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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know the specs on a front rotor bolt for a 78 bus? Had one break on me. Its the bold that holds the rotor on to the hub.
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Campin68
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:15 pm    Post subject: Steering Damper question Reply with quote

I'm trying the replace the steering damper on a 68 bus. The Bentley has some pretty specific and simple directions but I'm still stuck.

The side with the bolt and cotter pin came off pretty easy, but the other side that's bolted to the axle won't come off.
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There's a nut inside that space between the damper and the axle that spins when I try to loosen the bolt. I've tried wedging a screwdriver and needle nose in there to stop it, but it just spins in there.

Since this wasn't mentioned in either the Bentley or Muir books, was this bolt originally welded on the axle and has come loose?

A little guidance would be appreciated! If it needs to be re-welded, I'll turn the job over to a pro.

Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my 70' bus, the nut is welded on the back side. You should be able to spray some penetrating oil in there and hold it with a wrench or wedge something in there to keep it from spinning.
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fon
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do all VW came with one key for doors and ignition?
My 1970 Westy ignition ( pretty sure factory )and engine lid work with one key the rest of the doors another...I just got my front doors handles rekey to the code of that was found on my sliding door. But the keys don't work on the ignition or the engine lid. They look completed different .
My goal is to make my bus as stock as possible.
Thanks!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fon wrote:
Do all VW came with one key for doors and ignition?
My 1970 Westy ignition ( pretty sure factory )and engine lid work with one key the rest of the doors another...I just got my front doors handles rekey to the code of that was found on my sliding door. But the keys don't work on the ignition or the engine lid. They look completed different .
My goal is to make my bus as stock as possible.
Thanks!

They all started out with one key but ignition locks wear out and get replaced without rekeying sometimes, the decklid lock always seems to be a separate key for some reason.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
Does anyone know the specs on a front rotor bolt for a 78 bus? Had one break on me. Its the bold that holds the rotor on to the hub.

Thanks to jeersylooker
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fon
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
fon wrote:
Do all VW came with one key for doors and ignition?
My 1970 Westy ignition ( pretty sure factory )and engine lid work with one key the rest of the doors another...I just got my front doors handles rekey to the code of that was found on my sliding door. But the keys don't work on the ignition or the engine lid. They look completed different .
My goal is to make my bus as stock as possible.
Thanks!

They all started out with one key but ignition locks wear out and get replaced without rekeying sometimes, the decklid lock always seems to be a separate key for some reason.

Thanks!
That make sence, the bus is been in our home since 1973. If he remember chanching the ignition switch.
When you say decklid, you refer to the engine compartment ?
In the other hand I have a extra NOS ignition switch L profile can those be recoded as well ? If they can have the decklid an the ignition rekey for a one key bus...
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fon wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
fon wrote:
Do all VW came with one key for doors and ignition?
My 1970 Westy ignition ( pretty sure factory )and engine lid work with one key the rest of the doors another...I just got my front doors handles rekey to the code of that was found on my sliding door. But the keys don't work on the ignition or the engine lid. They look completed different .
My goal is to make my bus as stock as possible.
Thanks!

They all started out with one key but ignition locks wear out and get replaced without rekeying sometimes, the decklid lock always seems to be a separate key for some reason.

Thanks!
That make sence, the bus is been in our home since 1973. If he remember chanching the ignition switch.
When you say decklid, you refer to the engine compartment ?
In the other hand I have a extra NOS ignition switch L profile can those be recoded as well ? If they can have the decklid an the ignition rekey for a one key bus...

Decklid = engine hatch, that lock was an option often installed at the dealer so it often came with the key it was supplied with, if it has the same profile as the rest a competent locksmith can recode it, same with the ignition switch.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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force3g
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:20 pm    Post subject: Generator Brush Clips Reply with quote

HELP please!
1970 Westy single 1600. While removing the brushes to see if they were the culprit of the gen light getting brighter with higher RPMS, the clip or spring that keeps the brush in place broke. I can not find any replacements.

Preparing to remove the generator for possible repair or replacement...I have pulled the carb, removed belt and removed the four bolts holding it to the fan housing. I do not have room to drop the motor.

Do I need to replace it? If so should I do a alternator conversion? Surely some of you have broken these clips. What did you do to remedy the situation?

Thanks
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Generator Brush Clips Reply with quote

force3g wrote:
Do I need to replace it?

Only if you can't find a replacement spring, got any cores you can rob the part from?
Regardless you'll be better off removing the generator to get at that, it'll be a pain to do in place. Next step for removal is get the big nut off the fan end so the fan can stay in the shroud while you lift the generator and it's backing plate over the manifold.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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force3g
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks BD...I am searching the classifieds for cores I can use for parts.
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fon
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
fon wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
fon wrote:
Do all VW came with one key for doors and ignition?
My 1970 Westy ignition ( pretty sure factory )and engine lid work with one key the rest of the doors another...I just got my front doors handles rekey to the code of that was found on my sliding door. But the keys don't work on the ignition or the engine lid. They look completed different .
My goal is to make my bus as stock as possible.
Thanks!

They all started out with one key but ignition locks wear out and get replaced without rekeying sometimes, the decklid lock always seems to be a separate key for some reason.

Thanks!
That make sence, the bus is been in our home since 1973. If he remember chanching the ignition switch.
When you say decklid, you refer to the engine compartment ?
In the other hand I have a extra NOS ignition switch L profile can those be recoded as well ? If they can have the decklid an the ignition rekey for a one key bus...

Decklid = engine hatch, that lock was an option often installed at the dealer so it often came with the key it was supplied with, if it has the same profile as the rest a competent locksmith can recode it, same with the ignition switch.

Thanks!!
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
Manfreds78bay wrote:
Does anyone know the specs on a front rotor bolt for a 78 bus? Had one break on me. Its the bold that holds the rotor on to the hub.

Thanks to jeersylooker
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


M8x20! Thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been convinced for a while I have a small vaccum leak, but I can't find a thing using an unlit torch or spraying WD 40 at connections.

Hooked up a vacuum gauge near fuel pressure regulator and I get a dead steady 17. Looks good to me....but....the bypass adjustment on my AFM is completely closed (full CW). If I start to turn it CCW to open the vacuum steadily drops and I could stall the engine if I wanted. That would indicate a definitely leak somewhere, correct?
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kkjellquist wrote:
Been convinced for a while I have a small vaccum leak, but I can't find a thing using an unlit torch or spraying WD 40 at connections.

Hooked up a vacuum gauge near fuel pressure regulator and I get a dead steady 17. Looks good to me....but....the bypass adjustment on my AFM is completely closed (full CW). If I start to turn it CCW to open the vacuum steadily drops and I could stall the engine if I wanted. That would indicate a definitely leak somewhere, correct?



How far out is your idle adjustment?
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kkjellquist
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
kkjellquist wrote:
Been convinced for a while I have a small vaccum leak, but I can't find a thing using an unlit torch or spraying WD 40 at connections.

Hooked up a vacuum gauge near fuel pressure regulator and I get a dead steady 17. Looks good to me....but....the bypass adjustment on my AFM is completely closed (full CW). If I start to turn it CCW to open the vacuum steadily drops and I could stall the engine if I wanted. That would indicate a definitely leak somewhere, correct?



How far out is your idle adjustment?


Dunno...never turned it all the way in and back to count the turns.
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1977 Sage Green Deluxe Campmobile - "Turtel"
(1978 2L FI, Pertronix, Hydraulic Lifters)

Turtel - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561195

Pisgah Bus Rally - New Year's Day
http://pisgahbusrally.blogspot.com/
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kkjellquist wrote:
Manfreds78bay wrote:
kkjellquist wrote:
Been convinced for a while I have a small vaccum leak, but I can't find a thing using an unlit torch or spraying WD 40 at connections.

Hooked up a vacuum gauge near fuel pressure regulator and I get a dead steady 17. Looks good to me....but....the bypass adjustment on my AFM is completely closed (full CW). If I start to turn it CCW to open the vacuum steadily drops and I could stall the engine if I wanted. That would indicate a definitely leak somewhere, correct?



How far out is your idle adjustment?


Dunno...never turned it all the way in and back to count the turns.



I'm thinking if you have it backed out far enough it would compensate and act like a vacuum leak if you have your bypass turned all the way in. See where I'm coming from?
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kkjellquist
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:

I'm thinking if you have it backed out far enough it would compensate and act like a vacuum leak if you have your bypass turned all the way in. See where I'm coming from?


Thinking you're right....gonna try this...tell me what you think;

Turn idle all the way in
Turn AFM 4 1/2 out per the AKSkeptic article on bypass adjust
Start her up and see what happens w/ idle and vacuum
Once I get good idle and vacuum I can watch the MPG and plugs for lean/rich
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1977 Sage Green Deluxe Campmobile - "Turtel"
(1978 2L FI, Pertronix, Hydraulic Lifters)

Turtel - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561195

Pisgah Bus Rally - New Year's Day
http://pisgahbusrally.blogspot.com/
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kkjellquist wrote:
Manfreds78bay wrote:

I'm thinking if you have it backed out far enough it would compensate and act like a vacuum leak if you have your bypass turned all the way in. See where I'm coming from?


Thinking you're right....gonna try this...tell me what you think;

Turn idle all the way in
Turn AFM 4 1/2 out per the AKSkeptic article on bypass adjust
Start her up and see what happens w/ idle and vacuum
Once I get good idle and vacuum I can watch the MPG and plugs for lean/rich


Sounds good to me.
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DrKamikazi
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so this is probably a stupid question but I seem to be getting conflicting info from sources on here and John Muirs book. So Im trouble shooting my starter and in the book it says if you connect the lug to the terminal and it turns over like normal then the solenoid is bad. But on here I seem to be getting the impression that this is not right and it should turn over when connected. Also in the book it says key off, and if I do it with the key off It doesnt turn over, which Ive read elsewhere is what its supposed to do. And then with the key on it turns over.

So basically I turn the key on and jump the lug to the terminal and the starter turns the engine over. Jump the same two without the key and it just makes a clacking sort of noise.

Also I have already replaced the ignition switch and a ton of wiring and connections, as well as points, condenser...ect.
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