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tranny shift rod coupling
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68busnow
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:08 am    Post subject: tranny shift rod coupling Reply with quote

I am installing the wolfberg west shift rod coupling.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=311711211

Can someone direct me to the proper order of how to install? I do have my Bentley manual with me and need something on line.

Thx
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attached the cage to your transmissions hockey stick. Then place the plastic square pieces into the cage sides. Slide the metal bushing through both the plastic end pieces and the aft end of the shift rod. Hold it all together with the long bolt. You might want to check the metal bushing first to make sure it will slide through the aft end of the shift rod. I had one once that was too big and had to be modified to slide through.
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Fillmore77
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does this help ?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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MJulien
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assemble it onto the shaft first, then guide it onto the trans shaft. The set screw will align it as you tighten it down into the seat angle on the shaft.
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68busnow
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:31 am    Post subject: Tranny shift coupling Reply with quote

Thx, That does it
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's been in there a long time break the lag screw (#30) loose first but don't remove it, then remove the grub screw (#17) and put the shifter in 2nd or 4th and move it side to side (fairly hard) as you pull back on the shifter (you'll feel it when the coupler comes off the trans shaft), then remove #30 completely.
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68busnow
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:57 pm    Post subject: shift coupling Reply with quote

Once installed...how tight should the setup be?
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:58 pm    Post subject: Re: shift coupling Reply with quote

68busnow wrote:
Once installed...how tight should the setup be?


If you mean how tight is the shifting that's hard to say because the coupler is just one piece of the system. You have other shift bushings that could be bad as well. Generally a new coupler will make the shifting a lot better. Be sure to check the forward bushing under the gear shifter.
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68busnow
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:38 am    Post subject: shift coupling Reply with quote

No, actually I wanted to know how tight should things be with the instllation of the coupling itself?

Should the screw be so tight that the coupling doesn't move by hand or should the coupling be able to swivel around the shift rod?
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect timing on this thread. Hope to do mine next week. Thanks for asking.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 8:15 am    Post subject: Re: shift coupling Reply with quote

68busnow wrote:
No, actually I wanted to know how tight should things be with the instllation of the coupling itself?

Should the screw be so tight that the coupling doesn't move by hand or should the coupling be able to swivel around the shift rod?


Once tight the coupling should only flex, not move around.
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blacter
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this can be done without dropping the transmission? How about replacing the plastic bushings? My shifter is pretty sloppy.
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ewdb92
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

blacter wrote:
So this can be done without dropping the transmission? How about replacing the plastic bushings? My shifter is pretty sloppy.


You can replace the shift coupling (cage) and it's associated sq bushings, the front linkage bushings, shifter, and shift guides without dropping the trans. The rear shift linkage bushing can only be replaced after the trans is removed because you have to pull the linkage out of it's tube. As I understand it, the rear bushing has the least impact on tightening the shift pattern. I'm sure someone will correct me if I got that last part wrong Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
If it's been in there a long time break the lag screw (#30) loose first but don't remove it, then remove the grub screw (#17) and put the shifter in 2nd or 4th and move it side to side (fairly hard) as you pull back on the shifter (you'll feel it when the coupler comes off the trans shaft), then remove #30 completely.


Finally ordered the part, but ordered the one from Wolfsburg instead of the super heavy duty gorilla one from CIP1. The original cage looks to be in OK shape and I thought maybe the bushings could just be changed out instead of the entire cage.

Starting messing with it last night and the lag bolt just spins. Stuck a pair of needlenose visegrips on the other end to hold it, but lag bolt still appears to be just spinning. What is actually on the opposite side of the lag bolt head originally? Just trying to get it in my head what my options are before having to cut the lag bolt. Not much room.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The opposite end of the lag bolt head is the end of the split sleeve that goes through the coupler, the lag bolt screws into it and expands it into the shift rod and coupler tightly. If both ends are spinning it's not loose yet, if the bolt only is turning but not coming out the threads may just be super rusty and stripped.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
The opposite end of the lag bolt head is the end of the split sleeve that goes through the coupler, the lag bolt screws into it and expands it into the shift rod and coupler tightly. If both ends are spinning it's not loose yet, if the bolt only is turning but not coming out the threads may just be super rusty and stripped.


Thanks. I'll hit it up again tonight. Think I might jack it up a little to gain a little extra elbow room. Wink
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, THAT was too easy.

After cutting the front yard in the 100 plus heat, I decided I would take another crack at the shift coupler. After cleaning all the grease and grime off at my earlier attempt, I still wasn't able to get the lag screw out...until this special day for some reason.

I clamped a set of needlenose visegrips on the opposite side and started removing the lag screw...and for some reason it worked today. After removing it and what was left of the bushings (which wasn't very much, one side had only the sleeve left of it), I finished cleaning the cage up and it appeared to be in good shape. I test fitted the new bushings and they fit just perfect. So, I didn't see a need to remove the original cage and replace with the new one I ordered. Lag screw and sleeve seem to be OK. So, I went on and installed only the new bushings, tightened her down. Hope to take her for a spin tonight to feel the improvement in shifting. I'll save the new cage for the repair box in case of emergency. Wink
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'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
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highlandmurf
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just figured I'd throw my 2¢ in here.
I bought the Wolfsburg West one last year. I was unable to get the original out, but the cage and collar looked ok. I removed the old rubber from either side of the cage, and replaced them with the new ones and bolted it back up. The old rubber looked pretty good too.

My shifting problems persisted. What I had was an out of wack shift selector bracket that was taking awhile to go completely. Long story short, I just took apart my entire shift linkage to find that the cage had paralelogramed. It looked fine from below, and the rubber went in and out easily, but it was considerably out of shape.

Another thing about the Wolfsburg West Coupler, is that the lag screw has to thread completely through the pin. The original VW pin was larger, and crimped in the center. this allows you to put the screw in about 5/8" before you have to start wrenching on it. Nice design that saves some elbow grease if your old pin is in good shape.

My 2¢
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was able to take it out for a spin tonight and what a positive difference.
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