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Corvair/Powerglide Hadley-Manx (My 1st Buggy!!)
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 2:18 pm    Post subject: Corvair/Powerglide Hadley-Manx (My 1st Buggy!!) Reply with quote

Hey all, this is my first Manx-style buggy. I always wanted one when I was a kid so I thought "why not?" and started lookin' for my new ride. This is what I got:

Here's the link to the picture gallery: https://picasaweb.google.com/101287744458574910351/DuneBuggyProject2011#

(73SpeedBuggy, Thanks for the tip!)

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Anyway, this is what I know so far...

- Back-end cage (dat-sweet-phat-azz) is a Hadley Engineering complete Covair powertrain swap kit. From what I understand, they are fairly rare.
- The engine is a rebuilt mid-60's Corvair air-cooled engine (dual-carbs.)
- Transmission is a matched rebuilt Powerglide 2-speed automatic.

Here's what I don't know...

- What year Beetle the donor was.
- What fiberglass body / style it is. * Add pics later Cool


Last week I ran front hardlines and mounted the Dual Master Cylinder. The back brakes look like a beast to fish through the tunnel. Any suggestions?

Its an Auto now so could I chop out the shifter access and mounting below it? Suggestions on rust-proofing the Tunnel? I'm a newbie to car work but I learn fast Confused[img][/img][img][/img]


Last edited by CodeMonkey83 on Fri May 13, 2011 10:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a great project. Should be a lot of fun.

VW run the one rear brake hard line outside the tunnel, in the angle where the floor meets the tunnel. They put a T in the back and run separate hard lines to the point they meet the flex lines


Your parking brake handle has been relocated farther back on the tunnel and they may have welded over the chassis serial number. The number should be on top of the tunnel, a couple inches forward of the shifter coupling access hole.

Why do you think you need additional rustproofing inside the tunnel?

I see you have a temporary gas tank rigged up and the steering wheel/column sitting there. If you do fire it up, you'd be smart to resist the temptation of trying to drive the chassis while sitting on a milk crate. Quite a few accidents have happened like that. Wait until its all done right with all the working safety equipment in place.
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
VW run the one rear brake hard line outside the tunnel, in the angle where the floor meets the tunnel. They put a T in the back and run separate hard lines to the point they meet the flex lines


I heard something about that but there's 4 lines out on the MC so I might as well run two lines for the rear,don't you think? Any benefit one line vs two?

Quote:
Why do you think you need additional rustproofing inside the tunnel


"Additional rustproofing" would assume there was rust prevention in the first place Laughing Its a mess in there. I "ping" tested with hammer all the way up and down the tunnel below and above. The steel on the bottom is a bit thinner but its plenty solid. Just want it to say that way. Muriatic Acid?

Thanks for your input, it all helps!
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no problem running two lines. You can run one each side of the tunnel.

I don't see how you'd neutralize any kind of stripper inside the tunnel.
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Smyrnaguy
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can put Ospho in a garden sprayer and spray it into the tunnel from each end and the shifter hole. It won't rust-proof it but will stop rust from getting worse.
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! I'll look into that thanks
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Nic
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a great looking project. Jealous of your engine and trans. I'm no expert here, but are you SURE your master cylinder has 4 brake line outputs, and not 2 brake line outputs and 2 brake light switches?
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stock dual circuit M Cyls had a single line to the rear T'ed in front of the trans and two seperate lines to the front brakes. They usually had two brake switches fitted.
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading your comment, I had started having doubts that I installed it right Confused

Looks like you were correct guys. Not only was I wrong about the number of ports (2 front, 1 rear, 2 sensors) but I installed the front brake lines to the wrong side of the cylinder Evil or Very Mad Damn it.

Only 10 bucks down the toilet I suppose. It also looks like there is supposed to be spacers to slide over the bolt inside the interior wall. Guess I'll try fabbing something up for that. No sense denting the wall when I slam on the brakes.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It won't hurt to leave it plumbed that way. It means the larger side of the MC is connected to the rear, which can improve braking.

Try it and give us feedback.
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update for you guys (as if anyone reads this thread.) I ordered a bunch of stuff from http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/ Really nice guys over there! Great prices too.

My order from Wolfsburg West:

- Front Inspection Gasket
- Accelerator Pedal Pivot Arm
- Accelerator Repair Kit
- Rear Brake Line T Adapter
- Brake Pedal Return Spring
- Master Cylinder Interior Wall Spacers x2
- ZIRK Fitting for Front Beam Grease Fitting

Total = $48.00 after S/H

Damn good deal for brand new parts if you asked me Very Happy



I also pulled all the guts out of the dash/hood panel. Holy hell that stuff was rotten!!! Corrosion on everything, seized bolt and screws all over. On top of that this guy must have glues fuzzy carpet material onto the dash Shocked I mean I know it was the "era of bad taste" but WTF MAN!? ... anyway, it looks like the only gauge I could salvage was for the Oil Pressure. Anybody have any nice gauges lying around for a 64' - 66' type 1? Head light dimmer?
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73SpeedBuggy
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally Google's Picasa is my favorite pic hosting site, but if you dont' like it many people like Flickr.com
_________________
Manxter #39 on a 1971 Pan
Turbo-charged Subaru EJ25D (DOHC)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3923620/1971-volkswagen-beetle#

-Adam
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just noticed in one of your pics that your right axle carrier rod looks like it will hit your exhaust.
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@73Speedbuggy

I like Picasa's image hosting too. My complaint is that you can link directly to the individual pics AFAIK.

@BL3Manx

Haha thats the exhaust that came with the old type 1 engine. They don't fit right hanging off the corvair exhaust manifolds.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a Transvair system on a Tow'd once. The regular aftermarket Corvair headers don't clear the Transvair frame.
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73SpeedBuggy
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CodeMonkey83 wrote:
@73Speedbuggy

I like Picasa's image hosting too. My complaint is that you can link directly to the individual pics AFAIK.

@BL3Manx

Haha thats the exhaust that came with the old type 1 engine. They don't fit right hanging off the corvair exhaust manifolds.


You can
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When you are on the page for the picture you want to share, look on the rigth side of the screen for "link to this picture". Check off 'image only, no link", choose the size you want to post, and then copy the text in the 'embed image' box.
_________________
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Turbo-charged Subaru EJ25D (DOHC)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3923620/1971-volkswagen-beetle#

-Adam
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2011 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@73SpeedBuggy: Thanks for the tip on Picasa. I really dig that windshield and side pods! I've got some knock-off Manx tub with one of those flat aluminum channeled winshields... FUUUUU-GLY!! Embarassed

Where did you get it? Do you think it can be adapted to a different body with similar dimensions? Same goes for side pods; do they make universal pods you can adapt?

Note: I'll take a bunch of body pics this weekend, maybe identify the maker??
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EDIT: I reduced the image size to 800x600.

I'm back! here's some more pics mocking up the body on the frame (minus the hood panel)


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Last weekend I removed all the old wiring, electronics and lights. I had to scrape off all the black goo (Tar? Contruction adhesive? Confused) which was down right nasty. Guessing it's been on there for thirty years or so? Now it's just the bare fiberglass tub. I also cut apart the two fiberglass panels that make the hood at the seam where they were bonded together. Plan on mounting the dash to a metal bracket on the roll bar I'm having built.

This weekend should be interesting, I picked up some shielding gas for my MIG welder so I can fix some of the weld's on the pan. Finish up the rear brake lines too. Stay tuned Cool


Last edited by CodeMonkey83 on Thu May 26, 2011 10:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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CodeMonkey83
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a little while since last time. (What!? No replies? Crying or Very sad ) First, new pic's with the hood fitted:

Any idea what body this is? Kinda looks like a Manx minus the badge indent with two ridges going down the center.

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I finally got the brakes and the goofy throttle control worked out. See my brakes post in the Beetle section of the forum:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5351609

CodeMonkey83 wrote:
I managed to find an Assembly Manual for a 65' Corvair. HOLY HELL, It's 10x more helpful then the Shop Manual ever was!

I decided to keep the rear as "Stock" Corvair as possibly (easier to repair and replace NOS parts) and the pan + front-end VW. All I have to do is run the Metric rear hard-line, replace the end with SAE and Double-flare the other end. Then it's through the SAE 'T-block', into the stock soft-lines and finally, to the rear wheel-cylinders. We got BRAKES ^_^


The other problem was the Accelerator Cable. On a VW Engine, the cable pulls when you step on the Gas Pedal. On the Corvair, the cable "pushes" the Throttle Tab on the Carb's Cross-link Bar. This obviously left me scratching my head, "WTF, how does a cable push on a tab?" After looking through the Assemble Manual PDF, I found how they did it, a Accelerator Rod'. Turn's out it connects to the TV Lever on the left side of the Powerglide and a linkage on the top of the lever "pushes" the Throttle tab. Why do you need a mechanical TV if you have a Vaccum Modular?? Shocked Now if only I hadn't tried to modify the Throttle Tab... (See Below)


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Oh well, guess I have to put it back the way it was. Confused
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even on a Corvair with a standard transmission, there was a bellcrank linkage attached to the transmission which the throttle cable attached to and it changed the pull to a push. You might want to find a copy of the a copy of the Hadley instructions. There was also a 12 page article on the Transvair in this

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I think Corvair powered buggies are very cool and I enjoy your posts, but just to provide you access to the most info possible I just wanted to be sure you were aware there is a Corvair buggy forum where you might get more info;

http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/board_show.pl?bid=38

They also may be more helpful with your buggy ID.
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