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Help me build my next T3 engine (dell tuning help)
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a lowbugget SvDA already but when we discussed changing the carbs to dells the 019 was supposed to be a better choice.

And thanks again John for the help on this build
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would argue against a 019 if the carbs have the proper vacuum ports in them, but that's me.

W1K1 wrote:
I have a lowbugget SvDA already but when we discussed changing the carbs to dells the 019 was supposed to be a better choice.

And thanks again John for the help on this build

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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2012 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was checking the vacuum signal from the 3-4 carb and it comes on right off idle and looks like it maxes out around 8 on the vacuum gauge. Is that enough to run the SVDA?

I went up to the 57 on the idles but haven't had decent weather to get out and run it. Hopefully tomorrow is nice enough to do some testing.

Turns out the LM2 had a loose wire in the plug for the inductive clamp and it broke finally. Too bad they use such a small wire on the 3829 adapter cable It's bound to fail sooner or later.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got to take the car out warm it up and do a few test runs with the 57 idles, 122 mains, 170 airs, 30 vents. The 57 makes it feel more sluggish than the 55 on the butt dyno.
after running it up and down the hills a couple times it settles into 200F oil temp, 10 psi oil pressure, idles smooth.

But the VDO CHT gauge reads 350 as soon as the engine gets up to temp, it always has read that with the new engine it goes up with a change in load.
This is also the sensor end I the ring connector on, so it's a little shorter. The gauge read the same with my old engine, you could drive all day in town and it would read 350F. I'm guessing its off, but i'm wondering if there is a way to test the accuracy of the temp readings with it mounted and wired in the car? Is there somewhere I can check with the infrared thermometer while it's running and reading 350F to confirm the reading?

I'm thinking of ordering the 52 and 55 idles and trying the SVDA next to get the cruise over to the 16's


cruise at 50mph

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

uphill climb 4th gear

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

uphill 4th gear

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobody had ideas on the VDO CHT gauges?

Went and ordered a new sensor lead and the 52 and 55's to try with the SVDA.
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to know also, what is the #1 CHT gauge to run, and what needs to be done with the harness so that it reaches the bus cab and still reads correct. I want to put one in my bus, but cant find any info on what works and whats the best.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did a couple changes over the weekend swapped in the SVDA and changed out the 122 main for 125.
now you can see when it switches from the idles to mains going from 3000rpm up to 3500. Its reading 12.5 to low 13's while on the mains consistently now.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Hopefully my new idle jets show up this week.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well my new idle jets showed up this week after a two week wait for the mail. They saved me $10 by shipping my small package 1st class air mail, but priority mail takes 6-7 days, 1st class is air mail but no specified delivery time, which turns out to be two weeks.in my case.

I ordered 52's and 55's, i pulled out the jet gauges to check them last night and these were my 52's

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

3 fit snug on the 50 pin and one (blue tape) fits on the 55. Evil or Very Mad
So for any of you that say you should just order the correct jets instead of drilling Rolling Eyes to size.
I could have just ordered 2 sets of 50's and drilled them to size and been running the right size by now.

if i would have taken the jets and installed them on faith what kind of tuning issues would I have had????


I ran the 55's today and it's definitely better than the 57's but cruise is at 15. So the 52's would be the ticket I think, but now I'm going to have to return the 52's (Wait a week for return mail) and wait for replacements to be shipped out (2 more weeks). Yes, you guessed it, I'm disappointed.

So It'll be a month before I can get the correct jets I ordered.
Unless there is another vendor for dell idle jets?
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so my LM2 was acting up, turns out it was the sensor.

Took it out for a run with the 52 idles in.

4th gear cruise, then WOT on a long steep uphill.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

you can see the change from part throttle idles to mains pretty easily on this one. as soon as you touch the throttle it changes

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

it is definitely more barky when you let off the throttle to decellerate, so I must have some sort of leak in the exhaust, unless there is another reason it's doing it.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like normal driving puts the AFR into 12.5 - 13.2 when you hit the mains. And 15.5 -17 afr cruise on my short drive to work once it warms up.
I had to turn the idle screws out some more to get the idle AFR down into the 13's.
it's definitely a little more work to keep it running when you fire it up in the morning, but once I hit the first set of lights it's idling fine.

So far so good
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i had to go back to the 57 idles, i don't get long enough to get the car warm so it will run good with the 52s in. My commute is only 10 minutes and a run across town to home depot is 15-20 minutes. If i was driving more highway miles i could run the 52 easy enough.

I took the car for a flat cruise 14 miles on the highway and back today, i had 250 head temps, and the afr was around 13.3 to 12.9 at 3500 rpm, 70 mph. The problem is the oil temps get to 235-240 F with the ambient temp being around 85F (which is pretty high for us) today. Oil pressure at speed was 35 psi.

Now i'm leaning towards putting in a setrab oil cooler. Most of my daily driving is around town and even sitting in traffic on hot days only gets me 220-225F (the temp sensor is in the pressure relief plug hole) but being a T3 i'm wondering about the oil cooling capacity on the highway. I added a fresh air
scoop under the car to feed more cool air into the engine compartment (like the cal-look mod) so the 36 dells aren't sucking hot air at highway speeds.

I checked the accuracy of my VDO head temp gauge with the shorter themocouple wires a couple weeks ago. I put an old cam on the stove and heated it up over 450F the took it to the garage and clamped the sensor to it. We were out by 100F on the gauge compared to the lazer thermometer from work. From 350 down to 250 was consistantly 100 degrees cooler than what the gauge was reading. So my 350F that my heads read all the time around town is only 250F.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello
A couple of things to remember when jetting dells on short manifolds.

1. Take a set of 40 mm velocity stacks and cut them down to about ½" height, so that you have the cone shape and a tad of the tube itself. Glue that part to the airfilter base plate. OR buy a set of TWM "roller" stacks. That will aid tremendeusly in the quality of the mix and burn, letting you jet leaner without problems.
2. I get slightly confused, maybe not taking my time, by reading your AFR tables. But it seems to me that your idle jets should be around 0,55. have you set your idle mixture screws in between of the tests ??? It looks like they have been set in the same spot (untouched) They need to be readjusted as per jet change, as they have influence relatively high up in hte idle circuit.
15,3 - 15,7ish is good on cruise in the 2600 - 3500 rpm band.
3. Your WOT is too rich. I cant really see why, as your main jetting sounds to be on the lean side.
Are you running low CR ?
What is the float height ?
AFR at WOT should be in the 12,8 - 13 area or close to.

T
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I just realized that you are at 3000 ft. That throws the jetting off a bit. I´m not the one to ask about jetting at altitude. But the rest holds Very Happy
T
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, i adjust and recheck everything after a jet change.

The CR is 8.58

I swapped back to 122 mains, they were 13.1 at wot

I had a look at the twm site but it doesn't show a stack small enough for the 36's

Floats are set on the low end, i think 6 at the top and 13 at the bottom.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That´s why I wrote that YOU should cut them down.
T
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

actually you said cut down a set from 40's, or buy a set of TWM Wink

I'll have to order some, I've only got 1 spare in my parts box.

I"ve been working on re-tuning the 45's on the wifes 2110cc the last week or so. It was set up a couple years ago and was jetted richer than needed because of a vacuum leak that only showed up when hot.

Any thoughts on my oil temps at highway speed being 240F? oil cooler ?

Anyone used the Joe Gibbs DT50 yet?
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did I Embarassed
Oh well, if it aint worse I´ll survive. - Twm have at least had some very low ones that are mainly used for F.I tb´s. But they may have been discontinued.

T
PS. I just did a search, and they dont come up anymore. But take a look at these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WEBER-40-IDF-AIR-HORN-GA...2eb174700f

The you´ll get the idea. Like i wrote earlier, I only use the upper cone part.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Dellorto UK had the 15 mm tall stacks, very nice billet aluminum.
Made a big difference in the intake sound above 3500rpm, it used to sound like a blower, or a vacuum cleaner.
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