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Rear axle nut R/H or L/H thread?
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Taffy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:48 am    Post subject: Rear axle nut R/H or L/H thread? Reply with quote

Hi,
I know I'm not the first to ask, but are the 46mm rear axle castellated nuts Right hand or Left hand thread? There are conflicting answers on the forum, and I haven't been able to find anything in the Bentley Manual.
(1972 Westfalia) I've just spent a few hours using a 4 feet cheater bar and my 210lbs trying to loosen them off but to no avail. (Tried both directions!)
Cheers
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RH thread, keep beating.
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Mountain Minstrel
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep trying...it took my whole family of four (the two kids probably only weighed 80 between them) bouncing in unison on a 4' cheater bar. The driverís side was easier as we could hold on to the bus for balance. I am sure that the neighbors got a great laugh out of it.
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Desertbusman wrote:
Maintenance doesn't mean repairing it when it breaks. That's called repair.


miniman82 wrote:
Don't listen to him, people from Fresno are retarded. Rolling Eyes
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wampe
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will send my 600 pound gorilla!.......I was lucky, was able to get them off by myself. The brake drums came right off also. Someone had been careful to grease everything when it was last apart. Applause Red Bay Bus
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Justin
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the Empi axle nut tool and a maul. Works great but you have to watch out for the paint on the wheel and the fender.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Empi style tool. We broke a 1" breakerbar without one trying to get one of ours off. The problem is that you need a shear force spike to start it and only something that you can keep pressure on and at the same time put a good blow from a hammer into works.
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wampe
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used an iron 24" pipe wrench with a 2 1/2" by 36" sch. 80 pipe on the end for a cheater bar. Nothing even came close to bending. It popped the nuts right off. Smile Red Bay Bus
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Mountain Minstrel
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wampe wrote:
I will send my 600 pound gorilla!.......I was lucky, was able to get them off by myself. The brake drums came right off also. Someone had been careful to grease everything when it was last apart. Applause Red Bay Bus


In my case the drum on the driver's side came off real easy as it had spun. The passenger side still wasn't that difficult to get off (a true piece of cake compared to four people trying to balance and jumb on that cheater bar in unison). It is twenty years later and both of my daughters remeber that event. don't ever say that buses don't provide lasting memories, Wink
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Desertbusman wrote:
Maintenance doesn't mean repairing it when it breaks. That's called repair.


miniman82 wrote:
Don't listen to him, people from Fresno are retarded. Rolling Eyes
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bsairhead
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bus is a roller, put your breaker bar with 4 foot cheater 30 degrees or so above horizontal and push,forward for RH and backwards for LH. Better yet if it's a driver let the engine do the work.
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GusC2it
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At my shop we used a 6' pipe and stood on it and bounced a little. If that didn't work a helper whacked on the socket bar at the same time. Cool
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
used an iron 24" pipe wrench with a 2 1/2" by 36" sch. 80 pipe on the end for a cheater bar. Nothing even came close to bending. It popped the nuts right off.

If you could do that with plastic pipe the nuts weren't torqued last time or they were done recently.


Quote:
At my shop we used a 6' pipe and stood on it and bounced a little. If that didn't work a helper whacked on the socket bar at the same time.


I weigh 275. Standing 3' out and bouncing that is about 1200 pounds on the breaker. Cathy wacked the 1" breaker bar as I bounced and that is how we broke it. I figure it probably saw closed to 1400 pounds on the nut that wouldn't budge. Fortunately I was also hanging onto the gutter rail so I caught myself when it snapped.

That Empi tool or one like it is the only way I know to get a really strong whack into the nut.
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greenbus pilot
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Quote:
used an iron 24" pipe wrench with a 2 1/2" by 36" sch. 80 pipe on the end for a cheater bar. Nothing even came close to bending. It popped the nuts right off.

If you could do that with plastic pipe the nuts weren't torqued last time or they were done recently.


Schedule 80 pipe comes in steel or plastic. I would imagine steel is a little stronger.... Wink
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's with three post in the last week alone about removing this nut?

I lucked into getting one of these for a song years ago. Beats the heck out of most other options.

http://toolmonger.com/2006/09/13/finds-swench-manual-impact-wrenches/
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny, I didn't see anyone mention one of these yet. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036 I bought one and hope to use it soon. I bought it for the flywheel gland nut and it should work for the rear axle nut as well.
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ScottK
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The axle nut on the bus is 46mm. That tool works on 36mm nuts only.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:08 am    Post subject: 46mm axle nut tool Reply with quote

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7045

Aloha
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GusC2it
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At any VW event someones always needing a lossen or tighten. Cool
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Taffy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys , once you had confirmed it was a right hand thread, I borrowed a 46mm "slogger" spanner from a mate, then with the help of a 7lb hammer and a bit of sweat, I managed to crack those nuts! Job done!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taffy wrote:
Thanks guys , once you had confirmed it was a right hand thread, I borrowed a 46mm "slogger" spanner from a mate, then with the help of a 7lb hammer and a bit of sweat, I managed to crack those nuts! Job done!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have been looking for one of those for quite a while. Gone through many piles of old tools hoping to find one. So far no luck over here in the land of archaic fasteners.
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greenevilleVW
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am having a hard time with my passengers side rear axle nut as well. Is heat not recommended?

Also, is there an aftermarket axle nut that would make this easier in the future. Perhaps with a locking allen or something?
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