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AAZ Turbodiesel swap into '86 Vanagon Syncro
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something sure doesn't sound right. I've built dozens of VAG diesels up from new bottom ends etc., and never had one produce excess blowby after the initial start up and the break in period. Hate to say it, but perhaps a leakdown test is in order.
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'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
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Gizmoman
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sympathize with you on the blow-by. I know you know, but It's been written that the engine needs to immediately get pushed hard with new rings or you get polished bores.
What "procedure" did you use during your initial run?

I'm still fiddling with wiring and the coolant pipes but should be running soon. Working this thing hard after all the work, money and mods is going to be tough for me to do right out of the chute.
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82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).
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johnnygreenham
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I know you know, but It's been written that the engine needs to immediately get pushed hard with new rings


If anyone has a good thread link to running in new rings I'd like to read it......... read a few threads but could use all the help I can get....about to embark on this imminently Dancing
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I certainly didn't baby it, I always tried to vary the speed, accel & decel a lot. It did idle an awful lot, though, particularly taking it to work where I sit in traffic for an hour.

If I blew the break-in, what am I looking at, re-hone and new rings?
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always broke in these engines the same as any other. Get the engine speed up and vary the RPMs so that it doesn't sit at one speed for too long. 500 miles should be more than sufficient for a thorough break in period.
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lloydy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

can't remember if i posted these pics before?.. i had the same idea with the oil seperator, but did it slightly differently
oil seperator from a bmw x5
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[/quote].banjo fitting and hose so oil seperator drains to block using the block oil return tapping
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and one way valve to stop the block venting back up the breather drain
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the banjo fitted
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seperator fitted with silicone hoses
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i also fitted the VW block filter, seen here next to the standard type
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[/quote]
the one way valve fits between the drain on the unit and the banjo on the block, the one way valve is not meant to be needed if your returning below the sump oil level..
I trial fitted this set up with clear hose just to see how clear the breather set up to the inlet was, as you can see it does a pretty good job
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and after
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i hope you get to the bottom of this issue soon, I'm having a AFN tdi built up now with oversize pistons, as i've bent a rod in my current one, we should have a smoke off see who wins Laughing
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heh, you're on. I'll get some video this weekend. Laughing

I've got several issues going on at the same time that have some cause/effect overlap, I just have to tackle things one at a time.
Job one is getting the oil contained so I can drive the damn van more than a few miles without having a Valdez moment.
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Gizmoman
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnnygreenham wrote:
Quote:
I know you know, but It's been written that the engine needs to immediately get pushed hard with new rings


If anyone has a good thread link to running in new rings I'd like to read it......... read a few threads but could use all the help I can get....about to embark on this imminently Dancing


The best procedure can be found right next to the "best oil", or "best oil filter" threads Very Happy A Google search for Diesel engine break-in will have you reading for hours.

Seriously though, you'll find several common points throughout most of them;
- Load the engine (like climbing hills in a higher gear than normal)
- Don't let it idle for very long (even stoplights are too long so put on the e-brake and rev it while waiting)
- Use Dino oil and switch to synthetic after 1000 miles (if you choose)
- Change oil and filters two to three times for the first 1K
- Vary the RPM (no cruising) but keep it under 4K

That's my general plan.

Syncroincity wrote:
I certainly didn't baby it, I always tried to vary the speed, accel & decel a lot. It did idle an awful lot, though, particularly taking it to work where I sit in traffic for an hour.

If I blew the break-in, what am I looking at, re-hone and new rings?

I'm not qualified to answer your question as my engine isn't even running yet Embarassed .
Iv'e read about guys dumping Bon-Ami into the bores but that sounds scary. I do think there is some stuff that can be applied to the barrel walls but I believe you need to pull the head (Ugg!) I'd post the question on http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?board=6.0 - Specifically "theman 53"
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82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).
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johnnygreenham
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pictures lloydy, I'm glad your oil separator system works for you. I was a little confused about two things though. Looks like you drain the oil from the separator back into the block where an AAZ original turbo used to drain back. You have a one way valve in that line. Not sure how it open unless you have pressure to open it?

You also return the vapor from the oil separator back to the sump below oil level..........not sure how the system works if your vent/breather gasses form your crank case are just directed straight back into your crank case.
Maybe thats where you get your pressure to open the check valve in oil return.

If you could explain those two brain puzzlers i'd appreciate it.

johnny
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lloydy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 12:34 am    Post subject: U Reply with quote

Hi, yes the oil from the seperator returns to the old oil return from turbo tapping. The one way valve is very weak in the direction it needs to flow. It is actually a Mann part that is a option for their provent, so is designed for the job. You can literally just breathe in the end and it opens..
This connection is above the oil level in sump so needs the one way valve.. Nothing returns below oil level? The fitting you can see on the sump, is from me starting to mock up the oil return for the turbo. (I have a tdi, turbo is in slightly different location)
The breather set up still connects to the air inlet as per factory (just has the oil seperator fitted in line)
Hope that clears up any confusion?
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, yes, the infamous Mann $50 check valve. Evil or Very Mad Electric pump and timer board will cost less... and I'm still not convinced it won't be held closed by crankcase pressure, above OR below the fill line.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Hope that clears up any confusion?


Sure does, thank you. I thought from the picture you were returning the gasses back into the sump where your mock up turbo return is going.....I was completeley confused Confused
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, ski season's about done, so here we are again.

My first official act of 2014 was to rebuild the turbocharger.

Got the Garrett T2 rebuild kit from Ebay for $70;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380390903018?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

A few parts are not quite right; the hot side clamp ring halves are set up for 4 bolts, mine has 6 so I had to drill a couple of extra holes, no big deal. Also the compressor housing o-ring is too big... I just re-used the old one, it was in good shape.
Everything else is spot-on, and the kit comes with the upgraded 360-degree thrust bearing.

I had the turbo out & apart to clock it last year, so removal and disassembly was a breeze this time.


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This video was helpful to see what I was getting into;


Link



Link

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tortuga480
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job on the turbo.
How is your (2nd?) intercooler set up holding up?
Do you have EGT measurements with and without it?
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Longevity remains to be seen; I tried to index everything during teardown, hope the balance isn't too far out.

WAIC works great, even without a reservoir... enough hose to hold over 2 gallons of coolant. EGTs never get above 1100 maxed. No data for un-cooled operation.

I have to pull a rear axle due to vibes, I think the right side may be contacting the stub axle... might need to trim it down some. Now if I could just have a day off without pouring rain or freezing temps.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncroincity wrote:


WAIC works great, even without a reservoir... enough hose to hold over 2 gallons of coolant. EGTs never get above 1100 maxed. No data for un-cooled operation.


I have had an AAZ in a Westfalia (for over 10 years) never got around to do an intercooler, but did not use it for lots of hwy driving till lately.
Under heavy load (50MPH up steep hill in 4th) I back off at 1350 and try to keep it below 1300F (700C).
1100(590C) sounds better.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: 1.6 L IP on a 1.9 L 1-z, 1-ylf AUH Reply with quote

I have a 1.9 L NA in my 83 tin top, I took it into a shop belonging to a guy I have known for several years. I like checking things like numbers, I found that I had a 1.6 L IP on the 1.9 L diesel. I took it to a shop to have a new belt and have the IP adjusted as the vanagon was knocking until it got warmed up. I went out today and checked the valve timing, I noticed that the IP was one knotch off?? The bus runs great??? I want to install the timing belt cover, none is there..... I bought a back cover - steel and a close to matching plastic cover. I wondering whether the addition of the steel cover will impact the injection pump timing???? Open for any suggestions. [email protected] Wink No sereal numbers on the block????
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:17 pm    Post subject: Re: 1.6 L IP on a 1.9 L 1-z, 1-ylf AUH Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
I have a 1.9 L NA in my 83 tin top, I took it into a shop belonging to a guy I have known for several years. I like checking things like numbers, I found that I had a 1.6 L IP on the 1.9 L diesel. I took it to a shop to have a new belt and have the IP adjusted as the vanagon was knocking until it got warmed up. I went out today and checked the valve timing, I noticed that the IP was one knotch off?? The bus runs great??? I want to install the timing belt cover, none is there..... I bought a back cover - steel and a close to matching plastic cover. I wondering whether the addition of the steel cover will impact the injection pump timing???? Open for any suggestions. [email protected] Wink No sereal numbers on the block????


Sounds like you might have an industrial motor, unserialized?
The addition of the metal backing plate will require removal of the belt and the pulleys, so you're going to have to lock the motor in the timing position (#1 TDC, timing pin in the pump, and cam lock bar), and then re-time it when the plate is in place. If you're careful, nothing should move during the installation so you won't have much to do to get it back in time.


The turbo rebuild was a complete failure, lasted about 20 miles before she started pushing oil again. Removed the snail this weekend and going to take it to Scroll turbo in NJ: http://scrollproducts.com/en/turbo-rebuild-service for teardown, rebuild, and BALANCE. Embarassed
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bummer on your turbo rebuild. I finally gave in on my "rebuilt" k-14 puking oil and went to a Holset 200 ($620). A fair amount of re-work was required but WOW, it's like a different engine. Let me know if you need details.

I think the k-14 would be fine at 8-10 PSI but I was pushing it to 15-18 and it still didn't produce enough air to feed the Giles IP fueling. My cruising pressure was 12-15, now it's around 8.
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Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gizmo, Yeah I've been considering the Holset; along with one of the VNTs I have laying in a pile... everything is going to require re-doing the exhaust, intake and adapting the manifold; something I'm not ready to do quite yet.
I'm going to see if these guys can hot-rod this Garrett T2 a little, they seem to be pretty conversant with hybrid Garrett setups. I'm also hoping to avoid having to use the TDI-type adapter left engine mount. Razz
I was running about 17psi max boost, it seemed pretty willing at that level, as I said earlier, 1100 EGT sustained, maybe 1250 going up a good long hill. It spools up immediately off idle... the turbine wheel is the size of a quarter. Laughing Good level of boost for the van, not a rocket, but gets out of it's own way, climbs any hill without complaint or downshifting.


I was kicking around the idea a manual VNT controller; something like a boat throttle quadrant mounted down by the e-brake lever on the seat pedestal that I could adjust the vanes between power and cruise settings, and also be able to work back & forth occasionally to keep the carbon build-up down.
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