Smokey Engine Bay

[TrooperBrice]

I've been working on my first VW, a '69 AutoBug with a post-'73 1600dp engine. I have been noticing that after a few miles on the highway I get some smoke coming from the engine bay. I haven't been able to find any real point of origin for the smoke, just seems to be in general coming from under the tins - but some also comes out from the air cleaner. I do know I leak oil quite a bit, and I need a valve adjustment and carb rebuild as well, but I am wondering if these alone might be the cause of the issue. Thoughts?

[68IHscout]

Try degreasing and washing th oil of you're exhaust ,most likely its getting burnt up when it hits the exhaust manifold ,and with a clean engine you can see where the leak(s) are coming from good luck

[Wolfgangdieter]

Plus you lower risk of it catching fire.
_________________
CMC '57 Porsche Speedster Replica and Dolphin boat tailed full pan VW MOD-T Street Buggy

[TrooperBrice]

I cleaned off then engine to look for the leaks, and after driving a few miles again it was literally covered in gunk again. So, judging by the condition of the hoses I replaced already, and every other bit of rubber on the car, I am just going to do a pre-emptive rebuild on the whole assembly. I plan on tearing the engine down and replacing all of its gaskets and maybe the spark plugs and wires as well.

[candymustang65]

Ehh Im not much on helpin Law Dog's these day's wish I felt differently ?
But to be human is to error in judgement ?
So first thing you need to do is find out why she is blowin oil .
All the seal's and silicone in the world arent gonna stop a 100 PSI of compression from leaking into the engine case and pushing oil out every where .
But many thing's could be the cause of oil leakage .
A misting does sound a lott like either the baffle plate under the Gen / Alt stand was installed wrong or combustion is leaking past the ring's valves etc intoo the case that can only stand about 60 PSI before she start's pushing oil .
But Timming or wrong valve adjustment will also cause this to a certain degree .
Best indicator that there's a serious problem is remove the valve cover and look at the interior of the head's .
Are they shiney or black and sooty and scorched looking ?
Another is to hand compression test .
Remove the distributor capp then crank the engine over via a socket and wratchet on the Gen / Alt pulley nut while observeing the distributor rotor and at what cyl. it is pointing torwards on the cap as if it were installed per the capp notch .
You can feel the compression everytime the rotor comes up on the capp plug wire receptacle per fire-ing that cylinder .
Find a weak cylinder ?
Back the valve adjuster off and re -test the compression to see if the cylinder come's up some .
To tight of a valve adjustment will hold a valve partially open allowing for compression to leak intoo head's and case etc.
This is why you backed the valve adjuster off and re - tested compression on the low cylinder .
Post your result's .
I will try to over look the Trooper part of your handle and see what we can come up with .
Note : You need to crank the engine over rather briskly by hand after she has been warmed up .
But really if the interior of the head under the valve covers is burnt lookin ?
Then most probably she is burnt toast ?
2nd Note : Most compression problem's are head related and not ring related .
Sean

[candymustang65]

P.S. here I thought about it ? 1969 Gen car too 73 Alt style car motor .
Any chance you converted from Altenator to Generator ?
chances are Gen/Alt stand baffle was either installed turned wrong or left out .
As described in my previous post .
Im bettin the Ranch here I nailed it ?
Sean

[TrooperBrice]

Well, I'm not a ticket-writing trooper. I'm a Cavalry Trooper with 2nd Squadron, 1st Cavalry Regiment so you'll not blotch your record on my account

There is all kinds of chance on this car that 'wrong' components have been mixed and matched into something that sort of works. It would seem that the last time the car was rebuilt (probably some time in the '80s by my feeble estimate) it was done on a very limited budget. I am too, but hopefully doing things over time I can do it right on that small amount of cash flow and do better. It won't be a show car, but my goal is to make something that would at least look nice and run good. And maybe still be a great classic for cruising around in. I will be checking all of these items you mentioned as I break it all down on Saturday. At the end a good compression test and valve adjustment are on the order as well. I'll post it all up when its done.

[TrooperBrice]

And the verdict is Leaking Oil Cooler Seals. The spraying oil was being carried up and around the engine by the cooling system and so I couldn't see where it was coming from. Only reason it was found was I had it at the shop for a no-start situation coming from an Idle Jet out of adjustment.