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totallynotmelgibson Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2013 Posts: 33
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:58 am Post subject: |
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Well s**t guys. No one in Bozeman carries a bolt that size. I looked at all the hardware stores and car parts stores. I'll be going by mechanic shops on Monday when they open again, but I know there aren't any specialized VW shops in town. Carquest says they can order one by Tuesday, so maybe I'll have to set up camp in the Walmart lot until then
I thought the bus was keeping me in Bozeman so I could meet up with this old friend of mine, but she left me out in the rain last night Oh well! There's an update for y'all! Thanks for all the help |
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RixiesRide Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2005 Posts: 708 Location: Stockton, CA
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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I did a search for cleaning flywheel and found nothing. Can I clean this or is it something that needs to go to a shop to have it cleaned or polished? Or is it now junk? _________________ 1973 Wild Westerner "Mr. Peabody"
1967 Beetle "Sherman"
http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/RixiesRide/WW/ |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:09 am Post subject: |
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you can attempt cleaning. the surfaces that matter are the snout of the back, where it pops out a bit in the center, as the rear main seal rests on that surface, it must be perfectly smooth....
and the clutch surface, flip it over and the flat area must be smooth like a brake rotor. you can have that part machined for best results....
flywheels are much like brake rotors, replaceable and machinable n such. good idea to replace or have professionally inspected before you do all the work of install/pulling the motor. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:16 am Post subject: |
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Ives676 wrote: |
I am looking into gathering parts for a subaru swap eventually. Is there a reason to pick a manual vs automatic subaru parts car if my bus will be a manual?
I found a donor 1992 subaru legacy that is an automatic. Is there any issue with using the engine from the subaru with a manual bus transmission?
Will it work? Does it require special or different adapters? |
automatic will need a flywheel and clutch setup, which you will buy with a adapter kit anyways...i would ask the couple of guys doing subaru swap stuff...JSMskater, Webwalker etc... _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:29 am Post subject: |
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brandt wrote: |
Quote: |
77 the same as a 74 |
Just kidding, the 77 harness has all the stuff for the double relay.
But another stupid question.
77 ECU's one, 022 906 021S, for a manual trans and ...021T for an automatic. What's the difference? |
there is a extra pin at terminal 15 or so on the ECU connector if i remember right. i dont recall the exact number without a manual in front of me. i think its for a downshifting or full throttle switch i THINK. someone can correct me. but it has to do with the automatic transmission stuff. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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guitarman63mm Samba Member
Joined: September 03, 2008 Posts: 797 Location: Asheville, NC
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Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Is there any reason that I can't attach my crankcase breather and my fuel vapor line directly to the CIS system? I have a 12mm nipple from where I cut off the air pump fitting, and there's also a smaller one that looks to fit vacuum hose...from what I understand, the CIS would simply suck the vapors out of both.
I have K&N filters, so right now I have both the 12mm breather hose and the fuel line vapor going into a tee shoved in the bottom of the air cleaner, and it seems like going straight into the CIS would be neater-looking. _________________ Jimmy
- 1974 Safaré Custom Camper. 091 trans + Dual Weber 34 ICTs + Pertronix SVDA + 1.7L 914 T4 engine. |
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Jamesre Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2013 Posts: 73 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:36 am Post subject: |
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ok I am at the point where I want to start my bus. I turn the key and I get the GEN light and the OIL light. I turn the key and nothing happens. I'm struggling with understanding a few things that got changed. When I installed this new engine many years ago, it had an alternator instead of a generator. I remember my neighbor moving me aside and finishing the wiring. He took out the voltage regulator. Looking at the Bentley diagram now and pictures of the engine before I took it out of the bus, I think:
He took the thick red wire that USED TO GO from the postive cable to the regulator and made it go from the positive cable directly to the screw-on terminal on the alternator. That wire grommet (under the positive battery cable grommet) that brings into the engine compartment the fuel sender wire, the taillight/license plate light wires (a thick rubber sleeve), the oil sensor wire -- that grommet has a bluish/greenish wire that Bentley also shows going to the regulator... he spliced this directly onto the push-on terminal on the alternator.
The oil sensor wire is inside a smaller rubber sleeve with one other wire -- a black wire. It appears from pictures of the engine that this black wire connects to a positive terminal of the coil.
So what's my question.... I dont know exactly. I'm calm and patient right now but I was hoping to start a discussion of this set up. I have some pictures if someone would be willing to help a little bit. _________________ 1970 Bus w/rebuilt 71 engine.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=544958&start=20
1969 Fastback (just bought). |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:39 am Post subject: |
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If the wiring your neighbor did has worked for years, then it is probably good. Have you taken your multimeter and checked to see if you have voltage to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position? When you pretty lady turns the key to the "START" position do you have power to any of the male spade terminals on the starter solenoid?
You might actually start by seeing if you have power to any fuse in the fuse box at any time and power to the #3, 4, or 5 fuses when the key is on. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:40 am Post subject: |
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Sounds legit from here, have a look at the starter, is the red/black wire connected to the spade terminal? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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williamM Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008 Posts: 4333 Location: southwest Arizona
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:51 am Post subject: |
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the correct spade terminal- Sorry- don't know what came over me. _________________ some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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Jamesre Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2013 Posts: 73 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
If the wiring your neighbor did has worked for years, then it is probably good. Have you taken your multimeter and checked to see if you have voltage to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position? When you pretty lady turns the key to the "START" position do you have power to any of the male spade terminals on the starter solenoid?
You might actually start by seeing if you have power to any fuse in the fuse box at any time and power to the #3, 4, or 5 fuses when the key is on. |
if I am using my multimeter correctly, I have 12 volts at both the screw-on terminal on the alternator and at the positive spade on the coil, when the key is turned on. I can't seem to get a reading at the fuse box, but that must be me.... I know when I turned the key on, I blew fuse #1 a couple times.
At the starter, I have the positive cable and red/white wire attached to the screw-on terminal, a red cable attached to 2:00 spade _________________ 1970 Bus w/rebuilt 71 engine.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=544958&start=20
1969 Fastback (just bought). |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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You obviously need power to your fuse box and ignition switch so you need to start at the battery and work forward to find out where it stops.
Pull the green wire off your coil and turn you ignition switch to the "ON" position while having your headlights on while you do the testing so there will be a load on the system.
If you do have power getting to the ignition switch, try relocating your red wire on each of the spades on the solenoid, there are actually two different circuits there and only one circuit will work.
No Red/Black wire dangling loose somewhere around the solenoid? Don't think so, but worth checking. |
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Jamesre Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2013 Posts: 73 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
You obviously need power to your fuse box and ignition switch so you need to start at the battery and work forward to find out where it stops.
Pull the green wire off your coil and turn you ignition switch to the "ON" position while having your headlights on while you do the testing so there will be a load on the system.
If you do have power getting to the ignition switch, try relocating your red wire on each of the spades on the solenoid, there are actually two different circuits there and only one circuit will work.
No Red/Black wire dangling loose somewhere around the solenoid? Don't think so, but worth checking. |
No red/black wiring dangling. I'll keep at it, thanks. Question: Are all the spades on the solenoid the same? I mean, I can attach that red wire to any of the spades and not worry about connecting it to a negative spade or doing anything that will damage the starter/alternator? Another question: this thing was attached with a zip tie to the arm next to the starter. I can't find a VW symbol on it, so I dont think it's original... the zip tie makes me think that too. any ideas as to what it is/was? The position makes me think it was attached to the solenoid.
_________________ 1970 Bus w/rebuilt 71 engine.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=544958&start=20
1969 Fastback (just bought). |
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Bala Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2003 Posts: 2613 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:17 am Post subject: |
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Are the upper and lower rear shock bolts the same diameter (12mm).
I could have sworn the upper was larger when I replaced my shocks a few weeks ago. I've searched and it looks like they are the same, but I dunno... _________________ 1976 Westy
1966 Beetle |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:25 am Post subject: |
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Bala wrote: |
Are the upper and lower rear shock bolts the same diameter (12mm).
I could have sworn the upper was larger when I replaced my shocks a few weeks ago. I've searched and it looks like they are the same, but I dunno... |
Thanks to jerseylooker
Top 12X1.5x102
Bottom 12x1.5x90 |
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Bala Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2003 Posts: 2613 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:49 am Post subject: |
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Hmm, okay. Thanks Tcash! _________________ 1976 Westy
1966 Beetle |
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khalimadeath Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2014 Posts: 768 Location: Reno, NV
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:45 am Post subject: |
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You guys think these holes are for a spare tire holder bracket? When I do the paint you think I should weld them up or mount a new braket? Im gonna be running BFG offroad tires..
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 11:26 am Post subject: |
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khalimadeath wrote: |
You guys think these holes are for a spare tire holder bracket? When I do the paint you think I should weld them up or mount a new braket? Im gonna be running BFG offroad tires..
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Typical bracket holes and tire dents. It is your call on what to do with them. If you want your tire up front, that is your call as well. |
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williamM Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008 Posts: 4333 Location: southwest Arizona
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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I've run both the front mount and suffered the same body damage- not visible when tire is there (for the most part) Also have used a boat spare tire off the front bumper which also works good and tilts forward so you can hide your- I digress-
Best place would be the roof rack- but you need a good ladder and strong back. Mine had a big propane tank up there. I'll see if I can find some pics- just ignore the split windshield.
Then you can support the weight on the bumper but drill 2 holes on the nose to keep it up right- much easier to patch than wrinkles.
_________________ some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any!
Last edited by williamM on Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:41 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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khalimadeath Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2014 Posts: 768 Location: Reno, NV
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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Hmm I think I am gonna go ahead and mount one there. I curious as to how the bracket mounts and how strong it will be since I will be running larger tires than stock. Id rather not ad a ton of reinforcement to the bracket unless its out of sight. |
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