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My New 68 Fastback
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 5:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Timing? Reply with quote

supersuk wrote:
Ok, I feel like a real dufus...I've searched around the forums looking for a how-to or something along those lines to set timing. This is my first type 3, but I have had many type 1's in the past and those are easy to set timing. How do you do it for these pancake motors? I see a hole in the fan shroud and can see the pulley, but I haven't seen any type of markings to indicate what degree i'm at. I connected it to the number 1 cylinder and can't see anything! I really hope this is the cause of my "no power"... Also, i'm assuming you have to line up the timing mark with the little arm protruding from the block?

Boy...I feel really dumb.


There should be 4 marks on the big pulley. The 1st is TDC or ")" degrees, the next ro the right is 7.5*, then 10*, then finally 12*. The problem is you have an 009, and for that, you set it at 28* at 3000rpms, and there's no mark for 28*. You can make your own, it'll be 50mm (about 2 inches)to the right of TDC. This mark can be used for a non-adjustable timing light. IF you have an adjustable timing light, then you just need the TDC line whited out so you can see it. I hope this helps.
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I got it. I checked the static timing of the 009 and it was about 20-30* retarded...I was reading on this page:

http://www.vw-resource.com/tune-up.html#static

on how to set the static timing for the 009 and it was way off. I don't have a tach right now so I can't set the timing for 28* at 3000 rpm. I haven't touched anything yet until I get a tach.

Does anyone know if the static timing procedure will get me in the ball park of the 28* advance at 3000 rpm?
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I hope someone can help me...Does this look correct? This is as-is how I bought it.

First picture shows the spark plug wire orientation on the distributor cap.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Second picture shows the 7.5* mark on the pulley and the notch in the distributor in relation to the rotor, which is about 20* off.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

From what I read, the notch in the 009 distributor should be in the 7 position at TDC for cyl 1. BTW, I found an EMPI electronic ignitor in there.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't like that fuel hose/filter rubbing on the hex bar linkage. Run it underneath the hex bar. Russ Wolfe R.I.P. told us to Always put the fuel filter down next to the transmission to help prevent engine fires!
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it! I'll change that.

Any advice on the distributor issues?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't even worry about the notch in the distributor if it starts/runs good as is!
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
I don't even worry about the notch in the distributor if it starts/runs good as is!


Yer killin' me here... Laughing
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Twisted Evil
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get one of those Tach-Dwell meters from Walmart. That'll help set your timing on the 009.
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, got a cheap Equus tach from Orielly's last night. This is my plan for today. I'll change the oil and adjust the valves. While doing that i'll verify that cyl one is at TDC and set the 009 distributer at the recommended 7.5* before TDC. After I find that I will arrange the spark plug wires to their appropriate positions. Then using the tach, timing light, and the newly made mark in the pulley I'll set the 28* timing. Hopefully this will cure the "no power".

Thanks for the awesome tips. I'll post back later today or tomorrow.
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, got the oil changed, valves adjusted and found out that the distributor is about 180* off. The TDC for cylinder 1 is in the position where cylinder 3 would normally be. Is this because the distributor gear is installed about 180* off? I guess it wouldn't matter since I have a 009 distributor...

However, the funny thing is that the spark plug wire for cylinder 4 is where the TDC for cylinder 1 is. This is the only way it will start up. Am I missing something here? Maybe the empi electronic point system was installed incorrectly? I'm a little baffled here...Any help?
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got home today and look what I found at my door step:

Weber IDF style 45mm throttle bodies with fuel injector plugs in the body

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Wilwood 4 piston calipers

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Still waiting on a lot more parts...
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I really am a dufus. Found out the distributor drive gear in type 3's are set almost 180* off from the type 1 motors, which I based everything on. This explains why the 009 is in the wrong position. I also found out that the empi electronic point system magnetic plate thingie was very loose and had a lot of play. Changed it to points and condensor, set the timing and she runs great!

One shitty thing though, I was changing the spark plugs and the one on cylinder two fell into the cylinder tin. While trying to retrieve it, somehow it lodged itself into the air inlet area from the fan shroud and I can't remove it. Is it easy to remove the cylinder tin with the engine still mounted to the car?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supersuk wrote:

One shitty thing though, I was changing the spark plugs and the one on cylinder two fell into the cylinder tin. While trying to retrieve it, somehow it lodged itself into the air inlet area from the fan shroud and I can't remove it. Is it easy to remove the cylinder tin with the engine still mounted to the car?


You'll have to pull the carb and intake manifold on that side (put some towels or something in the ports on the head before doing anything else after removing them). Then it's just a matter of removing the 7 screws that hold the tin in place.
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, that will be next on the list. Thanks for the tip BobNotch!
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supaninja
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just put my ITB's on my notch, mmmmm they sound pissed off! What are you using for management? I'm running 38mm TBs and they are more then enough for my 2L, hopefully you decent drivability. I ran mine on a speed density tune for a couple of days, got it to work but it wasn't the greatest so now i'm on a Alpha-N tune (rpm vs throttle position). Still sorting it but it will work just fine.
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using a Megasquirt 2 for the ECU. It just arrived and I'll start putting that together soon. The innovate wideband came in not to long ago too.

This system probably won't be going into the car until the car goes to the body shop. I want to enjoy it for a while before I do all that. Once I have the body at the body shop, I'll have the pan at home. At that time i'll have the pan powder coated, clean up the tranny and then work on the FI system for the motor. I'm going to start with fuel first since I have to figure out a way to install a 36-1 wheel on the fan pulley or somewhere else. I'll come up with something...

I'm thinking the dual 45mm throttle bodies should be ok since I did have 44mm webers on a 1776 engine in my bug before. That thing ran awesome. Hopefully it'll work out.

I was following your build and it looks awesome! Wish I could have things fabricated like yours, but I lack the skills nor have the proper tools. For now i'll just have to use ready made components and match them to fit.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

44 IDF's have 32 to 36mm, or there abouts, venturi's and all that crap in the middle. My 38's probably flow as much air as a set of IDA's, I know they sound like them when I'm on it. Twisted Evil

Eric Anderson did an awesome job on making the mani's for my setup, all I did was to come up with the ideas (actually it was Soul who planted the sead about using the end castings for mani's).

If you get stuck on the FI, holla and I'll help.

Ninja edit number 2, hehe, I got a complete section for the rear hanger on my parts notch if you still need it.
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Last edited by supaninja on Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, if they flow that much then I'm in for a tuning nightmare...well the only way I'll find out is after I install em!

Btw, thanks for the offer to help tune! This is my second Megasquirt install, but I'm pretty rusty since it was installed a while ago in my scca prepped turbo Miata. That thing was fun!

You know what I wanna do? Turn my fastback into a notch! Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this will be fun too, your going to need to use a Alpha-N tune. I'm guessing your going to have even less vacuum then i have to work with.
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