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ShootingFish
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 3:24 pm    Post subject: OBD II Question Reply with quote

For those of you running vehicles with an OBD II engine conversion and then of course have decided to install a OBD II engine monitor... What kind of water temps (fWT) are you running while at highway speeds?

I recently ran the extension cable from the back of my van to the front and have set up my ScanGauge II and am just checking things out.

Input??
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BillM
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that I run 200-220 ECT on the highway. I don't recall
what it did while on an extended loaded trip. This is a Zetec Turbo
but that's not going to make a big difference. What temp you running at?
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ShootingFish
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other day I was running as high as 238F and my stock gauge was positioned where it normally sits. I rarely ever have the needle go above the LED unless it is heavy stop and go city traffic.
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pjinaz
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been wondering about this. I have a recently installed 2.5 Subaru engine that runs between 190-200 on the highway. The stock guage rarely even approaches the led anymore.
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ShootingFish
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those of you with the engine conversion... Have you found that your heater core shut off valve is unable to overcome the increased pressure from the conversion water pump? I had the valve changed the other day and continued to have hot water through the heater core. I then installed a Parker valve and that fixed the issue of hot air.
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1621
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just added the scangauge to my 1.8t converted Westy before my 1200 mile trip to California and back. The water temps ranged between 193-204*, never going above or below those temps, even under high rpm/boost conditions in almost 100* weather over the Siskiyou Pass, nor in San Francisco stop and go traffic did it ever go outside that range.

The stock gauge never left the LED.
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ycontractor
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 2.0 wrx turbo with a scangauge and the water temperature fluctuates from about 190 to 208. The 208 was on a 100+ degree day and I was running 2 air conditioners, front and back.

What's a bit strange is the temperature gauge goes a little past the led mark and stays there, regardless of what the scangauge is saying. Also, I haven't found any correlation between the scangauge temperature and the radiator fan going to lo/hi/off. What's up with that?

Shooting fish,
Do you have a part number for the Parker valve you installed? I think my valve is stuck as well, which is heating up the dash board.
Thanks.
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ShootingFish
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not my pic, but exactly what I did. 1/2" Parker ball valve with 5/8" barbs. Cost me about $22. I don't have the part number with me as Kirk Meeks has my van for a couple of weeks while I am out of town working (propex and powerflex!!!) but the info stamped on the body says 10-40.

Takes about 10 mins to do the whole install. 1" box end, 7/8" box end, nut driver, utility knife, 2 hose clamps, pipe tape, and Bob's Your Uncle!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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BillM
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shooting Fish
What themostat housing set up do you have on your Zetec? I don't know about the earlier set ups that used the stock housing but the later Bostig housing requires you leave either the front valve or the rear heater valve cracked open. I reinstalled my rear heater so I could leave that one open. As long as the fan isn't on no heat comes out. It took me purchasing two different brand valves to find one that would shut off completely up front. If the second didnt work a Parker type valve was going to be put in.
I wonder if shutting off the flow through your heater circuit is raising your temps.
I have noticed the same response with the dash readout being not very responsive to temp changes. It just goes to show you that if your gauge on the dash is starting to read high your engine is hot and has been for awhile.
Imagine how hot the engine would have to be to peg the gauge! No wonder those waterboxers are trash once they peg the gauge. They got hot.
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ShootingFish
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 2010 kit... And the vent air coming through is what is making it all hot (no a/c). Once I installed the Parker it took care of the heat problem, I am not just wondering about the coolant temp issue. I had planned on removing my rear heater to install a propex in that location. I guess I had better drop a note to the boys at Bostig today.
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BillM
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was getting heat out of the front box also until I got a valve that worked. I have my propex squeezed in next to the rear heater box. I wish I had take the time to install it where Frank Condelli did. I plan on making a shelf to go over it eventually. I pretty much have lost my rear under seat storage because of the zetec ecu,rear heater and propex. Let me know what the boys say. If you want pmail me your email and I can send you a PDF of the install doc where it mentions the bypass need.
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thatvwbusguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the Zetec, you are showing cylinder head temps on the Scangauge, not water temps. I see 205-210F around town and 225-230F at 70MPH on the highway in both of my Zetec powered vans. I definitely like the fact that we display head temps instead of water temps, since the cylinder head will respond to temperature changes more quickly than the coolant does because of water's high specific temperature.
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Jay Brown
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ShootingFish
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BillM wrote:
If you want pmail me your email and I can send you a PDF of the install doc where it mentions the bypass need.
Found it! SK-In Cooling Hookup.

Jay,

You are an excellent source of info... Thanks for your help with this... Knowing that it is CHT makes me feel better about it. Though I would love to be running a bit cooler none the less. It might be tune up time once I get it back from North Westy.

SF
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thatvwbusguy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get temps down a few additional degrees, add a couple bottles of Redline Water Wetter to the coolant tank. It is pretty cheap and it really does work. I saw head temp drops of 3-4 degrees after adding it to my '85 Westy.
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Jay Brown
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could replicate the perceived need for flow thru the rear heater by installing a similar Parker style valve in a hose loop between the rear heat supply Y fittings. This way you could collect some real world data to see if blocking off the coolant flow to the heater circuit really does raise overall water temps.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad I stumbled on this thread. Thanks for posting readings guys.

I thought I'd eradicated an intermittent MIL coming on and staying on (under the "right" conditions) but it's come back.

I get an ECT code. Current theory: coolant is too hot at ECT sensor under certain conditions until it gets run up to rad, and back etc. (cooling system is in good condition)

One of these days I'll get RossTech and see what the temps are at ECT under various conditions.

Neil.
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