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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

911GT2 wrote:
I want te keep the original US power plug of my Westy in tact. So my plan is to use an US plug and fit it on an EEC power cord.

Everything after the plug will be replaced so voltage will not an issue, but I can't seem te find the right plug (female) to plug into my westy.

Does anybody have any tips on vendors? Or the correct name for it so I can find it myself?

Thanks

Sounds simple enough, you'll need either a North American 15 amp shore power cord that you cut the male end off and install the 220V plug on, or a 110V female plug you put on the end of a EU shore power cord.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/15-amp-female-to-30-amp-rv-male-pigtail-adapter/69612
In reality any heavy gauge household extension cord would work, http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Power-Conductor-Ou...nsion+cord

Just make sure you don't mix voltages since the system will now be 220V.
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911GT2
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
911GT2 wrote:
I want te keep the original US power plug of my Westy in tact. So my plan is to use an US plug and fit it on an EEC power cord.

Everything after the plug will be replaced so voltage will not an issue, but I can't seem te find the right plug (female) to plug into my westy.

Does anybody have any tips on vendors? Or the correct name for it so I can find it myself?

Thanks

Sounds simple enough, you'll need either a North American 15 amp shore power cord that you cut the male end off and install the 220V plug on, or a 110V female plug you put on the end of a EU shore power cord.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/15-amp-female-to-30-amp-rv-male-pigtail-adapter/69612
In reality any heavy gauge household extension cord would work, http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Power-Conductor-Ou...nsion+cord

Just make sure you don't mix voltages since the system will now be 220V.


Thanks, I didn't know the power cords would suffice.

I bought this one (your links wouldn't ship worldwide) and I think I can make it work with that.

Himejii wrote:
911GT2 wrote:
I want te keep the original US power plug of my Westy in tact. So my plan is to use an US plug and fit it on an EEC power cord.

Everything after the plug will be replaced so voltage will not an issue, but I can't seem te find the right plug (female) to plug into my westy.

Does anybody have any tips on vendors? Or the correct name for it so I can find it myself?

Thanks


Would it not be easier to just use a travel adapter?

No, because the current on the european EEC is 230V and not 110V like in the US.

All other stuff works on 230V to (fridge, charger etc)
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GeorgeL
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

911GT2 wrote:
...All other stuff works on 230V to (fridge, charger etc)


What are you doing about the receptacle inside the camper? Changing to a local pattern or are you going to try to adapt?
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Himejii
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said that everything after the plug is 220V, so all you need to convert is the prong shape, which a travel adapter would do. There are also some that convert voltage.
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Last edited by Himejii on Sun Jul 26, 2015 8:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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hinkelsworth
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: 2L block question Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone know what this cover is called? I cannot seem to find name for it anywhere.

On my block the previous owner stripped the holes and but then tapped them. They failed to drill the plate correctly making the holes two big and jagged therefore causing a small oil leak. I need to get a new plate but I cant figure out what to call it.
Thanks
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:27 pm    Post subject: Re: 2L block question Reply with quote

hinkelsworth wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone know what this cover is called? I cannot seem to find name for it anywhere.

On my block the previous owner stripped the holes and but then tapped them. They failed to drill the plate correctly making the holes two big and jagged therefore causing a small oil leak. I need to get a new plate but I cant figure out what to call it.
Thanks


It is commonly called the Taco Plate, don't know what VW might have called it. I doubt if it is available new anywhere but possibly through the dealer parts system, if even there. There must be thousands of used ones out there though. You could also go to a place like Pelican Parts and get one of the Porsche style taco plates that are set up to take an oil temperature sender.

Have you tried just finding a couple of washers that will cover the gaps that were left and then use RTV silicone to seal them?
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hinkelsworth
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:06 am    Post subject: Re: 2L block question Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
hinkelsworth wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does anyone know what this cover is called? I cannot seem to find name for it anywhere.

On my block the previous owner stripped the holes and but then tapped them. They failed to drill the plate correctly making the holes two big and jagged therefore causing a small oil leak. I need to get a new plate but I cant figure out what to call it.
Thanks


It is commonly called the Taco Plate, don't know what VW might have called it. I doubt if it is available new anywhere but possibly through the dealer parts system, if even there. There must be thousands of used ones out there though. You could also go to a place like Pelican Parts and get one of the Porsche style taco plates that are set up to take an oil temperature sender.

Have you tried just finding a couple of washers that will cover the gaps that were left and then use RTV silicone to seal them?


Thanks for the info... Taco plate, i recall that now that you say it.
The problem i am having is the little ledge on the side of the taco plate is in the way for a larger washer. So I have to rim of the edge of the washer so it fits.

Using this RTV silicone, is it just something you spread on before you put down the bolt and washers?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:45 am    Post subject: Re: 2L block question Reply with quote

hinkelsworth wrote:
Thanks for the info... Taco plate, i recall that now that you say it.
The problem i am having is the little ledge on the side of the taco plate is in the way for a larger washer. So I have to rim of the edge of the washer so it fits.

Using this RTV silicone, is it just something you spread on before you put down the bolt and washers?

Silicone is available in squeeze tubes in the automotive chemicals area of any autoparts or hardware store. I personally like the high temperature copper stuff for most repair work. Just clean the area well and smear a small amount on the cover making sure there is a bit on the threads and then install the washer and nut. You could add a tad more under the nut before installing it as well.

For myself I also use silicone on the o-ring that seals the cover to the engine case. Again clean everything well and then apply silicone to the cover where the o-ring sit and the apply more silicone to the o-ring itself and a very thin smear to the sealing surface on the case. We are talking a very small amount of silicone overall here as you don't want globs of it being squeezed into the crankcase and down the road someday clogging the oil screen.
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BusPriest
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Follow up stupid question:

I thought the centerhole where the strainer is was the taco plate. Now I know.
Q: where is the best place to drain oil from? Ive done it from the single bolt on the left side of this picture as well as once from the center strainer plate, but know im thinking about the bus on jacks and that with the engine leaning forward, it might be better to do it from the Taco plate?
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smitty1976bus
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,
Sorry for all the stupid questions, ha, and really appreciate all the great answers; but I have one more quick one. What is the part called (picutre below). It's attached to the air intake distributor, and is some kind of valve or vacuum thingy. I just can't find it anywhere in my Bently manual, and I may have to buy a new one, and have no idea what its called.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

smitty1976bus wrote:
Hi all,
Sorry for all the stupid questions, ha, and really appreciate all the great answers; but I have one more quick one. What is the part called (picutre below). It's attached to the air intake distributor, and is some kind of valve or vacuum thingy. I just can't find it anywhere in my Bently manual, and I may have to buy a new one, and have no idea what its called.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is part of the EGR system.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusPriest wrote:
Follow up stupid question:

I thought the centerhole where the strainer is was the taco plate. Now I know.
Q: where is the best place to drain oil from? Ive done it from the single bolt on the left side of this picture as well as once from the center strainer plate, but know im thinking about the bus on jacks and that with the engine leaning forward, it might be better to do it from the Taco plate?


The single "bolt" is the drain plug. IMO it is the only thing you need to remove to the drain the oil. When you first buy a rig it would be good to pull the cover over the oil pump intake screen to see what might be lurking in there, but on subsequent oil changes this just isn't warranted, except for once every 50-100K miles if even then. As for the taco plate, I never removed it except to replace it's o-ring when I am resealing an aged motor.

It is not important to get every last drop of oil out of the sump when changing the oil. It would better serve you to reinstall the drain plug a minute after you first pull it than to try and get that last drop of old oil out by doing all kinds of crazy contortions.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
smitty1976bus wrote:
What is the part called


This is part of the EGR system.


If you do not have to smog it in your county. I would not worry about it. It is rare to find one with a good diaphragm that works.

Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

smitty1976bus wrote:
Just did the test, and looks like 3 out of 4 joints are ok. The side with the torn boot doesn't twist smoothly, it could have some flat spots on the bearings inside, or more likely, a bunch of dirt. It will twist up until a point then it gets stuck up. May have to buy one new one; unless, are there any good rebuild kits out there?
-Smitty

You don't generally rebuild CV joints, you have to replace them. Since you're going to be diving in to the others anyway, I'd just clean up the whole mess and do an inspection of everything. Keep track of the orientations and positions of stuff when you take it apart. I'd recommend new bolts and the special dished grooved washers when you bolt these back on.

I find it quite handy to have a spare set of nice rebuilt axles hanging around. Then when I need to do a replacement, I just bolt on the cleaned up ones, then redo the old ones at my convenience. (Same goes for distributors.)
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beatles4 wrote:
Well this is what I have

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and this looks like a 67 split door handle.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does it still look like it would work or am I completely off?

It looks like instead of the trigger opening the door, pressing on the key would push it as well to open it but I am sure you guys with years upon years more of experience would know more than me.

I don't believe that those are interchangeable. Also, what you have is broken (perhaps you know that). Why not replace it with another of the same design? They are available in the classifieds.
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smitty1976bus
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
smitty1976bus wrote:
What is the part called


This is part of the EGR system.


If you do not have to smog it in your county. I would not worry about it. It is rare to find one with a good diaphragm that works.

Tcash


Awesome, that's probably why is crimped closed. I'll just keep it that way. Thanks Tcash!
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jtauxe wrote:
beatles4 wrote:
Well this is what I have

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and this looks like a 67 split door handle.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Does it still look like it would work or am I completely off?

It looks like instead of the trigger opening the door, pressing on the key would push it as well to open it but I am sure you guys with years upon years more of experience would know more than me.

I don't believe that those are interchangeable. Also, what you have is broken (perhaps you know that). Why not replace it with another of the same design? They are available in the classifieds.


Yah, I am aware they are broken that is what led me to removing them from the car. I figured while I had them out why not put on better to me door handles. But I guess it doesn't matter much, I already have lined up a pair of original door handles that are in working condition so I can swap over those triggers to my door handles.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have exhaust studs on order to replace the one that sheared off. I understand the nuts get torqued to a max of 16 ft/lbs when reinstalling my F pipe.
Am i to loctite the studs or anything prior to reassembly? (They came out shockingly easy...almost hand turn)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey does anyone know how many L or gal a bay fuel tank actually holds? i'm just trying to establish a mental factor to apply to my fuel guage Very Happy at around half I could only get 20L in.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

palo wrote:
hey does anyone know how many L or gal a bay fuel tank actually holds? i'm just trying to establish a mental factor to apply to my fuel guage Very Happy at around half I could only get 20L in.


Been here?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/type2.php
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