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minispdrcr
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.
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minispdrcr
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.


Trailing arms. Sorry!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 3:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

minispdrcr wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.


Trailing arms. Sorry!


Most people today just get rebuilt exchange arms with new joints pressed in from one of many vendors. Other wise you can have yours reworked by a shop that has experience in dealing with them. There is also a good video out there of someone changing them out with a ball joint puller/press while the arms are still installed on the car.

I have a local suspension shop that has been able to do the work for me.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.


Trailing arms. Sorry!


Most people today just get rebuilt exchange arms with new joints pressed in from one of many vendors. Other wise you can have yours reworked by a shop that has experience in dealing with them. There is also a good video out there of someone changing them out with a ball joint puller/press while the arms are still installed on the car.

I have a local suspension shop that has been able to do the work for me.

Grind the backs off and run a hot bead of weld around the joint, it'll shrik and almost fall out of the arm.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I wanted to double verify that this is what I need. Bus needs a new clutch and for the price I might as well replace everything.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-clutch-kit-kf193-01

Description says it fits up to 70 transporter and campmobile. This model seems to be the spring loaded version of a clutch.

If so I am buying it now along with things I needed for my Volvo.

Edit: Forgot to mention my bus is a 69 camper with the original engine.
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minispdrcr
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 5:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.


Trailing arms. Sorry!


Most people today just get rebuilt exchange arms with new joints pressed in from one of many vendors. Other wise you can have yours reworked by a shop that has experience in dealing with them. There is also a good video out there of someone changing them out with a ball joint puller/press while the arms are still installed on the car.

I have a local suspension shop that has been able to do the work for me.

Grind the backs off and run a hot bead of weld around the joint, it'll shrik and almost fall out of the arm.


I have tried our shops, and they want to heat them. That is why I was asking if its OK to heat.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:00 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

minispdrcr wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.


Trailing arms. Sorry!


Most people today just get rebuilt exchange arms with new joints pressed in from one of many vendors. Other wise you can have yours reworked by a shop that has experience in dealing with them. There is also a good video out there of someone changing them out with a ball joint puller/press while the arms are still installed on the car.

I have a local suspension shop that has been able to do the work for me.

Grind the backs off and run a hot bead of weld around the joint, it'll shrink and almost fall out of the arm.


I have tried our shops, and they want to heat them. That is why I was asking if its OK to heat.

Not with oxy/acetelene, propane can't get hot enough to soften it but if it reaches the point it's starting to glow it's too hot.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
minispdrcr wrote:
We have tried two tools and both broke, have tried a 45 ton and a 60 ton press and the tools just disintegrated. So, we are looking at other avenues.


You still haven't told us if you are just trying to remove the ball joints from the eyes on the steering knuckle or if you are trying to press the BJ from the trailing arms. Two very different procedures.


Trailing arms. Sorry!


Most people today just get rebuilt exchange arms with new joints pressed in from one of many vendors. Other wise you can have yours reworked by a shop that has experience in dealing with them. There is also a good video out there of someone changing them out with a ball joint puller/press while the arms are still installed on the car.

I have a local suspension shop that has been able to do the work for me.

Grind the backs off and run a hot bead of weld around the joint, it'll shrik and almost fall out of the arm.


Last winter I did a couple of ball joints by grinding off the backside, pounding the main part through the joint body, then cutting the joint outer ring with a sawzall. No special tools and the second one took me fifteen minutes.

Pressing the new ones back in was easy as pie. I will see if I can find that video link I followed.

EDIT: found it... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7915482
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I also did a set the way Corey advocates above. If you're careful it's a great way to go. Don't be afaid of it. Any good shop can then press new ones in.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 11:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620643&highlight=

Here's how I did mine.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 5:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I picked up a timing light at an estate sale so I could learn to do the timing on my bus. 5 bucks, and it looks brand new. got it home and was checking it out, and see it is for 6.5 volts. useless for what I need? no difference? change the bulb and good to go?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:29 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
I picked up a timing light at an estate sale so I could learn to do the timing on my bus. 5 bucks, and it looks brand new. got it home and was checking it out, and see it is for 6.5 volts. useless for what I need? no difference? change the bulb and good to go?

Strobe bulbs don't care about primary system volts, but the electronics that trigger it likely do. You'll have to find some sort of voltage dropping resistor, or power it from a lantern battery or other 6V source.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 7:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
alman72 wrote:
I picked up a timing light at an estate sale so I could learn to do the timing on my bus. 5 bucks, and it looks brand new. got it home and was checking it out, and see it is for 6.5 volts. useless for what I need? no difference? change the bulb and good to go?

Strobe bulbs don't care about primary system volts, but the electronics that trigger it likely do. You'll have to find some sort of voltage dropping resistor, or power it from a lantern battery or other 6V source.


Try using your trusty 12v timing light to diagnose a no-start. An hour and a half later the owner will come out and tell you that the car is 6v. Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 10:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
alman72 wrote:
I picked up a timing light at an estate sale so I could learn to do the timing on my bus. 5 bucks, and it looks brand new. got it home and was checking it out, and see it is for 6.5 volts. useless for what I need? no difference? change the bulb and good to go?

Strobe bulbs don't care about primary system volts, but the electronics that trigger it likely do. You'll have to find some sort of voltage dropping resistor, or power it from a lantern battery or other 6V source.


Try using your trusty 12v timing light to diagnose a no-start. An hour and a half later the owner will come out and tell you that the car is 6v. Laughing
why are you using a timing light to diagnose a no- start?
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:42 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

TomWesty wrote:
asiab3 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
alman72 wrote:
I picked up a timing light at an estate sale so I could learn to do the timing on my bus. 5 bucks, and it looks brand new. got it home and was checking it out, and see it is for 6.5 volts. useless for what I need? no difference? change the bulb and good to go?

Strobe bulbs don't care about primary system volts, but the electronics that trigger it likely do. You'll have to find some sort of voltage dropping resistor, or power it from a lantern battery or other 6V source.


Try using your trusty 12v timing light to diagnose a no-start. An hour and a half later the owner will come out and tell you that the car is 6v. Laughing
why are you using a timing light to diagnose a no- start?


It was a customer's car and we used an inductive timing light to see that there was spark at the coil and center pin on the distributor, while there was no spark at at plug wires.

The rotor was the wrong rotor for the cap, and the inductive clamp was a quick way to see that spark was making it in but not out.

I'll also often use one to diagnose an ignition misfire, either connected to the center coil wire or each spark plug wire while watching the light for missing flashes during missed combustion events.

Robbie
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 8:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
I picked up a timing light at an estate sale so I could learn to do the timing on my bus. 5 bucks, and it looks brand new. got it home and was checking it out, and see it is for 6.5 volts. useless for what I need? no difference? change the bulb and good to go?


If you were in AZ I would trade you for a 12v one.

Yes, I would be worried it might burn out.

My 12v light works on my 6v Bus but I usually have to hook it straight to the generator so it gets >6v
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I like this stupid question thread! So, here's mine.

Lug nut wrench size for a 1970 Type 2? Mine is missing and I'm a bit lazy to pull the hubcaps at this time! Thanks!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

ToddMatthews wrote:
I like this stupid question thread! So, here's mine.

Lug nut wrench size for a 1970 Type 2? Mine is missing and I'm a bit lazy to pull the hubcaps at this time! Thanks!


19mm or 3/4"
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is it usually enough to replace the shocks for rear bus sag? Are the expensive Koni's worth it? or will KYB's do the job just as well? Thanks in advance for all replies! Much appreciated!
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