The importance of choosing the correct oil weight.

[Boolean]

Required reading for many posters here: http://www.sae.org/news/releases/rightoil.htm
B&S recommended straight oils for their engines many decades, and indeed sold these oils at elevated prices too. I suspect that this has something to do with making money.
Nowadays they actually recommend synthetic multigrade oils for all their engines - even though the designs are older than the VWAC engines.
_________________
I strive for perfection. Excellence will not be tolerated!
Build thread here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=529379

[Wildthings]

[Boolean]

The point was that even though the engine is as old as the VW, they now recommend modern oils. They recommend synthetic multigrade oil as it will give the best protection no matter where you live.
I now understand why North America is considered a very conservative oil market.
_________________
I strive for perfection. Excellence will not be tolerated!
Build thread here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=529379

[Wildthings]

[mark tucker]

what is short intervals? I change mine 1 time a year with about8- 10000 miles per year.I do change the filter and add a qt half way through the year. the oil is never black,looks better than the wifes honda's oil.on the dip stick it looks almost like it does when new.I agree I dont like wasting oil either.nor do I like wasting good engine parts. if you have a wear or blow by issue you may need to change it sooner. but as I see it these are low hp engines and high hp syn oil,so...1 time a year is good for mine and so far...no issues.( yes I dont like working on my car so it gets squat for maintanance or screwing with,just 1 time a year for everything weather it needs it or not,what works for me probably wont work for you as I build mine like a v8 performance engine and it dosent know it isant one)

[Boolean]

[quote="Wildthings"]

[mark tucker]

possiably they start it real slow 1 cylinder at a time??

[michaeljsmyth]

If starting your motor cold was so bad they would have invented oil preheaters or something.... they have only been using straight weight oil since forever and if it were an actual problem, worth worrying about, they would have done something about it. my motor doesnt get damaged or more wear from starting the motor cold. its a motor it starts cold every time you start it. and if my oil is cold around 60F its still going to work fine even on start up.

i would be more worried about whats in the oil. than multi vs single grade.
as in does your multi have enough ZDDP? phosphorus? or is it boron'ed out instead? the ZDDP and a couple other elements of the oil is where the real "DRY" lubrication and cold start up protection lies. just because my oils a bit thicker and maybe a tiny bit harder to pump doesnt mean its not lubricating even on startup...

Well now if you shut your motor down after running it, guess what the oil is still hot and will be hot for a long while (everything still covered in oil), like when you start your vehicle again after lunch ect ect. its not going to just instantly evaporate from your parts or something....

I think running my 40wt vr1 in the summer and 30w vr1 in the winter is taking better care of my VW than most. multiweight? sure if the CLIMATE calls for it. and only if i can find it locally with the properties the flat 4 needs.

VR1 product info http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

Valvoline VR1 10W30 Racing Oil conventional (Silver Bottle, lab tested 2011)
This one does NOT have the API symbol, but its text says it exceeds API SM
Silicon = 10 ppm (anti-foaming agent in new oil, but in used oil, certain gasket materials and dirt can also add to this number)
Boron = <5 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Magnesium = 73 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Calcium = 2707 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Barium = 3 ppm (detergent/dispersant, anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge)
Total detergent/dispersant (anti-deposit buildup/anti-sludge) = 2787 ppm
Zinc = 1472 ppm (anti-wear)
Phos = 1544 ppm (anti-wear)
Moly = 3 ppm (anti-wear)
Total anti-wear = 3019 ppm
Potassium = 6 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
Sodium = 380 ppm (anti-freeze inhibitor)
TBN = 7.6 (Total Base Number is an acid neutralizer to prevent corrosion. Most gasoline engine motor oils start with TBN around 8 or 9. And in use, this becomes depleted over time as mileage accumulates)
Viscosity (cSt at 100*C) = 11.0 (cSt range for SAE 30 is 9.3 to 12.4) And cSt (centistokes) in general terms, represents an oil’s thickness.
This oil is suitable for Classic Cars, High HP Street Hotrods and Street/Strip cars, as well as many dedicated race cars (including flat tappet setups and those with bronze dist gears).

----------------------------------------------

1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic = 115,612 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true.
zinc = 806 ppm
phos = 812 ppm
moly = 66 ppm

2. “USED” 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN with 5,000 miles on it = 107,391 psi
zinc = 791 ppm (down 251 ppm or down 24% from new)
phos =643 ppm (down 214 ppm or down 25% from new)
moly = 67 ppm (down 33 ppm or down 33% from new)
titanium = 36 ppm (down 13 ppm or down 27% from new)
total anti-wear = 1537 ppm (down 511 ppm or down 25% from new)

The 107,391 psi wear protection capability shown here, is a 7% “higher” wear protection capability with this batch of “used” oil, compared to the original “new” test oil batch. Repeat testing of both the used batch of oil and the original new batch of oil, resulted in consistent and repeatable results for each batch. So, the wear protection capability psi value shown here is correct. This oil did NOT lose any wear protection capability, even though the zinc and the other anti-wear component levels have dropped SIGNIFICANTLY.

3. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phos = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

4. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 105,875 psi
zinc = 801 ppm
phos = 842 ppm
moly = 112 ppm

5. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN synthetic = 105,008 psi
zinc = 824 ppm
phos = 960 ppm
moly = 161 ppm


6. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi
zinc = 1669 ppm
phos = 1518 ppm
moly = 784 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

7. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN synthetic = 103,517 psi
zinc = 606 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 28 ppm

8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

9. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi
zinc = 1180 ppm
phos = 1112 ppm
moly = 162 ppm

10. 5W30 Chevron Supreme, API SN conventional = 100,011 psi
This one only costs $4.29 per quart at the Auto Parts Store where I bought it.
zinc = 1018 ppm
phos = 728 ppm
moly = 161 ppm

11. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic = 99,983 psi
zinc = 1042 ppm
phos = 857 ppm
moly = 100 ppm
titanium = 49 ppm

12. 20W50 Castrol GTX ,API SN conventional = 96,514 psi
zinc = 610 ppm
phos = 754 ppm
moly = 94 ppm

13. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil synthetic = 96,470 psi
zinc = 2207 ppm
phos = 2052 ppm
moly = 1235 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

14. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN synthetic = 96,364 psi
zinc = 742 ppm
phos = 677 ppm
moly = 81 ppm

15. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN synthetic = 95,920 psi
zinc = 877 ppm
phos = 921 ppm
moly = 72 ppm

16. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic = 95,717 psi
zinc = 818 ppm
phos = 883 ppm
moly = 90 ppm
titanium = 44 ppm

17. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 NASCAR Racing Oil synthetic = 95,543 psi
zinc = 743 ppm
phos = 802 ppm
moly = 1125 ppm
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

18. 5W20 Castrol GTX, API SN conventional = 95,543 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
NOTE: Oil numbers 17 and 18 were tested weeks apart, but due to the similarities in their wear scar sizes, their averages ended up the same.

19. 5W30 Castrol GTX ,API SN conventional = 95,392 psi
zinc = 830 ppm
phos = 791 ppm
moly = 1 ppm

20. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil synthetic = 95,360 psi
zinc = 1431 ppm
phos = 1441 ppm
moly = 52 ppm

21. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,942 psi
zinc = 969 ppm
phos = 761 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

22. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

23. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 94,663 psi
zinc = 764 ppm
phos = 698 ppm
moly = 76 ppm

24. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN synthetic = 94,460 psi
zinc = 1045 ppm
phos = 742 ppm
moly = 0 ppm


25. 5W30 Lucas, API SN conventional = 92,073 psi
zinc = 992 ppm
phos = 760 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

26. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand), API SN conventional = 91,433 psi
This one only costs $3.99 per quart at the Auto Parts Store where I bought it.
zinc = 863 ppm
phos = 816 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

27. 5W30 Maxima RS530 Synthetic Racing Oil = 91,162 psi
zinc = 2162 ppm
phos = 2294 ppm
moly = 181 ppm

28. 5W30 Red Line, API SN synthetic = 91,028 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

29. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN synthetic = 90,434 psi
zinc = 964 ppm
phos = 892 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

30. 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL semi-synthetic = 90,226 psi
zinc = 1221 ppm
phos = 955 ppm
moly = 99 ppm

31. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD


32. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty, API SM conventional = 88,089 psi
zinc = 907 ppm
phos = 829 ppm
moly = 56 ppm

33. 20W50 LAT Synthetic Racing Oil, API SM = 87,930 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

34. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil synthetic = 86,270 psi
zinc = 1247 ppm
phos = 1137 ppm
moly = 24 ppm

35. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic = 86,034 psi
I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

36. 15W40 RED LINE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4/CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CF/CH-4/CF-4/SM/SL/SH/EO-O = 85,663 psi
zinc = 1615 ppm
phos = 1551 ppm
moly = 173 ppm

37. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN synthetic = 84,009 psi
zinc = 942 ppm
phos = 817 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

38. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN synthetic = 83,487 psi
zinc = 588 ppm
phos = 697 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

39. 20W50 Kendall GT-1 High Performance with liquid titanium, API SN conventional = 83,365 psi
zinc = 991 ppm
phos = 1253 ppm
moly = 57 ppm
titanium = 84 ppm

40. 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN synthetic = 83,263 psi
zinc = 890 ppm
phos = 819 ppm
moly = 104 ppm

41. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN synthetic = 82,867 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

42. 5W30 LAT Synthetic Racing Oil, API SM = 81,800 psi
zinc = 1784 ppm
phos = 1539 ppm
moly = 598 ppm


43. 15W40 ROYAL PURPLE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4 /SM, CI-4 PLUS, CH-4, CI-4 = 76,997 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

44. 5W30 Lucas API SM synthetic = 76,584 psi
zinc = 1134 ppm
phos = 666 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

45. 5W30 GM's AC Delco dexos 1 API SN semi-synthetic = 76,501 psi
zinc = 878 ppm
phos = 758 ppm
moly = 72 ppm

46. 5W50 Castrol Edge with Syntec API SN, synthetic, formerly Castrol Syntec, black bottle = 75,409 psi
zinc = 1252 ppm
phos = 1197 ppm
moly = 71 ppm


47. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
moly = 204 ppm

48. 5W40 MOBIL 1 TURBO DIESEL TRUCK synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4 and ACEA E7 = 74,312 psi
zinc = 1211 ppm
phos = 1168 ppm
moly = 2 ppm

49. 15W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil, conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM, = 73,520 psi
zinc = 1519 ppm
phos = 1139 ppm
moly = 80 ppm

50. 15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi
zinc = 1297 ppm
phos = 1944 ppm
moly = 46 ppm

51. 15W40 Farm Rated Heavy Duty Performance Diesel Oil conventional CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF/SL, SJ = 73,176 psi
zinc = 1325ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
moly = 2 ppm

52. 15W40 SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM = 72,022 psi
zinc = 1454 ppm
phos = 1062 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

53. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil semi-synthetic = 72,003 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

54. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 semi-synthetic = 71,377 psi
zinc = 1621 ppm
phos = 1437 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

55. 15W40 “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4,CG-4,CF-4,CF,SL, SJ, SH = 71,214 psi
zinc = 1171 ppm
phos = 1186 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

56. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 semi-synthetic = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

57. 15W40 VALVOLINE PREMIUM BLUE HEAVY DUTY DIESEL Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SM = 70,869 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

58. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN synthetic = 70,235 psi
zinc = 1,133 ppm
phos = 1,168 ppm
moly = 83 ppm

59. 5W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, SL, SM = 69,631 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

60. 30wt Edelbrock Break-In Oil conventional = 69,160 psi
zinc = 1545 ppm
phos = 1465 ppm
moly = 4 ppm

61. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN synthetic = 68,782 psi
zinc = 796 ppm
phos = 830 ppm
moly = 75 ppm

62. 10W40 Edelbrock synthetic = 68,603 psi
zinc = 1193 ppm
phos = 1146 ppm
moly = 121 ppm
This oil is manufactured for Edelbrock by Torco.


63. 5W40 SHELL ROTELLA T6 Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, SM, SL = 67,804 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

64. 15W40 LUCAS MAGNUM Diesel Oil, conventional, API CI-4,CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SL = 66,476 psi
zinc = 1441 ppm
phos = 1234 ppm
moly = 76 ppm

65. 15W40 CASTROL GTX DIESEL Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4/SN = 66,323 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

66. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) synthetic = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
moly = 189 ppm

67. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil, API SJ conventional = 65,553 psi
zinc = 1154 ppm
phos = 1075 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

68. 5W30 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 64,175 psi
zinc = 1765 ppm
phos = 2468 ppm
moly = 339 ppm

69. “ZDDPlus” added to Royal Purple 20W50, API SN, synthetic = 63,595 psi
zinc = 2436 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2053 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
moly = 2 ppm (up 2 ppm)

The psi value here is 24% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Oil companies always say to NEVER add anything to their oils, because adding anything will upset the carefully balanced additive package, and ruin the oil’s chemical composition. And that is precisely what we see here. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.

70. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = 1170 ppm
phos = 1039 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

71. 10W30 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Hi-Performance Oil, conventional = 62,538 psi
zinc = 2116 ppm
phos = 1855 ppm
moly = 871 ppm

72. 0W20 Klotz Estorlin Racing Oil, API SL synthetic = 60,941 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

73. 10W30 Comp Cams Muscle Car & Street Rod Oil, synthetic blend = 60,413 psi
zinc = 1673 ppm
phos = 1114 ppm
moly = 67 ppm


74. 10W40 Torco TR-1 Racing Oil with MPZ conventional = 59,905 psi
zinc = 1456 ppm
phos = 1150 ppm
moly = 227 ppm

75. 10W40 Edelbrock conventional = 59,120 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil is manufactured for Edelbrock by Torco.


76. 0W20 LAT Synthetic Racing Oil, API SM = 57,228 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD


77. “ZDDPlus” added to O’Reilly (house brand) 5W30, API SN, conventional = 56,728 psi
zinc = 2711 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2172 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
moly = 2 ppm (up 2 ppm)

The psi value here is a whopping 38% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.


78. “ZDDPlus” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 56,243 psi
zinc = 2955 ppm (up 1848 ppm)
phos = 2114 ppm (up 1356 ppm)
moly = 76 ppm (up 2 ppm)

The psi value here is 12% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the ZDDPlus was added to it. Adding ZDDPlus SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.

79. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Royal Purple 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 54,044 psi
zinc = 1515 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1334 ppm (up 517 ppm)
moly = 15 ppm (up 15 ppm)

The psi value here is a whopping 36% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.

80. 10W30 Comp Cams Break-In Oil conventional = 51,749 psi
zinc = 3004 ppm
phos = 2613 ppm
moly = 180 ppm

81. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Lucas 5W30, API SN, conventional = 51,545 psi
zinc = 1565 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1277 ppm (up 517 ppm)
moly = 15 ppm (up 15 ppm)

The psi value here is a “breath taking” 44% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.

82. “Edelbrock Zinc Additive” added to Motorcraft 5W30, API SN, synthetic = 50,202 psi
zinc = 1680 ppm (up 573 ppm)
phos = 1275 ppm (up 517 ppm)
moly = 89 ppm (up 15 ppm)

The psi value here is 22% LOWER than this oil had BEFORE the Edelbrock Zinc Additive was added to it. Adding Edelbrock Zinc Additive SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED this oil’s wear prevention capability. Just the opposite of what was promised. Buyer beware.

83. 30wt Lucas Break-In Oil conventional = 49,455 psi
zinc = 4483 ppm
phos = 3660 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

______________________________________________________

as you can see. many oils do not contain the same levels of additives. look out for that when buying the next oil you need. may it be straight weight or multi! Info provided by www chevelles com
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The JBug

[[email protected]]

[michaeljsmyth]

[W1K1]

[michaeljsmyth]

I have never seen one, i guess thats because we dont have a winter really. never heard of one in a VW either. must have been a later thing not ype 1 thats for sure. i actually cannot find a single think on a block heater for an ACVW.... and thats a block heater, not an oil heater. many things have block heaters, and deisels use glowplugs, different things for way different vehicles and motors... but again your getting way off point..... IF you NEED multiweight and live in a place with terrible weather go for it...
but bugs dont use oil heaters. they used straight weight oil in the winter and they worked fine. they used the correct wieght for thier condition of driving and climate.
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The JBug

[[email protected]]

You are a very ignorant guy that pretends to know lots.

[michaeljsmyth]

Cool, resort to insults when you dont have a rebuttal.
Im not an expert on winter time VW's and i dont have to be, just because you fabricate another instance were your multiweight is the true and only chioce.

I dont need an oil heater nor do i need multiweight oil because of my climate.

saying everyone should use multiweight and saying straight weight oil is bad mmkay now thats ignorant.
_________________
The JBug

[michaeljsmyth]

I have never seen one, i guess thats because we dont have a winter really. never heard of one in a VW either. must have been a later thing not ype 1 thats for sure. i actually cannot find a single think on a block heater for an ACVW.... and thats a block heater, not an oil heater. many things have block heaters, and deisels use glowplugs, different things for way different vehicles and motors... but again your getting way off point..... IF you NEED multiweight and live in a place with terrible weather go for it...
but bugs dont use oil heaters. they used straight weight oil in the winter and they worked fine. they used the correct wieght for thier condition of driving and climate.
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The JBug

[FreeBug]

Customer brought in a car to do the import paperwork, from Finland, It had a mini sump with a heater element, screwewed on to the stock drainplate studs. Old-style 220 volt house plug. It was made in the 60's.

[[email protected]]

Rebuttal? "Ignorant" is not an insult, it's a descriptive term to describe a guy that lives in a place where there is no Winter (and always has perhaps?), but are professing to know that there is no such thing as cold weather equipment?

Did you know chrome valve covers were std equipment on VWs in super cold environments?

The fact that these items exist, and have for well over 50 years, shows you are clueless. The fact that you keep pretending to know what you are talking about after evidence has shown up that you don't have a clue, says something further.

The fact that heating elements exist is proof that there is something to thinning the viscosity down in cold weather, which is the same thing that multi grade oils do.

I'm not telling you what oil to use, you can use whatever you want.

Thirsty Horses.

[michaeljsmyth]

OK so i was wrong about the oil heater but this isnt a debate on oil heaters no one uses them anywere near me. you guys are forgetting that everyone has different need,. and the fact that this is about what type of oil YOU should use on your own engine.

Now you calling me ignorant is offensive and calling me clueless is also offensive and uncalled for. Just the fact that you have to so defend your comments about multiweight and put others peoples opinions down just because you use something else, get over yourself.
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The JBug

[[email protected]]

First off, "ignorant" doesn't mean stupid. It means you don't know. The mistake is you pretending to.

Secondly, why would an oil heater be used? Once you answer that, maybe the light bulb will go on as to the advantage of a multigrade oil.

Thirdly, you being "offended" is your problem, because it really has nothing to do with us. It's how you are taking comments toward you. If you hold me in any regard at all, why would you care at ALL what I think?

I have noticed over the last 20+ years on the Internet that tempers start flaring from around now to early January. It happens every year. People are a lot more chill in June than now, when all sorts of flare ups happen. Samba is no exception.

I have said before that if you think straight weight is right, that's your choice. Go for it.

[Juanito84]

VW published the reasons why they switched to multi-grade oils in the later Bentley manuals.

If single grades are so great, then name a car manufacturer that recomends it currently in one of their cars. And don't start with those air-cooled vs water-cooled myths.

Thick oil lubricates, but cannot pump. Sure, main bearings might be getting some lubrication where you still have 100psi forcing the cold oil into them But how much of that oil is getting into the rod bearings which warm up quicker and lose oil faster than the mains? Or what about oil getting up into the heads? If you find someone with a rod bearing failure or a worn valve train and ask him is he uses single-grade oil, the chances are yes.

And for those who never lived in cold country, yes we do heat our engines with a block heater. There are several kinds, some factory installed others not, but they all do the same thing. 0W-xx at -30°F only pumps as well as straight 30 does at 32°F. When it gets colder than that you need a block heater, period. (At least untill the day they come out with an oil thinner than 0W.)
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If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine?