. A friend of mine provided the contact of a real nice guy which is a pro on this job and he did the installation with me in 3,5 hours after his daily job, in my garage and I paid him ~ 130USD for that - which is half the price I paid for the headliner alone (~250 USD) so, a well spend ammount with a perfect result.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent wrote:
Thanks for the confirmation Bob. Dave stopped by with his 69 yesterday and I took a look at his too. -- Dave, I have a horn for you. Come get it. Very Happy --

In other news... I don't think my dash has been installed for probably 10 years. I know the PO had it for 6, without it installed.

Let's just say, it seems to have shrunk a little. I got it on, but the two tabs on either end by the A-pillars ripped. And my big crack opened back up. Evil or Very Mad

I have a fix that worked and is not too noticeable. I cut a small piece of sheet metal for the ends and sandwiched the tabs, drilled a new hole in the metal, painted it black to match, and screwed it in. So now there's some reinforcement along for the tab. I didn't want to take it all out again and risk another crack, so that's why I did it this way. I'm also making a reinforcement strip for the back side of the crack and will fill it an paint to match. Yes, I cleaned up the overspray in the picture. Here's a shot.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Kind of reminds me of when I installed that crappy aftermarket unit in my Notch. I ended up cutting the strips out of a late Square, and screwed them to the steel dash, just to hold the front of the pad in place. It's not really noticeable, unless you know where to look, or know it shouldn't have that metal strip. Rolling Eyes
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64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little woodworking today. I picked up a sheet of this 1/8" melamine for $10 from Home Depot. This picture is weird, must be the camera angle or something?? They are the exact same size, I used the old one as a template for the new.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have a roll of really thin weatherstrip that I planned on using for the gas tank. Thought it would work well along the top edge here as well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


More insulation.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then I finished up the rear tray area. I put a 50# bag of blasting soda on the vinyl as the new one was flat. Hopefully after a week or so it will fit in.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Dash is in! That was a real pain.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also just finished up mounting the steering column, but didn't take pictures of that yet. Eventually, I'm going to have to finish the wiring. Bah,.
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