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Need to make this fi t3 a daily
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Its Giggles
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 11:53 am    Post subject: Need to make this fi t3 a daily Reply with quote

So i got a square in december.

I replaced fuel line in the engine bay to the injectors..
new ngk spark plugs, and generic wires.
New generator.
New optima red top battery [it cost me half my paycheck haha]

And po said fuel pump was replaced one year ago... but it
has different diameter so i couldnt replace with the tiny clear
plastic filter. [caus i noticed the filter hasnt been changed since may2011] Laughing

Before all that, it was having running problems/ ignition issues.

Yes it could be a vaccume thingy going on.
and i did have a 4+ year old battery so it was having problems
running and idling [after warming up]. And it still has kinda problems
keeping an idle, so any ideas to adjust the idle a bit? is it running
rich? sometimes get smoke out the tail pipe when it sits and i live
in a sorta damp area on the coastside, so im gussing its just water
accumilation or such. and when i didnt put my foot on the gas starting
it one day, it would try to start but didnt. but when i tried again, it
just wouldnt start but cranks. and then i came back an hr later and
the square just started up with the new battery.

I need this thing to be as good to go on a roadtrip and as a daily driver
so if ther is anything i need to replace such as sensors and things like
that [i want to replace thngs before they go bad. but i dont want to break
my wallet here] Any suggestions please list. I dont want to take my baby
to the mechanics.

thanks
-giggles
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Last edited by Its Giggles on Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:10 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Dfasty
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is it running better than it was in January.
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KTPhil
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace ALL fuel lines, not just those in the engine bay. This includes the little stubbies on the injectors. Use proper FI clamps, not worm clamps.

You cannot use those clear plastic filters. They are not rated for 30psi your fuel injection runs on. You need the proper square filter up front at the pump, and also check and change the filter sock in the tank outlet.
Replace the fuel overflow/vent setup with a kit from Jim Adney.

Then check your brake lines, and replace them if you don't know their age. Flush the brake system.

Replace all air hoses in the engine bay, every single one.

Check all wire connections in the engine bay and at the FI relays, and rework any that are loose or corroded. Check your voltage out of the regulator, too.

Check the resistance of yout two temperature sensors, both windings in the MPS, and also check the MPS for air leaks.

Without these steps you will never have a reliable and safe daily driver.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:

You cannot use those clear plastic filters. They are not rated for 30psi your fuel injection runs on. You need the proper square filter up front at the pump...


Why?? It's not on the pressurized side of the pump, so it has no pressure on it. I've been using a plastic filter for over 4 years now, with no ill effects.
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KTPhil
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
KTPhil wrote:

You cannot use those clear plastic filters. They are not rated for 30psi your fuel injection runs on. You need the proper square filter up front at the pump...


Why?? It's not on the pressurized side of the pump, so it has no pressure on it. I've been using a plastic filter for over 4 years now, with no ill effects.


For one thing they don't flow as much, since they have much less surface area than the stock cube units. On a carb engine only the fuel used by the engine passes the filter. On the FI system, fuel travels through the fuel loop continuously and therefore the filter sees a LOT more flow.

But you're right that pressure isn't an issue if it's on the suction side.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are assuming that the car is still FI.

Max
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KTPhil
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
You guys are assuming that the car is still FI.

Max


From the original post:

"I replaced fuel line in the engine bay to the injectors.. "

...although one Frankenmotor posted here had the central Weber progressive with the orignal FI intakes, complete with injectors still on it!


Last edited by KTPhil on Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. I missed it. Embarassed

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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If You Fail get itawayoflife in Buena Park to fix it in your driveway!
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
KTPhil wrote:

You cannot use those clear plastic filters. They are not rated for 30psi your fuel injection runs on. You need the proper square filter up front at the pump...


Why?? It's not on the pressurized side of the pump, so it has no pressure on it. I've been using a plastic filter for over 4 years now, with no ill effects.


For one thing they don't flow as much, since they have much less surface area than the stock cube units. On a carb engine only the fuel used by the engine passes the filter. On the FI system, fuel travels through the fuel loop continuously and therefore the filter sees a LOT more flow.

But you're right that pressure isn't an issue if it's on the suction side.


I never said I was using the small plastic filter (for carbed engines) on my FI cars. I was using the larger one. Also, the "square" one was plastic too. Shocked I think the ones Russ used said Cushman on them. Wink
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Its Giggles
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was driving back home on the highway with another when i heard
a loud POP. and it was like that the whole way til i stopped in
town. First we thought it was a cylinder, but the thing can still haul
uphill. and the idle is now loping so im thinking and hoping its just
an exhaust gasket.. . . . any thoughts?
-giggles

edit:
KTPhil
Max Welton
yes yes, my squareback is FI. sorry about that one.
i should of mentioned it in the first post.
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Last edited by Its Giggles on Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:30 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Its Giggles
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
KTPhil wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
KTPhil wrote:

You cannot use those clear plastic filters. They are not rated for 30psi your fuel injection runs on. You need the proper square filter up front at the pump...


Why?? It's not on the pressurized side of the pump, so it has no pressure on it. I've been using a plastic filter for over 4 years now, with no ill effects.


For one thing they don't flow as much, since they have much less surface area than the stock cube units. On a carb engine only the fuel used by the engine passes the filter. On the FI system, fuel travels through the fuel loop continuously and therefore the filter sees a LOT more flow.

But you're right that pressure isn't an issue if it's on the suction side.


I never said I was using the small plastic filter (for carbed engines) on my FI cars. I was using the larger one. Also, the "square" one was plastic too. Shocked I think the ones Russ used said Cushman on them. Wink


The one i have on the car is square too. Napa auto parts suck.
They always gave me the wrong parts even when i was driving
the bmw around back few years ago.
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Its Giggles
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dfasty wrote:
is it running better than it was in January.


Its doing kinda better with the new battery. But still having problems.
Been so busy with work that i dont have much time nor a reliable way
of transportation to drive to get the right kinda parts for this square.
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Its Giggles
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sqare blew out a spark plug on #2 and was running on three cyls Rolling Eyes

How should i go about adjusting the idle up a bit?
it seems to drop so low that the square just stalls out.
Anywho, gonna check that one out
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Sqrbckguy38
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i'd replace the head if it were damaged from the plug going awol, and then there is an idle adjustment on the main throttle body. careful youg padawan, many dangers lie ahead, temptations for more speed.... oh wait sorry, wrong idea here. hows your timing and valve adjustments?
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its Giggles wrote:
Sqare blew out a spark plug on #2 and was running on three cyls Rolling Eyes

How should i go about adjusting the idle up a bit?
it seems to drop so low that the square just stalls out.
Anywho, gonna check that one out

To be honest, this really isn't sounding like a solid engine to make into a daily-driver.

If it was me at this point, I would try to assess the general health of the top-end. You'll never ever be able to tune-out the effects of leaky valves or worn-out heads.

The leakdown test will tell you what you need to know about the top-end (rings, head-to-cylinder seal, valves). You need a compressed air supply, but the test can be done with the engine in the car.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3716307#3716307

I don't even bother with compression testing anymore. Doesn't give enough information and is affected by things that have nothing to do with how well the engine runs.

Max
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW's are infamous for spitting out spark plugs from their aluminum heads. They make a helicoil kit for repairing VW stripped spark plug threads and it works.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
VW's are infamous for spitting out spark plugs from their aluminum heads.

Generally after a crack from one of the valve seats to the spark plug hole has developed, yes. It's an indication of heads that have already had a hard life.

Max
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
Mike Fisher wrote:
VW's are infamous for spitting out spark plugs from their aluminum heads.

Generally after a crack from one of the valve seats to the spark plug hole has developed, yes. It's an indication of heads that have already had a hard life.

Max


A lot of them get cross threaded from changing spark plugs when the engine isn't cooled down as well. You should always change plugs with the engine cold, and use anti seize.

Let's not automatically assume the head is trashed. It may be, but those threads go away often enough that I always carried the K-D sleeve kit in my tool box.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps. But why assume at all?

Having a leakdown test done (by someone smart enough to listen for the source of leakage) is just too easy to do. And it will either confirm or rule out most top-end problems.

To me, there just isn't a better next step to take in this case.

It isn't even an aircooled VW specific test. Any competent engine shop should be able to do it inexpensively.

PS: Your best bet is probably a shop that deals with motorcycles. An aircooled VW engine has much more in common with an aircooled MC engine than anything else.

Max
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