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magasaurus
Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2016
Posts: 1
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 Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 1:10 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I am HIGHLY CONSIDERING getting rid of the soccer mom + travel trailer combo that I live in for a VW camper bus. I am not entirely sure what I'm doing at all, and I see there is A LOT to learn here. My biggest question: is there anyway to run the AC off electrical power? If not, has anyone installed like an RV AC unit or window AC unit on their sweet bus? My pooch enjoys cool naps while I am working to bring home the bacon. |
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Sawspa
Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012
Posts: 173
Location: South-East Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| No idea on costs, there's been a few outsourced rebuild recommendation threads lately, maybe Tcash can find them. If it's not leaking out the intake or exhaust the rings are the only route left. How's the oil pressure and endplay on this engine?, any idea how many miles it's got on it? You can do pistons and cylinders at home, all depends on how much time you have and if you can follow instructions. |
I done a compression test on my #1 cylinder and it was 110lbs. So i am not going to worry about that cylinder. But, i can feel a difference in height of the two valve stems on cylinder#3. I am going to remove the head on cylinders 3/4 and have them machined. I am assuming i can remove the heads in the vehicle? And/or the cylinders as well. Is there any good write ups for just removing the head.?
_________________
1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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Derek Cobb
Annoying
Joined: March 11, 2004
Posts: 2565
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| Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| It's sooooo much easier to simply drop the motor to take a head off. The fan shroud needs to be removed and it's a tough job in the tight compartment. Drop the motor! |
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khalimadeath
Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2014
Posts: 768
Location: Reno, NV
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| Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| magasaurus wrote: |
| I am HIGHLY CONSIDERING getting rid of the soccer mom + travel trailer combo that I live in for a VW camper bus. I am not entirely sure what I'm doing at all, and I see there is A LOT to learn here. My biggest question: is there anyway to run the AC off electrical power? If not, has anyone installed like an RV AC unit or window AC unit on their sweet bus? My pooch enjoys cool naps while I am working to bring home the bacon. |
Look into a vanagan.
_________________
The United States Constitution
(c) 1787. All Rights Reserved
1970 Bus Westfalia
1964 Kombi |
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Sawspa
Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012
Posts: 173
Location: South-East Ohio
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| Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 6:34 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Derek Cobb wrote: |
| It's sooooo much easier to simply drop the motor to take a head off. The fan shroud needs to be removed and it's a tough job in the tight compartment. Drop the motor! |
I need to replace the nose cone seal and hockey puck as well. Should i drop the engine and tranny together or seperately?
_________________
1978 Westfalia Campmobile 2.0L oversized ham heads and a stepped up cam, running points and a 76 exhaust "Lefty Loosy" |
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bus_lover
Samba Member
Joined: June 28, 2016
Posts: 4
Location: Tennessee
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| Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 6:59 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Since this is a stupid question thread. I have a stupid question... 
What is the best process to go through when buying a bus from someone in another state?
I don't want to send money and not receive a bus
This is a private seller and I am the buyer.
Thanks for any advice and/or tips |
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obnoxiousblue
Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2007
Posts: 2943
Location: East Northport, NY
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| Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:28 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| bus_lover wrote: |
I don't want to send money and not receive a bus
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There are tons of auto-escrow services out there. But be forewarned - the seller may just as easily tell you they're trustworthy and not interested in complicating the sale process or selling to you.
_________________
Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 8:47 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| bus_lover wrote: |
Since this is a stupid question thread. I have a stupid question...
What is the best process to go through when buying a bus from someone in another state?
I don't want to send money and not receive a bus
This is a private seller and I am the buyer.
Thanks for any advice and/or tips |
Please check with the DMV located in your county. Rules and regulations vary from state to state and county to county.
Buying out of state
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200
Good luck
Tcash |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 8:49 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Sawspa wrote: |
| Derek Cobb wrote: |
| It's sooooo much easier to simply drop the motor to take a head off. The fan shroud needs to be removed and it's a tough job in the tight compartment. Drop the motor! |
I need to replace the nose cone seal and hockey puck as well. Should i drop the engine and tranny together or separately? |
Far easier together.
thnx to mayor ratwell
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html
Good luck
Tcash |
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Derek Cobb
Annoying
Joined: March 11, 2004
Posts: 2565
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| Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 6:33 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Sawspa wrote: |
| Derek Cobb wrote: |
| It's sooooo much easier to simply drop the motor to take a head off. The fan shroud needs to be removed and it's a tough job in the tight compartment. Drop the motor! |
I need to replace the nose cone seal and hockey puck as well. Should i drop the engine and tranny together or seperately? |
Together, very easy that way |
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christine72
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2014
Posts: 84
Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 9:20 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Will this electrical wiring scheme work? Is there a leaner way. Are the fuses necessary or misplaced? I'm tripping over the LED switch. Want it to turn it's LED on or off and NOT turn off/on current to charging port/socket when in the off position.
_________________
'74 Bay - ASI camper body w/'72 Bay - undercarriage and a '76 2000cc rebuilt engine
Past VWs
1967 Fastback (my first car); 1971 Square back; Several Jettas '88 -'97
The one I regret not buying:
72 Karmann Ghia, with autostick. |
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sdalcher
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2015
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 6:33 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| christine72 wrote: |
Will this electrical wiring scheme work? Is there a leaner way. Are the fuses necessary or misplaced? I'm tripping over the LED switch. Want it to turn it's LED on or off and NOT turn off/on current to charging port/socket when in the off position.
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Not sure I understand your question. So you are wanting continuous power to the receptacles, but want the LED only to turn off when the switch is turned off? This doesn't make sense to me, but that is what I'm getting from your post... |
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sdalcher
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2015
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 6:37 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So, I'm really not understanding the point of having the LED if it isn't indicating that your receptacles aren't live... Why install the LED at all? I guess I'm asking for you to explain your vision of what the end result will be.
I think what you are wanting is for the power for the receptacles to toggle between vehicle battery when running, and house current when hooked up to a 120 V campsite. At least that is what I can glean from the schematic you posted. Please tell us more |
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christine72
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2014
Posts: 84
Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 9:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| sdalcher wrote: |
| christine72 wrote: |
Will this electrical wiring scheme work? Is there a leaner way. Are the fuses necessary or misplaced? I'm tripping over the LED switch. Want it to turn it's LED on or off and NOT turn off/on current to charging port/socket when in the off position.
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Not sure I understand your question. So you are wanting continuous power to the receptacles, but want the LED only to turn off when the switch is turned off? This doesn't make sense to me, but that is what I'm getting from your post... |
Yes, that's exactly right. The LED will serve as a Faux alarm indicator. I had one on my Jetta and it stopped the break-ins (2 in 6 mos, and none the following 5 years with the light).
However, who wants a glowing LED on while camping. So, I'm wiring it to be able to manually turn it off.
Using the transfer switch for similar reasons, when camping will want to charge/run devices off the house battery. But while driving, rather than draw from the house battery (which the Hella battery relay instructions advise against) I'll use the starter battery.
Could be I've over thought this, but had no-start issues for years (resolved), so am uber protective of that starter battery.
_________________
'74 Bay - ASI camper body w/'72 Bay - undercarriage and a '76 2000cc rebuilt engine
Past VWs
1967 Fastback (my first car); 1971 Square back; Several Jettas '88 -'97
The one I regret not buying:
72 Karmann Ghia, with autostick. |
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sdalcher
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2015
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 5:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So wire in a Stand alone LED with switch into the dash. And run battery power to one side is a a double pole single throw switch. You would need some sort of transformer on the house current line to reduce it to DC power. Seems overly complicated. Maybe someone else will chime in...
I installed a relay to my my aux battery, so that it would charge while driving and then wired in a 1000W power inverter from my aux battery. It is mounted underneath the fold out bed and can't been seen, I mounted t so that when plugged in the plugs had enough clearance from the bottom of the bed. Takes up no room. So if I'm driving or primitive camping I use the aux battery. If I'm camping with electricity, I plug into the stock electrical outlet... |
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christine72
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2014
Posts: 84
Location: Portland, Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 11:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| sdalcher wrote: |
You would need some sort of transformer on the house current line to reduce it to DC power. Seems overly complicated. Maybe someone else will chime in...
If I'm camping with electricity, I plug into the stock electrical outlet... |
Oh by "House" I meant auxillary battery. I have a hookup for shore power already. Although I'd love to hook up a means also charge the aux when shore power is hooked up.
I think I'll wire the LED to the aux powered fuse box, and that solves any potential for it to interfere with the current to the USB & Socket. Thanks the input.
_________________
'74 Bay - ASI camper body w/'72 Bay - undercarriage and a '76 2000cc rebuilt engine
Past VWs
1967 Fastback (my first car); 1971 Square back; Several Jettas '88 -'97
The one I regret not buying:
72 Karmann Ghia, with autostick. |
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a-marshal
Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2009
Posts: 270
Location: Toronto
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| Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:59 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| christine72 wrote: |
| sdalcher wrote: |
You would need some sort of transformer on the house current line to reduce it to DC power. Seems overly complicated. Maybe someone else will chime in...
If I'm camping with electricity, I plug into the stock electrical outlet... |
Oh by "House" I meant auxillary battery. I have a hookup for shore power already. Although I'd love to hook up a means also charge the aux when shore power is hooked up.
I think I'll wire the LED to the aux powered fuse box, and that solves any potential for it to interfere with the current to the USB & Socket. Thanks the input. |
Not sure if I've been paying enough attention but it sounds like you are after something like the Xantrex Freedom
http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-hf-newgen.aspx
Plug into shore power and the unit charges your house battery and makes AC current available from the circuit in the unit. Unplug from shore power and the unit is a fairly efficient inverter providing AC (like) power from the same circuit in the unit.
_________________
-Ob. vehicle info....
1973 Westy w/ '74 1.8 liter / PDSI (type3?) carbs / 009 distributor / pertronix |
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VW Treasure
Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2014
Posts: 14
Location: Miami, Florida
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| Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 4:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I tried to get an answer to my question on the roof rack thread without any luck, so I'll try here in the "Stupid Question" thread to see if. Have better luck. Does anyone know who currently sells a full-length aluminum or stainless steel roof rack with the running wood boards for a Bay Window bus? Seems like everyone who use to build these are no longer making them.
Thanks for the help! |
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binner
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2011
Posts: 14
Location: Brissie, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 3:21 am Post subject: type 4 piston orientation |
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Hi all,
so here is my stupid question.....  i can't find info anywhere.
I just received my AA Biral 96mm type 4 pistons and they have a wedge cut in the top of the piston. What is the orientation in the engine?. Does the wedge cut out point up or down when its in the barrel and case.
There are no arrows, marks , bumps on the pistons at all.
Thanks in advance....... |
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sestino
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2007
Posts: 70
Location: University Park, Maryland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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IS this a good place to weld the bung for my O2 sensor?
The spot I'm pointing to in the photo is in front of my alternator and about 10 inches from the end of the tailpipe. I don't see any other locations upstream that are accessible and contain exhaust from all 4 cylinders.
I have a 1977 Westy with Fuel Injection.
I just purchased an Innovate MTX-L AFR O2 gauge kit with the 18 foot cable.
I'm trying to decide where to get my muffler shop to weld a bung. I know that the sensor needs to be on the top side of the pipe so it doesn't get excessive condensation.
The muffler is this "complete extractor" from Bus Depot:
http://www.busdepot.com/352000
Any advice? |
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