AAZ Turbodiesel swap into '86 Vanagon Syncro

[?Waldo?]

IMO, the stock valve cover hockey puck should be plumbed into the system so that it is the last item before the intake connection between the air filter and compressor inlet. It should also be oriented so that it is close to horizontal. Any other oil separators should be before the stock hockey puck as the puck is the regulator for crankcase pressure and I believe is made specifically to prevent runaway.

Turning a critical eye to the turbo oil return would also be wise.

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Hi Syncro, I worked on a bunch of 5-10 ton trucks used by the marine corps, depot level maintenance in Barstow, CA. We had a bunch of diesels using oil on rebuilds. After tearing down several rebuilds that didn't clear Inspection and dyno in the engine room, We had the mesurements taken, everything was up to spec, The ring gap was right where it was supposed to be, The cylinders were ground to spec, I had the cylinder hone checked, the cylinders were looked too smooth - somebody ordered the wrong grit on the cylinder hones - the cylinder hones had a too smooth so that the rings would not wear in to seat. We also found that the rings were installed wet with oil, another reason for failure to seat. We got lucky on that one, we had to bid competitively on jobs to be done, everybody got the opportunity to keep their jobs. This may have worked for you or maybe not. VW diesels are different, sometimes it is the simple things that drive you nuts. Please don't use bonami.

[Syncroincity]

Please don't worry about topic drift, any info is good info as far as I'm concerned.

The motor is getting the oil from the turbo, not the intake draw... I have another catch can mounted AFTER the MANN separator as a backup; it has a sightglass, and it's not filled. Convoluted, but I've had no oil getting into the intake via the breather lately.
It's a very mild runaway, slow to spool up, and it only happens when the engine revs up past a certain RPM. Apply brakes to slow the engine, and it immediately drops to idle.


Gizmo, where did you get that drain flange?


re: Honing... I used a 3-stone spring-loaded hone for this block, and WD-40 during to wash the walls. No oil on assembly. 45-degree hash marks, or reasonably close. It'd been a while since A&P school, but I know the basics...

I'm just going to have to keep hammering it on the road and hope they grab, I'm in no mood for a teardown. Oval cylinder or broken ring haunts my dreams.
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT

Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=

[Gizmoman]

[?Waldo?]

[[email protected]]

I noticed that you were looking at PEX pipe applications on the AAZ, Understanding that I have an 83 vanagon - takes something like 27 feet of heater line. I used PEX blue and red on replacing some water lines on my home. I like the flexibility of PEX. Have you tried PEX on your van?

Sorry I don't know much about turbos - I am wondering if you have a bad seal or o-ring, or possibly too much clearance to permit oil going in to the intake manifold. Was this engine that had a lot of oil in the Intake manifold, during a tear down?

I would be inclined to look at the bearing clearance, it could be at the upper end of the clearance allowable - this is kinda like a leaky main bearing seal, a new seal will not hold if the bearing clearance is too much. Is it possible to have too much oil pressure, blowing past the turbo main seal? Hope that this may help?

[Gizmoman]

In case your interested, here are some shots of the work I did to bolt the custom o-ring flange to the pan.

To remove the pan, I had to make a special allen wrench.

I have the larger flywheel and the circular bump on it makes getting to the two bolts nearly impossible.

The "jog" lets me get around the bump.

I had to remove the pan anyway to weld up the PO's attempt at a drain - way too small and not in-line with the turbo (the shortest run is the least restrictive). I touched the face of the pan with a flat grinding disc to make it smooth.

I also added a few tig-beads to provide enough material to tap.

Make sure you put some sealer on the bolt threads if you end up making a flange. An easier route if you have the pan off would be a simple 45 degree bulk-head fitting or build the area of choice up with weld and tap it.
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82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).

[?Waldo?]

Gizmo, your pan is a TD pan. That hole plugged by the bolt that is below and between your fitting and the OPs attempt is the stock oil return bung.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I was confused about that pan, as the drain doesn't look anything like the 1.6NA pans I've had in my possession.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[?Waldo?]

The TD pan has two drains (neither shown in the pic), one at either end of the pan. The non-turbo pan has just one drain at the pulley end of the pan.

[Gizmoman]

[johnnygreenham]

[?Waldo?]

[Gizmoman]

[?Waldo?]

I wasn't implying that there was anything wrong with your fitting. Just curious. I've always had a bit of concern about the stock vanagon drain being at the bottom of the pan WRT aeration of the oil. You're probably better off with it raised up a bit.

[Gizmoman]

[[email protected]]

I gotta question about Bonami in seating rings, what keeps the bon-ami out of the bearings? Isn't that stuff quite fine? Will the Bonami tend to wear down the bearings as well as the rings?

I was wondering whether you used a break in oil - I recall I used a 30 weight Non-detergent oil on the old 40 HP + rebuilds I did years ago. The non detergent oil seemed to work quite well for 1-2000 Miles. Of course I did not use a non-detergent oil for a prolonged period, when I switched over to a detergent based oil, I would use shell 30 Weight, I liked to change oil on 1500 mi intervals, While I would be traveling in the Mojave Desert with summer temps above 110 Degrees F, I would use streight 40 weight on air cooled 1600 engines.

Is there a break in oil that can be used on AAZ's?

[Syncroincity]

I'm using straight dino Rotella diesel oil, with a Redline break-in addative.

The Bon-Ami will indeed get into the crankcase oil, which is why you're supposed to change the oil immediately after doing the process. Since I have a remote oil filter setup, I re-routed an oil line to skip the filters, and dumped the oil after I put in the powder.

I'm wondering how big a fitting I can get ito the pan bung... is there enough meat there to hold a 1/2" NPT thread fitting?
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT

Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=

[Gizmoman]

[Syncroincity]

Yes, I have a TD pan with the factory drain port like yours. I think it's an M12 thread... making it slightly smaller than 1/2".
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT

Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=