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Dan Ruddock
Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2012
Posts: 3594
Location: Sarasota, in my adopted state of Florida
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 Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:17 am Post subject: |
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| Quokka42 wrote: |
| How are you preventing any oil from flowing through the cooler when cold and how do you keep it filled with oil? |
First off my engine/car is a highy modified 1900cc 1957 356 porsche. It has been dry sumped and the stock in the shroud oil cooler is in place but has no oil going threw it or in it (case holes welded up). Has type 4 oil cooler mounted in the front horn grill with in line themostat as above.
Has external pressue relief valve and the bleed off is sent threw a filter and then back to the tank. The stock in the case spring a piston has been removed.
I am in the process of building a 2200cc type one engine using all the same oiling system stuff as an extra engine for my Porsche. VW engine in a Porsche? Sacrilege. Dan |
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bodysnatcher89
Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2008
Posts: 32
Location: los angeles
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:42 am Post subject: |
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| Hi I have a 1835cc motor in my 72 superbeetle and my oil presure has been too high when warming up its at 80 psi and this morning warming it up my oil filter popped what oil should I run im using 10w40 my friends said go 5w30 what oil should I run to get tge pressure down |
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Dan Ruddock
Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2012
Posts: 3594
Location: Sarasota, in my adopted state of Florida
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:04 am Post subject: |
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| bodysnatcher89 wrote: |
| Hi I have a 1835cc motor in my 72 superbeetle and my oil presure has been too high when warming up its at 80 psi and this morning warming it up my oil filter popped what oil should I run im using 10w40 my friends said go 5w30 what oil should I run to get tge pressure down |
What size oil pump do you have? Dan |
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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10W40 is a lot thinner than the old 30 weight when cold, so I don't think it's your problem. It would need to be pretty cold to get that kind of pressure, though it seems strange that your oil filter popped. You have been running one of the better filters designed to cope with high pressure, haven't you?
Ordinary filters can blow at such pressures, which aren't that unusual in a VW.
I admit it doesn't get below freezing here, and I spent most of my life where it's a bit warmer - just how cold does it get there?
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There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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| bodysnatcher89 wrote: |
| Hi I have a 1835cc motor in my 72 superbeetle and my oil presure has been too high when warming up its at 80 psi and this morning warming it up my oil filter popped what oil should I run im using 10w40 my friends said go 5w30 what oil should I run to get tge pressure down |
Not knowing how your system is plumbed or where you oil pressure gauge is hooked in makes it hard to understand what happened. The pressure at your filter could be much higher than what is being seen at your gauge. In a place as warm as LA you shouldn't need an particularly thin oil to keep your pressures under control at start up. |
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pintail78
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2013
Posts: 97
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 8:41 am Post subject: |
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Im in san diego, stock nearly new motor. Does 40wt in summer (70-85 generally) and 30wt in winter (55-65) sound reasonable?
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1968 Transporter Bus |
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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You're never going to need more than 30wt with a max of 85F - in fact, if you insist on using single grade oil, you will probably have to find 20wt for winter. Use multigrade and be done with it.
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Jimmy111
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2006
Posts: 2643
Location: Wyoming
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| Posted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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The best viscosity is the one that works. However im a fan of 0W-30.  |
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aryue
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2006
Posts: 1027
Location: Austin, TX
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:48 am Post subject: |
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| pintail78 wrote: |
| Im in san diego, stock nearly new motor. Does 40wt in summer (70-85 generally) and 30wt in winter (55-65) sound reasonable? |
To run straight 40w oil in your climate does not sound reasonable.
If you were trying to nurse a tired old engine to get across West Texas in the afternoon in August - then I'd give straight 40w some consideration. Even then I wouldn't put the vehicle in gear until after a good 5 minute warm up and then drive it slow until the engine came up to operating temperature.
If you are stuck on using an old-school, conventional single viscosity oil in your climate - then straight 30 will do the job.
Multi-grade oils like a modern 10w30 provide superior lubrication while the engine is warming up to operating temperature.
With regard to warming up the engine: When your engine is stone cold and warming up - that is when most of the wear occurs. That is why you see so many folks using multigrade oil. So, if you use an old-school straight 30w oil - then do warm up the engine for a few minutes before pulling out of the driveway each morning.
All of the top ten oils shown on the bottom page 145 of the oil sticky are good oils and will work well in a stock 1600 engine. As mentioned - let your oil pressure and temperature gauges be your guide as to what viscosity range works best for a particular engine.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755&start=2880
- Andrew in Austin, TX -
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OldandSlow - but still chuggin.
http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/VW/VWBus.html |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:08 am Post subject: |
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| aryue wrote: |
With regard to warming up the engine: When your engine is stone cold and warming up - that is when most of the wear occurs. That is why you see so many folks using multigrade oil. So, if you use an old-school straight 30w oil - then do warm up the engine for a few minutes before pulling out of the driveway each morning. |
Straight 40 is going to lube just fine on the coldest day in San Diego. If you actually read the stuff written by the SAE on cold start wear you will see they are saying the wear comes from the build up of moisture in a cold/cool engine and not from the inability of the thicker oil to lubricate. If you let the engine slowly warm up for several minutes before taking off you are increasing the time the engine is cold and thus making the so called "cold start" wear worse not better. |
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pintail78
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2013
Posts: 97
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:39 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the input, I appreciate it! Im thinking 10w40 in the summer and 10w30 in winter.......should cover it all. Probably either would work fine year around though.
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1968 Transporter Bus |
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landonvan
Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2013
Posts: 34
Location: hawaii
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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| PinTail..... You should try a few different oils to see what your motor likes. Your temp changes from winter to summer are not that drastic. Its not like the east coast where the summers are in the 90s and the winters are in the teens. Your could just run a 10w30 all year. Especially if you park your bug in a garage. Just try a couple oils run it and see what the temps and pressure are. keeping to the old 10psi per 1k rpm rule. And don't worry about the pressure at start up unless its crazy high. |
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neil68
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2007
Posts: 3440
Location: Calgary, Canada
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 3:11 pm Post subject: oil weight |
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Multi-grades are indeed a better choice for your climate. While I haven't lived in San Diego, I have visited often, and at various times of the year and it gets quite cool especially fall and winter. I would never run a 40wt oil there, even in the summer. You have to think about the Beetle's oil pressures and the cooler by-pass system. 10W30 and 10W40 are good choices, I also like 5W40, but it's not as readily available.
I run 5W30 and 0W30, but I live in a cool climate...you wouldn't need those.
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Neil.
Der Kleiner Rennwagens
68 Beetle 2332 cc, 204 WHP
12.5 seconds @ 107 mph
Dynojet Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo |
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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| landonvan wrote: |
| PinTail..... You should try a few different oils to see what your motor likes. Your temp changes from winter to summer are not that drastic. Its not like the east coast where the summers are in the 90s and the winters are in the teens. Your could just run a 10w30 all year. Especially if you park your bug in a garage. Just try a couple oils run it and see what the temps and pressure are. keeping to the old 10psi per 1k rpm rule. And don't worry about the pressure at start up unless its crazy high. |
That's some good advice right there.
If your engine struggles to prime, you won't lose anything by going to a 15W40 from a 10W40 for example.
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There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross. |
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pintail78
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2013
Posts: 97
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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You all are awesome, I was stressing about it. I'm going to go with 10w40 summer and 10w30 winter. I've owned a bunch of old BMW's 2002's etc and always run straight castrol, so in the religious aspect I'm going with that plus an additive. I found some good info here on how much to add, its pretty cheap in bulk and should do the job. Check it out its interesting, the onl one I could find that had enough info to make an informed decision....
http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief7%20-%20Oil%20Additive%20Dosing%20and%20Dilution.pdf
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1968 Transporter Bus |
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Steve Arndt
Samba Member
Joined: August 01, 2005
Posts: 1780
Location: Boise, Idaho
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aryue
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2006
Posts: 1027
Location: Austin, TX
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Fleisch
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2013
Posts: 10
Location: Sonoma County, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 11:42 am Post subject: |
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This is a well debated and very important topic so I can't possibly add my opinion to it but I did find an informative link:
http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_oil.html
I only read about 6 pages of this discussion - no time to read 23! So I apologize if someone else already linked this information. |
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1970VWGUY
Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013
Posts: 864
Location: Natrona Heights, PA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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I agree....so now after 23 pages of 10,000 different oils and weights...I saw a video on youtube with a guy that uses oil made for diesel engines because he says the beetle motors run hot and the diesel oil is made for higher temps...he uses 15-40
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJD28DD4fT4 |
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Quokka42
Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010
Posts: 3117
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, the internet is full of opinions, but stroll on over and read the oil sticky - there are guys who swear by diesel oils, but the experts will tell you the higher detergents necessary in a diesel oil decrease it's shear strength increasing wear on the motor. Modern engine oils have very high temperature tolerances, and if you need more there are synthetics with the requisite anti-scuff properties these days.
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