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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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 Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Can anyone provide me with some dimensions for the channel on the edge of the pan where the bolts go? What I specifically need is the width and depth for an OG pan. I'm designing some brackets that could be mounted inside the channel to run some fuel or air lines. I know running these lines through the tunnel is difficult so why not do it this way.
Could someone also post pics of the jacking point? I left mines out when I redid my pans. I wasn't ever gonna jack it from there anyways...
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7544
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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So, you need how wide/deep the channel is that the seal runs in, or dimensions of the pan for how much tubing to order, or??
I can snap a pic of the 'under the seal area' with measurements, or..?
Your car is off at the painter already?
Let me know exactly what you want.
Are you going to put some Jack points on it now, or..?
Confused 
My hero body/paint guy said never use any wax/grease remover on freshly blasted metal.
Within two hours after blasting,
Scuff it with 240 or 320,
Blow it clean/dry,
Shoot epoxy...
This guys a _King_ so I do what he says.
He tells stories of fish-eyes, flash rust, and lint...
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Bus Motor Build
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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I need measurements under the seal area. I have the gerson pans so I measured about 1.625" across and about 1" deep. Dunno how different that will be from the OG pans.
I won't be adding the jacking point, but just want to know if the jacking point blocks the channel and blocks tubes from being run along the channel. Since my pan doesn't have the jack points, its all free and clear for me to run anything inside the channels.
I wish the car is at the painters. All I have left to do is fix one door, work on the roof, and final blocking of the car.
Interesting...that is total opposite from what I was told to do! Hahaha, I guess it depends on who you're talking to. So far, I haven't gotten any problems with fisheyes, lifting, etc. with the process I was using. Remember, my front dash and all other pieces that were painted with epoxy, base, and clear has been painted this way. So far, its been about 4 months? No problems as of yet and i've color sanded and buffed. I can see the possible problems with the flash rust and lint, but i'm assuming that is really when people just do the regular type of blasting. I had someone do some wet blasting on my front fenders only using this system:
http://www.ecoquip.com/equipment/eq-400t/
There's some kind of rust inhibitor in the solution that is sprayed. I only did this because of the damn undercoating. No flash rust and problems with adhesion for the epoxy at all. Its stuck on there pretty well. I had to use the grease and wax remover since my blaster was touching everything with his bare hands. I didn't want any oils from the hand on the metal.
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:40 am Post subject: |
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If your front dash etc paint came out good, then no reason you couldn't paint the rest of it in your carport. 
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22423
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:11 am Post subject: |
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| supersuk wrote: |
I won't be adding the jacking point, but just want to know if the jacking point blocks the channel and blocks tubes from being run along the channel. Since my pan doesn't have the jack points, its all free and clear for me to run anything inside the channels. |
The jack mount actually does go over the pan bolt gap, and gets welded on the outer lip, along with on the pan itself. I think it even gets 2 short legs that sit in the channel as well. If you've got a small hydraulic floor jack for your car, I wouldn't add the jack points.
Keep in mind that IF you're going to run some plumbing in that channel, that you're going to want to make some cap plates for the 2 ends (front at a minimum), in case of a tire seperating it's tread, or kicking large stones up in those areas. Just something to think about/keep in mind. 
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:58 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
The jack mount actually does go over the pan bolt gap, and gets welded on the outer lip, along with on the pan itself. I think it even gets 2 short legs that sit in the channel as well. If you've got a small hydraulic floor jack for your car, I wouldn't add the jack points. |
So it does go into the channel...Shucks. I guess these brackets will only work for people who have installed gerson pans without the jacking points. All I remember about those jacking points is how they bend and generally suck as a jacking point. I just use the torsion housing for the rear and the front beam for the front.
| Bobnotch wrote: |
Keep in mind that IF you're going to run some plumbing in that channel, that you're going to want to make some cap plates for the 2 ends (front at a minimum), in case of a tire seperating it's tread, or kicking large stones up in those areas. Just something to think about/keep in mind. |
Thats a good idea! I didn't think of that one. I'm trying to decide if I should use the polyethylene tube or the aluminum tube. I'm leaning towards the polyethylene tube since they are more resistant to bigger impacts.
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:00 am Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
| If your front dash etc paint came out good, then no reason you couldn't paint the rest of it in your carport. |
Much easier to paint the interior than the exterior without getting dust and debris. If I had an enclosed garage, then no problem!
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22423
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:28 am Post subject: |
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| supersuk wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
The jack mount actually does go over the pan bolt gap, and gets welded on the outer lip, along with on the pan itself. I think it even gets 2 short legs that sit in the channel as well. If you've got a small hydraulic floor jack for your car, I wouldn't add the jack points. |
So it does go into the channel...Shucks. I guess these brackets will only work for people who have installed gerson pans without the jacking points. All I remember about those jacking points is how they bend and generally suck as a jacking point. I just use the torsion housing for the rear and the front beam for the front. |
Well, I'm pretty sure the original jack mounts had the legs on them. I can't say that about the replacement jack mounts.
But, if you look at some of the cars with OE pans still under them, they all seem to have bent up floors. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:26 am Post subject: |
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But, if you look at some of the cars with OE pans still under them, they all seem to have bent up floors. Shocked |
I agree with that. Mine were a little bent up along with crushed jack stand mounts. When I bought the gerson pans, I already knew that I wasn't gonna put those back on.
Well last night before the heavy rains rolled in, I was able to do some painting on the front fenders. I didn't take any pics of the process since I was working with a short amount of time. For the seam sealer, I used the 3m brushable one, since it was recommended by my jobber. They said that it was very easy to brush onto all the hard to reach areas and had a more solid rubbery feel. All in all, after putting this seam sealer on, it worked well for the headlight bucket and inner fender. It was much easier to use than the lord seam sealers in the caulking tube. But...I feel that the lord seam sealers have a smoother look to them and provides a better finish. I guess it depends on where you put the seam sealer and what you will painting it with. If undercoating => 3m Seam Sealer. If BC/CC => Lord Seam Sealer. So here is a list of what I did before painting the undercoating:
1. sand down metal2metal where all the welds were
2. liberally put on seam sealer at all joints
3. one more coat of the epoxy primer
4. wait one hours - dinner time!
5. spray on the raptor liner.
Here are pics of the finished product:
Passenger Fender
Driver Fender
Now to work on the outer part of the fender after all the rain subsides. I was able to finish most of the filler work on the drivers fender.
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Anyone know where to find the little adjustable rubber snubbers that go on the trunk lid? Its the ones that you can adjust by turning it to adjust the closed height of the trunk lid. Mine are the original ones and all mangled...
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7544
Location: Santa Cruz
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Basically finished up the wiring on the entire car. Didn't really get to test any of the lights cause I have them stored away. But i'm pretty confident that everything works. I did however get to test the air ride system and it works great. I have a leak I have to attend to, but that will be fixed when I finish routing the air lines. I designed some brackets that will be mounted in the drivers side channel on the pan. Since I don't have the jack points, I can route it there.
If anyone is interested, I can have more made and sell them. The more interest, the cheaper it will be. These brackets are CNC cut from 1/8 Alum and bent into shape. I'll post pics once I get them from my shop.
Anyways, I also got a chance to finish up my gauges. I basically took it apart, cleaned it up, greased it all up, and painted whatever needed to be painted. For the painted trim rings, I used some SEM bumper paint. It was a decent match, but not exact. I took the originals in to be color matched, but my paint supplier doesn't keep matte colors in stock. Look at the pics and tell me if they look close enough...
In the background you can also see the new fender fasteners that I bought from the UK. Its exactly the same as what VW used. Now I just need to find the rubber washers. I can't find a cheap source for those...Any recommendations?
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7544
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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They look close enough.
As long as they are the same as each other, that's all that matters.
Only a total Nut Bar would know if they were wrong, and snivel about it, right?
Looking good!
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MonT3
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Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22423
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:24 am Post subject: |
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| Clatter wrote: |
They look close enough.
As long as they are the same as each other, that's all that matters.
Only a total Nut Bar would know if they were wrong, and snivel about it, right?
Looking good!
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I agree 100%.
Have you tried McMaster Carr for the rubber washers? I think someone here reported that they might have them (it was a while ago, and I've slept since then ).
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, I guess thats true. I wanted to get as close to OEM color as I could without spending too much money. The paint was only $12 so I guess its good enough.
Bob - I found some neoprene washers at McMaster Carr that are 5/8" OD x 1/4" ID x 0.093" thick. I know its not as thick as the OEM ones, but they should do...hopefully.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=t4whin
Under the cushioning/damping washers and 1/4" screw size.
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ataraxia
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Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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I bought these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-1500-1600-Typ-3-Notch-V...1307162541
They're a fiber washer-sort of like a mini version of the original steering coupler disc. The only real downside is that they're expensive ($25+ shipping from Germany).
Post up your thoughts about the McMasterCarr washers once you've received and installed them...I'm curious and will need to buy another set. |
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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I got the rubber washers in today and they're a little small. However, I think once I tighten it up, it'll be close to or the same size as the metal washer.
Well, preparing for two hurricanes now so no work on the car for the next week or so. I don't think these hurricanes will be bad, just worried about the rain that it'll bring....Fun.
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