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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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 Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Install looks good. As wildthings said maybe you got a bad shock. I would not be afraid to drive it and isolate which side is making the noise. Or pull both shocks off and with bars or screw drivers in both ends. Stand on one end and push and pull with the other. Test each shocks full motion and compare to each other.
Good Luck
Tcash |
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Pahdmeister
Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2010
Posts: 39
Location: No. Cal.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:27 am Post subject: |
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| Tcash wrote: |
Install looks good. As wildthings said maybe you got a bad shock. I would not be afraid to drive it and isolate which side is making the noise.
Good Luck
Tcash |
OK problem solved and these postings definitely belong in this stupid question forum.
So I slowly drove the 3 miles to mechanics shop (bottomed out once badly -  ) and he took one look and said the sleeves looked long and asked if I had installed the rears on the front.
Of course I knew there were two sizes, but had I doubled checked and confirmed I had the correct pair out to install?
Well no it turns out - What I had done is make an assumption that the pair which were shipped in a single box which was shorter than the other individual boxes were the smaller set.
Talk about feeling stupid. Never once opened up the other set of boxes to compare. Now that is being really non-thinking. Never went to check the model numbers or even thought to double double check in the four days of prep work and all. Never even compared the sleeves with the old KYB's Now that is all very very stupid.
So now that I've got that part figured out, I'm concerned about having damaged the rear pair. Any thoughts about that?
_________________
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/o hydraulic lifters (5th Owner - currently has 140K miles).
'74 KGhia Convertible (2nd Owner bought in 1986 - currently has 105K miles).
'80 Rabbit Convertible (sold).
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/hydraulic lifters (2nd Owner- bought with 3K miles on it. Gave it away (practically) 163K miles later w/o ever needing a valve job.
Pahd sounds like Maude. Daughter's nickname for the old man (short for padre). |
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Pahdmeister
Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2010
Posts: 39
Location: No. Cal.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:41 am Post subject: |
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| Brian wrote: |
| At least you have a nicely coated undercarriage |
Thanks Brian!
That was the overall project undertaken. Just did the front so far. Will post elsewhere once I redo the shocks and finish the rears this coming weekend.
_________________
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/o hydraulic lifters (5th Owner - currently has 140K miles).
'74 KGhia Convertible (2nd Owner bought in 1986 - currently has 105K miles).
'80 Rabbit Convertible (sold).
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/hydraulic lifters (2nd Owner- bought with 3K miles on it. Gave it away (practically) 163K miles later w/o ever needing a valve job.
Pahd sounds like Maude. Daughter's nickname for the old man (short for padre). |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51128
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:57 am Post subject: |
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Well... that explains everything, props to you for having the stones to admit your mistake, it may help someone in the future. Glad to hear it's fixed.
| Pahdmeister wrote: |
| So now that I've got that part figured out, I'm concerned about having damaged the rear pair. Any thoughts about that? |
Not much you can do but run them and find out, it won't take long for any issues to become apparent.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 1:47 pm Post subject: |
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What I had done is make an assumption that the pair which were shipped in a single box which was shorter than the other individual boxes were the smaller set.
Sounds logical to me. Iv'e done the same thing. Luckily the rear shocks had a stud on the top. So I could not mount them on the front in my case.
No worries about the shocks. Run em.
Good going
Tcash |
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Pahdmeister
Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2010
Posts: 39
Location: No. Cal.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
Well... that explains everything, props to you for having the stones to admit your mistake, it may help someone in the future. Glad to hear it's fixed.
| Pahdmeister wrote: |
| So now that I've got that part figured out, I'm concerned about having damaged the rear pair. Any thoughts about that? |
Not much you can do but run them and find out, it won't take long for any issues to become apparent. |
Just finished swapping em out and all is fine in front now although I will find out more tonight when I drive to the airport- lol.
But I think when driving to the mechanic shop this AM (sloowly) and I bottomed out on a xxxxxhump in the road that I didn't see. I broke one of the rear shocks. The gear to engage doesn't work on one. So I think I messed up a bit. Going to continue with my work schedule to get the rear wheel wells cleaned and painted this weekend, but think I will just put the old ones back on for now.
Going to write Koni a letter and explain how I screwed up and find out how much to repair. Prolly might as well just buy another one for the cost of shipping and repairs. My bad. Will write this up when sharing in the what have you done lately topic as a reminder to "check the top cylinder size against existing". What a rookie mistake. Live and learn. Peace.
And thank you all for the help and support and all.
Really appreciated.
Pahd
_________________
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/o hydraulic lifters (5th Owner - currently has 140K miles).
'74 KGhia Convertible (2nd Owner bought in 1986 - currently has 105K miles).
'80 Rabbit Convertible (sold).
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/hydraulic lifters (2nd Owner- bought with 3K miles on it. Gave it away (practically) 163K miles later w/o ever needing a valve job.
Pahd sounds like Maude. Daughter's nickname for the old man (short for padre). |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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Pahd, way to own up to it. Many of us make mistakes and never admit them publicly… 
I'm interested to see what Koni says; their lifetime warranty seems nice, but nobody on here (to my knowledge) has ever needed to use it.
Robbie
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Pahdmeister
Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2010
Posts: 39
Location: No. Cal.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 7:17 am Post subject: |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
Pahd, way to own up to it. Many of us make mistakes and never admit them publicly…
I'm interested to see what Koni says; their lifetime warranty seems nice, but nobody on here (to my knowledge) has ever needed to use it.
Robbie |
Thanks Robbie.
I acknowledged to Koni in my email that I damaged them and did not even mention the word warranty as the situation isn't applicable. Just asked them what it will cost to have them repaired so I can figure out next steps. Bummed but moving forward.
_________________
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/o hydraulic lifters (5th Owner - currently has 140K miles).
'74 KGhia Convertible (2nd Owner bought in 1986 - currently has 105K miles).
'80 Rabbit Convertible (sold).
'78 Riveria FI 2.0 w/hydraulic lifters (2nd Owner- bought with 3K miles on it. Gave it away (practically) 163K miles later w/o ever needing a valve job.
Pahd sounds like Maude. Daughter's nickname for the old man (short for padre). |
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beatles4
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Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Yay me. I got my new carb in my bus and it runs awesome. My question now is what is the recommended way to check revolutions? Am I better off buying a tachometer for the cluster and putting it in or just getting a timing light with a tachometer built in. Is a tachometer on the dash ever really necessary?
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1967250s
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Joined: May 02, 2007
Posts: 2137
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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Millions of VWs' ran without tachs for millions of miles. Just know your shift points.
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'72 Elm Green Deluxe |
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beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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| 1967250s wrote: |
| Millions of VWs' ran without tachs for millions of miles. Just know your shift points. |
While that is true that doesn't necessarily mean that is ideal either. I think my plan is to get a good timing light that has advance and tach built in. Ill just keep my eye out for a tach for my gauge cluster that I actually like. Justkampers seems to have one that matches my speedometer.
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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I would get a test meter, one of those all in ones that test voltage, dwell and rpms. Rev your motor around and listen to the rpms. And yes, buy a nice timing light, not one of the HF $30 ones.
I like having a tach. But I usually go off of feel. I love my JustKampers tach though, it's rad.
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Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
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beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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oh but I do have an actual quick question. I replaced all related brake components on my bus and for some reason it pulls to the left. My wheel cylinders are not leaking, fluid has not dropped over the course of a month, pedal is as hard as a rock and ever wheel has been adjusted properly. I still can't quite figure out why it pulls to the left. Obviously this means it is the passenger side and if I had to guess I would assume front.
I was thinking it had to do with improper brake bleeding but my pedal is as hard as a rock. Rubber lines looked rather new and don't seem to be swelling. My next step is to take off the drum and have my dad press the brake pedal and inspect but I wanted to ask here what would be the next suggestion.
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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Don't do that. Or do it and learn why you shouldn't 
I would rebleed it. Your right side might not be getting any fluid.
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Wash your hands
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'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
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beatles4
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Brian wrote: |
Don't do that. Or do it and learn why you shouldn't
I would rebleed it. Your right side might not be getting any fluid. |
Yah moments after I typed that out I realized that it would force the cylinders out of the wheel cylinders and I would need 2 new wheel cylinders. Ill see about re bleeding that side but I seem to recall that it bled well before. If bleeding doesn't do it what else then should I do?
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Brian
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Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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beatles4
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Joined: January 26, 2014
Posts: 400
Location: Miami
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| If the pedal is "hard as a rock" then something isn't moving when it should. My guess is that your rears aren't doing anything and thus when the fronts are applied they pull easily to one side. Drive down a dirt road at maybe 20 mph and try to lock the wheels. They all should lock easily. |
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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K I actually have a good question.
Why should I not connect my headlights to a capacitor? I do not have stock headlights nor wiring and have high output lights/stereo/etc. When my idle gets below 1k the lights dim. If I put it on my cap, wouldn't that stop that?
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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Have kind of a random question for you guys, so far i've not been able to find any info on this thing at all, little off topic besides the fact I plan to use it for my parts for my buggy build but I inherited and old blasting cabinet from my grandfather, finally brought it home and cleaned it up, only one problem.. no idea how its supposed to work. There is no hopper, no instructions, some missing parts... anyone seen anything like this before or know how its supposed to collect and feed sand back to the gun? It's really heavy duty and old so i'm a little hesitant to just cut a hole in the bottom of it but I may end up having to... any ideas?
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