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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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There is a thread in the vanagon forum here by a guy doing a turbo aba. He mentions using a TDI outlet which looks similar. I think the engine and trans will still need to be slid back for clearance, but this piece at least is off the shelf so its cheap and replaceable on the road. _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5688 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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Mr. Unpopular wrote: |
There is a thread in the vanagon forum here by a guy doing a turbo aba. He mentions using a TDI outlet which looks similar. I think the engine and trans will still need to be slid back for clearance, but this piece at least is off the shelf so its cheap and replaceable on the road. |
You know what? You're right! The coolant flange on my TDI is shaped similarly to this.
However, I've read people's conversion threads where they say that this flange (and the TDI Vacuum pump) still stick out enough to interfere with the fuel tank. _________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, I'm still going to have to shift the transmission back some I think, but I was anticipating that all along. This saves me from the big sweeping bend of the coolant hose though, so still a few inches. _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5688 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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I wonder if this flange combined with my Mexican bellhousing would keep my water line from contacting teh fuel tank?
I used an old Rabbit aluminum flange and cut the end of the coolant hose as short as possible to bring the turn as close as possible to the motor.
Even with the slightly shorter hose, and longer bellhousing, I had to cut away the fire wall in that area because it would have been in the way. It is still very tight.
But maybe with the flat flange it would work. Something to look at next time the engine needs to come out/down. _________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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I'll try to remember to take some measurements when it gets here. It's scheduled to arrive next Tuesday.
I can't imagine changing that radiator hose is particularly pleasant with your setup. I'm trying to keep this thing as simple to perform maintenance on as possible, and use as few custom parts as possible, as I plan to drive this thing to the Grand Canyon one day. _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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Dynamite_Goat Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 135 Location: Julian, CA
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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Mr. Unpopular wrote: |
Yeah, I'm still going to have to shift the transmission back some I think, but I was anticipating that all along. This saves me from the big sweeping bend of the coolant hose though, so still a few inches. |
I did this on my Ecotec. I moved the transmission back 2" to clear the firewall. It requires quite a few details - spacer for the front trans mount, modifications to the frame mount, shift rod extension, clutch cable extension and spacers on the cv joints to make up the difference. Lots of work but makes for a nice, clean swap without hacking up the firewall or fuel tank. |
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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I forget and didn't see obvious reference in the earlier posts .. are you using the crossflow ABA head or swapping to an earlier counterflow head?
Grand Canyon? Maybe we should plan a Watercooled Bay meet-and-greet gathering there next year or something .. springtime before it gets too hot or autumn after it cools down. Just 'cuz I have the spare HP for A/C doesn't mean I've got A/C .. yet. |
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Sloride Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2002 Posts: 926
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:22 am Post subject: |
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I'm keeping the ABA head because I wanted a stock configuration for tuning and parts chasing. Unfortunately, the ABA head doesn't have the option of the side water outlet like the 1.8 head does.
Tristessa, Grand Canyon won't happen next year, I'll be in RN school full time, but it's something I definitely want to happen when my daughter is old enough to appreciate, and young enough to where she still wants to hang out with us
And yes, I'm keeping all of the A/C related wiring and hardware for the future. On the open road, windows down is nice, but in traffic, especially in humid Florida, it gets pretty unbearable. I also have my daughter to think about in the back of the bus, but I've got an idea for a trick up my sleeve to help with that. _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5688 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:04 am Post subject: |
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Sloride wrote: |
In my 72 with the 1.8 bottom end and 1.8 digi head I didn't have to modify the firewall at all. I simply blocked off the outlet on the back of the head. I'm pretty sure as well that with the 2.0 intake you will need to lower the motor - which I believe you have mentioned. The 1.8 head on the 2.0 bottom end is tried and true in the vanagon forum.
Craig |
Have you done anything for a heater?
The original outlet you blocked off goes to the heater, is there a different source for heater hot water that may be used if this is blocked off? _________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:17 am Post subject: |
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Mr. Unpopular wrote: |
Tristessa, Grand Canyon won't happen next year, I'll be in RN school full time |
That's where the "or something" part kicks in -- maybe if we started planning now for something over Spring Break 2016, most people could manage to make it happen. |
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:22 am Post subject: |
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vwwestyman wrote: |
The original outlet you blocked off goes to the heater, is there a different source for heater hot water that may be used if this is blocked off? |
I blocked that outlet as well. Some flanges on the side of the head (between 3/4) have a nipple on the underside to feed the factory oil "cooler"; I deleted the factory "cooler" and run coolant to my heaters from there. And I added a plate-style cooler with a thermostatic sandwich plate to keep temps under control... |
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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Why did you delete the factory cooler? Is it because its not effective being cooled by the coolant? _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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The factory oil cooler transfers heat from the engine oil to the coolant, and they're known to fail internally and put coolant into the oil and oil into the coolant .. which simulates the symptoms of a blown head gasket pretty well. They're not exactly a "cooler" in the traditional sense anyway, it's more to facilitate faster warm-ups than to keep oil temps under control.
Plus I already had a 48-plate cooler and a thermostatic Wahler sandiwch adapter on the shelf .. and I needed the nipple for my heater. |
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chazz79 Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2008 Posts: 2268 Location: ohio
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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http://www.vanistan.com/Vanistan/oil_cooler_kits.html
All conversions face this problem. We control the water temp but really don't want to know what's going on with the oil temp. I can assure you it's outpacing water temp no matter how well thought out we think the conversion is.
If you think about it we're sending the water elsewhere to cool it down but the oil just sits there baking. I changed mine every 1000 miles because of that. I hope to put a cooler set up together or buy the Vanistan stuff with my new deal. _________________ One day as a lion, or a lifetime as lamb
The green monster in bits and peices: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=332556&highlight=green+monster |
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Sloride Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2002 Posts: 926
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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We had a mini tech day at my shop today. 2 friends brought their bugs over and we took turns doing things to them. I was able to get some work done on the project too.
I got the rest of the cruise control stuff from the jetta, added that to the pile for future use.
I then took advantage of a BOGO promotion on Super Clean to de-gunk the engine and harness.
Tomorrow I'll start trimming the engine harness of the fat to get it ready for install into the bus. My A3 Bentley (hardcover ) will help with this. I plan to identify plugs I don't need (wipers, horn, front lighting, etc), I'll cut those plugs off. Once I have all of those cut off, I'll un-wrap the harness to remove the wiring that's not needed, then re-wrap it in fresh loom. _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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Sloride Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2002 Posts: 926
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tristessa Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2004 Posts: 3992 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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Sloride wrote: |
Don't forget to post pictures. You know we all like the photos. |
I believe the rule is "pics or it didn't happen"... |
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Mr. Unpopular Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2005 Posts: 3715 Location: Tampa Florida
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Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Today's update: Wiring sucks.
This wiring harness is much harder to work through than the Ecotec. Some of it has to do with the "unique" way Germans do things in auto electronics (having a switch in the radiator to turn the fans on instead of letting the ECM do it for instance) but alot of the complication has to do with the available wiring diagrams in the Bentley. They are small, suffer from information overload, and are missing some things that Alldata provides with the GM's (like connector views for each component, along with wire info, making it easy to identify where you are at in the harness, and where the wires go).
Either way, I'm working through it, slowly but surely. I did pull all of the cooling fan wiring from the harness because I'm going to do it differently than VW does. I want to measure coolant temps at the engine, but turn the fan on in the front of the bus, so I'm going to use a generic fan turn on switch in my plumbing, then use that to trigger a relay up front for the fan. I'll also put a "manual" switch on the dash somewhere as an override in case the relay fails or some other unforeseen scenario.
It doesn't look like I'm going to make the labor day camping trip deadline I self imposed, but that's fine. My real deadline is the kick-off of show season in November, so trying to get done for September has put me ahead of my real deadline.
I'll also have more time to devote to the swap now. My schedule changed at work (for the MUCH better). I work 12 hour shifts now, so I have more days off, including a 3 day weekend every other weekend, and a minimum of 2 days in a row off (working overnight and only having 1 day off is a waste because I end up sleeping the whole time). _________________ "In any racing engine, the nearer you are to it disintegrating, the better it's performance will be"
-Keith Duckworth, creator of the Ford/Cosworth DFV |
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