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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 1:13 pm    Post subject: Need Help with an Engine Build Reply with quote

I've been away from the VW scene for sometime and just got back into it now that my son is turing 16 shortly and loves VW's.
The last engine I had built years ago for my car was a 1835 with Street Eltiminators, VZ 35 and 48 IDA's. I don't want to do that again, going more reliable this time.

I'm building a 1776 or larger if you can educate me, but want to stay with the 69mm stroke because I already have GB crank and flywheel from my old engine. It's 23 years old, but not damaged.

I have a new pair of Kadron 40's and my questions is what cam and heads to buy. It's all changed so much in the last 20 years that I'm a bit lost.

My engine builder is saying that the CB 044's are pretty nice for the money, but I'm leaning more in the direction of the Los Panchito's due to the smaller valves and less worry about cracking between them.

He is also steering me in the direction of a 110 cam, but with the heads that I'm looking at I think I could go with at least a 120?

The car is going to be driven in the summer only and is not a daily driver by any means. I may take it on some 250 mile trips to our cabin this summer and that's about it. I'm looking for the most power along with the most reliability. I don't have bugdet restictions, so please let me know if I'm way off base here.

Thank you for any help.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm old school so I'd go for the 1835 but build it with the thick wall 92mm P/C from AA. You don't say what "car" this is going in so I'll assume a Beetle. 94mm P/C's will work well too and give you 1915cc. If it's going in a Bus or Type 3 then I'd stay with TW 92's, but that's just me.

Heads, definitely 40 x 35.5mm P&P. Something like Steve Tims Stage 1's or DRD/AC.Net L5 heads would be great in this application.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1069091
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Road-Warrior-Dual-Port-Cylinder-Heads-L5s-p/l5-heads-pair.htm
http://www.drdracingheads.com/xcart/DRD-L5-CNC-ported-type1-heads-90.5mm-bore.html

...............and then there's Chong Woo, The Man, The Myth. Very Happy

If you want to use Kadrons then stay with the W110 cam but I think for what you want the W120 cam would really suit you better with Weber 40IDF's or Dellorto 40DRLA's.

A 1 1/2" header will do for exhaust.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the input!

The engine is going in a 1963 Bug. Sorry about that.
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go for an 1835 or 1915. Stay with a 110 cam. You will be happy and reliable. Full flow the case for oil will also help make it more reliable andlast longer.
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends which 110 cam he is refering too, the Engle W110 in a 1916cc would be quite mild, the Web Cam 110 is closer to the Engle W120 and would really waken the engine up with the other components you are considering
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your going to stay with the dual Kads, I would build a 1776 with L3 stock valve ported heads and dual springs from Aircooled.net. CB 044 heads are OK but the L3's are a much better dollar value. I don't think dual Kads are big enough to support larger valve heads. An Engle W-110 cam would be a great choice. For a 16 year old I'd install a 5800-6000 RPM rev limiter to be safe.

For a little more zip then build a 1835 or 1915 with dual Weber IDF's and 40x35.5 heads. A W-120 cam would be a good choice with the stock 4.37 R&P in the 63 transaxle.
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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help guys!

I just got off the phone with my engine builder and here's what we're doing.

1914, L5's, Engle 120 and 44's.

He said this will have plenty of power and be reliable.

I hope he's right!
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rwalker1296 wrote:
I hope he's right!

So Do We!! Wink
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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ALB
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use some 1.25 rockers to get your money's worth out of the ported heads; otherwise you're not getting the full benefit of the porting work. Might as well not spend so much money on heads if you're not going to utilize their full potential...
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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALB wrote:
Use some 1.25 rockers to get your money's worth out of the ported heads; otherwise you're not getting the full benefit of the porting work. Might as well not spend so much money on heads if you're not going to utilize their full potential...


Should I just go with a bigger cam instead of the ratio rockers?
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rwalker1296 wrote:
ALB wrote:
Use some 1.25 rockers to get your money's worth out of the ported heads; otherwise you're not getting the full benefit of the porting work. Might as well not spend so much money on heads if you're not going to utilize their full potential...


Should I just go with a bigger cam instead of the ratio rockers?


More duration won't provide substantially more valve lift; it will just raise the powerband. I believe the L5's have rising flow figures to well over 1/2" and the Engle W120 with 1.1 rockers gives only .430" valve lift; the cam rocker combo isn't matched to the heads' capabilities (if this sounds familiar, it is; John @ aircooled.net continually preaches this). These heads will work best with a cam/rocker combo that provides valve lift of 1/2" or more. Pairing the W120 with 1.25 rockers will give almost 1/2" valve lift and make good use of the porting work and airflow that you will be spending your hard earned cash (at least mine is hard earned...) on. Using a cam that has that much lift with 1.1 rockers (eg- the VZ series) is hard on parts and not always the best choice for something that has to last and be trouble free. There are numerous cams designed for 1.4 rockers that are suitable, but again you are spending money on rockers.

If you are looking for a poweband with 6000 rpm peak, the W110 with 1.25's will be a better choice; using 1.25's with a 1.1 cam will give 4-5 degrees more duration @ 0.050" and the W120 with 1.25's will rev to almost 6500 rpm.
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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you again for all the input.

With the V8's in my boat it was easy, just buy 496's throw on aluminum heads, blower cam and whipple efi superchargers and call it good.

Searching for the right combination for a VW engine is frustrating, and it seems the more you read the more you second guess yourself!
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rwalker1296 wrote:
Searching for the right combination for a VW engine is frustrating, and it seems the more you read the more you second guess yourself!
VW. The thinking man's car. Yes, there are a bewildering number of combos that can be built. You are lucky you chose to stay with the stock 69mm crank, stroker engines are a whole 'nother can of worms! Rolling Eyes It sounds like your combo of 1914, L5's, Engle 120 and 44's is a good one to stay with. It's a good standard combo that, if built properly with quality parts, will last a long time and have very good power.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so much depends on your budget, which you have not stated.

Some people can "afford" $500, others $7k. Obviously those 2 recipes are different.
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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One last question and then I'll quit bugging you. Very Happy

I've read conficting stories about what distributor to use. I have the brand new vacum advance distributor out of my car, or should I use something else and are the 44's set up to use a vacum advance distributor? Either way I don't want points to mess with.


Thanks again.
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For your application the Bosch 010 would be best IMHO.

http://www.glenn-ring.com/bosch/
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for $500 more you'd have a 2275.
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rwalker1296 wrote:
Thanks for the help guys!

I just got off the phone with my engine builder and here's what we're doing.

1914, L5's, Engle 120 and 44's.

He said this will have plenty of power and be reliable.

I hope he's right!


Sounds like a good plan. I'd start with 34mm venturies in the 44 IDF's and a 1 1/2" header. I also feel the best choice for a distributor on any street driven car would be a vaccum advance SVDA. The new Spanish IDF's come with a vaccum port.
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 1915 has a 120 cam with Los Panchinto heads, dual springs with 1.25's, 9:1 compression, 44 webers,1/58 merged header. Revs to 7000 and runs 8.9 in the 1/8. Had 1.1 rockers on at first and the 1.25's dropped 3 tenths off my time. It's a daily driver '69 beetle and has been very reliable since I built it 14 months ago.(except for some oil leaks)
ALB wrote:
rwalker1296 wrote:
ALB wrote:
Use some 1.25 rockers to get your money's worth out of the ported heads; otherwise you're not getting the full benefit of the porting work. Might as well not spend so much money on heads if you're not going to utilize their full potential...


Should I just go with a bigger cam instead of the ratio rockers?


More duration won't provide substantially more valve lift; it will just raise the powerband. I believe the L5's have rising flow figures to well over 1/2" and the Engle W120 with 1.1 rockers gives only .430" valve lift; the cam rocker combo isn't matched to the heads' capabilities (if this sounds familiar, it is; John @ aircooled.net continually preaches this). These heads will work best with a cam/rocker combo that provides valve lift of 1/2" or more. Pairing the W120 with 1.25 rockers will give almost 1/2" valve lift and make good use of the porting work and airflow that you will be spending your hard earned cash (at least mine is hard earned...) on. Using a cam that has that much lift with 1.1 rockers (eg- the VZ series) is hard on parts and not always the best choice for something that has to last and be trouble free. There are numerous cams designed for 1.4 rockers that are suitable, but again you are spending money on rockers.

If you are looking for a poweband with 6000 rpm peak, the W110 with 1.25's will be a better choice; using 1.25's with a 1.1 cam will give 4-5 degrees more duration @ 0.050" and the W120 with 1.25's will rev to almost 6500 rpm.

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rwalker1296
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After learning that new cranks cost the same from CB I've gone a different way, not too different, but a little.

I've gone with a 74X94 combo, which I think is a 2056 instead of 69X94. I talked to Steve Tims heads today and they said the Stage 1's probably wouldn't work too good with the engle 120, 1.25's and 44's and recomended Stage 2's but I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens.

My questions is, what length rod do I need to get, do I need the A or B pistons and do I need a lightened flywheel?


Thanks again for all the help, you all have made this much easier.
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