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rubbachicken Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2004 Posts: 3058 Location: socal
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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meaning, you need to take drugs to double nut the exhaust studs
Chuey wrote: |
Double nutting works well. That is, as long as you aren't Lance Armstrong.
Chuey |
_________________ lucy our westy
lucy's BIG adventure
meet 'burni'
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.
619 201 0310 or 617 935 4182 |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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rubbachicken wrote: |
nice work on the inter cooler move, are you going to box it inso the air from the fan can only go over the inter cooler ?? |
Thanks Mark. I didn't take a picture, but the fan is boxed in so the only path for air is to push it through the intercooler.
rubbachicken wrote: |
meaning, you need to take drugs to double nut the exhaust studs
Chuey wrote: |
Double nutting works well. That is, as long as you aren't Lance Armstrong.
Chuey |
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And you and Chuey are quite the comic duo. _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Sometimes I agonize over simple decisions. When it comes to buying tires I wanted a certain performance capability, aesthetics was a consideration, and longevity factored in. The BFG All/Terrain gets a great recommendation from the legions of Syncro's that run them. From all reports they are quiet and last a long time. But, they have a very aggressive lug pattern, and since I don't roll a Syncro, they may be overkill. In my search I came across the Yokohama Geolander A/T-S 215/75R15 Tires.
Load Index - 100, reportedly quiet, long life, competitive price, good traction in rain, subjectively good looking. What's not to like? I ordered up 4 of them.
Deciding whether to run White Letter Out. They are noticeably taller than my current Hankook 215/70R15's.
Tire shop wait was boring
Add we're done.
For the short drive through town they were very quiet. Heading out of town tonight to go camping this weekend. We'll see if my agonizing over this decision was worth it... _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Between last weekend and this weekend I have put over 700 miles on the new tires. They have been great. Very quiet. I have them aired to 42 lbs front and 46 lbs rear, and they handle fantastic. Got on some steep dirt roads today and never slipped a tire.
Last weekend I attended Mogfest. Dave Jordan and Bill Langan brought their Syncro's. And Matt Quilter brought out his newly finished Bluestar Syncro. It looked very nice and performed well. Here's a picture of Matt's Syncro taking a break out on the trail. For the record; I'm jealous!
Since I don't own a Syncro, I had to resort to other means. My friend Mark borrowed a Yamaha Rhino and I towed it up to Calico for us to play with.
The week before Mogfest Mark wondered if my 1.8t could even tow the trailer and Rhino. I think his question was answered since he was in the van when I went up the Cajon Pass at 55 MPH towing the trailer easily, even up the 6% grade. I could have towed it faster if I wanted to, but it was dark, there was construction, and a lot of Vegas traffic to deal with. 55 seemed like a good speed. From my house to Calico is approximately 100 miles, mostly uphill the entire way. My MPG dropped to 12.5 on the way up.
I have been working out a deal will Bill Langan to buy his CHC top he used to run on his Syncro. This morning I left the house at 4AM to head up to his house and pick it up. My house to Bill's is 360 miles one way. It was a beautiful cool day to travel and I enjoyed the journey.
Knowing I would be getting the top soon I removed the AC ducting from the ceiling and removed the solar, racks, and box off the roof during the week. Bill surprised me by offering to send me home with a Westy Roof as well as the Country Homes. I love extra parts. We slid both roofs inside the van.
Before I install the CHC top I need to scuff it up and repaint it. I'm thinking I'll color match it to the van. Well, at least to the color the van is supposed to be. I'm not gonna paint it with peeling clear coat and faded color.
I do have this one spot to repair before I paint it. This is the earlier plastic CHC top, not the fiberglass version. Any ideas on how I should go about fixing this? I don't care if it is perfect, but reasonably smooth and waterproof would be good.
_________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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Chuey Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Oceanside, California
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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Tim, I'm handy with epoxy and fiberglass. That is how I'd fix that hole.
As far as the "Lance Armstrong/double nut" reference.......he has had one testicle removed due to his testicular cancer. "Double nut". Get it? It's common knowledge in the bike world and the source of a bit of humor now and then.
Chuey |
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0cean Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2012 Posts: 1149 Location: California
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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shadetreetim wrote: |
. Any ideas on how I should go about fixing this? I don't care if it is perfect, but reasonably smooth and waterproof would be good.
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If you use fiberglass I would:
Get some heavy woven fiberglass from Home depot along with some 2 to 1 ratio epoxy, and 220 grit sand paper.
1. Sand around the cracked area top and bottom.
2. From the bottom = Put a sheet of fiberglass on the inside and let dry. This will be the base.
3. From the top = cut up some fiberglass into small pieces and fill the hole from the top until built up. Add resin and then put a piece of fiberglass cloth over the top.
4. Sand by hand the desired shape of the corner.
5. Paint _________________ I'm not a mechanic, I just play one on the internet
Cluster Rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569920&highlight=
Left for Dead the Resurrection Story Build:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=613669
(Number of Different Donor VW Vans Body Parts Used: 12)
(Number of completely different vehicles parts used: 3) |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, I have some fiberglass cloth and resin. Was thinking that would be the best way to go. Now I just need to get out there and get it done. _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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SyncroJack Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2010 Posts: 94 Location: Vancouver, WA
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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I ended up using Stage8 locking nuts for the turbo to downpipe nuts. They kept rattling loose on mine, even with new "locking" nuts. Grrrr.... With the way the Stage8's lock there is NO way they can rattle loose now.
-Jack _________________ 86 Syncro 1.8T power!, 76 Westy |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:23 am Post subject: |
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SyncroJack wrote: |
I ended up using Stage8 locking nuts for the turbo to downpipe nuts. They kept rattling loose on mine, even with new "locking" nuts. Grrrr.... With the way the Stage8's lock there is NO way they can rattle loose now.
-Jack |
Yeah, I have a slight exhaust leak now, a legacy from the loose nuts. I need to order a new gasket and some good locking nuts so I can quit imitating Lance Armstrong... _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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Haven't had a lot of free time, but I have managed to do a little work on the top. Chipping away at the cracked drivers side corner, it turned out to be bigger than it appeared. Then I pried at a few cracks on the passenger corner and it had damage as well. Not surprising as it came off of cvbill's well used Syncro.
I laid up some fiberglass on the drivers side, inside and out, let it set overnight, then added another couple of layers outside to build it up. Still need to sand it down and get it a little closer to the correct profile.
The second night I did the first layers on the passenger side. Need to add another layer or two, and a lot of sanding.
Still trying to decide if I want to go body color? Or white? Or perhaps a light grey? I was leaning towards body color, but I think light grey would be cool and I already have some light grey enamel. I found some plastic primer I think I'll buy that then allows any paint to go over it. _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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rubbachicken Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2004 Posts: 3058 Location: socal
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Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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i'd go white tim, think of the sun beating down on it, it should be cooler inside if it's a lighter color. _________________ lucy our westy
lucy's BIG adventure
meet 'burni'
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.
619 201 0310 or 617 935 4182 |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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Working on the top I have discovered yet another crack. This one is on the drivers side front. Looking at cvbill's avatar of his Syncro on its side with this very top on it, I'm actually surprised its in as good a shape as it is.
The repair work is going pretty fast when I can actually work on it. The challenge is finding the time. Since it's on my driveway I don't have any lights set up out there to work on it after dark. Maybe I need to get some lights out there if I want to ever finish this. Saturday I rigged up a way to get the top up off the old Westy top it was sitting on without calling the neighbors over to help. In this picture the Westy top looks like it is floating under the CHC top. It's actually sitting on two saw horses and a piece of plywood.
If it sounds like I'm complaining about not having enough time to work on the top, I'm not. I get to spend time with two of my favorite people, taking my grand-daughter to the pumpkin patch Saturday afternoon.
_________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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kryptkat Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2008 Posts: 236
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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Body color poptop would be my first choice, off-white would be my 2nd but light grey is hard to beat (wink, wink). |
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luVWagn Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2008 Posts: 1340 Location: Snoqualmie (WA)
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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rubbachicken wrote: |
i'd go white tim, think of the sun beating down on it, it should be cooler inside if it's a lighter color. |
Do what mine is? body colour on the sides/back, and white on the top. _________________ '91 Syncro 16 Reimo Hightop Conversion, eTDI |
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Chuey Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Oceanside, California
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 6:10 am Post subject: |
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I like the way the gray shelf looks against the van color you have. The idea of gray with white on the top hasn't been mentioned but seems like it could work.
There's something about a medium gray that says "function" and looks clean and fresh to me. And yes, kryptcat's light gray has a good look as well.
Gray is the new black?
Chuey |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for sharing your thoughts guys. I must admit, when I read the comments regarding grey, I mentally nod my head in agreement. I "think" that's the way I'll go, it's only paint, and I reserve the right to change my mind suddenly and without notice.
Got a little sanding done today. No more green paint! And a quick coat of primer on the corner patches. Still need to spread a thin coat of bondo over them to finish up. The front corner has been sanded down and the crack exposed. Still need to get after it with the fiberglass.
Bill had added this metal rib down the center of the top to stiffen the top and keep it from sagging. My current plan is to modify it to mount the solar panel to. But I have been thinking of alternative methods to accomplish the same goals. May be better off done in aluminum. We'll see...
_________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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Chuey Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Oceanside, California
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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I tried some angle aluminum to stiffen a gate at home. It isn't nearly as stiff, structurally, as I expected. I ended up using steel angle. It did the trick. I was surprised at how easily the aluminum followed the bend the gate wanted to have.
As you are fixing the crack, you may be entertained by this mantra from Chuey: "Just say no to crack."
Cheers, Chuey |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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I keep saying no to crack, Chuey.
All the cracks have finally been repaired. Just touching it up with some spot putty.
I had been debating the best way to mount the solar panel. I wanted to keep the ridge brace cvbill added to the top, but also mount the panel as low as possible. The solar panel itself has a pretty rigid aluminum frame. I cut all but the bottom strip off of the square tubing and welded in some angle iron to mount the solar panel to front and rear. I'm going to add 4 additional mounts, 2 per side, out close to the corners to strengthen it further.
As soon as I get the 4 mounts installed and then a little more sanding and smoothing, I'll be ready for paint. I can't wait. For some reason this project seems to be dragging along. The actual mounting of the top on the van should be quick in comparison. _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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Chuey Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Oceanside, California
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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Tim, I have found that for a vehicle to hold its appeal for me, it has to offer me some project potential. A couple cars I've owned didn't need anything from me and didn't actually lend themselves to being worked on by me.
I sense that it may be the same for you.
Chuey |
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shadetreetim Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 1994 Location: Riverside, California
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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This project took a huge leap forward this weekend. Saturday morning I got out on the driveway and cut the hole in my roof. No turning back now, right? I used a combination of die grinder and jig saw. Before I started metal work I cut a hole in the headliner and pulled out the 3 metal ribs that hold it up. That allowed the headliner to sag and prevented my jig saw blade from cutting it.
After cutting the hole I drove under the top, which was suspended from 4 ratchet ties from the frame of my carport. This method was born of necessity as I didn't want to wait for help to arrive, but I really think it worked out easier than having 4 people lift it onto the van, as had been suggested to me.
After getting the top in place, I realized it really should move backwards a 1/2", so I slid it back and cut out another section using my die grinder. At this point my die grinder, a 5 year old cheapie from Harbor Freight, overheated and caught fire internally. I came staggering out of the van with smoke billowing around me, grinder spitting flames. I've cut a lot of metal with this old piece of crap grinder. I had just a short section to finish up with the jog saw, then it was time to bolt it down.
Saturday and today I haven't been able to kick it in high gear. I work for a few minutes, then go inside for a few more. Repeating that pattern all day. After getting the top on I moved inside for the night. This morning I went out and finished up the trim around the opening. Cutting thin wood strips to back the ABS trim pieces. Running a wire up to the drivers interior light to energize the new one in the top. Stretching the headliner and gluing it into the opening. Attaching the vinyl covered wood trim to finish off the headliner. And finally mounting the clips the 4 hold downs clip to.
After that I ran wire for my solar panel and got it re-installed.
I ordered a new 3rd brake light to mount on the back of the CHC top. My old one (from a Suburban) mounted to the roof, but the top covers up that location now. The new light can be wired for running lights, turn signals and brake if needed. I am pondering wiring the running lights and the brake lights in my application.
Got it out this evening for the maiden voyage with the new top. Interior noise seems unaffected by the change, so far. I haven't gotten on the freeway yet.
No pics of the interior yet. I still need to source an interior ceiling mount LED light to mount where the original was. The original light was missing when I bought the top. And I want to recover the vinyl trim around the opening. Currently it is dark brown vinyl, which doesn't look that good with my grey interior. And I'm thinking about covering all the interior plastic with some type of cloth. The interior plastic is all yellowed with age and there's the occasion crack showing. Though I might lay up some fiberglass in the cracked areas, then cover it all up. We'll see. It is camp-able as is.
On to another story... as you may remember, before we left for our camping trip this past summer, I had installed an alternator from Auto Zone, and it failed while in the boonies of Utah. After returning home, I took it back and received another alternator from them. That alternator now has approximately 1500 miles on it. This past week, returning from the gym, the alternator light came on again. Yep. My second alternator from Auto Zone has failed.
What I want to do is throw this piece of crap alternator through Auto Zones front window. What I decided would be a more prudent course of action was to install an alternator I had picked up at a salvage from an Audi. This alternator is a direct replacement, but it is 120 amps instead of 90 amps. It bolted right on and works perfectly. Now I will take this Auto Zone POS back and see if they will refund my money. Probably not, but if nothing else, I'll get it replaced, again, and carry it under the seat as my backup. That through the front window return option though... _________________ Tim Potts
Doing my best every time I drive it to dispel the myth these Vanagons have to be slow!
'89 Vanagon Bluestar/Country Homes 1.8T & .77 4th
'74 Jeep CJ5 |
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