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W1K1
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Joined: March 04, 2004
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Location: Southern AB
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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 Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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Because the screws I purchased came with the washers on them and it is not removable. So far, I only spend about $30 on everything I have and I do have extra so I feel that I didn't over pay. I think ISP west sells a kit for $65...
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68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323 |
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:07 am Post subject: |
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My new vintage speed exhaust came in and it sure is a beauty. It should match very well with my 1904. I ended up purchasing the 125hp version since i'm pretty sure that my motor doesn't put out more than that. The primaries measured out to be 1.5" OD.
The only issue I see is the hard to reach bolts/nuts on the top flanges. The lower flanges have provisions for a stud.
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68 Fastback Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5396323#5396323 |
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Brent
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Joined: April 28, 2010
Posts: 1614
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:48 am Post subject: |
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Ok, just completed installing the vintage speed exhaust and I'm having a little trouble with fitment. The exhaust tip is about 1/8" away from the apron before I tighten up the bolts and flanges on the muffler portion. I don't think the fitment issue is because of the exhaust. I'm using the red urethane bell housing mounts and an oem nose cone mount. Before I mounted the body to the chassis, I was playing with the nose cone mount and I noticed that it could be mounted two ways. The current way has the nose cone in the lowest position, but If I flipped the nose cone mount 180 degrees it would raise the tranny, but push the motor lower. Is there a correct way to install the tranny mount? I'm thinking that I installed that wrong. I wanna make sure I installed the nose cone mount correctly before I proceed with the mod below.
Another solution that I've read was to oval out the mounting holes for the bell housing cradle mount so that I can lower it about 1/2" or so.
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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W1K1
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Joined: March 04, 2004
Posts: 4921
Location: Southern AB
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| Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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Mine has good clearance, but mine is down 1/2" in the rear because I slotted the transmission hanger holes for carb clearance.
I was thinking it would be cutting it close for someone with a stock set up when i mounted mine.
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1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap |
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supersuk
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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W1K1
Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004
Posts: 4921
Location: Southern AB
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| Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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That's funny we discussed this a couple years ago (Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:14 pm)  in my 1904cc engine build thread
I ovaled up 3/8" on the hole but didn't go all the way down when I tightened it up, so 1/4" would probably work. I was doing mine with a die grinder and carbide bit laying under the car.
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1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap |
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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supersuk
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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Since i'm using the small monroe air shocks in the front in a 150psi system, I am planning to weld in some shock relocation tabs to my lower control arm to give more leverage for the air shocks. If I am able to extend the shock out about 1.5-2", then I should also be able to use a larger air shock than the small monroes. Has anyone done something like this for the type 3?
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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Been a long time since an update, but finally got some time to work on the fasty. I decided to go single throttle body and turbo, so I removed the dual throttle body system and made a new one. Most have prolly seen the post regarding using the OEM VW intake manifold and throttle body as a base and modifying them to suit my needs.
First on the list was to cut off a small section of the throttle body to remove the small throttle plate.
Next I made a new throttle body mounting plate for the 50mm throttle body I purchased. I port matched the throttle plate to the hole left after cutting the OEM VW throttle body housing.
Next was to make the make the injector fuel rails and mounting brackets. This was outlined in a separate post.
Once everything was welded up, I sandblasted both intake manifolds and the throttle body housing. The cleaned and blasted steel portions were sprayed using KBS galvanized steel color. Here is the finished system.
Next thing on the list is to mount the new ignition system, install microsquirt ecu and build a new wiring harness.
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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vlad01
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Joined: October 27, 2010
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Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 11:39 pm Post subject: |
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| supersuk wrote: |
Been a long time since an update, but finally got some time to work on the fasty. I decided to go single throttle body and turbo, so I removed the dual throttle body system and made a new one. Most have prolly seen the post regarding using the OEM VW intake manifold and throttle body as a base and modifying them to suit my needs.
First on the list was to cut off a small section of the throttle body to remove the small throttle plate.
Next I made a new throttle body mounting plate for the 50mm throttle body I purchased. I port matched the throttle plate to the hole left after cutting the OEM VW throttle body housing.
Next was to make the make the injector fuel rails and mounting brackets. This was outlined in a separate post.
Once everything was welded up, I sandblasted both intake manifolds and the throttle body housing. The cleaned and blasted steel portions were sprayed using KBS galvanized steel color. Here is the finished system.
Next thing on the list is to mount the new ignition system, install microsquirt ecu and build a new wiring harness. |
I know those IAC and TPS! they are like family to me haha. I got piles of them.
Would of been a great opportunity to increase the plenum volume while at it, suppose the turbo will compensate for it anyway by forcing it lol.
rule of thumb is 1.5 X the displacement at min. but in an SAE paper I read test shown on small displacement engines that plenum at 4.8 times and greater showed significant improvements to power and torque at the cost of 30-60ms response lag.
But thats for NA and size restrictions would make these volumes impossible on most cars.
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71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 11:03 am Post subject: |
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I'm not worried about intake plenum volume. I know I can make more if I was n/a, but since I'm going to go turbo all that goes out of the window. The intake runner size is a little small, but I didn't want to go though the trouble of making larger runners because, again, I'm going turbo. The velocity of the air should help me make more torque while sacrificing the high end, which I really won't need often. I don't plan on driving like a maniac on the street. We'll see how this will run within the next several months.
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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Intake and fuel system installed. The throttle body does fit under the hood even with that IAC valve. The fuel regulator will be moved to a different location in order to make room for the aluminum piping from the turbo. Still have to make new fuel lines inside the engine bay though. I'm also waiting for the ignition parts, so that will be next on the list. Once that is finished, I can install the ECU and run the wiring. Hopefully have a running N/A motor in about a month or so.
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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Some small progress on the new EFI system. Moved the fuel pressure regulator further back under the passenger side intake manifold. I also finished installing the LS2 coils. Using a combination of 1/8" x 3/4" steel bar and 3/8" brake line, I made some brackets for a pair of LS2 coils on each side. Anyways, here are some pics.
Next on the list is the wiring harness and spark plug wires. Hope to be done with that today.
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supersuk
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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Wow...its been quite a while since i've updated this build thread. Not much has been done since i've been really busy at work and life in general. I'm in the process of purchasing a new place that actually has a real covered 2 car garage! How exciting!!!
Anyways, during my hiatus i've been able to work on the new fuel injection system and the fuel system. Everything is pretty much completed and i'm ready to start the engine using the new system. However, i'm having trouble installing the connector piece between the fuel tank and the fuel filler neck. The one that was in my car was torn so I threw that away and purchased a new piece from ISP a while ago and put it away in storage. Big mistake on my part for throwing the old one away! Well, the problem is that i received a piece that was labeled "69 and up" and mine is a 68. Are the connecting pieces different lengths? The "69 and up" piece seems too short as shown in the picture below. I remember the connector piece being a lot longer, but I could be mistaken.
I thought the connector piece went through the rubber piece and ended at the other side of the quarter panel.
There is the perfect amount of space for the connector piece to go through the rubber piece in the quarter and hook up to filler neck. Am I missing a piece for this portion of the fuel system?
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68vwfasty
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Joined: March 26, 2014
Posts: 277
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:25 am Post subject: |
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Unfortunately 68 is a one year only part.
311 201 135 C, for fuel filler neck from Ch. No. 318000 001 to 318210 004.
It is longer than the one you have and has an oval end where it connects to the fuel tank. It also goes through the seal and clamps on the other side (in the wheel well).
You have a 311 201 219 which is from Ch. No. 318210005. |
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supersuk
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