1974 camper project (vancouver)

brockandryley · Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:39 pm Post subject: 1974 camper project (vancouver)

So have been poking around for a while and have a thread with a head question. That thread lead to the heads coming off. I was going to talk in the other thread but I thought I may as well start a new one and try to have one of the cool updated regularly project threads like so many on here.

Some background, bought the bus a year ago, took it on a couple trips ~2000 miles, finally decided to adjust the valves, found the tight stem etc etc. I am currently in the process of pulling the engine (waiting for my motorcycle jack). I took some pictures while taking some stuff off, and found a few of the old typical PO mistakes (check out that fuel filter!) But also found some stuff where I have no Idea what the hell is going on.

Will update with progress but some answers now will give me more stuff to do while the valves are getting done.

By the way, 1974 1800cc dual carbs, orig paint, not much rust! Orig from santa cruz.

The work space

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

AUX battery install from last year, not really tidied up yet. What about those tubes? Heater?

Unspoken wires. Red clip is in same wirecover as some others to coil, but it only reaches about halfway across the bay. Others? Old ass relay, maybe hot air fan? Hasn't been wired up while I've had it.

What the hell is this? Hard lines some through firewall, some from tin, all look just cut and crushed after going thgrough some manifold?

Thanks!

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50332

'74s had a air injection system that usually got disconnected pretty quickly. That may be part of what you extra plumbing is. The other part might be the balance tube for the idle circuit on you carbs. You should have power brakes, where does the vacuum line to the booster hook up?

busdaddy · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:20 am Post subject:

The tubes by the aux battery look like A/C lines, is the left rear corner hacked out of the metal surrounding the engine by any chance?
The wire is a mystery, the connector is aftermarket but it could be a VW wire, it's the color of the insulation on the wire we need to see to identify it.
The pipes are indeed air injection (bigger one) and supply to the now missing air injection pump (smaller one on central idle circuit).

I may be intersted in some of the A/C stuff if it's still under the bus.
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brockandryley · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:27 pm Post subject:

Wildthings/
Vacuum line that connects to the T right above the hatch? Nowhere.

Busdaddy/
Yes, thought it might be AC since they are rubber lines. Was under the bus quite a bit today, and saw one terminated halfway down the underside. The AC was right behind the drivers seat right? don't think there are any reminants besides those hoses. Anything special to look for?
Will look at wire tomorrow.

Took off the rear tins, started, deflectors, etc today. Found some more wackness. One heat exchanger was completely off the downtube from the flap box. Only 2 maybe 3 screws in each tin/deflector. Probably normal for a random bus, but are these typical? Like buy in home depot typical? Throttle cable mega shralped...etc. mostly little stuff. Tin sure is in good condition though, might not even have to paint it.

Took the seal out carefully, reusable? Engine out tomorrow!

busdaddy · Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:44 pm Post subject:

Look in the cabinet under the sink for the A/C evaporator, there should be a duct sticking up between the sink and window. I'd also be interested in the condensors under the bus, some have one infront of the beam and one behind, others just have a big one under the cargo floor.
You can get metric bolts/screws at Home depot, 6mm X whatever length you need, don't forget the washers. It's not uncommon for the valve and duct to come off the heat exchanger, off roading or just neglect is usually the cause.
If the seal isn't crumbling you can reuse it, there's $40 for screws, engine cleaner and paint.
The air injection pipes can be removed since the pump's already gone, you'll have to plug the holes in the heads though, 10mm valve adjust screws are perfect but any long 10mm bolt will do. Leave the central idle pipe in place though, if you plan on running the Solexes (recommended) you'll need that.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні!

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50332

The lines above the rear hatch are the vent lines for the fuel tank. From the "T" the line should run to the carbon canister.

There were multiple air conditioner set ups, some had the evaporator under the dash and some had it in the rear ceiling, all depended on whose system it was.

Keeby Swaggz · Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 2:02 pm Post subject:

I bet that wire goes to the little sender just left of the distributor... you can't see it except from above, and it's through a hole in the tin... I'm not sure what it is or why, but it's there... I just came across it on mine yesterday... as far as the other stuff, the other guys got ya covered... A/C lines and air injection pipes... your engine originally had a small air pump directly above the alternator that ran off a separate belt that shared a double pulley with the alternator... it was an emissions thing...

brockandryley · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:12 am Post subject:

Keeby/
Good guess but that sender was correctly attached. Something else... In the same shitty PO wire casing as a wire through the tin to the fuel pressure regulator?

Engine is out

Not too much trouble. Thanks ratwell, only had a few last minute disconnects, more random air lines. Took the intakes and the upper tin off. A lot of weird shit going on. Pretty excited to take all the unneeded stuff off. Bunch of scary stuff like random tiny bolts sitting in the head fins. She sure needed this.

One question: The exhaust header nuts on one side came off easy, so did two on the other side. There is only one that is super tight, if i heat it with a torch I can maybe get half a turn before I'm scared of snapping it. Going to get a fresh can of wd40 for that. But the other one.. Started super easy, go a bunch of turns, look in the socket, no nut. Shit. Feel the nut and stud and it is loose, like bad loose. It has a bit of play, as in I can move it up and down, what does this mean? Are they threaded studs? How can the stud be loose, movable, but not come out.

Anyone?

brockandryley · Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:14 pm Post subject:

Ended up getting the bolts off fine. The weird one turned out to be a helicoil that came loose. Heads are currently getting redone.

Been reading a lot about jugs and rings. I have taken one (jug) off but didnt get a chance to hit it with the micrometer. Will check the pistons and jugs tomorrow. What are generally acceptable differences to reuse pistons and jugs? From reading some posts on here, I hope to just ball hone the cylinders and re ring the pistons.

Lost of degreaseing to do.. More pics soon!

busdaddy · Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:21 pm Post subject:

If you don't own a Bentley manual and a Tom Wilson book you should, they list the wear limits and ways to judge if a part is reuseable. If you don't own a quality inside and outside mic that is in the range of the P&C's you can measure piston clearance with feeler gauges and cylinder wear with a new ring (measure the end gap) in a pinch.

BTW if you're tearing things apart don't mix up the lifters or you'll be buying a new set even if yours are still good.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

brockandryley · Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 7:17 pm Post subject:

Yesss. Been careful about not mixing things up.

Bently and Wilson book are waiting for me at home in Vancouver, I have been out on the sunshine coast for a stint and the van is here.

I have a decent digital micrometer that is within range, I just wasn't able to stay at the "shop" long enough today, will check tomorrow.

I could start a book of funny PO hacks the amount of shit I'm finding. Scary.

brockandryley · Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject:

Did a little bit today. Cleaned some tinware and the starter. Turned on the hot water tank at the shop to have some hot water tomorrow.

Before and after:

Took out one piston and cylinder and one lifter, waiting on my tom wilson for specs to look out for but for my unschooled mind the lifters looked good? no mushrooming or anything..?

Shitty pic.

Going to take off the fan housing tomorrow, inlets and outlets are just CAKED in grease. No heater flaps either. Will check therm too.

The further you go the easier it gets to go further!

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50332

The lifter doesn't look that old. It doesn't look concave and you can still see the bevel around the face.

brockandryley · Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject:

Stripped down to the block. Cleaned out the hideously dirty fan housing. Missing all 4 flaps plus thermostat... Try and source some out in vancouver or else order from awesome powder coat I guess.

Going to clean the P&Cs and check if I can still use them..
_________________
1974 Camper with a ????cc type4.

brockandryley · Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 9:10 pm Post subject:

Shit one more thing. I know that a naive 23 year old over tightened the dreaded oil strainer bolt. With the strainer off, the assembly inside the case has maybe a 16th of play in all directions. Busted?
_________________
1974 Camper with a ????cc type4.

brockandryley · Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:50 pm Post subject:

So reading around this forum looks like a loose strainer bolt probably means the case is busted, but sometimes it isn't the end of the world.

I currently have the engine down to the pistons and oil cooler and case, everything else is off. It seems like a whole other can of beans to split it, but it maybe sounds like a good idea.

My camshaft looks okay through the lifter holes, no apparent wear pattern, so I don't feel the need to split to check that, don't know about the crank. There doesn't appear to be any excessive end play or anything.

Obviously to split and get the case welded would require cleaning everything etc.

Would it be stupid to split just to get it welded and not go about checking all bores get re-machining etc?

P.s. the god damned piston retainer rings. Is the special tool that much better that needlenoses? I am having a hell of a time with them.

Painted all tin today, fan shroud spotless. Getting there!
_________________
1974 Camper with a ????cc type4.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50332

Buy yourself a set of snapring pliers. I am sure these are not the best quality, but you get a nice assortment for the price.

http://tinyurl.com/3quc9dt

I don't like the kind with all the different interchangeable tips. Too many things to loose and the tips tend to come loose on you as well.

fleetlinebay · Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:15 pm Post subject:

Snap ring pliers are cheap, the retaining clips will come out easy if you use then. I got mine from Napa i think they were 15 bucks.

fleetlinebay · Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:20 pm Post subject:

I know people that have had there cases welded. It works well and is a inexpensive way to repair the oil stainer screw issue.

jeffsbugs · Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 9:09 am Post subject:


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