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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50353
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 Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 1:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| cdxnolan wrote: |
https://youtu.be/ybRffMb7UgY
My timing seems to be jittery, jumping forward and back. While driving, there is loss of power and stumbling on acceleration and art constant speed. Ideas? |
Make sure that all the fiber and metal thrust washers are in place between the dog gear on the end of the dizzy shaft and the dizzy body. If the gear moves up and down more than a smiggen then you have thrust washers missing either outside or inside the distributor.
You also need to verify that the dog is fitted properly into the slot on the drive. If you don't get them mated you may still be able to get the engine to run, but you will have everything in a bind so that the timing jumps all over the place.
You may also want to lube the upper bushing in the distributor. When I have my distributor out to change the points I lay it on its side and work oil into the hole in the side with the idea that the lube will reach the upper bushing more readily this way than when the dizzy is upright and installed.
Do add a few drops of oil to the felt under the rotor if you have not done so, this oil lubes the mechanical advance mechanism. There are other distributor lube points shown in the manual as well. |
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cdxnolan
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Joined: April 07, 2015
Posts: 60
Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:42 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| cdxnolan wrote: |
https://youtu.be/ybRffMb7UgY
My timing seems to be jittery, jumping forward and back. While driving, there is loss of power and stumbling on acceleration and art constant speed. Ideas? |
Your video link does not work.
A little info would yelp
Bus
Year
Engine Type Type I or Type IV
Distributor numbers and manufacturer
Carburetor make model or is it FI
Start with a complete tune up.
Set
Valves Lifters Hydraulic or Solid ?
Plugs
Dwell - Lubing the Distributor
Timing=28* hoses off at full advance
Good luck
Tcash |
68 camper with t1 engine
009 Bosch
Weber progressive 32/36
Just did valves, might be plugs because they are a few thousand miles old and engine has been running rich? Need to check dwell but away from bus now... Dist is lubes and timing is right
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cdxnolan
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Joined: April 07, 2015
Posts: 60
Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 8:19 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| cdxnolan wrote: |
https://youtu.be/ybRffMb7UgY
My timing seems to be jittery, jumping forward and back. While driving, there is loss of power and stumbling on acceleration and art constant speed. Ideas? |
Make sure that all the fiber and metal thrust washers are in place between the dog gear on the end of the dizzy shaft and the dizzy body. If the gear moves up and down more than a smiggen then you have thrust washers missing either outside or inside the distributor.
You also need to verify that the dog is fitted properly into the slot on the drive. If you don't get them mated you may still be able to get the engine to run, but you will have everything in a bind so that the timing jumps all over the place.
You may also want to lube the upper bushing in the distributor. When I have my distributor out to change the points I lay it on its side and work oil into the hole in the side with the idea that the lube will reach the upper bushing more readily this way than when the dizzy is upright and installed.
Do add a few drops of oil to the felt under the rotor if you have not done so, this oil lubes the mechanical advance mechanism. There are other distributor lube points shown in the manual as well. |
Any info on dog gear? Google search yields pet supplies
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 9:17 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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What makes you think it is timing?
Take the Dist. cap off and grab ahold of the rotor. Turn it clockwise untill it stops, then release it. It should move freely in both directions with no binding. Know pull up and down on the rotor. Is there a lot of up and down play in the dist shaft?
Put your timing light on it. Increase and decrease the rpm while watching the mark. The mark should move smoothly through the rpm changes and not momentarily get stuck.
Could be a fuel problem.
Change the fuel filter. Might be one hidden under the bus as well.
Drain the gas tank and Clean the fuel tank strainer.
Good luck
Tcash |
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
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| Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:52 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| cdxnolan wrote: |
Any info on dog gear? Google search yields pet supplies |
A dog gear is the course set of teeth on the end of a shaft used to lock two shafts to each other.
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Tcash
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 12:15 pm Post subject: Pie shaped cutout in the hub flange |
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What is the Pie shaped cutout in the hub flange for?
Thanks
Tcash
Last edited by Tcash on Mon Nov 30, 2015 1:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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busdaddy
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 1:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So you can wrangle the brake shoes over it when they are assembled with thier springs as a unit.
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airschooled
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Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12728
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 10:56 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Huh. I've always wondered if it was enough of a cutout to affect balance. I'm sure VW considered it; perhaps it's just close enough to the ale not to matter.
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cdxnolan
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Posts: 60
Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:40 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Well, I replaced the plugs and filter, put conditioner in the tank, checked the points, checked the timing and advance, checked the play in the rotor. I don't think it's a poorly installed distributor because the bus ran okay until a few days ago.
The problem remains. When I accelerate, there is no power at low rpms, at mid rpms it gains power but stutters, and at high rpms it loses power and continues stuttering. Fuel pump? Dirty carb? Choke on the fritz? On that last point: the choke was disabled by PO, and as I'm trying to re enable it, I've removed the choke cover/spring assembly, so the rod is exposed and unattached. Would that be the stupid move that is causing all this?
Edit: I just replaced the choke assembly, and the problem persists. Additional clue: I THINK plugs 2 and 4 were ashy (rich) when I removed them, where as 1 and 3 were nice and brown. I may have hallucinated this, but if it jibes with anyone's theory, well...
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cdxnolan
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Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:07 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Is there a way to test fuel pressure without gauge?
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| cdxnolan wrote: |
| Is there a way to test fuel pressure without gauge? |
You can only check the delivery capacity (volume) of the pump.
Pull the hose off the fuel pump from the gas tank. Gas should be flowing good. If it is not. Time to clean the tank strainer.
Another sign of low fuel pressure, is if it runs good while parked. But when you get it out on the road it acts up.
Good luck
Tcash |
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kreemoweet
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Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 3:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| What is the Pie shaped cutout in the hub flange for? |
It allows access to the bolts at the adjuster block, and the bolt holding the wheel cylinder on (up thru '71).
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airschooled
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| kreemoweet wrote: |
It allows access to the bolts at the adjuster block, and the bolt holding the wheel cylinder on (up thru '71). |
Huh?
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Jim Bear
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| Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 9:14 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Everett,
Will we ever get a Subaru swap specific section? Just wondering....
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cdxnolan
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Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 12:37 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I think I have an air leak in my intake manifold. One can check this using wd40 or propane, yes? But the catch is: when I spray either or both into the carb throat, there is no effect on rpms. What gives?
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50353
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 12:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| cdxnolan wrote: |
| I think I have an air leak in my intake manifold. One can check this using wd40 or propane, yes? But the catch is: when I spray either or both into the carb throat, there is no effect on rpms. What gives? |
If your mixture is close to stochiometric then adding more fuel isn't going to do much. |
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JoeDigs
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Joined: November 30, 2015
Posts: 4
Location: Tampa
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 1:53 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Has anyone figured out a smart way to replace a broken handle on the icebox cabinet door? I have carefully peeled back a bit of the icebox plastic lining on the door but I didn't want to continue until I asked you guys if there was a trick to it, before I damaged the plastic. I couldn't see the heads of the screws behind the plastic lining. Those 3 or 4 metal pieces that are behind the seal are just a type of mounting hardware for the seal with old glue on them
Thanks for the help!
Joe |
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cdxnolan
Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2015
Posts: 60
Location: Massachusetts
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 2:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| cdxnolan wrote: |
| I think I have an air leak in my intake manifold. One can check this using wd40 or propane, yes? But the catch is: when I spray either or both into the carb throat, there is no effect on rpms. What gives? |
If your mixture is close to stochiometric then adding more fuel isn't going to do much. |
Bingo! I leaned out the mixture via the screw on the back of the carb, and it started responding to propane gas down the carb throat. Good call wildthings. Still, I couldn't find any leaks in the manifold that way. The exhaust is still very rich, it's fouling plugs 1/2 but not 3/4, it dies on acceleration under no choke, and will accelerate under full choke but has little 'blips' of momentary power loss, like split seconds.
009 dist and Weber progressive.
I've set valves points and timing, set the choke, checked for spark and compression, verified TDC and gas to carb, cleaned the carb out, new fuel lines and filter, fresh gas, new plugs... I'm pulling my hair out here. Any ideas?
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 3:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| cdxnolan wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
| cdxnolan wrote: |
| I think I have an air leak in my intake manifold. One can check this using wd40 or propane, yes? But the catch is: when I spray either or both into the carb throat, there is no effect on rpms. What gives? |
If your mixture is close to stochiometric then adding more fuel isn't going to do much. |
Bingo! I leaned out the mixture via the screw on the back of the carb, and it started responding to propane gas down the carb throat. Good call wildthings. Still, I couldn't find any leaks in the manifold that way. The exhaust is still very rich, it's fouling plugs 1/2 but not 3/4, it dies on acceleration under no choke, and will accelerate under full choke but has little 'blips' of momentary power loss, like split seconds.
009 dist and Weber progressive.
I've set valves points and timing, set the choke, checked for spark and compression, verified TDC and gas to carb, cleaned the carb out, new fuel lines and filter, fresh gas, new plugs... I'm pulling my hair out here. Any ideas? |
Smoke tester
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7568752#7568752 |
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