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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1748 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:33 am Post subject: Heater repair |
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How difficult is it to get the gas heater working? _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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vonkr Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2007 Posts: 54 Location: The Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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what's wrong with it? the question is a little bit to general...
It could be easy if you know what's wrong and you only have to replace a part, it could be difficult if you don't know what's wrong... |
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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1748 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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I am not sure yet, the car I may get has a non working heater. I am not sure if it is from just not being used or what ...so I guess my question really is are they easy to work on or does it take a lot of work just to access it. Can the parts still be located or are there adequate substitutions?
Thanks _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 4980 Location: Des moines Iowa
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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Most of what few parts go bad can be gotten. Finding a fuel pump iss tricky but there iss a work around using a facet pump.
Unless the system has gotten certain parts wet, or unless it has been abused by a PO trying to make it work without knowledge....usually a broken wire, bad fuel pump or bad glow plug is the extent of issues.
It is worthwhile on any of these systems to remove teh unit for inspection, cleaning, checking for rust throughs and its easier to remove, reseal the turbo blower.
Its not hard to do. After removing the exhaust pipe and disconnecting the wires...mark them and have the battery disconnected....there are four 10mm nuts and it drops right out.
Typically it needs to have the covers removed from the blower and have both sets of points cleaned, filed and gapped to .016". One runs the fuel pump, one runs the coil.
Clean all connectors. I have gotten rid of the rubber fuel line and replaced it with a section of metal brake line and a steel union at the top nipple. I connect to the pump with a short length of rubber line.
Usuually having a bad dash switch or a bad relay is rare.
Do these basics and then we can help you troubleshoot by what it is doing and is not doing. Ray |
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Lahti411 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2005 Posts: 120 Location: Lahti, Finland
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Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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There are couple of things that make the maintenance bit more tedious though...
If nobody has touched the heater you are lucky as then you'll have the chance to mark the wiring and reattach it exactly as it was intended. Eberspächer made several changes to the wiring during the production and atleast i haven't managed to find all the schematics that would show all of them. And although the wiring loom has been made into the cars main wiring loom it's not drawn into the cars schematics. So if you are going to remove the wiring take lots of pictures and mark the wires.
Other irritating thing is that removing the heater is not quite as straight forward as mentioned above... It's not really hard job but you actually have to remove the left side spring and shock absorber to get the heater out if the transmission is still in the car. _________________ My cars: 1972 VW 411 Variant; 1973 VW 412 4d sedan; 1976 Saab 99 Combi Coupé |
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vonkr Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2007 Posts: 54 Location: The Netherlands
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:44 am Post subject: |
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I could also ask an other question: do you live in a cold country and are you gonna use the heater frequently?
Here in holland, most of the type4's are standing in garages and are only driven in good weather conditions. For the only time you need some heat, you can also use the "normal" heater (allthought it works bad).
like most are replying: try to find out what's wrong, most parts are available (new or used). |
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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1748 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 5:15 am Post subject: |
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Here in holland, most of the type4's are standing in garages and are only driven in good weather conditions. For the only time you need some heat, you can also use the "normal" heater (allthought it works bad).
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I will have to use the heater. It gets down to -17 celcius here in the winter. My vanagon can handle it with its heater boxes (I insulated the paper air tube), but from what I can tell the 412 boxes are not as good and i do not know of any tricks to make them work better. _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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Lahti411 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2005 Posts: 120 Location: Lahti, Finland
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:50 am Post subject: |
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.. _________________ My cars: 1972 VW 411 Variant; 1973 VW 412 4d sedan; 1976 Saab 99 Combi Coupé
Last edited by Lahti411 on Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:51 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Lahti411 Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2005 Posts: 120 Location: Lahti, Finland
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:51 am Post subject: |
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I'd try to repair the heater first. But if it seems impossible to figure out whats wrong with it and you cannot get it to work after you have done the basic maintenance, you can convert to bay window bus heat exchangers. They'll give you more heated air and it's a bolt-on job. _________________ My cars: 1972 VW 411 Variant; 1973 VW 412 4d sedan; 1976 Saab 99 Combi Coupé |
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vonkr Samba Member
Joined: December 11, 2007 Posts: 54 Location: The Netherlands
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:46 am Post subject: |
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the problem with the type4 regular heaters is that the hot air goes through the gasheater and looses heat there. Because in a beetle, if everything works fine, than you can get it as hot as in a sauna
what you can do is remove the gasheater and connect the regular heater direct to the warming tubes.
But try to fix it first, I' ve got a spare one in the garage. Don't know if it works, but probably some parts can work. Don't need money for it, only shipping costs. |
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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1748 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks vonkr, I will keep that in mind.Since I will be hauling the twins around in it the heater is important. It will not be until August when I probably get a chance to tear it apart and look at it if it is not an easy fix. _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 4980 Location: Des moines Iowa
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Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Lahti411 wrote: |
There are couple of things that make the maintenance bit more tedious though...
If nobody has touched the heater you are lucky as then you'll have the chance to mark the wiring and reattach it exactly as it was intended. Eberspächer made several changes to the wiring during the production and atleast i haven't managed to find all the schematics that would show all of them. And although the wiring loom has been made into the cars main wiring loom it's not drawn into the cars schematics. So if you are going to remove the wiring take lots of pictures and mark the wires.
Other irritating thing is that removing the heater is not quite as straight forward as mentioned above... It's not really hard job but you actually have to remove the left side spring and shock absorber to get the heater out if the transmission is still in the car. |
Thanks for the reminder. You will not have to take the spring and damper loose if you remove the turbo blower. On the 4 speed you can get it out without removing the shock and spring...but you need to take the outer rear hanger bar mount loose and the left hand bolt that holds the engine and tranny to the hanger bushings so that the engine can drop a little on the left side......and take the inner left CV joint loose and pull it rearward.
You cannot do it on this on the right because the starter and clutch line are in the way.
Sorry for the incomplete info. After the reminder I had to dig back through my notes. Ray |
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Bill K. Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2004 Posts: 71 Location: Woodinville, Wa
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Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:01 am Post subject: Re: Heater repair |
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| reluctantartist wrote: |
| How difficult is it to get the gas heater working? |
When I bought my car, it didn't work at first either.
First problem - no power. Pump didn't go "click-click-click...". The contacts on the inline fuses were crusty. Cleaning fuse holder fixed that, but replacing with ATC type is recommended.
Second - no glow. Most heaters that don't work have a bad glow plug. Hard to find, but out there. Contact Samba member pjmacua - see this topic and www.181spirit.com for NOS BERU GZE 13 glow plugs (411963319).
So, pretty simple, but took days to figure out.
Use the manual and start at the beginning:
12 Mb pdf download - http://thing.itiot.dk/pdf/Heater-BA4.pdf
On-line at type4.org - http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/index.html
Even in a mild-climate, when they work, you get awesome heat and defrost that makes you believe you really DO have a "rich mans Volkswagen". |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 4980 Location: Des moines Iowa
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Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:47 am Post subject: |
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I would like to add to what Bill noted:
If after troubleshooting you still do not have proper operation of some of the major components like blower, fuel pump or ignition....do not despair. Agreat amount of quirky problems can be caused by fiddling by previous owners. Even when the system appears pristine....there are things not in teh manual to check. Example is the connection tabs on the high limit temp switch. If a PO has removed the heater and sloppily reinstalled the switch, it can easily bend the connector tabs causing a grounding situtaion that repeatedly blows the 30 amp inline fuse (olive green wires).
Also its not uncommon to find one or more power wires either clipped off or re-arranged in the main plug of the double relay. There are several ways to make this system run and work around heh failsafes....and one or two of them are dangerous....so check your wiring to the diagram carefully.
Also glow plug wires revresed is a common issue. The single pole switch on teh left hand heater lever tha tstarts the auxiliary blower being filthy or disconnected is a common one as well.
Start with teh book and make sure everything is exact and we can go from there. Ray |
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