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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean and pack the bearing with a little grease. Without the Felt, clutch dust will be in there.
Good Luck
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone sell a kit of the grommets that the engine compartment wires run through for bays? for early bays? I can't find a kit, and I want to order from Grainger/Fastenal/McMaster, but they have a minimum order of 100 grommets of any size.

I'd gladly buy them all and sell kits as needed; does anyone already? And would anyone be interested in buying a collection?
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XXX/Rx/RnR
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel leak between the rail and #2 cyl injector fixed and the poor idle cleared up. The 018 afm I installed seems to have fixed the cutting out.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Does anyone sell a kit of the grommets that the engine compartment wires run through for bays? for early bays? I can't find a kit, and I want to order from Grainger/Fastenal/McMaster, but they have a minimum order of 100 grommets of any size.

I'd gladly buy them all and sell kits as needed; does anyone already? And would anyone be interested in buying a collection?


When I gutted and rewired my '71, I recall having a similar issue, but finally was able to find a pack of 5 or 10 or so various sized rubber grommets at Home Depot for a couple bucks. I think they were over in the electrical supplies where they have the shrink tubing and crimp connectors, etc.
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Does anyone sell a kit of the grommets that the engine compartment wires run through for bays? for early bays? I can't find a kit, and I want to order from Grainger/Fastenal/McMaster, but they have a minimum order of 100 grommets of any size.

I'd gladly buy them all and sell kits as needed; does anyone already? And would anyone be interested in buying a collection?

I'd help you move some of those. It'd be handy just to have a handful of sizes that are needed, as I go through them rather quickly bringing project buses back to life. (Grommets are always missing!)
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jtauxe wrote:
asiab3 wrote:
Does anyone sell a kit of the grommets that the engine compartment wires run through for bays? for early bays? I can't find a kit, and I want to order from Grainger/Fastenal/McMaster, but they have a minimum order of 100 grommets of any size.

I'd gladly buy them all and sell kits as needed; does anyone already? And would anyone be interested in buying a collection?

I'd help you move some of those. It'd be handy just to have a handful of sizes that are needed, as I go through them rather quickly bringing project buses back to life. (Grommets are always missing!)


Grommets are always missing, aren't they? Wink

I acquired samples of three good SAE sizes that work well, but aren't true metric sizes that fit perfectly. I'm going to run them but I'd feel bad selling them as a kit because they're not 100% correct. Boxes of 100 are available, but I didn't check anywhere local to try to find them quick and easy.

For early bays, you'll need three. in '71 you'll need a fourth for the brake booster hose. I do not know that size.

Right side stock grommets are available from Wolfsburg West. I have a large stereo amp running through mine as well, so I need a larger inside diameter (A) than stock.

Groove (E) diameters:
Large (battery and stereo) on right side:
1 and 1/8"

Medium ( brake lights and VR wires) on right side:
7/8"

Small (reverse wires, coil, and gauge wires) on left side:
5/8"

Groove thicknesses (C) are all 1/16".

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Again, these are for my stock '69, and they fit well enough to be safe.

Robbie
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SixStringMadMan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whats the best way to clean the old grease out from front wheel bearings? Soak in purple power or similar? I have everything removed off the spindle, I did not remove the inner wheel bearings, left them in the hubs. Wanted to get everything cleaned and packed before my front brake parts show up.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SixStringMadMan wrote:
whats the best way to clean the old grease out from front wheel bearings? Soak in purple power or similar? I have everything removed off the spindle, I did not remove the inner wheel bearings, left them in the hubs. Wanted to get everything cleaned and packed before my front brake parts show up.


Soaking them in solvent and then blowing them out will do it. Don't spin the bearing with the air though. Once you have inspected the rollers and inner race for pitting then spray the bearing up with 3-in-1 oil or something similar to clean the last of the solvent off and to prevent rust. Wrap in the clean rag or paper towel and store in a dry place until ready to pack and use.

You actually do not need to clean them all the way unless you intend to inspect the inner race though. Just wipe them clean with rags or paper towels and then palm pack them and let the new grease force the old grease out from between the rollers.
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GMATech
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Can somebody with a late roof westy take this same picture with the roof and sliding door open. Maybe just a little bit lower looking right down the roof rail. I'm trying to mount my coolant pipes tonight and I don't want to have to dig out the roof and sliding door. Thanks in advance.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here you go:

door closed:
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door open:
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much for the speedy reply. If it's not to much trouble could you take one with the top closed as well? I think all the parts I got are going to be relatively painless and work. Very Happy

Edit: Sorry just re read it. I didn't word my first post very well, meant just the door.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

one moment....Wink
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here you go.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:
here you go.


You're the man, thanks so much
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GMATech wrote:
Stuartzickefoose wrote:
here you go.


You're the man, thanks so much


No prob, your welcome. Smile
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 6:42 am    Post subject: VIN Plate, M-Code Plate and Title Reply with quote

Question...VIN plate and title match but M-Code plate does not. Does that matter for DMV or resale?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:54 am    Post subject: Re: VIN Plate, M-Code Plate and Title Reply with quote

Dubskii wrote:
Question...VIN plate and title match but M-Code plate does not. Does that matter for DMV or resale?


Pictures of the plates would be cool.
How to post photos/How to post a photo in the Forums
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to pull the dis and coil off the bay and use on my 72 super. SVDA 034; I used the timing scale off the t-4 to mark 28 degrees btdc on the t-1 to set the timing hose off and plugged. Was running a vw 205an married to a 30/31 solex. Ran good going cross town and back today. I do that right? Wanna make sure.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

XXX/Rx/RnR wrote:
set the timing hose off and plugged.

At idle?
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok got another question on my rebuild of my 2L GE bus engine. As stated before I am replacing my cam with a solid stock grind webcam, I am reusing the rockers and arms from before as they are fine (may have been replaced when PO rebuilt...so I got a set of chromoly push rods and solid lifters from the type4store, and Im wondering if I can just use the measurements from my old pushrods or if the geometry will still be off even though I am doing everything stock. I also got the stock size piston and cylinder set from type4store and am reusing the crankshaft and rods.
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