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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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CurbRogerD wrote: |
Can I put Girling calipers on my 1977? I currently have ATE calipers. I'm replacing both. |
Yes, the holes on the spindles and line locations are the same. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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barefootwestie Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2005 Posts: 1551 Location: Johns Island, SC
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:39 am Post subject: Mechanical Fuel Pump |
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My mechanical fuel pump is still in place since the PO installed a electric pump. There is an engine tin that I'd like to remove to clean and paint, but the mechanical pump is in the way.
1. If I remove it temporarily, would oil flow out?
2. Is there a way to check the pump after removal to see if it is still good?[/s] _________________ My Bus Restoration Blog
https://myvolkswagenbus.com/
1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."
Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia |
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Skoolieman Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2011 Posts: 573 Location: Chattanooga TN
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:43 am Post subject: Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump |
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barefootwestie wrote: |
My mechanical fuel pump is still in place since the PO installed a electric pump. There is an engine tin that I'd like to remove to clean and paint, but the mechanical pump is in the way.
1. If I remove it temporarily, would oil flow out?
2. Is there a way to check the pump after removal to see if it is still good?[/s] |
Oil shouldn't run out unless you are running it while it is off, then some may spew out. First thing to check is the pushrod. you'll need to make sure it is there, not binding on the case and is the right length (you'll have to search for that)
I would take it apart and see if it moves smoothly and if the diaphragm is still intact. _________________ '69 Westfalia Camper~Cassidy
1600dp with H30/31 carb 009 distributor and alternator conversion |
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barefootwestie Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2005 Posts: 1551 Location: Johns Island, SC
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:46 am Post subject: |
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Thanks. It definitely wont be running... the top end is all apart. Ill check out the threads on the testing. Thanks again. _________________ My Bus Restoration Blog
https://myvolkswagenbus.com/
1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."
Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia |
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Thrasher22 Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Calgary, Canada
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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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Would I be putting unnecessary wear on the bus if I used a spare that was decently smaller than the rest? Logically (to me) I wouldn't think so, it would just wear the tire out faster, but I want to double check.
I've done too much body work to mount one on the front and want to put one in my cabinet, but to do so would need to shave a few inches off my current full size spare.
Currently I just drive around with it loose on the floor, which is a huge safety issue I'd like to change _________________ 1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Put it on a go for a drive, front and then back, then decide if that feeling is something you want to battle for 100 miles+ until you can get the real wheel fixed.
You won't "hurt" anything putting on a compact wheel, but it will make the bus drive funny and may be dangerously over the tire's load limit unless you find one for a truck. Long term it'll wear the spider gears in the differential if it's on the back, but for temporary use it's only the handling that will suffer. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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beatles4 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014 Posts: 400 Location: Miami
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Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:32 am Post subject: |
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I am a bit noobish and I think this qualifies as my first real question in this thread but how bad is the cardone master brake cylinder that advance auto part sells? I was asking my friend about some parts and his only answer was original german parts. I dont know if that means old stock german made that would have the rubber probably falling off by now. He said avoid brazilian parts like the plague and I have to imagine if the Brazilians had these cars running for so long things like brakes must not be catastrophically bad. Well anyway I was trying to see what I can get from advance auto, they have a store right by my house and they have these ridiculous $40 or $50 off orders of $100 all the time. Is this a bad master brake cylinder?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cardone-master-cylinder-remanufactured-11-1558/5803748-P |
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Thrasher22 Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Calgary, Canada
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Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:05 am Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Put it on a go for a drive, front and then back, then decide if that feeling is something you want to battle for 100 miles+ until you can get the real wheel fixed.
You won't "hurt" anything putting on a compact wheel, but it will make the bus drive funny and may be dangerously over the tire's load limit unless you find one for a truck. Long term it'll wear the spider gears in the differential if it's on the back, but for temporary use it's only the handling that will suffer. |
It would be purely just to limp to a tire shop, so I'll give it a shot. Thanks! _________________ 1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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beatles4 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014 Posts: 400 Location: Miami
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Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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I am looking to completely overhaul my brakes and I am starting with the rear. I was on busdepot and compiled this list
So far on my list I will be ordering
*drum
*shoes
*rubber lines
*spring kit
*wheel cylinders
*brake master
Then I found I should probably replace the wheel bearings and the seals for them. I saw this youtube video and he replaces some gasket and an other o ring. What would you call those so I can add them to the list of things to order?
Link
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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beatles4 wrote: |
I am looking to completely overhaul my brakes and I am starting with the rear. I was on busdepot and compiled this list
So far on my list I will be ordering
*drum
*shoes
*rubber lines
*spring kit
*wheel cylinders
*brake master
Then I found I should probably replace the wheel bearings and the seals for them. I saw this youtube video and he replaces some gasket and an other o ring. What would you call those so I can add them to the list of things to order? |
Why not just call Bus Depot and tell them what you are doing and just let them supply the seals and such. |
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Himejii Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2015 Posts: 124 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject: Why is it called a sending unit? |
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Why is it called a sending unit? Is it just because it "sends" the fuel level data to the gauge?
And how reliable is it? I just pulled my tank and the sending unit was covered in rust, but it mostly turned out to be deposited rust from the tank. It was actually really cool, because the negative-printed numbers on the unit had grown into positive/raised numbers in rust. I wish I'd taken a picture, because it'll take another 20 years for that to happen again! (<3 Science!)
Anyway, it was a PITA pulling the tank and I don't want to do it again just to replace the sender. Can I test it before it's installed? And if so, and it tests OK, is there any way to guestimate how long it will be good for?
Or should I just replace it as a precaution?
... Seems reasonable to assume, from the fact that so many people actually cut holes in their bus, that sending units are not the most reliable part. I'm not cutting a hole in my bus. _________________ 1978 Canadian Deluxe Campmobile |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:02 pm Post subject: Re: Why is it called a sending unit? |
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Himejii wrote: |
Why is it called a sending unit? Is it just because it "sends" the fuel level data to the gauge?
And how reliable is it? I just pulled my tank and the sending unit was covered in rust, but it mostly turned out to be deposited rust from the tank. It was actually really cool, because the negative-printed numbers on the unit had grown into positive/raised numbers in rust. I wish I'd taken a picture, because it'll take another 20 years for that to happen again! (<3 Science!)
Anyway, it was a PITA pulling the tank and I don't want to do it again just to replace the sender. Can I test it before it's installed? And if so, and it tests OK, is there any way to guestimate how long it will be good for?
Or should I just replace it as a precaution?
... Seems reasonable to assume, from the fact that so many people actually cut holes in their bus, that sending units are not the most reliable part. I'm not cutting a hole in my bus. |
VW specced where to cut the hole in the deck to make it easier to access the sender. Excellent idea in my opinion. My cover is more fire proof than the deck lid over the engine bay and can't be seen unless I have rolled up the carpet to access the engine to begin with. If I need to test my sender or to tweak it for some reason then the job is about as easy as any car out there. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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Sending units are very reliable (at least the OG German ones are), after 40 years everything gets a little old and worn, but with a comprehensive rebuild there's no reason not to expect anther 40 years out of it.
The early tube types are succeptible to corrosion from moisture in the gas tank or ethanol, there's a fix for the ground rivet that restores them to like new. The later arm type wears on the wires where the wiper contacts them, not hard to rewind the wire with new. They also suffer when the voltage regulator (vibrator) on the back of the gauge sticks, there's plans here for an electronic version to eliminate that risk. Corrosion also attacks the terminal rivets and wiper tension spring, keeping your gas clean and buying the good stuff pays off in ways you never imagined. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Estacaco Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2014 Posts: 105 Location: Dryden, Ontario Canada
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Why am I having such a problem finding emergency/parking brake cables for a 69 transporter without servo?
Tried JustKampers, Gowesty, CIP1, Concept1, aircooled.net. |
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wihr Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2010 Posts: 344 Location: PORTLAND, OR
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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They list them at Wolfsburg West. I do not know if they are in stock however. _________________ WIHR
1970 Campmobile "Van Ordinaire"
2009 Lincoln Town Car "Behemoth"
1969 Lambretta 150 DL "Nina"
1962 Matchless G 12 CS 650cc |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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Estacaco wrote: |
Why am I having such a problem finding emergency/parking brake cables for a 69 transporter without servo?
Tried JustKampers, Gowesty, CIP1, Concept1, aircooled.net. |
Bus Depot list them |
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Estacaco Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2014 Posts: 105 Location: Dryden, Ontario Canada
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Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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it seems the 70-71 with servo brake cables are the same as 69 without servo. |
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dirtkeeper Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2008 Posts: 3200 Location: Left of everywhere
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Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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I have a 71 bus with a defroster In the rear window . Does the ground wire just get screwed to the face of the door or does it go inside the headliner hinge and get screwed there? |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51128 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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dirtkeeper wrote: |
I have a 71 bus with a defroster In the rear window . Does the ground wire just get screwed to the face of the door or does it go inside the headliner hinge and get screwed there? |
It screws to the body near one of the hinge cover screws. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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beatles4 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014 Posts: 400 Location: Miami
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Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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I am rebuilding my sliding door mechanism because it has some sag to it and I need to apply some pressure to help it close in the back. I was on bus depot and came across this. I didn't have much in the way or results in searching it on this forum. Does anyone have them or at least tried them or am I wasting my money? The description on the product even cites sagging doors or hard to close doors.
http://www.busdepot.com/j18875
I also think I need one of these as well.
http://www.busdepot.com/211843368 |
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