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AAZ Turbodiesel swap into '86 Vanagon Syncro
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Kopasz
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncroincity wrote:


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Not sure I have the skill or patience to pull that off. Full details here:

http://www.drivenachodrive.com/about-nacho/installing-custom-cabinets-in-nacho-vanagon/


Holy crap.
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'87 Wolfsburg Weekender, Bostig Zetec

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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple of problems cropped up... The vacuum pump is not working too well, so I have no brake booster. Can't drive without it, the pedal is extremely stiff.

Also have a nice oil leak coming from the front motor seal behind the timing belt. Evil or Very Mad 1-2 drops per second, only when engine is running. This one is chapping my buns, this means I have to drop the whole timing belt and crank pulley to get in there. I replaced the seal when I rebuilt the engine, don't understand why it's leaking, unless it's coming from somewhere else.

Anyhoo, here's some more engine porn. Wink


ARP head studs and MLS headgasket. Can *almost* see the front seal in the first shot where the crank sticks out to take the timing belt pulley.



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Jerry McCavitt
'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
'98 Jetta Wolfie
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice nice, great stuff.
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xoo00oox Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive got a few vacumm pumps. One is yours if you need it, let me know.

Andrew-
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should pull the vac pump lid and inspect the vanes and wear surfaces of the pump. Wear in the lid can be removed by lapping. If the vanes and wear surfaces aren't gouged, then your problem is oil supply. The oil for the vac pump comes from the oil pump to the oil gallery and then to the oil pump bushing, up a hole drilled in the oil pump shaft into the bottom of the gear of the vac pump and up the vac pump shaft to spill from the center over the hub/vanes. Was the oil pump bushing replaced? Was it installed with the hole facing the correct direction? There is a seal in the bottom of the vac pump gear that seals the vac gear to the oil pump shaft. Is that seal in good condition? If memory serves, there is also a small screen in the center path of the vac pump. Is that screen clear so it is not restricting oil flow?

I have had the oil galley plug by the intermediate shaft seal carrier leak after rebuild and it drips right down to look like the crank pulley seal.

Andrew
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, guys... I really should have at least taken it apart before I threw it back in... everything else on the motor was pretty shagged out, why would this be any different? Laughing
Got a little too excited to see it finally running...

I'll chase the galleys with some pipe cleaner... the bushing was not replaced, nor the lower seal, only the green o-ring on the body.
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'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
'98 Jetta Wolfie
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would also mention that the AAZ vac pump is different from the 1.6 vac pump but the same as the AHU/1Z vac pump.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
I would also mention that the AAZ vac pump is different from the 1.6 vac pump but the same as the AHU/1Z vac pump.


Learned that one early... ordered a vac pump rebuild kit, got a diaphragm. Like, where the f**k does this go? Razz
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'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
'98 Jetta Wolfie
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blech, diaphragm pumps... Even the 1.6 rotary pumps are different and won't fit the AAZ.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the pump was all coated with fresh oil internally, no blockage in the center galley or screen, it's getting plenty of oil. I pulled the vanes, and did a mild lap sand (#600) to remove glaze and small scratches, also did the lid as it had some wear patterns in it... nothing that would catch your fingernail, just visible shiny marks. The lower seal seems OK, maybe a bit hardened... Put it back together, and got exactly the same vac reading as before. Confused

I'm also wondering if maybe the BMW booster can I put in is defective or leaking... hope not, that's another dash pull to put the OEM booster back in. I do hear a slight hiss when the pedal is pushed down, as is normal, so something's going on in there, but there's no difference in brake feel between engine on or off. Or maybe it's out of adjustment... hard to tell with everything buried. I get about 1/2" movement before the pedal is like stepping on a rock.
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'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
'98 Jetta Wolfie
Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=
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91Transporter16"
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:08 am    Post subject: accel cable Reply with quote

[quote="Syncroincity"]Did some playing around with Teleflex cables last weekend. I need an actuator for the cold-start lever, and the 17-footer seems to fit the bill nicely, engine end terminates in a thin wire that will work with the pump attach clamp.
Routed it along the middle underside, and up through the front bodywork to an existing wiring grommet behind the upper grille and into the dash. Now I just have to figure out how to secure the other end in the dash and fashion a handle/knob for it.

I have a 14-foot cable that might work as a replacement for the accelerator cable, tho a tad too long, but I can serpentine it a little to take up the slack since it's a push/pull. Grinding down the front end rod a little will allow it to mate to the stock pedal cable clamp, and the engine end terminates in a flat with a hole in it, easy to bolt to the fuel arm.
I have the correct DV stock cable, so it's not a priority, just something I'm considering.

I got the cables cheap on Ebay, originally for boating engine controls.


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Hey Jerry,
I'm having a big problem with my accel cable. The stock diesel cable will not stroke enough to pull the lever on the fuel pump. I see you used a different cable. And did you make the bracket the bolts on top of the pump to pull the throttle? This stock cable pulls on a 1.6td that has a much less stroke.
Is the cable from a store with a p/n?
Thanks
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

91Trans, the diesel accelerator cable will give a significant range of motion for the lever. Tuning the max fuel screw and then adjusting the idle gives you the desired fueling to fit that range of motion.
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GEEBEE
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:36 pm    Post subject: AAZ INSTALL Reply with quote

Looking good jerry !

The radiator hoses worked well for you

Regards

GB
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91Transporter16"
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:56 pm    Post subject: Re: accel cable Reply with quote

[quote="91Transporter16""][quote="Syncroincity"]Did some playing around with Teleflex cables last weekend. I need an actuator for the cold-start lever, and the 17-footer seems to fit the bill nicely, engine end terminates in a thin wire that will work with the pump attach clamp.
Routed it along the middle underside, and up through the front bodywork to an existing wiring grommet behind the upper grille and into the dash. Now I just have to figure out how to secure the other end in the dash and fashion a handle/knob for it.

I have a 14-foot cable that might work as a replacement for the accelerator cable, tho a tad too long, but I can serpentine it a little to take up the slack since it's a push/pull. Grinding down the front end rod a little will allow it to mate to the stock pedal cable clamp, and the engine end terminates in a flat with a hole in it, easy to bolt to the fuel arm.
I have the correct DV stock cable, so it's not a priority, just something I'm considering.

I got the cables cheap on Ebay, originally for boating engine controls.


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I think I figured out the problem with my accel cable. I'm getting a bracket made so the rubber isolator on the cable is closer to the lever on the fuel pump. Here is the drawing of the new bracket. Ill let you know how it goes.
Thanks

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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had tried to use a teleflex for the throttle, but it would bind up before I got full travel out of it, a little too inflexible at the end of the run by the pump... I went back to a stock DV cable.
I also earlier point out that I wasn't getting full travel; and Andrew suggested the same max fuel screw and idle adjustments. Don't worry about it until you're up and running, you have to be able to road test it before you start making changes...

I found the DV cable to be just barely long enough, as I had cut off the end of it. I used a replacement brass ferrule cable stop on it, since the original plastic snap-on socket did not fit the ball that came with my AAZ pump. I probably should have waited and found the right ball... I have to stop working on this thing with no sleep. Rolling Eyes

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I need to put a cap on those strands... I can see myself jamming them up under a fingernail some dark night. Wink
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Jerry McCavitt
'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
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91Transporter16"
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea don't you hate it when the littlest things stop the progress? I can't find the ball for the cable either. I've tried a couple of different ones but none fit.
I'm going to have to make my own. I think I have the problem solved. I just need to get this bracket back from the fab shop so I can bolt it up. The main reason I want to stay with the stock cable is for replacement in the future. That goes beyond saying. How are you doing with your road test?
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haven't touched it in about two weeks. Confused This weekend I just stayed inside in front of the AC it was brutally hot & humid here.
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'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
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'98 Jetta Wolfie
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any 1.6 pump will have the right accelerator cable ball.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Any 1.6 pump will have the right accelerator cable ball.


Got any laying around? Wink
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'86 Syncro Camper AAZ swap in work
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
'98 Jetta Wolfie
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably, but they won't fit your cable any more. Very Happy
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