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Proper Operating oil temperature 1600
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68beetleman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:36 am    Post subject: Proper Operating oil temperature 1600 Reply with quote

Ok all spring it ran at 120-160F as of two days ago it started hitting 210F I don't know if it's running too hot or if I'm freaking out over nothing stock 16 with 34pict 3 dp. Oh and I had a new doghouse cooler laying around so I threw it on with no help to lower temp any idea oh and it's running with j tubes I have some headder wrap should I wrap the j tubes And the merged header and glass pack I didn't think it would hurt the problem. And the airtemp in waxhaw nc has been 94 all day
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

0-180 too cool
180-210 normal
210-230 hot but OK
230-250 very hot
250+ turn it off
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68beetleman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much glenn I appreciate it. How do u feel a out the exhaust fibreglass wrap. Oh and the j-tubes sit less than half an inch below the heads. Should I wrap them up.
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Nirvana92
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Proper Operating oil temperature 1600 Reply with quote

68beetleman wrote:
Ok all spring it ran at 120-160F as of two days ago it started hitting 210F I don't know if it's running too hot or if I'm freaking out over nothing stock 16 with 34pict 3 dp. Oh and I had a new doghouse cooler laying around so I threw it on with no help to lower temp any idea oh and it's running with j tubes I have some headder wrap should I wrap the j tubes And the merged header and glass pack I didn't think it would hurt the problem. And the airtemp in waxhaw nc has been 94 all day

obviously someone doesnt listen to anything i said about that Rolling Eyes
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Nirvana92
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5350514&highlight=#5350514
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rlutterb
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Proper Operating oil temperature 1600 Reply with quote

68beetleman wrote:
Ok all spring it ran at 120-160F as of two days ago it started hitting 210F I don't know if it's running too hot or if I'm freaking out over nothing stock 16 with 34pict 3 dp. Oh and I had a new doghouse cooler laying around so I threw it on with no help to lower temp any idea oh and it's running with j tubes I have some headder wrap should I wrap the j tubes And the merged header and glass pack I didn't think it would hurt the problem. And the airtemp in waxhaw nc has been 94 all day


My 73sb ran up to around 210 here in Cincinnati this week when we finally got some hot weather. Before then, in the cooler weather, it got up to 180 on the high side. Your's is fine.
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68beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok just got done putting dei's headder wrap on my j-tubes and 2/3 of my mearged exhaust that stuff is amazing it lowered my over all temp and the car dosent pick up and heat at idle I can hold my hand on the j-tubes for a couple seconds! I can tell the difference when I put my hand infront of the exhaust tip it forces the exhaust to do it's job and direct the heat through the exhaust and not let it radiate out of the exhaust I am stoked about the new wrap super easy to apply to the pipes took me about an hour. If u have a merged exhaust u need this!
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kenworth
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wrap works great however on our race cars we just ceramic coat them it does tha same thing only you do not want to touch them .Retaining exhaust heat is a good thing .And although ceramic coating last longer it is a little pricey . The problem we had for years with the wrap is you will wear out the exhaust a lot quicker with it wrapped compared to ceramic coating . Not only do the wraps retain heat then tend to hold moisture in them when not running and cooled down and promote a lot of rust . Your results may vary but that is just what we saw . Most header companies state in the instructions that you void the warranty if you wrap them just a thought .JEFF
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68beetleman
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks jeff. But the exhaust is a old beater exhaust. I'm ready to sacrifice my exaust to keep my motor running inthe proper temp range I bought the glass pack for 10$. But I apreciate the heads up. So how song is the life of ur exhaust when it's ceramic coated, because I was looking at a pair of ceramic coated heater boxes but are they with the price?
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Nirvana92
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesnt the wrap cause rust?
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops my bad I just saw where it says it causes rust
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can tell you on both .On the toyota race truck we have 115 races on it and 13 years ,that is on a 22re 94 toyota 2 wheel drive . It has been on 15 motors over those years . On my vw I have very little milage, but my dads has 92,000 on the same euro sport I have and even though it is loud it cleans up with simple green and has been on 2 motors a 1641 and a 1776. It is well worth it .In your case and for the little amount of money you spent, it was a wise decision to wrap it .When it rusts out AND you get a new one just get it coated and probably never buy another . I should say that this is probably the only empi product I never had trouble with .The only one so far lol JEFF
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
0-180 too cool
180-210 normal
210-230 hot but OK
230-250 very hot
250+ turn it off

Now for those of you that can get your temp up to 180 in 21 degree weather raise your hands. Mine didnt get above 130. Could have been the very remote sending unit.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
Now for those of you that can get your temp up to 180 in 21 degree weather raise your hands. Mine didnt get above 130. Could have been the very remote sending unit.

Could be missing tin, flaps and thermostat.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as far as I know all tin is there. Flaps and thermostat too. I had a tee screwed into the oil pressure switch hole so I could have the light and the temp sender. So the sender was 2 inches away from the hole. If this engines supposed to get 180 even in the winter 21 degree weather then Id better test it or figure out why it ran cold next winter.
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Greg in GA
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quartermilecamel wrote:
I had a tee screwed into the oil pressure switch hole so I could have the light and the temp sender.



There's no oil moving past the sender when its screwed into the oil pressure switch. The temp there is probably closer to room temp than engine temp. It needs to be in the oil drain plug or the oil relief plug.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I have replaced it with the oil pressure relief plug sender now so we will see.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still think the ultimate oil temperature reading would be AFTER the oil cooler, between it and the main bearings, but that's not a very easy place to monitor...

Didn't see this earlier but I want to comment.... Muffler wrap, holy crap, you're not kidding about that rust! I thought I'd try wrap on my Baja bug on the pipes next to my filter-pump oil filter. It did this to my header!:

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Muffler wrap, holy crap, you're not kidding about that rust! I thought I'd try wrap on my Baja bug on the pipes next to my filter-pump oil filter. It did this to my header!
-Andy


After how long andy?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was about 25 months.
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