The Stupid Question Thread

SixStringMadMan · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 3:23 pm Post subject:

rear axle nuts will not come off. Been spraying them with liquid wrench for months now, using 46mm socket with breaker bar and a 6' metal fence post for a cheater bar and no dice. Tire spun and shattered the wood I was using to chock the wheels...

Is there some special naked chant I have to do to make these $#(*%&#$ axle nuts come off?

Sad

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1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm

Stuartzickefoose · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:14 pm Post subject:

Wheel on the ground, 12 foot pipe, 3/4 drive socket.
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SixStringMadMan · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:25 pm Post subject:

Got 'em both finally. Holy backache batman! Sad

Now next stupid questions.

Hub has minor surface rust on the face by the studs. Do I use wd40 and steel wool to get rid of the minor rust, or not worry about it? Sand blast them? Paint them?

When putting the hubs back on, at a much later date, what kind of grease do I use? Is Valvoline Durablend Synthetic Blend grease ok to use? Just happen to have a small tub of it sitting here...

Going to pull rear backing plates, hopefully blast them then paint. When I do this, what is the easiest way to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the lines? Is the little cap on the wheel cylinder ample enough to cover and open brake line and stop the fluid?

And lastly, many thanks to the replies in this thread, you are life savers!!
_________________
1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353

airschooled · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:56 pm Post subject:

Agreed on the fluid flushing. Since your system will be open you will have to bleed anyway. Also sitting open for a while will allow the hydrophilic brake fluid to absorb water, which you must flush to keep the system functioning 100%
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busdaddy · Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:18 pm Post subject:

SixStringMadMan · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:04 am Post subject:

Here is the rust/goo I was talking out on the hubs. The back is extra crusty.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here's where I was talking about for the grease, seems like quite a bit on the grooves of the axle itself. Seal is looking a wee bit crusty as well...

_________________
1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353

You have never seen a vehicle from the salt belt have you? Not problems at all with the rust you have. Wire brush the loose stuff off if you wish but otherwise ignore it.

Replace the outer wheel seal while you have it exposed and use a needle to add a couple of ounces of fresh grease to the bearing. Clean and regrease the splines.

RixiesRide · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:37 pm Post subject:

Ok since I can't do anything mechanical on my bus I decided I would start working on thinks that I thought I could do.

I got tired of looking at my turn signal housing just hanging there so I went out and screwed the steering column back to the dash and
screwed the two halves together of the housing. Yay that was easy! But one problem, the housing rotates around the column.

What did I do wrong? This is what it looked like before I fixed it.

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1973 Wild Westerner "Mr. Peabody"
1967 Beetle "Sherman"

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busdaddy · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:56 pm Post subject:

RixiesRide · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:23 pm Post subject:

MaritimeBay · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:43 pm Post subject:

So I've tried finding the answer to this using the search function and could only find one similar unanswered question in the 'up in smoke' thread. Perhaps it really is a stupid question. Anyways - I'm going to be replacing my fuel lines (77 FI 2.0) this weekend, already have the kit from German Supply. Just wondering about the short lines from the metal fuel rail to the injectors. Is there a special tool I'll need to remove/replace the fuel line at the little cup shaped deals near the blue injector plugs? I'm assuming the fuel lines just slide onto something there and it doesn't require clamping. Just wanted to make sure I don't bite off more than I can chew.

Thanks!

I've included a picture I stole from EZ Gruv, for reference.

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1977 2.0L FI Westfalia.

They call my home the land of snow.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353

I slit the fuel line with an utility knife and once the line is off I take a hacksaw and cut the metal collar most of the way through at about a 45* angle. I then take vise grips and twist the remainder of the collar back and forth until it breaks and comes off.

I use screw clamps on both ends of the replacement hose.

MaritimeBay · Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:30 pm Post subject:

Excellent - thanks Wildthings!
_________________
1977 2.0L FI Westfalia.

They call my home the land of snow.

SixStringMadMan · Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:30 am Post subject:

What's the best way to clean inside the hubs? Just soak in hot water and purple power? Was cleaning them up a bit before I dismantle the brakes and noticed there is some rust and quite a bit of goo in there.

Also I have the passenger side rear brakes dismantled, flipped the shoe over that has the bar where the handbrake attaches, was going to pull the clip and transfer the bar over to the new shoes, but there was no clip and it also looks like this bar is permanently attached. In other words there was no room for a clip to hold the bar to the shoe, looks almost like it was pressed together from both sides. Is it possible to just pry that connection apart and reuse it, or am I looking at ordering more parts?
_________________
1978 Kombi
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-10020.htm

Jake Hoff · Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:34 pm Post subject:

When did the 1.7,1.8 and the 2.0 come out when I have searched I have found conflicting info

Jake Hoff · Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:58 pm Post subject:

Instead of answering my question can somebody just confirm my findings

1971 last year of 1600 DP in USA

1972 1700 came out dual carbed

1974 1800 comes out dual carbed

1976 2000 comes out with fuel injection

1981 last year of type 4 motor?

Thanks for your corrections

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353

I think the following is correct:

1700 Type 4 FI and carbed engines used in '69 model Type 4 cars.

1800 L-jet used in '74 model Type 4 cars

1800 FI used in 1975 Transporters

'83 was the last year for the Type 4 engine in Vanagons

Porsche also used these engines.

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:45 pm Post subject:

Also 1800 L-Jet used on Cailifornia automatic trans buses in 74 and all 1800's got L-Jet in 75.
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