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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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dragginwagon Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2012 Posts: 14 Location: mount juliet, tn
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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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here goes....
I just bought my first bus.... 71 minus motor and trans.
I think I have a lead on a trans and I have a 1600sp layind around.
is there certain uprights that fit these buses or ????? will my 1600 fit or do I need a particular block? etc????
thanx |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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Almost any 1600 will fit but you'll need a 200mm flywheel and a compatible throwout bearing/pressure plate, the case should have the bosses for the rear mount but there are adaptors that work OK when installed carefully, heater box control levers also need to be bus compatible and the front tin over the bellhousing has to be bus only. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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1971 was the first year for the Dual Port 1600 engine in a Bus! It had a Dog-House fan shroud on it and used a different oil cooler to support the needed cooling produced by a more powerful engine. Don't even mess with the single port for it unless your going to have it as a spare engine or something. Yes find a 1971 or later case with the Rear Mounts and if your bus did not have it's rear mount bar we call it the Mustache bar then your going to need to find one. The good used cases are pretty hard to come by in ad's but if you ask around at some local shops your probably going to find one. Expect to pay between $50 and $300 for a good used case or with luck the whole engine. (It will need to be rebuilt though, big $ to do it right!) Look for one that does not have a lot of end-play at the pulley. Sometimes they show up on Cregs List saw one in the Asheville listing (919) 389-3589 I think it would work but they want $1250 for it but I think it has been rebuilt. (Not sure it's the right one though) Needs to be an AE case. _________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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dragginwagon Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2012 Posts: 14 Location: mount juliet, tn
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:56 am Post subject: |
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why must i have a dual port?
i plan on freshing up the 1600sp with new jugs/ pistons, reworked heads and maybe a small cam. its a good motor as is so i figured id use it if i can
any pics of the rear mount bosseS?
i got a mustache bar with bus but realized the wrong one once i got home |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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You can run it but if it's not a dog-house fan shroud it could run a little hot!
Check out the differences in the Bug Engine Case and the Bus or Universal cases. It could be your Mustache bar is correct just your case is a bug case.
This is a Bug case:
This is a Bus case: This one is an aftermarket Case made in Mexico:
Mustache bar attached directly to the engine case:
1968-1971 VW Bus Rear Engine Mount, 2 of these attach the Mustache bar to the Bus.
1971 VW Bus Engine with it's Aluminum offset Dog-House oil cooler and 36mm wide fan. "Factory"
_________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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JDub113 Samba Member
Joined: June 08, 2009 Posts: 758 Location: Reno
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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sonofamitch wrote: |
I read somewhere that gas shocks raise the height of the front end. Is this true? |
new gas shocks will add maybe 3/4" front and rear. If you are needing a front end alignment, do it after you get the new front shocks on. _________________ 84 Wolfsburg Edition Westy |
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:04 am Post subject: |
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I'm making the swap back to FI from dual carbs.
Is it advisable to run a 009 distributor with electronic ignition to get rid of the need for vacuum?
Or should I stick with my current setup? The distributor I have now is the original one for my set-up, a 1978 2 liter. _________________ -Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:10 am Post subject: |
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secretsubmariner wrote: |
I'm making the swap back to FI from dual carbs.
Is it advisable to run a 009 distributor with electronic ignition to get rid of the need for vacuum?
Or should I stick with my current setup? The distributor I have now is the original one for my set-up, a 1978 2 liter. |
If the one you have is original and functioning, that will be the best for your FI install by far.
The lack of vacuum has nothing to do with points vs. electronic module substitutes.
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:23 am Post subject: |
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asiab3 wrote: |
secretsubmariner wrote: |
I'm making the swap back to FI from dual carbs.
Is it advisable to run a 009 distributor with electronic ignition to get rid of the need for vacuum?
Or should I stick with my current setup? The distributor I have now is the original one for my set-up, a 1978 2 liter. |
If the one you have is original and functioning, that will be the best for your FI install by far.
The lack of vacuum has nothing to do with points vs. electronic module substitutes.
Robbie |
Thanks Robbie! You're the man I'm a huge fan of your travels and your sick bus!
My desire for ridding the vacuum actually has nothing to do with what points I'll use, I don't have any problem with good ol' regular points! Sorry! With my current set-up, vacuum leaks are killing me left and right. So I was thinking about an 009.
Electronic points are just something I've been thinking about on the side.
I agree with you on keeping it stock. I just hate sucking air from every freaking spot. My decision has been made. Thanks man _________________ -Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12728 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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secretsubmariner wrote: |
My desire for ridding the vacuum actually has nothing to do with what points I'll use, I don't have any problem with good ol' regular points! Sorry! With my current set-up, vacuum leaks are killing me left and right. So I was thinking about an 009.
I agree with you on keeping it stock. I just hate sucking air from every freaking spot. My decision has been made. Thanks man |
Sorry to hear about your vacuum leak issues. The old Solexes are pretty good about being able to mix out small leaks with the idel circuitry.
I assume you'll be using mostly new hoses, Y's, T's, and nipples with the FI swap. New ones are good, used ones can be cracked and will not show unless a THOROUGH inspection is given. There are many more likely places for an intake leak with a FI system, the distributor T's into several other components depending on the year.
You can test your distributor for leaks by sucking on the advance (and retard, if present,) nipple and plugging it with your tongue. It should hold the suction. If it holds, your leaks are elsewhere. If it leaks, you can use the distributor as a 009 by timing it at 28* max RPM, hoses off. I drove around 1300 miles two years ago like that. Temps were all normal but I did lose a few MPGs.
If you go electronic, don't forget the few droips of oil into the distributor advance wick (under the rotor) at every oil change.
Have fun with the swap! _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Robbie, I appreciate it.
I had the duals on where it was running very, very nicely. Not quite enough power but I was getting around well in it. I had a knock in the engine that I couldn't get to go away, and fidgeted with the balance tube time and time again, including all the other hoses in between. I'm done getting stranded and hearing my engine knock at me. It never did that with FI. It's time for stock.
I actually have done the suction test on my little dist. port, and it does hold suction.
And my FI will get all new rubber and hardware. It was working fine, no knocks no nothing, until my distributor jumped out of time one day when I didn't tighten it down enough.. and the then S-boot cracked and is now fubar. So I put it away. Now that it's all off and in a box, it will be much easier to see everything and clean it all up. I'm looking forward to it _________________ -Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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tony, get all the parts together you need, and im dead serious, lets plan a trip for me to just come over and help you set it all up. plus, i can bring parts with me if you want _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
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force3g Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2009 Posts: 195 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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1970 Bus 1600 dual port single 34PICT-3 carb
I just replaced the old braided fuel lines with new high quality rubber. I replaced the plastic fuel filter with a metal one and placed it under the bus. I also replaced the plug wires with nice Bosch set.
Engine turns over great, won't start. I made a jump wire to turn it over at the engine bay. I hooked my test light to the positive and the negative of the coil. With the key on it lights. Pulled the center wire off the distributer and held it next to the distributor cap clamp. I have great spark.
I unhooked the fuel line where it enters the fuel pump. Nice stream of fuel came out. I unhooked the fuel line where it enters the carb, turned over the engine and no fuel stream. If I hold the hose that hose below the fuel pump a couple of drops dribble out.
When I stop cranking the engine I can hear a "glug, glug, glug" sound. So, fuel must be moving somewhere, right?
Apparently the fuel pump is not working. Are there other things to try to determine exactly what is wrong with the pump? _________________ Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet.
1970 Westy
2010 Jetta |
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Skoolieman Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2011 Posts: 573 Location: Chattanooga TN
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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Are you sure you hooked the fuel lines back to the right side of the pump? If you did I would check the diaphragm inside the pump-although I am betting the hoses are backwards _________________ '69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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The top fitting on the pump is the inlet _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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force3g Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2009 Posts: 195 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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What a bone head move. _________________ Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet.
1970 Westy
2010 Jetta |
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Spezialist Banned
Joined: July 01, 2005 Posts: 1941
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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is there a rust repair section for the lower front windshield section without buying the whole nose skin? _________________
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force3g Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2009 Posts: 195 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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I have a noise from the rear when I hit fourth gear. My CV joints and axels are new so I am going to look at the wheel bearings first. How tight is "tight"? I am reading the threads that say to get the nut on the rear wheel bearings tight. Are we talking pneumatic impact tight? _________________ Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet.
1970 Westy
2010 Jetta |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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force3g wrote: |
I have a noise from the rear when I hit fourth gear. My CV joints and axels are new so I am going to look at the wheel bearings first. How tight is "tight"? I am reading the threads that say to get the nut on the rear wheel bearings tight. Are we talking pneumatic impact tight? |
Got a Bentley or other manual? I think the spec in the book is 253 ft*lbs minimum and then turn the nut further to align the cotter pin which may take it up into the 800 or even 1000 ft*lbs range. I use Vanagon nuts and the Vanagon spec which is 360 ft*lbs minimum. |
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