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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51149 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:35 am Post subject: |
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911GT2 wrote: |
I want te keep the original US power plug of my Westy in tact. So my plan is to use an US plug and fit it on an EEC power cord.
Everything after the plug will be replaced so voltage will not an issue, but I can't seem te find the right plug (female) to plug into my westy.
Does anybody have any tips on vendors? Or the correct name for it so I can find it myself?
Thanks |
Sounds simple enough, you'll need either a North American 15 amp shore power cord that you cut the male end off and install the 220V plug on, or a 110V female plug you put on the end of a EU shore power cord.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/15-amp-female-to-30-amp-rv-male-pigtail-adapter/69612
In reality any heavy gauge household extension cord would work, http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Power-Conductor-Ou...nsion+cord
Just make sure you don't mix voltages since the system will now be 220V. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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911GT2 Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2013 Posts: 180 Location: Nederland
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:19 am Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
911GT2 wrote: |
I want te keep the original US power plug of my Westy in tact. So my plan is to use an US plug and fit it on an EEC power cord.
Everything after the plug will be replaced so voltage will not an issue, but I can't seem te find the right plug (female) to plug into my westy.
Does anybody have any tips on vendors? Or the correct name for it so I can find it myself?
Thanks |
Sounds simple enough, you'll need either a North American 15 amp shore power cord that you cut the male end off and install the 220V plug on, or a 110V female plug you put on the end of a EU shore power cord.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/15-amp-female-to-30-amp-rv-male-pigtail-adapter/69612
In reality any heavy gauge household extension cord would work, http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Power-Conductor-Ou...nsion+cord
Just make sure you don't mix voltages since the system will now be 220V. |
Thanks, I didn't know the power cords would suffice.
I bought this one (your links wouldn't ship worldwide) and I think I can make it work with that.
Himejii wrote: |
911GT2 wrote: |
I want te keep the original US power plug of my Westy in tact. So my plan is to use an US plug and fit it on an EEC power cord.
Everything after the plug will be replaced so voltage will not an issue, but I can't seem te find the right plug (female) to plug into my westy.
Does anybody have any tips on vendors? Or the correct name for it so I can find it myself?
Thanks |
Would it not be easier to just use a travel adapter? |
No, because the current on the european EEC is 230V and not 110V like in the US.
All other stuff works on 230V to (fridge, charger etc) |
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GeorgeL Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2006 Posts: 7346
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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911GT2 wrote: |
...All other stuff works on 230V to (fridge, charger etc) |
What are you doing about the receptacle inside the camper? Changing to a local pattern or are you going to try to adapt? |
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Himejii Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2015 Posts: 124 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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You said that everything after the plug is 220V, so all you need to convert is the prong shape, which a travel adapter would do. There are also some that convert voltage. _________________ 1978 Canadian Deluxe Campmobile
Last edited by Himejii on Sun Jul 26, 2015 8:44 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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hinkelsworth Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2009 Posts: 8 Location: hillsboro oregon
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 7:46 pm Post subject: 2L block question |
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Does anyone know what this cover is called? I cannot seem to find name for it anywhere.
On my block the previous owner stripped the holes and but then tapped them. They failed to drill the plate correctly making the holes two big and jagged therefore causing a small oil leak. I need to get a new plate but I cant figure out what to call it.
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50351
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Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:27 pm Post subject: Re: 2L block question |
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hinkelsworth wrote: |
Does anyone know what this cover is called? I cannot seem to find name for it anywhere.
On my block the previous owner stripped the holes and but then tapped them. They failed to drill the plate correctly making the holes two big and jagged therefore causing a small oil leak. I need to get a new plate but I cant figure out what to call it.
Thanks |
It is commonly called the Taco Plate, don't know what VW might have called it. I doubt if it is available new anywhere but possibly through the dealer parts system, if even there. There must be thousands of used ones out there though. You could also go to a place like Pelican Parts and get one of the Porsche style taco plates that are set up to take an oil temperature sender.
Have you tried just finding a couple of washers that will cover the gaps that were left and then use RTV silicone to seal them? |
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hinkelsworth Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2009 Posts: 8 Location: hillsboro oregon
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:06 am Post subject: Re: 2L block question |
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Wildthings wrote: |
hinkelsworth wrote: |
Does anyone know what this cover is called? I cannot seem to find name for it anywhere.
On my block the previous owner stripped the holes and but then tapped them. They failed to drill the plate correctly making the holes two big and jagged therefore causing a small oil leak. I need to get a new plate but I cant figure out what to call it.
Thanks |
It is commonly called the Taco Plate, don't know what VW might have called it. I doubt if it is available new anywhere but possibly through the dealer parts system, if even there. There must be thousands of used ones out there though. You could also go to a place like Pelican Parts and get one of the Porsche style taco plates that are set up to take an oil temperature sender.
Have you tried just finding a couple of washers that will cover the gaps that were left and then use RTV silicone to seal them? |
Thanks for the info... Taco plate, i recall that now that you say it.
The problem i am having is the little ledge on the side of the taco plate is in the way for a larger washer. So I have to rim of the edge of the washer so it fits.
Using this RTV silicone, is it just something you spread on before you put down the bolt and washers? |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50351
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:45 am Post subject: Re: 2L block question |
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hinkelsworth wrote: |
Thanks for the info... Taco plate, i recall that now that you say it.
The problem i am having is the little ledge on the side of the taco plate is in the way for a larger washer. So I have to rim of the edge of the washer so it fits.
Using this RTV silicone, is it just something you spread on before you put down the bolt and washers? |
Silicone is available in squeeze tubes in the automotive chemicals area of any autoparts or hardware store. I personally like the high temperature copper stuff for most repair work. Just clean the area well and smear a small amount on the cover making sure there is a bit on the threads and then install the washer and nut. You could add a tad more under the nut before installing it as well.
For myself I also use silicone on the o-ring that seals the cover to the engine case. Again clean everything well and then apply silicone to the cover where the o-ring sit and the apply more silicone to the o-ring itself and a very thin smear to the sealing surface on the case. We are talking a very small amount of silicone overall here as you don't want globs of it being squeezed into the crankcase and down the road someday clogging the oil screen. |
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BusPriest Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2014 Posts: 420 Location: Denver, Co
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:38 am Post subject: |
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Follow up stupid question:
I thought the centerhole where the strainer is was the taco plate. Now I know.
Q: where is the best place to drain oil from? Ive done it from the single bolt on the left side of this picture as well as once from the center strainer plate, but know im thinking about the bus on jacks and that with the engine leaning forward, it might be better to do it from the Taco plate? _________________ 1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest. |
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smitty1976bus Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2013 Posts: 369 Location: Cape Cod
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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Hi all,
Sorry for all the stupid questions, ha, and really appreciate all the great answers; but I have one more quick one. What is the part called (picutre below). It's attached to the air intake distributor, and is some kind of valve or vacuum thingy. I just can't find it anywhere in my Bently manual, and I may have to buy a new one, and have no idea what its called.
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50351
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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smitty1976bus wrote: |
Hi all,
Sorry for all the stupid questions, ha, and really appreciate all the great answers; but I have one more quick one. What is the part called (picutre below). It's attached to the air intake distributor, and is some kind of valve or vacuum thingy. I just can't find it anywhere in my Bently manual, and I may have to buy a new one, and have no idea what its called.
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This is part of the EGR system. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50351
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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BusPriest wrote: |
Follow up stupid question:
I thought the centerhole where the strainer is was the taco plate. Now I know.
Q: where is the best place to drain oil from? Ive done it from the single bolt on the left side of this picture as well as once from the center strainer plate, but know im thinking about the bus on jacks and that with the engine leaning forward, it might be better to do it from the Taco plate? |
The single "bolt" is the drain plug. IMO it is the only thing you need to remove to the drain the oil. When you first buy a rig it would be good to pull the cover over the oil pump intake screen to see what might be lurking in there, but on subsequent oil changes this just isn't warranted, except for once every 50-100K miles if even then. As for the taco plate, I never removed it except to replace it's o-ring when I am resealing an aged motor.
It is not important to get every last drop of oil out of the sump when changing the oil. It would better serve you to reinstall the drain plug a minute after you first pull it than to try and get that last drop of old oil out by doing all kinds of crazy contortions. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
smitty1976bus wrote: |
What is the part called |
This is part of the EGR system. |
If you do not have to smog it in your county. I would not worry about it. It is rare to find one with a good diaphragm that works.
Tcash |
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jtauxe Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 5780 Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:14 am Post subject: |
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smitty1976bus wrote: |
Just did the test, and looks like 3 out of 4 joints are ok. The side with the torn boot doesn't twist smoothly, it could have some flat spots on the bearings inside, or more likely, a bunch of dirt. It will twist up until a point then it gets stuck up. May have to buy one new one; unless, are there any good rebuild kits out there?
-Smitty |
You don't generally rebuild CV joints, you have to replace them. Since you're going to be diving in to the others anyway, I'd just clean up the whole mess and do an inspection of everything. Keep track of the orientations and positions of stuff when you take it apart. I'd recommend new bolts and the special dished grooved washers when you bolt these back on.
I find it quite handy to have a spare set of nice rebuilt axles hanging around. Then when I need to do a replacement, I just bolt on the cleaned up ones, then redo the old ones at my convenience. (Same goes for distributors.) _________________ John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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jtauxe Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 5780 Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:15 am Post subject: |
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beatles4 wrote: |
Well this is what I have
and this looks like a 67 split door handle.
Does it still look like it would work or am I completely off?
It looks like instead of the trigger opening the door, pressing on the key would push it as well to open it but I am sure you guys with years upon years more of experience would know more than me. |
I don't believe that those are interchangeable. Also, what you have is broken (perhaps you know that). Why not replace it with another of the same design? They are available in the classifieds. _________________ John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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smitty1976bus Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2013 Posts: 369 Location: Cape Cod
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Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Tcash wrote: |
Wildthings wrote: |
smitty1976bus wrote: |
What is the part called |
This is part of the EGR system. |
If you do not have to smog it in your county. I would not worry about it. It is rare to find one with a good diaphragm that works.
Tcash |
Awesome, that's probably why is crimped closed. I'll just keep it that way. Thanks Tcash! |
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beatles4 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014 Posts: 400 Location: Miami
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Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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jtauxe wrote: |
beatles4 wrote: |
Well this is what I have
and this looks like a 67 split door handle.
Does it still look like it would work or am I completely off?
It looks like instead of the trigger opening the door, pressing on the key would push it as well to open it but I am sure you guys with years upon years more of experience would know more than me. |
I don't believe that those are interchangeable. Also, what you have is broken (perhaps you know that). Why not replace it with another of the same design? They are available in the classifieds. |
Yah, I am aware they are broken that is what led me to removing them from the car. I figured while I had them out why not put on better to me door handles. But I guess it doesn't matter much, I already have lined up a pair of original door handles that are in working condition so I can swap over those triggers to my door handles. _________________ Click to view image
http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-27771.png |
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PLF-Blue Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2014 Posts: 327 Location: Nevada, tahoe, and elsewhere
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Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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I have exhaust studs on order to replace the one that sheared off. I understand the nuts get torqued to a max of 16 ft/lbs when reinstalling my F pipe.
Am i to loctite the studs or anything prior to reassembly? (They came out shockingly easy...almost hand turn) _________________ ..."I live in my own little world. but it's ok, they know me here." -L. Myracle |
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palo Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2013 Posts: 4 Location: PEI Canada
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:18 am Post subject: |
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hey does anyone know how many L or gal a bay fuel tank actually holds? i'm just trying to establish a mental factor to apply to my fuel guage at around half I could only get 20L in. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50351
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:31 am Post subject: |
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palo wrote: |
hey does anyone know how many L or gal a bay fuel tank actually holds? i'm just trying to establish a mental factor to apply to my fuel guage at around half I could only get 20L in. |
Been here?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/type2.php |
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