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The importance of choosing the correct oil weight.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugninva wrote:
vwracerdave wrote:
And there is nothing wronmg with using 40 year old technology on a 40 year old car.


I agree, bit you can't get that with oil.... Wink


Sure he can, I have a '34 Chevy truck outside that last was on the road back in the early 60's, it is still full of oil I would sell to him. Oops, that is 50 year old oil, not 40. Should be close enough though.
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:


Sure he can, I have a '34 Chevy truck outside that last was on the road back in the early 60's, it is still full of oil I would sell to him. Oops, that is 50 year old oil, not 40. Should be close enough though.

I stand corrected... I guess if you search hard enough you can get whatever you need. I have a friend with several cases of old oil in the cans... he displays it with his old gaspump and station signs in his garage.
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Thundercleese88
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok question (and I have read through this thread). I have a VDO pressure gauge that goes from 0-70 psi. I just got my car and the PO had 10w-30 in it and at cold start up in Georgia in August I had 35 psi. Once the engine was warm I would have about 5 psi at idle and about 30 psi at 60 mph in 4th. I noticed that after a long drive my pressure would show about 3 psi at idle and the green light would come on. When I would get up to speed I would have about 25 psi. I also noticed my motor seemed really hot and smelled it. Yesterday I changed my oil and decided to go to 20w-50 and see what happened. Today at cold start up I showed 40 psi steady and once warmed up a had 12 psi at idle and about 35psi at 60 mph in 4 th. I also noticed when I got to work that I was able to hold the dip stick and check the oil without getting burned. Does this mean my engine benefits from the heavier oil or what is my engine saying? (I'm new to ACVWs)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hot pressures with the 20W-50 look normal so with essentially 50W oil in your warmed up engine either your engine is worn out or it was built with incredibly loose tolerances.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Thundercleese88
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My engine has 10,000 miles since its last rebuild so I am guessing my tolerances are just loose? Motor runs excellent, starts first crank and has good power.
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udidwht
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thundercleese88 wrote:
My engine has 10,000 miles since its last rebuild so I am guessing my tolerances are just loose? Motor runs excellent, starts first crank and has good power.


Or you have an issue with a relief valve.
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Thundercleese88
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, what could be wrong with the relief valve and how could I check it? On my second trip between work and school today(5 mi in town), I'm seeing about 18 psi at idle warm (not hot like the 20 mile trip to work this morning) and about 38 psi at 60 in 4th, dip stick stingy but able to be held and checked. I'm starting to think maybe a 15w-40 since the 10w-30 seemed too thin. Hate to waste the $20 in oil I just spent but it's cheaper than bearings. Any ideas?
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808OvalGreasemonkey
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is something to throw inthe bonfire,the guy that runs Zims Porsche recommends heavy oil. Zims has been around forever and is Porsche only.
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Almost Alive
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoa. I've been severely neglecting this post... looks like I didn't miss much. The past ten pages of discussion is redundant garbage with exception of what John and Jake wrote.
I am glad however the topic is getting the attention it needs.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it needs?? ok hear it is.if your oil is too thin add a thickener(as in if you have 10-30& need to be thicker and dont want to WASTE the oil in it now, change the filter or dump out a qt & add a qt of 50 to it, that should thicken it up a bit.or the good ole stp/motor honny/eos/no smoke will do it too.and if it smokes much the no smoke will usualy help it out.or you can add a can of restore or CLM if it's still avaliable, I would stay clear of the slick 50 shit it can&does clog coolers. just remember as with everything else, if you dont want to see something happen, just stick your head in a hole do nothing and dont watch.
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Kevinx
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this has been an interesting read. Oil threads here read like the threads in every type of vehicle ever made. The statement "Oil is like religion" is new to me, but incredibly accurate.
Now being a mechanic for a Victory Motorcycle dealer for a long time. I'm trying something totaly out of the box from what I have read. The engine in my 70 type 1 was built by someone in Cali earlier this year. I know nothing about it; other then it is a 1600sp, runs relatively well, but seems a bit loose. Sooooo looking at the Victory's in my shop, and thinking about it. Air over oil cooled with a small passage thermostatically controlled cooler, gear drive on the primary side, and lots of gears in the trans providing oodles of shear. I figured I would give their 20/40 semi synth oil a try. Not to heavy, not to thin, and designed with heat transfer in mind. Guess I'll keep an eye on it to see how it handles pressure and temp over the next year
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are the zinc and phosphorus levels in that Victory oil?
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
What are the zinc and phosphorus levels in that Victory oil?

My thoughts exactly. I bet they have overhead cam and hydraulic lifters.

But that discussion belongs in the Official "What oil should I use" topic

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thundercleese88 wrote:
Ok question (and I have read through this thread). I have a VDO pressure gauge that goes from 0-70 psi. I just got my car and the PO had 10w-30 in it and at cold start up in Georgia in August I had 35 psi. Once the engine was warm I would have about 5 psi at idle and about 30 psi at 60 mph in 4th. I noticed that after a long drive my pressure would show about 3 psi at idle and the green light would come on. When I would get up to speed I would have about 25 psi. I also noticed my motor seemed really hot and smelled it. Yesterday I changed my oil and decided to go to 20w-50 and see what happened. Today at cold start up I showed 40 psi steady and once warmed up a had 12 psi at idle and about 35psi at 60 mph in 4 th. I also noticed when I got to work that I was able to hold the dip stick and check the oil without getting burned. Does this mean my engine benefits from the heavier oil or what is my engine saying? (I'm new to ACVWs)


You just found the right oil for your engine. Stick with it she is happy. It's almost the same with mine but my oil is 10/30.
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808OvalGreasemonkey
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did my "thinner oil experiment",I went from straight 50 wt. to 40 wt.,all I noticed was lower oil pressure at idle,max temps were.215-220 on my Manly dipstick, I went back to straight 50 wt. (both weights were Valvoline ZR-1 brand) AND....higher oil pressure at idle & cruise and max temps 215!
In my real life experience 50 wt. gave me better oil pressure and 5 degree cooler temps. So I am sticking with the straight 50.
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Kevinx
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarthWeber wrote:
What are the zinc and phosphorus levels in that Victory oil?


Zinc levels are high to combat shear characteristics of having the trans in the same case. Not sure about phosphorous levels. After reading this thread though I should have considered the PS4 ATV oil. It is a full synth 0w40
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Dan Ruddock
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to run thick oil. Why, because I like to push the envelope on cam, rocker ratio and strong valve springs. Thick oil protects cam and lifters better which keeps more iron wear metals out of my oil.

My engine does not use the VW pressure controlled oil cooler bypass system but uses a true temperature controlled thermostat like a water cooled engine uses. All the oil goes threw the cooler when the engine is warm and none goes threw it when it is cold no matter what weight oil is used.

This is the way it is done on a Porsche 911. Vw's are an economy car and the pressure controlled system is cheap to do. I will usually run XX-40 or XX-50 weight and I set up my engines on the loose side. Dan

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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan Ruddock wrote:
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whats the part number on that nifty item?
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Dan Ruddock
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know the # but this one is in the classifieds now. Dan


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1399887
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you preventing any oil from flowing through the cooler when cold and how do you keep it filled with oil?

I found some of this thread interesting and informative, with a lot of irrelevant opitions and posturing as well, of course. Still think 15W40 or 10W40 for a fresh and tight engine is about right in these parts. Never suffered from overheating with these.

The cooler probably kicks in at a different temperature with the "thicker" oil, but the viscosity 15 or 20 of a multigrade 40 or 50 is still well below that required to allow the bypass valve to close so I wonder how scientific the original "tests" were. Of course a single weight oil could be problematic, but it was with the original 30 weight if it was used out of season, too.
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