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How to restore these rotten buffer supports on the RGBs
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Wolfgang1
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 2:55 pm    Post subject: How to restore these rotten buffer supports on the RGBs Reply with quote

Hi,

you all know them, rotten buffer supports on late RGBs... Crying or Very sad
What now? Leave them away? For me no alternative

As i know there`s no source i started to refresh them my way:

Here`s my step by step tutorial Idea

Where we start: Confused

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First we have to remove the support from the axle tube. I thought the fastest way is to cut twice with a dremel like a V to avoid the original spot weldings:

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Be careful not to hurt the tube! Wink

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Now pull out the upper part of the support out of the rubber. It`s essential that the upper ring is salvable....

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Now you have to find a tube with the correct diameter. Believe it or not, i used an old 36hp exhaust preheater tube, fits perfect Very Happy

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Now i know again why i keep every vw scrap..... Wink

The upper "nipple" fits perfect over the tube:

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Take your mig and here we go:

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Now "clip it in" the rubber and drill a hole with the pre heater tube diameter in the support.

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Put the tube with the rubber through the hole in the support you drilled earlier :

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Fix it in the correct position with 2 spots, then remove the rubber and check angles etc. With only two spots you can correct it easily.

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Now it`s time to weld:

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Ready to reweld on the tube:

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It`s essential to flaten the welding on the backside, otherwise it could collide with the cast iron of the RGB.

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Now protect it from rusting again, i would recommend to add a little water drain hole.

Thanks for reading, i hope you enjoined it.
Wolfgang
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GLHTurbo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

welding a lugnut in there works great too.
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In another locked thread on this, DaWerks wrote:

dawerks wrote:
New bilstein shocks. They are awesome.

Also, you don't need the full size rubber bump stop either. You can get Delrin cut to size (I would go slightly over size and just slip it over the old holder, but half the height).


OK...how do the Bilsteins eliminate the need for the bump stops? Also, where can I find the delrin, and please explain how it's going to slip over the old holder and still maintain its height. Won't it be hollow (cylindrical) throughout its entire height? Sorry...a little confused.
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Clara
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the original poster of this thread showed a nice way to fix this problem. But if you don't feel up to dissembling and welding and reassembling, don't worry. The bus will be okay without the bump stops.

The bump stops were not used until part way through the 65 model year.
Meaning while they were added for a reason, you can drive with out them, and many buses never had them.

I am guessing that Dawerks meant if you have decent shocks, you don't actually use the bump stops much, unless you are on some really bumpy roads.
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
I think the original poster of this thread showed a nice way to fix this problem. But if you don't feel up to dissembling and welding and reassembling, don't worry. The bus will be okay without the bump stops.

The bump stops were not used until part way through the 65 model year.
Meaning while they were added for a reason, you can drive with out them, and many buses never had them.

I am guessing that Dawerks meant if you have decent shocks, you don't actually use the bump stops much, unless you are on some really bumpy roads.


Thanks...great information there.
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dawerks
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plus you don't have to use the factory rubber mounts. The new Billstiens (sp) and some home made mounts are more than good enough.

Bump stops are only good when I ollie/jump curbs.

You can also re-index your rear spring plates so you have more clearance. The spring plates/torsions sag over time so maybe that's your issue?
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baja1641
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bilstein shocks have built in bump stops.

Mike
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

baja1641 wrote:
Bilstein shocks have built in bump stops.

Mike



Thanks for the info.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is this "bump stop" on the Biltsteins? I have a brand new set of the blue and yellow ones and they compress all the way just like KYB or any regular old one. Anyone have a picture?
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baja1641
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know exactly, I guess they are inside the shocks. I was told this by a Bilstein dealer back in 1995. I bought a set for my baja bug and cut / removed all the bump stops on the car. I then proceeded to jump the car and generally beat on it. The shocks are still the same as they were when I bought them. That's money well spent!

Mike
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sventinker
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job its nice to see people fix stuff with ingenuity.
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:42 pm    Post subject: Re: How to restore these rotten buffer supports on the RGBs Reply with quote

Wolfgang1 wrote:


Now pull out the upper part of the support out of the rubber. It`s essential that the upper ring is salvable....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Wolfgang


OK...getting ready to do this (even though I realize it's not really necessary). What if you DON'T have the upper part of the support? Has anybody gotten past that problem?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then you find someone who has taken them off and does not need them. Hmm, where did we put those... Confused

Try a "WTB" ad in the classifieds.
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Mile High Puma
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bay window lug nut. There is a post on this way to do it.
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mile High Puma wrote:
Bay window lug nut. There is a post on this way to do it.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Where's the thread? Looks like doing it that way doesn't even require removing the bracket from the axle.
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Mile High Puma
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is the link,
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6952886&highlight=#6952886
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. So it was an Audi lug nut, not a Bay.Guess either might work? Two questions...looks like you ground down the flats on the lug...correct? Also, why did you remove the "flower"...the cup that supports the bump stop? Or was it already pretty much gone?
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Mile High Puma
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took it off so I could clean it up better and get in there with my MIG easier to weld on the lug nut, was off a bay by the way, at the time I thought Audi but that was a lug bolt. If you notice I also drilled a drain hole in the center to give moisture a way out.
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kenshapiro2002
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great help. Thanks.
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Bruce Amacker
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Page 18 in the link below shows how I did it using a flange head bolt, there's many that will work. The reason you need to remove it from the axle is to sandblast it thoroughly and weld from the backside if needed. I wouldn't try to do it on the axle.

http://leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2888&start=170

Good Luck!
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