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Beam disassembly / reassembly
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the new lower grease seals as compared to the originals.

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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the new lower grease seals in front of the originals.

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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
Here is one of the original inner bushings.

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Max


Did you replace the inner bushings? (The brownish red Bakelite part)

Where did you find the grease seals?
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not equipped to do the reaming, so I had a local ACVW shop replace the inner bushings.

The new bushings are these white items from ISP West. Pictured are the outers I did not use, but the inners are similar.

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The grease seals also came from ISP.

Max
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back to the upper arm question ... having followed Bentley it seems to me that those o-rings are now acting as thrust bearings, preventing axial movement of the upper trailing arms.

It looks and reads like it's supposed to be like that. But it does seem strange to me.

Here's a before and after:
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mxracer
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max,

Those o-rings are "thrust rings" that cushion axial play. If you look at the first paragraph in section 8.1, Chapter 7 of the Bentley is speaks specifically to them and they are the main reason for checking end play every 6K miles.

If you checked/adjusted the drivers side to make sure the retaining bolt was in the indent and is holding fast then followed the procedure in the Bentley you should be good. I just went thru my front end a while ago (didn't go as far as you though) I had similar thoughts (if I'm understanding your question right). Once I adjusted it felt tight with me rotating the trailing arm but once on the ground and the suspension "worked" a couple of times it was apparent it was right.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect. Thanks!

Max
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
Where did you find the grease seals?


I'd recommend trying to find VW OEM seals like the one's Max is using. The aftermarket ones don't have the metal ring inside that keeps them rigid at the base.

I found these:
http://bugcity.com/shop/shop.htm?pquery=131405129
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw on T3D site they now have beam needle bearings and bushings, but they are not listed in their catalog, i'm going to email them.

here's an interesting blog http://vw-type-3.blogspot.com/2007_04_01_archive.html

scroll down a bit
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I got it all back together. No more clunky front end.

I also got those GR-2 KYBs out of there and put on some Cofap oil shocks.

What a difference. The ride is much better.

She do need an alignment though. Wink

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, to re-cap...

You re-used the needle-rollers.

The ISP kit includes bushes to replace the rollers,
But you chose not to do that.

Randy Bowen used the inner bushes from the ISP kit.
He pressed (drove?) out the old inners,
and pushed in the new ones to the correct depth.

Then reamed them to the correct size...

Correct?

Just checking to see exactly how it went.

Did you get a good feel for the play, and/or freedom of movement before and after?

Dag, I'm about to go all the way out to Colorado to get this done!
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct all the way. Cool

I also replaced the steering box with one from a 69. It felt smoother and adjusted up nice.

The amount of play in the beam seemed like quite a bit before tear-down. I could both feel and hear it when going over bumps. When I got the beam off the car I could reproduce the clunking sound by bumping the trailing arm with the heal of my hand.

The lower left arm was pretty chewed up as you can see in the picture. Luckily I had a nice one from the same 69 that donated the steering box.

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I brought Randy the stripped beam and the best of the trailing links I had. Randy sourced the bushing and seal kits from ISP and did the hard work on the beam. He wound up moving the lower ball joint from the torn-up lower left to the good one and giving me back the re-fit beam and 4 good trailing links to reassemble.

Oh yeah. I hadn't been able to get the upper shock bolts out of the beam. Randy took care of that too. Said he had that thing cherry red with the torch. Laughing

So there's some minor work to do with the rear spring plates and then it's off to Rex Tire.

I'm pretty happy with it at this point. Cool

Max
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You bought a *kit* from ISP West? Do you have a link? I searched their site and found the individual parts but no *kit*. Looks like they're out of stock on one of the bushings right now.

I'm going to build up a front end for my pan off resto and am interested in this process. Maybe I'll send my front end out West...

Thanks in advance!
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy sourced the parts from ISP. If they aren't a "kit" then they were available individually.

Bit I'm pretty sure he used the telephone, not the web-site. Wink

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got an email back from t3d:

We can supply a kit that includes the following:

"Upper bushes inner and outer made in Delrin
Lower outer needle roller bearings

The kit price is £145"

just another option for parts.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am more interested in the seal then anything else, not that my seals are bad but would be nice to change them while I clean it all up and overhaul the steering and spindle components.

Should I try ISP for NOS seals? late model of course. Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Upper bushes inner and outer made in Delrin
Lower outer needle roller bearings


OK, now I'm good and confused...
Aren't there inner bushings on all four trailing arms?

Inners - bushings
Outers - rollers
Both top and bottom.

People are making bushes for the top outers, because they are rare.

The outer bottom rollers are Beetle items, so easier to get...

Right???

Is there a reason why T3D is not selling lower inner bushings?
ISP sold four inners, right?

???
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, there are four inners and four outers.

All the outer bearings were originally rollers on my 68 and 69 beams.

Max
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
Quote:
Upper bushes inner and outer made in Delrin
Lower outer needle roller bearings


OK, now I'm good and confused...
Aren't there inner bushings on all four trailing arms?

Inners - bushings
Outers - rollers
Both top and bottom.

People are making bushes for the top outers, because they are rare.

The outer bottom rollers are Beetle items, so easier to get...

Right???

Is there a reason why T3D is not selling lower inner bushings?
ISP sold four inners, right?

???


The bulk of the 'beating' that a T3 front end takes is on the lower bearings...those are normally pretty worn out.

I think I'm going to replace all four top and the two inner with Delrin and replace the lowers with rollers. Seam seal the beam, clean it up and put it back together with new parts.

Thanks for the information, Max...I've been out of this game for a long time and things have definitely changed.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
Max Welton wrote:
Here is one of the original inner bushings.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Max


Did you replace the inner bushings? (The brownish red Bakelite part)

Where did you find the grease seals?


Those inner metal bushings? how hard are they to replace? They are the bit that does the wearing on the inner bushing set.
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