My New 68 Fastback

supersuk · Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:38 pm Post subject:

Dang, I was suspecting that the bug ones fit! Well, too late now since I ordered mine from ISP west.
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ataraxia · Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:42 pm Post subject:

supersuk · Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 2:40 pm Post subject:

supersuk · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 11:08 am Post subject:

Anyone ever had to straighten some coiled brake lines or coiled aluminum tube for fuel lines? Didn't wanna pay the crazy $199.99 price the the tube straightener that Eastwood sells? Well, make your own!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

List of parts that I used:

1. LV20/8 8x30x14mm Sealed Ball Track Roller Guide Vgroove Bearing
2. 5 M10 x 50mm Bolts
3. 5 M10 Nuts
4. 15 M10 Washers
5. 2 M8 x 80mm or 90mm Bolts - forget which length
6. 2 M8 Nuts
7. 6 M8 Washers
8. Two Springs that fit over the M8 Bolts
9. 2 8" lengths of 1" x 1" steel tube

Just drilled out a total of 7 holes for the M8 and M10 bolts. Welded on the M8 nuts and assembled. Just look at the pics and its self explanatory. Works great and makes the tube fairly straight. One thing that I would like to change is the Vgroove bearing. I would like to find something with a U profile so that it doesn't mark up the aluminum tube. If using steel tube, it won't mark it up. Overall, spent about $30 to make this since I had a lot of the parts at home already. Yes, the alum tube in the pic still looks a little bent, but that is because you have to roll it through the straightener at 90 degree increments to straighten it about the axis of the tube. I had only did it once to check it.
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supersuk · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 12:06 pm Post subject:

Wiring sucks...Thats all i've been up to for the past couple days. While installing the turn signal switch and emergency flasher relay, they both decided to break. The turn signal switch was a $40 china unit, which split apart because of a tab the broke. I ordered a new NOS piece to replace it. The emergency flasher relay was the original one that came with the car. One of the tabs snapped so I bought a replacement one from a local VW dealer here. I could fix the original one, but decided that since its so old, I should just replace it. I finished wiring up the air ride system and the megasquirt ECU. All i'm waiting for now is the turn signal switch so that I can finish all the wiring up.

The bird nest of wires under the dash.

Accuair Air Ride all wired up. The wiring will be all tidy when I'm ready to button it up.

Megasquirt ECU, Innovate wideband, and relay board for ECU.

Battery that came with the car. Still works great!

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Bobnotch · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:35 pm Post subject:

supersuk · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:07 am Post subject:

Thanks Bob. If only I could do that with the birds nest under the dash. Its near impossible to organize it.

Does anyone happen to know off hand what gauge thickness the sheet metal on the fenders are. I need to make a couple patch sections for my front fenders and forgot to get the thickness of the metal before I came to work. I'm going to purchase some steel during my lunch break. Here are some pics of the front fenders after wet blasting with crushed glass media.

Came out pretty good. The undercoating is impossible to remove though...

This is the worst of the rust on the driver side fender. Previous owner filled it in with bondo.

Small rust pit that will be welded up.

Previous front end damage that was just drilled out to provide an anchor for the bondo. Bondo was about 1/4" thick.

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eyetzr · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:11 am Post subject:

I am not sure what VW did back in the day. 22 or 24 gauge should work for your patches. I have some 18 gauge that I was using on floors, strong but not bending friendly.

supersuk · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:35 am Post subject:

Hmmm, I had thought it was 20ga or 19ga for the sheetmetal. I guess I'll use some 20ga. That 22ga or 24ga seems way too thin and bouncy...
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supersuk · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 4:04 pm Post subject:

So I had a friend measure my fender at home and it measured out to be a little thicker than 22ga. So i'm assuming that the sheetmetal is actually 21ga which no one stocks here. I just purchased some 22ga that was readily available at home depot. I think the last time I patched up the rockers, I used 20ga sheet metal. I had thought the thin stuff was the 22ga, but guess I was thinking of the wrong size...the 22ga looks close enough as eyetzr said.
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supersuk · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:01 am Post subject:

Started doing some of the rust repair last night on the drivers fender. Wasn't so bad and I had just enough time to cut out the rusted portions, weld in new patches, and slather on some Metal2Metal to protect the welds from moisture. The passenger side is going to be a lot harder. I have to replace that inner curved portion and will have to shape some metal to fit. I really wish I had a bean bag and some mallets so I can make some difficult shapes to patch in. I'll have to go the cut and weld to make the curve method.

Rust Cut Out

First patch fitted and waiting to be welded in. Sorry but don't have pics of the welded part.

Second patch fitted and welded in. I don't have pics of the Metal2Metal portion, but its the same look as filler.

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Mike Fisher · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:22 am Post subject:

You can make your own sand bag & use a ball peen hammer for curves. It is looking Sweet for being built in a carport! Wink

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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
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'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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eyetzr · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:41 am Post subject:

If you want the cheap way, use a wood block on its end. The end grain of wood is softer than the side grain

supersuk · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 1:43 pm Post subject:

Hmmm, Maybe I should attempt to make those tonight. I have a ball peen and I have a lot of sand. Just need to make a leather pouch for the sand. hahaha

Mike - I must say that it is turning out pretty well. Usually I don't get too much dust and stuff in my paint jobs, but on the front fenders I have a billion lint that got trapped in the epoxy. I was wiping it down with grease and wax remover after being wet blasted and the tooth of the metal started to shred the cloth that I was using to wipe it down. I thought, ok I can prolly just use air to blast all that away....wrong! Tried using a tack rag and that made it worse. By that time it was getting late so I said F-it! I gotta protect the metal cause I know a storm is coming. So I just sprayed it. I'm gonna do a light sand over the epoxy to get rid of all the trapped lint. respray the epoxy and start doing some light filler work to level the surface off. I still have some areas where I need to use a shrinking disk. PO beat the shit out of one end of the passenger fender. I wish I lived on the mainland so I can pick up better ones to work with....

eyetzr - Is there a particular wood I should be using? What i'm imagining right now is using a couple douglas fir 4x4's strapped together and start beating away at the end with the ball peen. Hahaha
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eyetzr · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 2:23 pm Post subject:

I have a piece of 6X6 that I work on

supersuk · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 4:55 pm Post subject:

Thanks eyetzr, i'll give that a try.
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Clatter · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:16 pm Post subject:

Is the pan going on for reals this time?
Worried about collateral damage to the pan/dash and different parts due to overspray! Shocked

Can just never mask anything perfectly, no matter how hard i try.

I know it's too late, but i could cut some sections out of a fender or door or ..? and send them to you in an envelope.

Always thought it best to use OG German steel for patch pieces vs. something from some other time and place.
Just cause i need all the help i can get i guess...
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supersuk · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:45 pm Post subject:

Yup, the pan is all bolted up. Honestly, i'm not really too worried about the over spray since this will be a daily driver.

I actually might take it to a shop to have it painted because I really don't feel comfy painting this whole car at home in my carport. Too much variables to mess it up. I can paint panels, but not enough room for a complete. I already spoke to a guy who does pretty good work and he's charging me $500 + cost of clear to paint the car as long as I bring the car all prepped, the basecoat, and rollable. I will need to sand the car to 400 grit and he said he will finish it up with 600 before laying down a coat of ppg dp90 to seal it off and then the basecoat and ppg 2002 clear. We discussed the chance of overspray onto the pan, engine, etc and he said that he will mask as best as he can. He mentioned that he will lay down some 2x4 under the pan area where he can attach some paper to block the paint from going under the car. Hopefully it works....

Thanks for the offer, but I already patched everything except one area. I just need to make the complex curve of the bottom inner portion of the front passenger fender, which I will try to do tonight. That part is rusted really bad. I was looking through my stash for OEM metal, but it looks like I threw it all away! DOH.
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supersuk · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:12 am Post subject:

Rust repair continued on the front fender. This time I worked on the passenger side. The passenger side had the worst of the two which required me to replace the lower 4" or so of the inner support. The outer skin only had minor corrosion. I tried using a ball peen hammer and a stump of wood to make the curved bowl section of the inner fender, but that was no bueno. It was near impossible for me to get the correct shape that I wanted. Therefore, I just resorted to the snip and weld method. Its very hard to grind down the welds on the inner curve, but I did the best I could. After I was done welding in all the patch pieces, I just put on some metal2metal to protect it from corrosion between the weld joints. I'll grab pics of that part tonight.

I bolted the fender up to the body and it fits really well, so the repair was a success. Now to do all the hammer and dolly work, then filler work, then re-epoxy to seal the filler and superbuild after that for final blocking. One step closer to being ready for paint. Just the passenger door and roof left. Yay...

Here is the rust cut out from the inner and outer skins.

The first of the 2 inner patch pieces. I forgot to grab a pic of the outer skin patch piece, but it was just a simple curved rectangle piece. Easy to make and weld.

Outerskin patch piece tacked in.

Outerskin welded in and welds ground down.

Inner skin welded in and welds ground down the best I could without making the patch piece too thin. Its really hard to get to those damn curved parts.

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supersuk · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:25 am Post subject:

I also forgot to mention what I found out from another forum - when wiping down freshly media blasted parts to get ready for paint, you will always get lint or cloth fibers stuck in the rough profile of the metal. To get rid of this, use a clean red scotchbrite pad to rub down the metal after you used all the appropriate cleaners. This will ball up all the fibers which can be blown away using air. I tried it and it worked awesome! So remember these steps:

1. Wipe down part with wax and grease remover
2. Wipe down with waterbourne cleaner
3. Use red scotchbrite to lightly scuff the part to remove stuck lint
4. Blow away all lint balls
5. Primer away, hopefully epoxy to protect from rust <- my opinion and what I do
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