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The importance of choosing the correct oil weight.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1970VWGUY wrote:
I agree....so now after 23 pages of 10,000 different oils and weights...I saw a video on youtube with a guy that uses oil made for diesel engines because he says the beetle motors run hot and the diesel oil is made for higher temps...he uses 15-40

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJD28DD4fT4

He's using Shell Rotella T. 5 years ago they reformulated it and reduced the amount of zinc. I have since switched to Brad Penn which has plenty of zinc.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1970VWGUY wrote:
I agree....so now after 23 pages of 10,000 different oils and weights...I saw a video on youtube with a guy that uses oil made for diesel engines because he says the beetle motors run hot and the diesel oil is made for higher temps...he uses 15-40

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJD28DD4fT4

Diesel oil is the WRONG oil for a gasoline engine. Every oil co will tell you this. Every car maker will tell you this.
My oil temp is no different than the normal oil temp of a watercooled car. Solve the problem of overheating, don't cover it up with the wrong oil.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
1970VWGUY wrote:
I agree....so now after 23 pages of 10,000 different oils and weights...I saw a video on youtube with a guy that uses oil made for diesel engines because he says the beetle motors run hot and the diesel oil is made for higher temps...he uses 15-40

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJD28DD4fT4

Diesel oil is the WRONG oil for a gasoline engine. Every oil co will tell you this. Every car maker will tell you this.
My oil temp is no different than the normal oil temp of a watercooled car. Solve the problem of overheating, don't cover it up with the wrong oil.


At the places most of us buy oil you would be hard pressed to find a Diesel rated oil that didn't also have an "S" rating for use in a gasoline engine. Walmart or your local FLAPS will probably have a selection of both 5w40 synthetic "Diesel" oils and 15w40 "dino" Diesel oils all of which are apt to have an "S" rating.
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Koeppler
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if I should be asking my question here or in the official oil sticky so please re-direct me if necessary!

Now that we're having one of the realest winters in a while in my area, I'm getting some top end oil leaks. It seems to burst out once or twice a drive whether on the highway or local. First out from under the fuel pump hold down nuts and then after I tightened those down, it came out around the generator stand nuts. This winter, I'm running Castrol Edge (Syntec) 5W-50. Last winter I ran Valvoline 20W-50 but didn't have this problem though I drove a lot lot less so maybe it didn't crop up.

Even though I'm hitting the highway frequently for long drives and have the thermostat and flaps all set up right I'm still seeing a lot of that creamy goop in the breather hose and the oil filler cap. Anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour after I'm driving I'll smell a bit of oil burning and whenever I check, I've just burped up some oil so it's something that happens after the engine gets to a certain temp. It's not constant but will happen maybe 3 times on a 120 mile drive and once during a local trip to shop or whatever.

I guess the 5W in my oil is okay for these cold starts in 10*-30* weather but the 50 is too much for when I'm warmed up? Maybe I should be looking at a 5W-30?

It's a tired old 1600SP that's getting replaced in the spring but I want to make it until then without having to deal with any major problems!
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Koeppler wrote:
Maybe I should be looking at a 5W-30?

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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I daily drove an ACVW in -30* to -40*C winters all I ran was 10W30 and never had a problem with oil leakage or "burping" You've got something else going on inside the motor.

As for the while sludge. That's common on engines that never get up to temp long enough to evaporate the water out of the crankcase. And since these motors don't have a PCV system there is no way to actively draw out moisture in cold weather. Still see this in new cars with sealed crankcase systems. Unless you are getting enough to plug the filler hole in the stand don't worry about it. Wipe it off the filler cap once in a while so it doesn't heat up and drip back in the motor and carry on.

brad
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

slalombuggy wrote:
When I daily drove an ACVW in -30* to -40*C winters all I ran was 10W30 and never had a problem with oil leakage or "burping" You've got something else going on inside the motor.

As for the while sludge. That's common on engines that never get up to temp long enough to evaporate the water out of the crankcase. And since these motors don't have a PCV system there is no way to actively draw out moisture in cold weather. Still see this in new cars with sealed crankcase systems. Unless you are getting enough to plug the filler hole in the stand don't worry about it. Wipe it off the filler cap once in a while so it doesn't heat up and drip back in the motor and carry on.

brad


Well the temps are in the mid 30's (10* to 20* higher than they have been) by me today and the motor seemed less sluggish during warm up and was happier while driving than previous days. No oil burps today which is what has me thinking the 50 is too high for sub 30 temps.

What else could cause periodic oil burping in frigid temps?
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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never experienced you problem so I won't even guess at what's going on. I'd suggest changing your oil to 5w30 or 10w30 and see what happens.

brad
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would look for problems with your crankcase ventilation system. Maybe you have a blockage somewhere from the goo. Your oil may be foaming as well. Oil viscosity is going to have little or nothing to do with your having high crankcase pressure.

Water build up in the oil increase foaming and sometime oil manufacturers don't get the amount of antifoaming agents correct so the solution is often an oil change.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Wildthings. Your crankcase vent is getting restricted by the sludge. As your engine gets warmer, more blow-by is happening and pressurizing your crankcase. Is it also coming from behind the crank pulley? Do you run an oil pressure gauge? Switching to a thinner oil should cool your oil if anything, which is not really the solution. I would try to make sure your breather is free of sludge and clean the engine up a bit, then go for a drive with the oil you have in it and see if it still pukes on you. An oil change is still a good idea, that moisture in the oil gets corrosive and can eat up your bearings.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

expansion&contraction causes stuff to loosen and even pull threads.be skearful when tightening.dont over torque. how does the starter spin it over with that thick goo for oil??? I like my 5-20 syn, cold or hot weather.but yes it will find anly place to seep,I suprized it isant seaping from the front tires. no leeks or drips but some seeps over time.
there is nothing in the alt stand to create heet but the case is getting hot& expanding.you might need to replace the fretted&torn gaskets's under it.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
how does the starter spin it over with that thick goo for oil???


A 5w-xx oil should have an absolute viscosity of no greater than 6,600 cP @ -30°C and since a 5w50 oil has a higher viscosity index than your 5w-20, if you are seeing true arctic conditions the question might well be asked how do you get your engine to start with a thick goo like 5w20 when you could be running a thinner oil like 5w50? Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips guys. The starter spins it over fine as long as I depress the clutch while starting though some days it sounds a little more tired than others.

I put some Castrol Syntec 5W-30 in there today and I'll see what happens. It poured like water compared to the 5W-50. Also, when I pulled the 8" funnel out of the oil filler, it had tons of that white goop all over the last few inches of it, like there must be a huge plug of the stuff down in the oil filler. I blew out the line for the oil breather running into the base of my Kadron air filter and goop came out of there too. I might also look into my thermostat adjustment. I know I'm getting full open but maybe it's not all the way closed?

Temps tomorrow are supposed to drop about 15* or so from today down to about a high of only 22* so I should be able to tell how the oil treats me on cold start and initial running.
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famous geezer
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:10 am    Post subject: Oil? Reply with quote

Hello all, right his has been a good thread to read. But everyone is still on there own ideas and types they like to stick with!
So am i using the right oil??
Mobil 5w50 fully synthetic! £60 plus on last oil service.( not doing that agin)
In my kombi I am running
2074cc
92x78mm scat crank
40x35.5 cylinder heads
Engle 110 cam
Stock rods
200mm flywheel
Full flow with fram and oil rad
7.5to1 compression
1-25-1 rockers
34 chokes
180air
150mains
60idles
Not that most of this is needed.
So what do you think I should be using. It will e to see what you come up with!
Cheers
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:39 am    Post subject: Re: Oil? Reply with quote

famous geezer wrote:

So what do you think I should be using.


Your 5w50 Mobil 1 is probably fine as would be any of dozens of other oils.
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famous geezer
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so what should I be looking to use?
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:52 am    Post subject: Re: Oil? Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Your 5w50 Mobil 1 is probably fine as would be any of dozens of other oils.



He has an oil cooler. Assuming he lives in the UK and also has a thermostat, there's no reason to use anything but 5W-30. It doesn't get hot enough in the UK to warrant a 50 wt oil, and having a cooler means the 5W-30 will never get into thermal breakdown if it can shed enough heat.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: Oil? Reply with quote

miniman82 wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Your 5w50 Mobil 1 is probably fine as would be any of dozens of other oils.



He has an oil cooler. Assuming he lives in the UK and also has a thermostat, there's no reason to use anything but 5W-30. It doesn't get hot enough in the UK to warrant a 50 wt oil, and having a cooler means the 5W-30 will never get into thermal breakdown if it can shed enough heat.


I doubt seriously that he would notice any ill effects from running a 5w50 oil over a 5w30.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow I learned something today.I did not know that 5-50 was thinner than 5-20. I do know Ive seen oil pump drives from engines that ran 20-50&50&40 weight oils and the tang was almost gone.but thin(well what I thought was thin) dosent seem to do that.......wonder why?? wonder how much power thick oil eats up....mpg?....cavatation???cooler relieved???ill keep running my thick 5-20 goo in my stuff,I have gotten used to the seep...where ever it is.as long as it dont drip Im fine with it.I think it's a pourois case,I had it appart looking for it but couldent pin it down,not main seals,not cam seal,not sumpgasket....dosent seem to be case split,not pushrodtubes,not headstuds,not gally plugs,not cylinders,not oil pump,.rocker studs starting a slight seep now after 12 years of service(mofoco 042) I think it might be the deep sump,it's an oldschool typeI was told it was truhaft,but realy I dont know how old it is.I have 3 berg sumps,cb sump,scat sump on the shelf.....but it just seeps,no reason to change it for that. funny my bubble top aluminum case never seeped a bit,but it had the 3qt scat sump on it.darn mag stuff.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
wonder why??
Been running the same oil pump for the last 250K miles in my 1800. Pulled it out last week to inspect the o-ring as they tend to get brittle over time. Nothing more than some polishing on the drive tang. Over the years this engine has typically run 30wt (summer), 10w30 (winter), and more recently 5w40 (year around).

That you equate a 5w50 oil with a 20w50, 40wt, or 50wt shows how little you understand oil. A 5w50 is going to pump much more similarly to your 5w20 but offer added protection under extreme conditions such as when pulling long steep mountain passes with a heavily loaded rig instead of tooling around the easy flats of Florida.

Quote:
wow I learned something today.I did not know that 5-50 was thinner than 5-20.


You should read up and try and understand "viscosity index".
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