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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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 Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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| vlad01 wrote: |
is it from the UK? Apparently they have all the best rust treatment/protection because of their environment.
on other thoughts I plan to cut (nicely with a hole press) access holes strategically placed throughout the body to allow internal protection to be sprayed inside then plug it with either GM or ford body plugs.
Its what I noticed on most modern cars. |
I wouldn't do it in the heater channels though, as the heat will melt those plastic plugs. However, IF you're never going to use any heat in them, then go ahead a drill and plastic plug them.
The heater tubes were primed at the factory, when the car body got dipped in a vat. I'm not sure how they did it in OZ, since those cars were CKDs (some parts were probably dipped in Germany, before assembly in OZ), and nobody has posted pics inside the OZ factory, to show how they were built. 
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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| supaninja wrote: |
| I was thinking about doing exactly that for my heater channels and inside the A, B, and C pillars and of course inside the shift tunnel. Shouls really seal up the car. |
IMO, I don't like the idea of drilling extra holes. With a 'complete' disassembly, there's a lot of access points to get that nozzle in. I used about half a can, I'm sure there was more I could have done but then I started with an almost rust free body. Also, the spray in the tunnel was a different product from Eastwood. Kind of waxy.
I need to get off my butt today and follow Bob's advice...
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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Question here.
Getting the seats apart. I need to press out the 2 (or 4?) roll pins to get the back off? And the pin in the end of the cable?
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vlad01
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Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 2152
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| vlad01 wrote: |
is it from the UK? Apparently they have all the best rust treatment/protection because of their environment.
on other thoughts I plan to cut (nicely with a hole press) access holes strategically placed throughout the body to allow internal protection to be sprayed inside then plug it with either GM or ford body plugs.
Its what I noticed on most modern cars. |
I wouldn't do it in the heater channels though, as the heat will melt those plastic plugs. However, IF you're never going to use any heat in them, then go ahead a drill and plastic plug them.
The heater tubes were primed at the factory, when the car body got dipped in a vat. I'm not sure how they did it in OZ, since those cars were CKDs (some parts were probably dipped in Germany, before assembly in OZ), and nobody has posted pics inside the OZ factory, to show how they were built. |
they are not plastic. its rubber. besides the heater are going to be a heater core powered by suby so it only reach 70-90oC ulike the incinerating temps of the vw heater boxes. 
as for whats inside the ausse type 3s? black stuff  |
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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Been working on the seats, getting there. It's a lot of work to redo them, more than I thought.
Also, I have the parts from Jegs to weld in my breather to exhaust fittings. I'll put up the pics of that later. And I'll now have a wideband bung.
Here's some pics of this weeks body work. They fixed the right front fender at the top where it wasn't lining up. Weld for the gas flap cracked so it was redone. My fault there, welding thin metal is really an art.
Rear fenders are bolted up and blocked. They fit pretty good and line up right. He told me they buckled a little on the top, about a third of the way back. On both sides. You can see where it's fixed on the left one where the filler is. I seem to remember my old fender having a bit of a buckle there too...
The apron will probably just get the smoothed out treatment. The previous poor body work on it left a bunch of pointy tap marks all over the place, so the indentations will never look right.
Doors, decklid and frunklid next!
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IAMIROY
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Joined: September 27, 2011
Posts: 290
Location: Palmdale, CA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Nice! Getting closer. |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 10695
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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| Brent wrote: |
Question here.
Getting the seats apart. I need to press out the 2 (or 4?) roll pins to get the back off? And the pin in the end of the cable? |
Don't know IF you've gotten them apart, but yes, there's 2 roll pins per seat that have to come out to get the seat back off/seperated. One of them is in the adjuster handle, and the other has the plastic cap. The pins go thru both though.
If you want, there are a couple more you can remove if you want, but you don't really need to remove them. They just hold the seat adjusting blocks that Vlad's been whinning about. Note, these are under the seat base, but can stay in place if you don't want to mess with them.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Brent wrote: |
Question here.
Getting the seats apart. I need to press out the 2 (or 4?) roll pins to get the back off? And the pin in the end of the cable? |
Don't know IF you've gotten them apart, but yes, there's 2 roll pins per seat that have to come out to get the seat back off/seperated. One of them is in the adjuster handle, and the other has the plastic cap. The pins go thru both though.
If you want, there are a couple more you can remove if you want, but you don't really need to remove them. They just hold the seat adjusting blocks that Vlad's been whinning about. Note, these are under the seat base, but can stay in place if you don't want to mess with them. |
I did manage to get them apart. The Bentley was rather vague on that one, remove seat back. I only took out the two outer pins and managed to get them apart. I thought about repainting the bases, but skipped it. I just power washed and scrubbed all the old grime off. No broken springs! I seem to have seats from two different cars as the shape of the headrest area of the frame is different. The other thing was that the little plastic bushings were shot. I modified some from the hardware store that should last a long time. Not quite done but here are some progress pics.
Before.
JH Benecke?
Big dent that I pounded out.
Different frames.
Thick vinyl against the springs, ragpad/sisel/jute, then foam, then another layer of the ragpad (no pic), then covered.
The lever spring was broken.
Stock bushing, as it came from hardware store, modified. I had to open up the hole just a little to get it to fit.
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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I finished the breather to exhaust vent today. Here she is. I'm still going to vent the right valve cover and fuel pump blockoff to a custom breather box. Then fresh air will get sucked in through a filter on the box. It doesn't draw a really strong vacuum as the valve regulates it, I had it rev'd up pretty good with my thumb over the end to check. But it's definitely enough to suck out the oil vapor. And it doubles as a port for a wideband.
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supaninja
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Location: houston
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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Brent
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Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Brent wrote: |
Different frames.
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Yup, you have a 68 to 70, and a 71-72 styles there. The narrow one is the 71-72 style, which is incorrect for your car. |
As far as I can tell the bases are the same. The foam for the headrests have the same shape, they are the same width and height. Only the inside of the foam where the frame fits is different, they are made from different molds. I think they'll look exactly the same when I cover the other one. Please let me know if I'm in for trouble and need to find a different seat. I really only care that they look the same in the end.
Edit - sorry I didn't read your post carefully. Doh.
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
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Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| I'd hunt up another "wide" headrest style seat back, IF you want them to look the same when you're done. You should be able to find one pretty easily, since you're in NorCal. |
FIFY. Seattle is really home, we're here just temporarily for a few years.
Just to clarify here. The wide one is covered already. Here's the headrest foam for the narrow one. Looks like the exact same shape to me. ???
Here they are up against each other.
My wife just loves that I'm making a storage area of the dining room.
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:09 am Post subject: |
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| Brent wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| I'd hunt up another "wide" headrest style seat back, IF you want them to look the same when you're done. You should be able to find one pretty easily, since you're in NorCal. |
FIFY. Seattle is really home, we're here just temporarily for a few years.
Just to clarify here. The wide one is covered already. Here's the headrest foam for the narrow one. Looks like the exact same shape to me. ???
Here they are up against each other.
My wife just loves that I'm making a storage area of the dining room. |
Sorry about that.  I didn't know where Seaside California was, so I took a guess. But you're right, both head rests do look a like, so go ahead and use them both. Once you get the cover on, that'll tell the real story though. You might need to add a little padding to it, or you might not. That right seat back must have been from a late 70, with the newer 71 style frame. 
You're not the first 1 to take over part of the house to do car work (remember Jason rebuilding his bus engine in the kitchen), and you won't be the last person to do it either. Sometimes we do what we have to do. Just don't use the dishwasher for engine parts.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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I need some help sorting out my steering column. Going through all my parts and seem to have some missing. Not quite sure as the diagram might not be right for my car.
P/N 32, locking shell? I don't have that.
*Edit* Are these the two pieces pressed onto the shaft?
P/N 45/46/47. Didn't have those in my column either.
What I do have:
bearing, 44
one circlip, 43
one half-moon shaped clip, 33 (I think)
spring washer and nut, 66 and 67
turn signal lever assembly
Seems like 69 is between these two???
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BerT3 
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Joined: August 18, 2002
Posts: 1471
Location: Antwerp
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| Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Brent wrote: |
I need some help sorting out my steering column. Going through all my parts and seem to have some missing. Not quite sure as the diagram might not be right for my car.
P/N 32, locking shell? I don't have that.
*Edit* Are these the two pieces pressed onto the shaft?
Yes !
P/N 45/46/47. Didn't have those in my column either.
What I do have:
bearing, 44
one circlip, 43
one half-moon shaped clip, 33 (I think)
spring washer and nut, 66 and 67
turn signal lever assembly
Seems like 69 is between these two???
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 10695
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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| BerT3 wrote: |
| Brent wrote: |
I need some help sorting out my steering column. Going through all my parts and seem to have some missing. Not quite sure as the diagram might not be right for my car.
P/N 32, locking shell? I don't have that.
*Edit* Are these the two pieces pressed onto the shaft?
Yes !
P/N 45/46/47. Didn't have those in my column either.
What I do have:
bearing, 44
one circlip, 43
one half-moon shaped clip, 33 (I think)
spring washer and nut, 66 and 67
turn signal lever assembly
Seems like 69 is between these two???
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Yes, like BerT3 said, 32 is attached to the steering shaft.
Part numbers 45, 46, & 47 are used up to and including the 67 model year. After that it changed to the lower view style, so not having them is correct. You probably don't have 63,64, or 65 either, right? Those parts were used from 71 to 73.
I looked thru both Bentley's, and neither one showed anything dealing with the column head.  However, Russ's site gave a little clearer view, versus's ISP's site.
http://classicvw.org/gallery2/v/partsbook/Parts+Book/page+49.jpg.html
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1032
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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| Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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So 69 steering columns are not either of those. I pulled out my old steering wheel and it has the later style canceling ring as well, so yes I do have 63/64/65. I'm 99% that I have everything, just need to finish painting the steering column.
Anyway, I stopped by the shop today. Everything is back on, doors, fenders, lids. He was showing me a couple fitment issues along the fenders. Note that it was all bolted up with no beading. The right rear fender seemed like it was too far back, like it needed to come forward toward the edge of the door just a bit. Front fenders were pretty close, just a little off. So I came home and dug out the remnants of my old beading and took it to them. Hopefully things will line up a little better with that extra little bit from the thickness of the fender beading. Anyone else experienced this?
Another note. One of my door hinges is broke at a spot weld on the inside. There's also a crack coming down an inch or two from it. The only way to get at it is to cut a hole in the outside of the door, weld it up, then rework the door. I called Anthony and I'm just going to replace that door, it will be cheaper than the labor to fix it right. At least we're taking care of it now.
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 10695
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Brent wrote: |
So 69 steering columns are not either of those. I pulled out my old steering wheel and it has the later style canceling ring as well, so yes I do have 63/64/65. I'm 99% that I have everything, just need to finish painting the steering column.
Anyway, I stopped by the shop today. Everything is back on, doors, fenders, lids. He was showing me a couple fitment issues along the fenders. Note that it was all bolted up with no beading. The right rear fender seemed like it was too far back, like it needed to come forward toward the edge of the door just a bit. Front fenders were pretty close, just a little off. So I came home and dug out the remnants of my old beading and took it to them. Hopefully things will line up a little better with that extra little bit from the thickness of the fender beading. Anyone else experienced this?
Another note. One of my door hinges is broke at a spot weld on the inside. There's also a crack coming down an inch or two from it. The only way to get at it is to cut a hole in the outside of the door, weld it up, then rework the door. I called Anthony and I'm just going to replace that door, it will be cheaper than the labor to fix it right. At least we're taking care of it now. |
Judging from the ISP pic, yours doesn't have the wire like the later cars. Also not really shown, is that the canceling ring on the 71 and later columns is the brass ring for the horn. But I believe you're correct in that the 69 falls into it's own set up (68 to 70), and that's not shown anywhere.
I can't say I've run into that issue, but you almost have to put the car together, and adjust everything at the final assembly. I only say that, because you'll have the beading in place, ALL of the fender screws and rubber washers, and the parts will change slightly without all of the fasteners in place. That's why I normally bolt everything up and then do the final body tweeking before paint. It doesn't change a lot, but it does change some.
At least they found the problem with the door, before they shot it with paint. It might set you back a week or so, but it'll save you time and materials in the long run. It's a good shop that catches little things like that. 
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120 |
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